Feiyu Tech 3 axis Wearable Gimbal here, it works so well I will not film without it. They now have a v2 which is waterproof.

I have a test video here:

Please forgive the terrible riding, it was only a test video!

Does the system give a sharp image on an HD tv or is it all pixelly on a big screen? Have read about some settings where you can smooth the pixelation but no idea what that’s like.

It’s both, it is a sharp pixelly image. I think you can add scanlines for the CRT effect. Have a look on YT for examples.

If you are fine with installing an OS and have a couple of hours spare to configure a few things go with a Pi3 and download RetroPie which is free. Graphics are the same as SNES mini, but with RetroPie there is a lot more stuff you can configure. It runs well out of the box, but you can add scanlines, CRT effects and other things which makes it look like it did 25 years ago.

I’ve had a quick look at hakchi2 for the SNES Mini, which allows you to install RetroArch which means you can add the emulators for NES, Atari, etc… The cheaper option would be to use RetroPie which uses RetroArch, a Pi3, and buy the usb controllers, or use PS3/PS4 DS controller. imo this option is a lot more versatile.

.if you suddenly found yourself in a position to indulge in silly fast / lairy cars, but up until now have no fast road or track experience, how would you a) avoid killing anyone and b) get the most out of it?

Well if its on public roads, staying within the speed limits or close to and being an observant driver should help keeping everyone else alive. IMO roads are too busy and cars are too fast to be able to drive them at the limit on public roads these days.

If you want to get the most out of it do a couple of track days. I also think skid pan is worth it if you have no idea on understeer/oversteer, cadence braking, etc.

Now you may shoot me for saying this, but I think racing sims like GT also help with learning racing lines, braking, car balance, etc. But they are also not a substitute for actual track days, you learn so much about your car on a track day: It’s characteristics and how much tyres, brakes, fluids cost.

Shaggy
Magoo

Tom, that is pretty much how I’m trying justifying it. Track car is currently off the road and VR sim racing could be a nice stop gap to fill the void.

I’m totally sold on VR. I’ve been playing GTS/Dirt VR with the PSVR in a sim rig, along with some tactile transducers. It is really immersive. So much easier to place the car and can feel the balance a lot easier.

I’ve had a fair few friends try it, I really should film their reactions when they remove the headset, eyes wide open and gobsmacked! A couple of people have fallen over playing Farpoint as they have tried to rest their arm on a rock and have fallen over!

My favourite games on PSVR: Driving/Flying/FPS

I now want VR for the PC sim racing, but that’s crazy expensive when you look at new GFX card, Headset, Controllers, etc.

You need a High Speed cable for 4K. That’s it. HDMI 2.0a and 2.0b are down to the equipment to support the additional features, the cable doesn’t change.

Not entirely correct. 4k @ 60fps you need a high speed cable that supports v2 and 2a/b for 4K HDR. I’d assume the TV you bought does HDR, its good to keep this in mind when you add equipment in the future that does 4k @ 60fps in HDR. I had a few problems getting getting 4k HDR @ 60fps, it was because it was a High Speed Cable supporting 1.4 and not 2. I thought the same as you, until I had this problem.

I tried the rain x, but it caused wiper chatter. Was fine on Mrs OTS’s though

You need to clean the wiper and apply a little to the wiper blade.

Rain X is pretty good, but AngelWax H2GO is a lot better and lasts a lot longer.

The Teenager probably thought you were soo old you don’t know anything about technology. So probably thought he’ll tell you that you need a 4k HDMI lead, rather than trying to explain that you need a HDMI cable v2.0b and the differences between the versions. :wink:

No such thing as a 4k HDMI lead, but there are leads that don’t support 4k, so it almost stands to reason to call it a 4k HDMI lead.

Of course it could just be the warm night as I print in my shed and it was 10-degrees last night as opposed to 2-3 the other nights.

There is the problem! I’ve found my room needs to be 16-22°C for good prints. They don’t stick to the bed very well if its cold and the quality is poor, same when humidity is high. Also wind can affect the print quality.

Good to know! :wink:
I’ve just ordered some NGEN from ColorFabb, 2.85mm/750g for £24 a roll, currently 25% discount on some colours.

The plane I want is the one there are no pictures of. :lol:

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder, because some of those are proper dogs. :lol:

F40 doesn’t look great in photo’s, saw one the other week on the road and nearly lost my mind!

The only two cars I had on my wall.

That is exactly what I have found. I don’t buy cheap stuff anymore, gone through many reels of cheap stuff and just ended up chasing the settings, printing more than once and ruining a nozzle. 2.5Kg though 8O How big is the part?

I’d suggest giving ColorFabb XT a go. I bought some, not knowing it was similar to PETG, until yesterday when I went to re-order another roll. I find it sticks to the bed just fine, it’s actually hard to get off the blue tape, I don’t use a heated bed. Recently printed a part that was 250×80 by 60mm high and it didn’t warp or lift.

I do print the first layer at 50% speed and about 10°C hotter than the rest of the print and no cooling until about layer 3, it also in an enclosure. Have a look at Simplify 3D, it is worth the cost, as has a lot of cool features such as custom settings for first layer and loads more things.

Oh some great ideas there! Reverb lever & BB/bar ends. Do you have a Thingiverse account that you are going to upload the files to? :D

As above, get him PS+, 2 free games a month and he can play games online with his friends.

