I’d be adding the Specialised Camber to the list if you were considering last years Stumpjumper?

Very similar spec levels, with some models within your budget.

Having said that … If I was buying personally right now I’d be jumping on the Lapierre bandwagon as well. the spicy 216 / Zesty 214 are within your budget, or you could always utilise one of the finance options if you wanted to go a higher spec (www.welovelapierre.com)

Theres always bargains coming up on here for very tidy examples as well …

Peak Imaging have always been brilliant. I’d rather pay the extra £ and know hay are being dealt with professionally.

Printing wise they are one of the only labs in the country using the Durst LED printers, which produce the closest visual result to silver halides.

I take a Pentax W90, clipped to a camelbak shoulder strap with the included carabiner, with the lens facing inwards it slides snugly under the elasticated band minimising mud / splashes on the lens.

Its waterproof, drop proof and pretty much crash proof. I don’t spend any thought process worrying about it and instead enjoy the riding. Its there if something interesting pops up (ie someone else crashing).

Anything bigger / prettier and it requires stopping, unpacking, setting up, shooting, packing back up and resuming. Kind of spoils the point of being out on the bike in the first place.

… flash 10.2
Documents to go (to justify having it)
Drop box
Tweetdeck
Readers hub (for zinio hack)

Its a love or hate thing …

I kept blunting the cheap pipe cutter disks, so last time clamped the stem in place, then slid on a couple of spacer rings to cut against. They not only stop you chewing up the stem, but also spin against the blade keeping it on track if you “veer off” to much. I got a better result rotating the fork as I cut rather than cutting straight through (ie sawing both opposite walls at the same time).

Also handy reference for when you break out the file to tidy up …

Have been on a set of 819’s built on Hope II’s (built by CRC) and never had any issue with them. Have fitted Panaracer UST, Racing Ralphs, and more recently Conti x-cross RS. Only dramas there were the Conti’s but that was more the tyres fault. True UST is a benefit in that you don’t have to mess around with tape (and can get away with … but not recommended !!! … no sealant).

More recently I invested in a set of Hopehoops with Stans Crests, and initially was terrified that they were so light they would fold up, but over the last few weeks have taken the plunge with them (literally) and pleasantly surprised as how well they hold up. If you want a bit more reassurance then as given prior the Flows are a bit more robust. Downside, tape and sealant.

If I was doing it all over again, I’d go the Stans, either Crest if you’re not to heavy / clumsy, or flows if you fall in the other camp.

I used these NC-17 Carble Guides on a Stumpjumper FSR and have worked well, allow a bit of slide through is well. Also easy to remove / adjust etc.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31845

Re-hashing a similar thread, but what about adding the M 4/3’rds into the equation? Not wanting to bang on about it again but it is a bit of an in between of the DSLR / Bridge camera.

Can be argued that it lessens the negatives of both camps (physical size / image quality).

Also has the potential to be the starting point of an investment kit should you decide the past time does take your interest. With this in mind I’d recommend looking at the M 4/3 rather than the 4/3 standard as does offer more flexible with lens selection should you feel the need to get creative.

My main “gripe” about the majority of bridge cameras is there is very little benefit in the form factor regards size etc, but there is a considerable trade off in image quality (in certain circumstances).

Quick look at e-bay and there are several Panasonic G1’s with the 14-45’s or Sony NEX within the budget.

Another handy file backup tool is smartsync. Allows the creation of profiles including incremental backups and previous copy retention.

If you want to archive a cloned image paragon drive copy is pretty much set and forget.

Only caution id make with leaving a usb drive plugged in is to ensure it doesn’t overheat. If its a basic fan less design make sure its not constantly spinning when not in use.

Ditto mounting a set of conti x’s. As per cbrsyd put an innertube in, inflated and left for a few hours. I actually cut the inner and slid it out so I only broke 1/3 bead. Removed valve core and went up first time with a track pump.

Id tried everything prior, including 3 co2 canisters.

More votes for the Thermarests, what about adding a camp stretcher into the equation ????

http://www.myp2p.eu/broadcast.php?matchid=115781&part=sports

What about using Zinio … and saving a few trees 🙂

Try your nearest genius bar, they are normally pretty good with helping out with this sort of problem, and have access to the majority of software needed. Give them a call first to make sure they can help, when the quietest time is to make an appointment, and what you will need to take with you (ie licence details etc).

And ditto on the time machine, if you haven’t done before nows the time to learn (but don’t buy the POS apple time capsule … its the slowest thing on the planet !!!!)

