I often rely on the “Rack off mate”. It hardly ever causes upset when followed with a wry “I’ll bloody thump you” smile.

Obviously this does not apply when it is the Wifey taking the wee wee.

Is that a bent spoon epoxied to the rear stay supporting it all ???

Leave it broken and call it a Windoze Imac …

You may have to break a few more bits first though …

Reminds me of Melbourne, on Sunday mornings (generally) you will find large groups of cyclists on the motorways, the inside lane becomes their track for the duration. They’ve even been known to close down the odd motorway for the benefit of them.

Now thats open minded policy making ….

Glue it to the back of the samsung screen and call it the poor mans Imac !!!

Ditto Rob, I was riding in the middle of a group of three, all I heard in front of me was a scream and a clatter, came out of the shade of the trees into bright sunlight as I realised what was ahead, tried to scrub off speed, twisted front wheel landing from the first lip, landed with a handful of rear brake and ended up making it half way down before dropping on to my hip for the rest of the journey (I blame the wet rocks … obviously not visible in the picture)

Hence the artistic camera shake …

Its not a massively difficult job, had to remove the keyboard when I upgraded the hard drive on a previous macbook. The only stumbling block is unclipping everything, I had a tool that was provided with an iphone replacement screen, kind of like a really really thin tyre lever. Lets you slide between the two surfaces and unclip.

Getting back together used the tool again rather than just brute force and was fine.

And don’t forget to earth yourself to the chassis !!!!

Option b is to use it instead of a mac mini ??? MacBooks will function while closed so offers all the benefits of a mini … without the outlay (or am I missing something ?)

I could add more saturation to the blood stains …

taken from the bottom … on a phone … after skidding on my side most of the way down

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coed[/url] by mighty.marmite[/url], on Flickr[/img]

It certainly looks steeper from the top (assuming this is the right spot)

As said above the risk is you do more harm than good so thats the first caveat out the way. If you MUST have a go yourself …

Can you hear the drive spooling up when it is powered on (hold it to your ear, you should hear a high pitched whine) ? If you can at least the spindles are running, second thing is any clicking noises, if it clicks repeatedly unplug it, and leave it for the experts (normally means one of the drive heads is catching a spindle, or is damaged).

If its spinning, and not clicking make a cloned copy, You could try Acronis / Paragon or Norton Ghost to create a raw clone of the drive, then use the trial software as above to scan the drive for files (I use Paragon). It should work even though the drive is not recognised by Windoze

Had a very similar situation where the boot sector / MBR of a hard drive was corrupt, same message in that no operating system found. Tried the Win7 Recovery disks, and the bootsect.exe prompts without success.

My laymans understanding is that the loss of the Boot / MBR sectors removes the instructions of what the drive is (ie file system / sector size / disk size) hence when its connected its not recognised.

The data recovery software bypasses the boot sector gubbins and simply scans the raw drive for information. It then strips out all the files and does its best to rebuild them. Biggest failing I had were larger image files (ie over 30mb tiffs / raws) that were very hit and miss to recover and the loss of a lot of file names. This is much the same as a recovery service will do unless its physical damage, in which case they will remount the platters and thats HUGE money by comparison to the quotes above.

Was the laptop dropped before it stopped working? if so Id be very cautious about using the drive at all as may be a physical issue with the drive (ie heads / platters) Any further spooling can worsen the damage.

If not dropped, Is the drive discoverable when you go into your “my computer” > Manage when connected via USB? if so then the data should be partially recoverable as more likely a boot sector / boot loader problem. If its not showing then would indicate towards a hardware issue as above.

If it is discoverable Ive had good results with DDR- NTFS recovery, did lose the entire drive structure on recovery, and a lot of the file names but good in an emergency.

DDR Software

I would recommend cloneing the drive first before you attempt anything to drastic, and work on the cloned copy, again in case there is any physical damage.

And invest in an SSD drive as a replacement … fewer “surprise” issues with them.

Why? was it you?

Nope, but I’m sure big brother has many many hours of footage of all of us twisting the law a little, or doing something “unfortunate”.

I certainly wouldn’t be impressed if that footage was released to the likes of The Sun to gloat over.

*heads off to don tin foil hat and lead perfect law abiding life*

Nice to see all those invasive cameras that have been installed to reduce crime levels are being put to good use, esp as staff have obviously spent considerable time and resources tracking the bloke.

Yes I know he was clearly drunk and no doubt disorderly, but why are the CCTV services permitted to release these videos to the public ?

