people were using mining lamps on their bikes

I used to use an Oldham mining light on my bike/helmet, lead acid battery strapped to my waist. Superb light, 14 hour run time – and a filament bulb IIRC. I guess you mean the parafin & wick type.

I always thought the filament rule was to remove carbide lamps with the wee flame and reflector?

Good idea! Why didn’t I think of that :-)

Thanks

There’s such a mix of tracks on the hill, you can chooz da radnez or something.

There are a few tracks (I don’t pay any heed to their names) that you’d really want some rear travel for, but the majority would be fine on HT I reckons.

Are the non spring ones better? and how do they work if you cannot use a spring to keep the tension?

I reckon they are better. On the DMR one it’s just a case of pushing it up (or down) until the chain is tight and then nipping up both bolts (one is fixed to the wheel QR and the other bolts into the gear hanger.) I only need to touch mine when the chain gets dangerously baggy.

DMR STS (Simple Tension Seeker) for me too.

Used to run a cut down rear mech, then a 1st gen Surly Singleator. Like hungry monkey I don’t like the sprung ones, especially as my chain always has a lot of slack to take up – sprung ones kept letting the chain bounce off.

Only downside is it’s a bit of a faff getting the back wheel in and out.

Ooh – good spot – ta! I’ve not got used to the new forums here – searching an’ that :-)

I’ve already got me a White Industries freewheel – hence the need for a screw on hub. Shimano ones were lasting about 3 months, so it was a worthwhile investment.

I’m also happy to use a tensioner for the time being, it allows more options. I hope to get a proper singlespeed frame for the bike at some point. However, if the Eccentric ENO hub was OMG-amazing I might just stick with the frame I have.

That Excentriker BB is fab – except I’ve got some Middleburn UNO’s on square. Anybody make a square taper Eccentric BB? :-)

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I’m not sold on the White Industries ENO disc as it sounds like adaptor hell to get the brake to work – anyone running it and can tell me it works?

I presume you mean the Eccentric Disc hub? You have to have a very good reason to feel the need to use one of those – what’s the frame?

Yes – sorry, I meant the Eccentric Eno. The frame is a old but nice alloy frame with vertical drops. I currently use a tensioner.

Thanks for the suggestions. The Paul Component one is looking nice, although there’s not really much difference in the DMR one…

Cheers ton.

I’m planning to do it on a 1952 Flying Scot…

I’ve bodged peoples bikes to keep them riding for 3 day road/cycle path trips when I’ve not been able to replace a spoke. That has been, however, with 32 and 36 spoke wheels.

To make it work you have to massively alter the neighbouring spokes tensions, so if you’re not handy with a spoke key, or don’t have one on you, I’d avoid riding it.

My God that Alfa FZ is stunning! Never seen of that before, but my car interests get as far as Top Gear every once in while.

WANT.

I got the GW-002E-1VER[/url] 2 years ago. It is Waveceptor and solar power and is quite simply awesome. It cost me £34 from Amazon.

In ‘normal’ use, under jackets, long sleeve tops etc. (rarely shirts)- using the light on a not infrequent basis, I’ve never seen the battery indicator less than ‘High’. I’ve found the Waveceptor function to be flawless. Never had a problem getting a signal anywhere in the UK, anywhere in the house. I now have a watch which I never have to worry about, and I know is to-the-second accurate.

Took it to Europe (Amsterdam) and it worked fine. In the USA it admittedly didn’t get a signal, but it didn’t lose any time over the week we were there.

We did Morocco for our honeymoon August past. Week on the coast at Essaouira – windy but not oppressively warm – about 30 degrees. Sunshine every day. Week in Marrakech, clear blue skies – 40 degrees, a little overwhelming for the first few days but fine after that.

It was awesome.

I got this one from Jo years ago – it hangs on my study wall and is also my mouse-mat.

This is why – August 94

Yep – using the Ashima ones in 203mm F+R on Hope Mono Minis. Been running them for a wee while now for DH use. They feel excellent, bedded in very quickly and clear mud far better than the original Hope floaters. I reckon the bite on them is sharper than the Hopes, but it’s hard to tell as I use them in totally different circumstances (Ashimas on DH wheels with fat tyres, Hopes on XC wheels with normal tyres)

I would buy Ashima again if I needed a replacement set.

I didn’t notice any more post-hack, in fact I reckon since Nov/Dec my yahoo spam has decreased about 5-fold.

ardbeg (uigeadail)is the finest whisky in the world

With you on that one! Have you tried Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist as well?

For a non-Islay selection, I would through a couple of favourites out there – Glenfarclas 105 and Edradour. Glenfarclas reminded me of custard and Edradour of rich fruit cake. YUM!

Any bigger and you just lock the wheel.

As Mildred says, if you lock the wheel, you are doing something wrong.

I run 200/203/205?mm Hope M4’s front and rear and they are, by far, the best brakes I’ve used. Changed one set of pads up front (to Reds after 4 months) in nearly 3 years, riding in Alps, Fort Bill, Inners, Wales. Original pads rear. And I drag the brakes like a complete wuss. :roll:

That said, I used to have (g)Hayes with 8in rotors and they were the worst brakes ever. Ate pads on a monthly basis and still didn’t work.