Sorry 🙂

Carbon copy clone is a free piece of software that makes an exact copy of your old hard drive onto the new one, but u need to be able to connect both hard drives to your laptop. A 2.5″ usb caddy is about £5 and holds your new HD and let’s u plug it in via usb.

Once connected, go into applications > utilities > disk utility select the new hard drive, click on partition then format as mac os extended (journaled)

Download and instal carbon copy and follow directions to clone your old hard drive to your new one. Once complete just swap the new hard drive with your new one and you’re away.

If you instal a fresh operating system you will need to use the migration assistant to copy acrossyour old files and settings.

Making an appointment with the apple genius bar may get u some help with this as well ?

Carbon clone, you will need a usb caddy for the new / old drive. Plug in and CC will create a boot able copy of the old hard drive. Macs can also boot from usb, simply hold down option key as it starts.

Best method, plug new drive in via usb, use disk utility to format, then carbon to duplicate. Once done boot from usb to check all ok, then swap over drives.

Have a look at the Acer Emachines ET1862, higher spec than what you are looking at, at least into i3 territory so newer socket for potential future upgrades.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk have it for around £330 while Dixons etc are just on £300 (currently on sale).

I have ss race kings on a 1×9 and they are incredibly fast, but squirrelly at the best of times and not exactly confidence inspiring. That said given what I use them for namely fitness miles they are perfect.

I have just fitted the x-king RC as tubeless to my fsr, and early days but they are showing great form, granted its been dry of late but they have done the tors around derwent, as well as cannock and are very sure footed and very little speed difference to the race king.

If only the buggars would stop losing air!

Still think photography has its place, when we lost the MIL it was those that became most treasured, and heaven forbid anything happen to our own wedding album!

Think the issue for me was the clients expectation of having the same quality as what we produced, but at the same cost as mr / mrs “£500 for the dvd” and those same mr /mrs touting the “he’s ripping you off we can do it for much less” marketing approach.

Fitting analogy would be someone walking into the LBS, plonking £100 on the counter and saying “I want a bike for megavalanche and tesco sell bikes for £100 so don’t bother trying to rip me off”

They may get to the bottom of the hill on it, with teeth intact but that’s through good luck rather than good measure.

CC = minimum 2.5% fee from bank / streamline. Debit card 25p flat fee. Not to mention the “why” aspect.

If ure short on £££ just use cc to purchase everything else, or withdraw cash off it and take the hit for the bank fee yourself.

Just as a caveat to my earlier post that’s going back 4 years, when u could actually generate income off shooting weddings. The attitude of digital making it easier hence cost should be less / anyone can do it is a misconception. 10 years ago you would shoot 4 rolls of medium format (50 images), £30 of film with processing, negatives in an archive box, prints in a mount album. Technology change equated to a new film stock. The printer also had a larger influence and u would work closely with him / her to get your “look”

Digital, 200-300 images, digital work station, edit, retouch (modern brides don’t have blemishes remember) send to album company, archive all images (tiff, raw, edits) on three seperate archives. Photog now IT expert, printer, retoucher jack of all trades.

Digital helps people get it right occasionally if not by letting them know instantly if they’ve got it wrong, a profesional SHOULD get it right every time (or at least recognize when they don’t). The camera is still just a box with a hole, you have to know what it (and light) does to get good results.

Re only working six months, I wish. The entire off season is spent marketing and booking ahead for the following years, often 2 years in advance so they could get the “suitable” venue. Weddings made up 50% of the business model, and was by far and away the less lucrative and time consuming hence giving it away.

And before it gets to inflamed, its not rocket science either, its a few basic principles to capture the image, the best photographers I have worked with have been able to get the most out of the subject, they are the great artists, those that have a bit of business acumen on top … make great photographers.

Just as a quick retort to prices, typically the packages we were offering were between £1k to the £2.5K mark, based on that you’d have both a photographer and an assistant (7 years degree training in Photography between them), varying between preparation / reception / up to sit down through to Dawn to finish. Output from a rage of Graphire / Queensbury and Album Australia’s.

The market was the £10-£30k weddings.

The £1000 packages were basically loss leaders, profit was made on reprints / parents albums etc. The higher packages basically tailored everything you needed up front.

Given the UK wedding season typically (or rather historically) lasts 6 months, and you have a finite number of days to actually shoot weddings (ie weekends mainly Saturdays) Lets say for argument that you run 75% capacity so 40 weddings (typically what we would shoot). Average out the packages at £1.75K and you’re at £70k gross turnover, VAT territory so knock 20% off that so you’re down to £58k.

