Forget your boost 148, carbon rims on a 29 FTW.

@stinkytrooper

Do you recommend the Enduro 29 then mikeep?

If you plan to race enduro or ride gnarly trails then yeah, It’s a great bike.

A bit too much for trail centers or tame trails.

Rode an orange alpine 29 in france for 2 hours and it was great fun, in a straight line, over choppy ground. Wasn’t a fan of the unwillingness of it when it came to turning.

Getting back on my enduro 29er felt like a bmx!! Amazing what a few changes in geometry can do (HA/wheelbase)

Shortlist bikes -> test bikes -> pick the one you have the most fun on. F%^k strava.

Swapped my CCDB inline that came with my enduro 29 for a monarch rc3 debonair. Really suits the bike and just works with minimal faffing. Mega plush :)

Not a fan of super slack bikes as I like climbing and hate the vagueness/wheel flop you get. Rode a nomad and that was the thing that stuck in my mind. Good for descending but I like all-roundiness from a bike.

180cm, 50mm stem, 760mm bars, lrg.

Back to helping you with running wide – I find this occasionally with my 29ers, having a little too much speed and starting to run wide. I’ve got into the habit of just feathering the rear brake to bring the rear around a bit and thus straighten the bike up.

Try practicing it on the particular section you mention.

Will move your mass slightly lower and further forward. Should help the front wheel bite a little more.

You need wider bars to help lean a 29er over.

If you are at speed and have weak muscles! :lol:

What’s that got to do with it? And don’t say you need wider bars to help lean a 29er over.

740’s don’t seam to be doing Graves and Rude any harm :)

Check your bars are not too wide and/or your stem is not too long.

I ran 780 bars on a 50mm stem and had a similar issue, bike just not going where I wanted it too.

Went to a 35mm stem and the bike was going exactly where I wanted it to go, just felt like I had to put a lot of arm steering input in.

Now settled on 760mm on a 50mm stem. Bob on now.

I’m sure my Enduro 29er would feel a bit inappropriate if I was a trial center mincer. Good thing I shred the gnar then :)

3C on the rear, it’s gonna happen. Good up front tho.

Number one thing that should be done when obtaining a 29er is to get some carbon wheels onto it. Comments of sluggish acceleration and slow/vague handling soon vanish.

Yip, spesh fsr is pretty impressive. I’ve an enduro 29 and think it’s ace.

If you not riding super gnar all the time, I can recommend the Ripley. Great fun bike, real nimble. Back end gets a little flustered when super rocky/rooty.

It’s the bike that changed my mind about 29ers :)

Lighter tires and rims if you want to get it up to speed quicker :)

I’ve heard that a good starting point is your weight in Stone x 2 = min PSI. Works well for me, 22 psi on 30mm internal tubeless.

@Ton, The enduro is an extremely capable and fun bike when pushed hard. Sometimes I feel like it could take a rider that’s a bit stronger to push it to its limits and extract more speed. Gonna hit the gym this winter to bulk up a bit and see what happens :)

@rickon – Cheers :) – you’ll soon be smashing my enduro times once you’ve moved house ;)

If it’s just your 42t that’s worn, check these out:

GCX 42T Cog for SRAM XX1/X01 cassette

I ditched the CC Inline that came with my spesh E29. Never got on with it, always felt harsh on square edges. Spent lots of time trying to dial it in, always returned to the stock setting.

Monarch plus RC3 suits the FSR much better. Real plush and composed.

Lots more support with the side knobs when you lean it over.

I’ve the original one with a -1 deg headset on mine to take it to 67.5 with a 140mm fork. It is still quite a short wheelbase tho but that makes it nimble for a 29er.

My 30mm internal 29ers were built with lazers and have been fine. I have another pair made with race and I prefer the lazer wheels, they ride better, a bit more supple.

Cracked a rim about 2 weeks ago and awaiting replacement from LB.

mmmmmm……..thornielee. Just don’t do the far left trail (as you look up the hill) you’ll get sticks in your eyes.

They are really quite small compared to a 2.1 maxxis crossmark.

I road one for the first time at 10 under the ben on the rear. Super quick on the fire roads but I thought they were pretty sketchy on the damp rocky descents. No help under braking, I had my bike proper sideways with a tiny amount of rear brake and any steering input.

I prefer the crossmark. Yes, heavier and not as fast rolling but more confidence on the downs.

You want to buy mine? used once!

If you had to have one only, for everything, which would it be?

I’d opt for the wider ones if I had to choose. More grip from wider contact patch and no tire squirm. Work great with 29 x 2.5 DHF 3c’s!! :)

I have two pairs with 24 and 30 internal.

The 24’s have been used for xc’s, enduros and alp trips and have been great. Super stiff.

The 30’s I have on my bigger bike and they ride very similar to the narrower ones. You do notice that the tire feels a lot more stable when cranking the bike over in bends and you can run the tires a little softer.

I am however awaiting a replacement 30 internal as it cracked just riding along a path!!

The ideal bike for trail center strava heros.

Felt really uninspired after a rainy practice day. The natural off cut bits had were too awkward with no flow so they missed a trick there.

On the day, it was a nice xc day out in the sun. As rickon said, felt like an xc marathon day with some timed stages. I actually enjoyed some of the transition bits more that the actual stages.

Who ever tapes the course really needs to go ride it with a racers head on. We you are tanking on with max focus of the trail, the taping really needs to be obvious. I missed the turning on stage 5. :(

I can imagine that a 29er version would loose a lot of the fun factor, without any real benefit apart from if you plan to race.

The enduro 29er is certainly a whole load of fun, one of the best bikes I’ve owned, but needs to be ridden quite hard to get to the fun zone. For some, they may not have the fitness or skill to do this and I guess this may equate to a feeling of being over biked.

If the shock you have is the Cane Creek, adding low speed compression will stop pedal induced bobbing. I didn’t think the enduro suffered much from that myself.

I ditched my Cane Creek, didn’t manage to get it dialled in no matter what. Now have a monarch RC3 which really suits the Enduro.

If your bike came with spesh tires, you’ll struggle to get anything much lighter without going for xc race tires.

If your budget can stretch, get some chinese carbon rims. Makes 29ers much more lively in terms of acceleration/direction change.

I have an enduro 29 which was bought mainly to race enduros. It’s amazing. Very capable and surprisingly nimble.

Can’t say it’s ever felt like too much bike to me. It’s maybe a little dull if you are not putting much effort into it (not saying that you don’t)

Molegrips – I might have some ridden once mavic crossmax XL Pro in 44 2/3.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mavic-crossmax-xl-pro-mtb-shoes-2016/rp-prod136352

They felt a little big when I tried them on but out riding my feet move around a little. I’m normally a 9 but heard that mavis size up small. They are definitely closer to a 10. I’m trying some superfeet insoles in them later this week to see if that pads them out a little

I’d want about £80 posted. Let me know if you are interested.

A lot depends on your wing span (Arm length)

I’ve gone from 711 to 780 over a few years with stems shrinking accordingly to 35mm.

I was worried about doing the ews with 780 so tried them at 760. Didn’t feel right. Wider bars are so much more stable. You get use to shimmying them around tight spots.

I found them accurate using this:

http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator

I bought spokes before rims arrived.

What nickjb said, there is amazing riding away from the bike parks and your current bike would be great.

I go for two weeks a year and never touch bike parks.