GT Sport is very good, you can get it cheap, you can also get 12 month PS+ subscription for £35.

I keep my key in one of these:

RFID Blocking Bag

I can confirm it works! As long as I remember to put it in the bag. :roll:

My car does this too. Pro tip – you can use the indicator again by moving it up or down

Did I not mention I drive a BMW? I can’t use the indicator twice on the same journey!! :lol:

Yup this is all BMW drivers, including me. We don’t car about anyone else, don’t use indicators, pull out on people and generally don’t give a shit..

Oh wait… Nope that’s just every single driver ever! :lol:

BTW I have a theory about BMW indicators, they turn off too soon. I’ve driven a lot of cars and BMW indicators turn off too soon: Indicate to go right round the round-a-bout, you have to turn slightly to the left on the approach… Indicator turns off. As said I don’t car anymore, I drive a BMW. :wink: Why cos I’m cool as **** 8)

The coolest helmets are the Red Bull full face ones. :lol:

Wow! If I turn my speakers to 11 I. An hear the static on the lines :lol:

IGMC

Take him mountain biking and watch him struggle! :lol:

How about RetroPie… A Classic gaming console emulator[/url]

I think you can install minecraft on it. I have SNES, NES, Master System, Mega Drive, Amstrad, Atari, Quake I/II/III Arena, Doom, Final Doom, Dune, Wolfenstein 3D, Steam Link, etc

EDIT: Oh you want to use it as a computer, its much better for projects and learning coding.
Take a look at AdaFruit[/url]. They have some great Pi projects with great tutorials and it really eases you into the world of Pi/Python/Github/Coding.

If the audio sync is out, usually there is an option hidden in advanced sound settings under Digital Out or something similar, which will let you adjust the audio latency.

If your TV has ARC HDMI, that should be connected to your SoundBar ARC. Everything else “should” then output the audio wherever you point it.

You will probably want a cable that supports HDMI v2.0b. I find Amazon Basics are good, you may also want some 90° Angle HDMI adapters.

Subscribed! I have looked at miners and thought about giving it a go, but not sure I want to commit when I’m not too sure on the return.

Logitech Z906 Sound System is £148.99 at Amazon! Usually about £250-£300.

I’m a vinyl guy, love the feel, but I do now use Serato as it does mean I can carry 100’s of tunes, rather than just a set of 20-40 records.

Loving People of the Boiler Room!

Now for a bit of Turntablism!

I actually scrolled up to look for the like button, next to the avatar and post count… Then I realised this is STW. :lol:

Keep posting updates…. It might inspire me to actually get my Hyper 8 running again!

If it’s been standing for a while you will have to replace the fuel lines, they will be gummed up. I highly recommend Byron Gen2 Nitro Fuel for when you do get it running. I found I wasn’t chasing the tune every 10 mins with Byron fuel.

Go careful breaking in the engine, I hated breaking them in. If you have already ran the engine, you may find the engine seized as the fuel would’ve gummed up the piston/sleeve, put some thin oil in it to soak overnight.

When I heard GT Sport + VR I thought it would be awesome and cheaper than a new TV, then I read how its only in certain modes and limited to certain tracks. :evil:

I bought a wheel as I thought it would be cheaper than looking at bike bits I don’t really need… Oh how wrong I was, nearly pulled the trigger on a Gaming/Workstation, Obutto R3volution and bought some tactile transducers along with an amp for the authentic feeling, then realised how much of a slippery slop this is. :roll:

Add my PSN if you want to compare GTS laptimes: MilkieDJ
You’ll have to put STW in the message or it’ll get ignored.

Unfortunately this isn’t an amazing post with photo’s of what I’ve printed. :|

I have found a super cheap 3D printer, under £100 and print volume is 220x220x240mm 8O

EDIT:
I did design a Evil Wreckoning Clip Holder. This needs an update as over time it becomes loose.
I designed a replacement top cup holder ring for the Sakura cup holder, it now holds a proper cup of coffee (Costa/Starbucks), this is fitted in my car as it only came with one cup holder.

I wonder if I can collect… :lol:

Whatever game you get, get a steering wheel and pedals. It takes it to a whole new level. :wink:

GT Sport turns up tomorrow and hopefully a G29 wheel/pedals/gearstick sometime over Christmas. :D

I think West of Whistler has some great names:

Mandatory Suicide
Golden Boner (as above)
and others that I can’t remember! :lol:

I’d **** with them and show them a video of Star Wars and tell them this is our future! :lol:

+1 For a HatchBag
You can chuck anything in the boot and it doesn’t ruin it. I had a Camelbak empty itself, 3L of water all over the boot, but it didn’t seep through to the boot! It’s also great for just chucking stuff in the boot and not worrying about the interior.

I tried a tarpaulin and it was rubbish, somehow dry mud made its way through the to the boot and rear seats, despite being very careful. I was unable to try a bag for the bike as it was too big to fit the bike in the bag in the car.

I was surprised it wasn’t a word, I have heard it used quite a bit! :lol:

My friend has the same issue, the headset bearing cup, which is part of the carbon frame, is slightly ovalated. He also contacted YT regarding the issue and they said its perfectly normal, this was probably nearly 18 months ago if not longer when he had other issues with the parts fitted.

He also had the issue with the BOS forks steerer cracking and was replaced with the Lyriks and since then it has occasionally made the same noise.

As above, it does go away when tightened, but makes a noise after a week of riding and requires tightening again.