Typical album cost … between £300-600 so consumable costs of £18k, marketing on average 8-10 wedding fairs per year plus a website so another £10k including exhibition kit.

Camera kit, on average you’d go through a shutter and / or body (or both) every 18 months. so factor in £2k for wear and tear against at least £20k of kit (triple that if you’re using digital medium Format).

Suddenly you’re down to £28k to pay not only wages (for both of you) but also any premises / insurance and incidental costs not taking into account depreciation.

Meanwhile you’re competing against the “£500 for a disk of images” brigade.

Granted, loved the job and some weddings were a breeze, but when you earned your money you REALLY earned it, such as the occasion I was assisting when the Bride, who had booked out Tatton Park broke her nose on the Bathroom sink the night before. They has taken no insurance so had to go ahead regardless. Three weeks of retouching to get it presentable (semi charged for).

And don’t get me started on hysterical brides, wedding planners that don’t have a clue what they are doing, florists who think a slither of vine is going to hold 5kg or wet dangling roses together for a day, or Vicars who still think photographers steal peoples souls !

Brides (dont bash me for this) want the dress and the album, one to show their children and the other to show their friends and family …

Don’t miss it (ok maybe a little)

The nikon (and further back Minoltas) flash system is hands down superior (and I have been a canon user for ever). The latest Canon (esp 5*** and above) flash units are starting to get there when it comes to multi flash set ups, but to be honest if you are getting into that (and you are not Nikon) you may as well invest in a Quantum or similar system.

PS apologies for the post hijack !

Depends on how co-ordinated you are 🙂 Fairly easy using a smaller prime … more difficult as the lens bulk increases without putting the flash onto a monopod or similar. Also adjusting any camera settings becomes a bit of a balancing act depending on hand size.

Like anything does require patience, and practice. I do remember seeing an image of a pap a while back, basically had a monopod shoved done the back of his pants, with the light 4 foot above his head. Worked for him I suppose. In my early days of assisting (pre digital) a lot of time was spent simple holding an omni-bounce or an off camera flash near the subject. Worked well as the reportage era came in but haven’t seen (or used) that method for a long while.

Cable is the cheapest / easiest method and should (depending on cable) retain TTL metering, more so if you can pre-fire the flash to meter (again Nikon do this so well !) Downside is you can end up completely entangled and looking like a complete moose !

Radio slaves are dependant on system, some allow control of the flash output but you will in general lose any metering. More suited to setup shots as opposed to candid run arounds. Other downside is you typically do need a sync socket on the flash side of the setup.

Mols … off camera shoe cable? lets you place the line of flash further away from the lens line. Either as fill to decrease contrast ratio, or as main light to increase. Can also be done remotely with some systems (nikon have this nailed) or through the use of a radio slave (we use the pocket wizard system with Quantums).

A lot of flashes also have a flash / light trigger built in, so can shield the on camera flash to create enough output to fire the off camera flash, without overpowering the subject.

Fairly similar result as bouncing flash without the resultant loss in GN and useable outdoors obviously.

Just to back up what simon_g was saying above, you might find that a lot of employers given the current economic climate would welcome the chance to reduce their wage bill in the short term ?

You’d want a pretty concrete re-entry agreement though (if thats the intended course of action).

Mols. If you haven’t already invest in a Gary Fong for your flash work, cheap as to buy and softens flash down to soft ambient appearance.

I recently replaced the steerer unit in my 2009 Sids as they were to short for a frame upgrade. Petracycles replaced and cost was just on £200. Very easy replacement if you follow the instructions.

For serviceing, you cant beat tftuned, They recently did a warranty on a set of 2010 revelations that did the inevitable clunk and drop. Their typical service costs are around £80 which includes pick up and delivery.

Both TF and Petra offer lower leg rebuild kits around £30 so again, could be worth trying to do your own service before forking out for a new set altogether ?

NB : rear curtain sync has nothing to do with “the flashed look” and if your dragging the shutter enough to warrant separating the ambient motion blur from the flash exposure … you should be whacking your ISO to the ceiling, and trusting “atmospheric black and white grain” as an excuse instead.

Use flash to fil in, not to light. If available dial down your flash by a stop or two to ensure you don’t blow highlights.

If you are getting exposure issues, work out before hand how to lock exposure on your camera, skin tone is close enough to mid-gray in the majority of situations. Meter on subjects skin, recompose and shoot. as long as you have a reasonable depth of field, and the subjects are within focal plain of the skin used you will be fine for focus. Don’t meter off the dress or grooms dark suit !!!