Wonder where privacy laws come in to all this.

Identical to richmtb. Checked after a month as was feeling grindy and FULL of crud and rust. Theres basically zero sealing bar the rubber ring that sits around the Crown race (which is pants anyway).

Given that our other bike has a Hope which has been going for 12 months under identical conditions doesn’t bode well.

Regards stems, FSA do a 35mm version, or the NC17 Slick Stick

Slickstick

offers a similarr stack height, but a single bolt clamp design so can run the stem slightly short (a hope hed doctor allows for more clamping force). Bit heavy though.

Lastly if you can live with a very short stem the Spank Spike is the lowest stem I’ve found
Spike

I eventually gave up and replaced the CSU so have both the above stems if your interested in buying ?

Im one of the “crank brothers are crap” brigade sorry, I pulled a cobalt after a month and it was full of rust and gunk. If you have no alternative (and there basically aren’t any) then make sure you use both a gator on the bottom, fit the rubber seals properly and keep them well lubed / greased.

Other options I went through was a single bolt clamp stem (NC-17 and Spike) before finally admitting defeat and replacing the CSU.

Took me many days, and curses to seal a set of “tubeless ready” Conti X-Kings Race Sports. Not sure if schwalbe will be the same but sidewalls were VERY leaky, and weren’t the easiest to get the beads to seal.

Ended up scuffing the insides with a plastic brillo pad, then mounting them with tubes for a couple of days, (they were a lot easier to seat and seal then), Adding ALOT (ilke 400mls) of stans to each wheel. Sloshing it round and leaving on a bucket over night, alternating sides. Bath check after first night had it down to a couple of pin pricks. Another night had them 100% sealed.

Used the Stans syringe to remove all the sealant leaving a dribble behind (basically the bit that wouldn’t syphon out) and have ridden on them for a good 200 miles with zero problems.

Shaved a good 600 gms off the previous set of Panaracer UST’s that were fitted.

Have a down tube high mount 30.9mm Pauls if interested. £20 posted. or £15 if you can collect from sheffield.

Does need a straight tube though. Switched to the BB mount version due to a frame upgrade (also for sale 🙂 Never dropped a chain with them, and very clean tidy and light.

Drop me an email at t.armstrong at me.com if interested.

Hasn’t been running a 29″ rear tyre on it have they ?????

Ditto Stan-Bad … but with a massive dose of no-nails. Also could you dynabolt a baseplate into the floor for added measure, and a bench to provide a decent footing ?

I personally don’t get on well with tool boxes, as said what you need is always at the bottom, and I tend to unpack everything as the job progresses. Much prefer a tool wall whereby you can lift what you need and stick it straight back when your done. Keeps the bench tidy to boot.

… wish my wife had the same reaction :-/

Its a shame you never RECORDED The temp, would make humble pie more palatable for certain people.

Google “300 Spartan exercise routine”. That will harden u up …

There’s a great mountain at home in newzealand called Whakapapa. The maori pronounce the “wh” as a “f”

Probably not so popular with mums to be. …

Looks identical to my avid version. Maybe wouldn’t use the dot fluid just in case tho. …

No dramas. That was back in the late 1800’s from memory. Well before cow flatulence, range rovers and all the other global warming. Its probably hotter than the sun out there by now

Not wanting to p*** on elfins parade or anything, but the highest RECORDED temperature in Australia is 53.1 in Cloncurry. Remember that one from an Australia Day Quiz.

Good on ya Kiwi !

And who said they couldn’t fly

What size are you looking for, reason being have a 21″ Stumpjumper Marathon Carbon that am debating selling. Purchased the frame brand new at start of winter, and can honestly say it is mint as spent most of time of the FSR! Built up with SLX / XTR mix in a 1×9 (still have parts for the original Triple). Rockshox Sid Teams, Formula K24’s, Speed Kings. complete build is just on 10kg complete.

You’ll get change from your budget at least.

Drop me an email if interested.

The Fox Triad is not a reliable shock especially of that vintage (seal issues) and is not interchangeable with an RP23, I don’t think, due to how it mounts the frame. Or you can only put in an RP23 after extensive modifications.

Huh ? Its a straight bolt in affair to go to a 200×50 RP23 which fits without binding or issues, raises the BB by around 2/3″ and increases travel by around 10 -15mm. Totally changes the character of the bike as well. Turns it into a very stable and smooth ride.