Be prepared for stress !!!

If you’re borrowing an external flash, and it swivels invest in a Gary Fong diffuser, and keep it pointed at the ceiling when you are inside, at the people when you are outside if its bright and sunny. Practice before hand.

If in doubt let the camera run the show !!!

Charge everything up the night before, and turn your camera off when you’re not using it, you may get through the day that way … but be prepared in case you don’t.

Get as many images as you can before the ceremony (bride, bridesmaid, flowers, rings, groom (if he’s about).

You’ll have all the group images to take afterwards, and at that stage everyone will want to hit the bar and the bride will want out of her dress 🙂

Speak to the registrar BEFORE the ceremony so you know what they will let you photograph and what you can use (ie flash during the ceremony)

DO NOT photograph the marriage registry book, check with the registrar and if permitted when they have finished signing, turn to a blank page, place the flowers in front of it and have them reenact the moment.

Take loads of detail shots, they make great filler.

A tripod is a good idea for group shots, as if your stuck indoors you will be dragging the shutter so blur is an issue and means you can set up the shot, and concentrate on getting everyone in place. Don’t go below f8 for group shots !!!

Get someone to help organise people if they have a shot list (and ask the B&G to write down every conceivable shot they may want)

Don’t tell them about the album until its done, just in case it all goes pear shaped.

vlookup will work, but only if there is only a single result for each number in the second table. You will also need to incorporate and “ISNA” argument to remove the N/A results.

A pivot table looking solely at table two would be better as you can use the sum function (or average depending on what end result is needed). The results of the pivot table can then be used with the vlookup function (set to false) if you need to reduce it specifically to the numbers in table one.

Comfort and safety for me. Find it hard to trust the lower end versions with the blown / injected polystyrene, with a semi hard shell that sits loosely over the top of it.

Going up the price line means I can get it to fit, it adjust easily, and in some cases has a crash replacement policy to incentivise the replacement should anything untoward happen.

Most recently had a Giro Xen, fitted well in the shop but it but it made me look like someone had stuck a water tower on my head, and when riding felt like it as well. Was forever tipping forward and for some strange reason every time I looked down a load of sweat would pour out..

More recently went with the 661 recon, and love it. Deeper cut at the back kept me warmer in winter, and it sits far more comfortably than the Xen (on my pin head anyways). Surprisingly have found it very well ventilated as well (summer only just kicking in but did 30 miles on Wednesday without complaint)

Few years back Williams BMW in Stockport, literally threw me the keys and told me to bring it back when it ran out of diesel on a used X5 (which didn’t take long … it certainly got up and went!!!).

More recently when trading on BMW (wont shame as they had provided good service up to that point) in Doncaster, took three days to get 15 minutes guided in a new 5 series, and that was after several chase up phone calls on my behalf.

Honda, wouldn’t even arrange a test drive as “don’t have the diesel here” coupled with my jeans and t-shirt obviously had them pre-judging.

Hatfields Jaguar in Sheffield dropped an XF off at home, took me out for 15 minutes to run through all the options then collected it at the end of the day. Needless to say guess which two got sales (and the trade in).

Go with the company that provides you with service from the outset, because you will no doubt be dealing with the same service mentality every time you go in for service / advice / sell on etc.

“**** in a Jag”

Is he a “****” because he drives a Jag ?

Give the bike tree in sheffield a call as well, they have a good range in store, and also sell through their ebay outlet. They are a great bunch of blokes and i’m sure will sort something.

Recently went through similar with two associated businesses. The sticking point mainly is the number of redundancies involved. If its under 20 then its a lot simpler process (the consultation process is reduced, and you don’t have to notify the RPO prior to commencement).

Having said that the RPO office is probably the best source of information, and will on occasion provide a consultation service. The Government Gateway and the Businesslink website also lay out the complete process from start to finish.

We also used Mentor (who are part of the RBS group) who were exceptionally good, they may be able to offer assistance as a one off (we have them as underwriters and HR advisors on a permanent basis)

Going forward, I would recommend retaining a similar service, its costs me just under £100 month for having under 20 employees, and provides full HR consultation, and litigation cover.

Worthwhile contacting your local chamber of commerce as well, as i know ours offers a similar service for members as the RBS.

what about an 08 Skoda Fabia in orange / Bronzy colour ???

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/elderly-neighbour-and-webuyanycarcom

edit … damn … beaten to it !!!

What about putting it through auction yourselves ???