Between the family we have both the 07 with the above mentioned RP23 pushed shock, and an 08 Expert with the Brain. The RP23 makes for a far better ride, and being able to adjust pro-pedal etc while riding is a real bonus.

The neighbour has just swapped out his Triad on an 08 Stumpjumper after riding our 07. As the shock is slightly shorter than the 07 went with the 190×50 again without any issues and cost all of £99 on bay. The 200×50 did fit, but it was mm between the aircan and the frame so erred on the side of caution with it.

Theres a set of formula R1X (R1 levers with RX callipers – typically off the Lapierre) on flabby at the minute for £175 BIN …

Being self employed its pretty mandatory for me, and having had a couple of injuries last year am certainly glad for the benefits.

Mine is part of a Shop policy that covers several other things, but given the ease of claim and support given if they do offer policies to individuals I’d recommend Norwich Union / Aviva.

Mines more of a cover of costs while incapacitated, although there is some death cover (which the wife likes to point out and smile at on occasion).

Recently picked up a Dell 1320c for the home office.

Very easy to set up on the network, not very Mac friendly but still works ok (have to print preview before sending to spool) Quiet and quick, and doesn’t have to bad a smell when its in operation.

From memory about £140, and the inks are slightly cheaper than most. Photographic quality is pretty low on the agenda though, and the output certainly reflects that.

I’d buy it again.

Regards Inkjets, epson are the worst for infrequent use, and the heads are typically not user serviceable. HP on the other hand are an absolute dream. Have both a Z3200 and a smaller B9180. Both have replaceable heads which are around the same cost as an ink cartridge.

Some of the smaller Canons also have similar.

As a note it does help to leave most inkjet printers on 24/7. They will regularly go through a nozzle clean cycle to minimise blockages. Uses a bit more ink but can work out cheaper (less hassle) in the long run.

Honestly dont do it !!!!

Just waaaaay to risky in my eyes. Went through similar recently. Short term fix was a Crank Brothers cobalt head set, and a spank spike stem. Gave me 35mm over a standard set up.

Head set lasted a month (they are crap) … and the stem was only 50mm long. Gave me the incentive to bite the bullet.

Purchased a new CSU from petra cycles, was just on £200, plus an hour to fit. Job sorted.

Do you currently have centerlock rotors ?

The ‘best’ bike is the one that makes you want to get out of bed and ride on a wet windy day…

My wife does that … but Im not calling her a bike !!!

I wondered why my forks kept shouting “freedom” and turning a weird blue colour after I fitted the CSU ???

If the wind you’re cycling into is massive enough to overcome the hydrostatic head of a technically waterproof fabric, you won’t be cycling, you’ll be being blown backwards at a phenomenal rate. Trust me, it won’t happen.

Not if you’re a REAL man and took your rigid SS with carbon rims off your Chubby mini and went for a gnar ride down a chalky run …

Its only them lazy full sussers that would stay dry.

8)

Wife was recently fitted with Monthlys by Boots. The variety that you can leave in for an entire month. Fitted told to come back in three weeks.

Once week later complete agony so went to see one of the Opthamologists at her work. He freaked out. The under sides of her eyelids looked like a 15 year old lad in the middle of an acne breakout.

Something to do with protein reactions (she’s the doctor not me). As a result she’s just had Lasik surgery as she was no longer able to wear her standard contacts.

Neighbours daughter by comparison … no issues at all.

Going off on a slight tangent … but I’ve always been under the understanding that the layers underneath the jacket are more important than the layer on the outside. Most jackets will either

a) leak when the outside pressure exceeds its tolerances (ie cycling into a gale force wind)

or

b) fill up like a kiddies paddling pool with sweat …

Back in the younger days the standard bush dress to go tramping was a wool undershirt, a jumper a big heavy woollen “bush shirt” and a PVC waterproof to chuck on if it really started belting down (or the wind got up a little).

Obviously the rest of the attire consisted of shorts (cause legs are waterproof) and some woollen socks.

In fact we did both the Annapurna circuit and Everest base camps wearing the same without bother.

Along came Gortex and all the others with their millions of dollars of research and tried to outdo it all …

Ok, so its lighter thats a given. But I still swear by the woollen undershirt (icebreaker) Woollen jumper (mums christmas special) and a jacket to keep the bulk of the wet out. If it leaks … no dramas the wool keeps me insulated until it drys out again, and if I actually work up a sweat … it wicks it all away.

try petra cycles

http://www.petra.co.uk

They have a huge range of fork spares, got a CSU from them a while back and top service.