Where’s the bit where u drop the wheel, spilling stans all over the kitchen floor (and dog), then spend 40 minutes cussing and cursing when the buggar bead wont seal, sweating like a demented ape while you crash up and down on the track pump. Wonder if he will mount mine next time?

Completly agree with big_scot. Keep it simple. All to easy to get caught up in the what gear for what situation drama. And concentrate on natural light initially. Learning the art of photography is about learning about light, not equipment. It doesn’t have to be expensive, your 50mm 1.8 out resolves my f1.2 which cost 12 times as much.

Decide what u want to photograph, then select the appropriate lens for the subject. Given the sensor size in this case would be 17 / 20 mm landscapes, 35mm do everything, 50mm portraits and 135 sports etc.

Most focal lengths have a variety of apertures buy the brightest u can afford.

I always start with excess fluid so when laid flat a decent covering will go around the entire circumference. Once side walls are sealed break bead and draw out excess with the stans applicator syringe. Works (mostly) for me.

Whoops … I like my Race-king ss’s but do limit them to flatter fitness rides on a 1×9 carbon stumpjumper build. They are just so indecently light. Yet to see how the X-kings hold up by comparison on the heavier rides / bike (still trying to get them to seal).

What is absolute pants though is Crank Brothers, cobalt headset dead in a matter of months. Lockon grips with end caps made of brittle plastic that shatter when you fit them, and sponge grips that disintegrate after 4 rides. Im just hoping the stem doesn’t explode as well … they must have made the Formula R1 torx bolts as well.

Bah …

Im still trying to seal a set of x-king RS (and they are marketed as being UST ready). The sidewalls is the issue, loads of pinholes. I’ve got one sealed up now while the other is losing around 5psi overnight. They were also one of the more difficult tyres to initially seal (started the process last Friday)

Since starting I’ve read the key is to buff up the inside of the tyre to lessen then waxy compound, but also to provide a surface for the sealant to key onto. Also I started with Joes sealant, and got no where, so tried Stans and have had much better results.

Also read that brushing a layer of latex and glitter on before you start will speed up the process (cant vouch for that just yet).

So far I’ve got as far as putting about 300 mls of stains in each wheel, and leaving it flat on its side, this seems to be working (the bathtub bubbles have slowed to a trickle now).

Worth persevering though as the tyres weighed in at 475 and 486 gms respectively which is a significant saving over the 830 gm Panaracer Fire X Pro’s they are replacing.

Mounted to a set of X819 / with hopes they weigh 1670 gms front and 2015 gms rear with approx 50 mls sealant in each.

I’ve a set of Supersonic Racekings fitted to a Hope Hoops Crest wheelset, by comparison the front is 1430 gms (with inner tube), but they are ridiculously thin in the sidewall and think they would make the x-kings look easy to seal by comparison.

Nikon (and others) also do a series of screw in macro / magnification filters, quality is acceptable but does allow non macro lenses to focus closer.

Other option is to introduce more light, and use a smaller aperture, there are several cheap(ish) ring flashes that would be suitable for macro photography.

Extension tubes extend the back focus distance of the given lens, effectively allowing a closer point of focus (macro) without affecting the focal length (ie a 50mm stays at 50mm).

A teleconverter extends the focal length of the given lens, by whatever ratio the teleconverter is (typically 1.4 or 2.0) Ie a 200mm lens with a 1.4 converter becomes a 280mm lens.

The trade off with teleconverters is the same affect on the Aperture. ie an f4 lens with a 1.4 teleconverter effectively becomes an f5.6. Most TTL metering systems will automatically compensate but does require higher shutter / iso’s if your pushing for light.

Other negative (damn there are a few !!!) is the loss in image quality, putting several lens elements in the light path will have some negative impact which differs from model to model as well as impact on Autofocus (which is body dependant depending on focus sensor type).

And lastly, when using teleconverters ensure their is sufficient room behind the back element of the lens to accommodate the teleconverter, or you will damage the elements !!!!

Given the focal multiplier you’ve given (35 to 70mm), I assume its on a 4/3rds system in which case choices are fairly limited, the other option is to use a lens adapter and go for a manual focus macro lens from another format. I’ve used several Leica and Canon lenses on a G1 and been pleased with the results.

Also, the longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field for the equivalent magnification / subject size at the given aperture.

The Vibrams remind me of the Nike Rifts, comfortable initially but I always ended up with blisters between my toes. Not only that but the socks (like karate socks) were a nightmare.

How on earth you’d wear socks (and minimise toe rot) with the Vibrams is beyond me, not only that but the only time I saw a bloke wearing them it looked like chimpanzee hands hanging out the bottom of his jeans !

Have seen the Merrells on the barefootathlete website so assume they are available.

Re aching shins, I have a terrible natural gait, with heavy pronation and heel strike (hence the knee issues) so the initial change in force felt like shin splints for the first couple of weeks until I learnt to shorten my stride and adjust my body angle. I wouldn’t go back to lifted soles now though given the improvements I’ve seen.

Absolutely recommend winter tyres (still amazes me that they are so hard to get hold of over here) It took me 6 weeks to finally source a set last winter and in that time my car (a Jaguar XF) would not even move out of the flat drive (I swear to god the “snow” setting is nothing more than a switch with a light on it).

Further ABSOLUTELY don’t recommend putting on less than a full set, while you may get away with a half set (more so on front wheel drive cars) if it does go pear shaped … thats when you’ll be thinking “buggar … should have got the other two” Not only that but you might strike problems with your insurance if it does go wrong.

Also, when I asked about going to a smaller rim size (19″ to 18″s to cut cost of winter tyres) was told my premium would go up by nearly £600 (doubled) as they were deemed non standard, they also told me that by fitting winter tyres the premium would increase by £215 as they were not recommended by the manufacturer (Jaguar actually do recommend the P-Sottozero I was looking at !) Needless to say went to another insurers.

Have a look at http://www.mytyres.co.uk. They will send tyres to a nominated tyre dealer who will fit them to your rims for a fee (I paid £10 a corner with balancing)

After fitting driving in the outside lane with the Defenders became the norm, and despite the sheffield snowfalls never gave it a second thought.

They are slightly noisier, didn’t seem to make a difference to MPG (i have racks fitted 24/7 anyway so both noise and MPG are killed by them) and after 6k miles in three months still show minimal signs of wear.

I’d personally go with the inov-8’s, they were around long before Merrel jumped on the bandwagon. I was recommended zero lift shoes after knee problems and haven’t looked back.

I’ve had several of the 190 and more recently the 195’s and they are hard to beat. They are also beneficial in the gym etc if you are doing squat / deadlifts as they help maintain better stability.

Running in barefoot shoes takes some getting used to, your shins will no doubt kill for the first few outings so recommend taking it relatively easy until you adapt.

Id recommend a chinning bar. While hand weights are beneficial for isolated training, large compound movements are better for strength gains (assuming that is what you are after).

Depending on the model they can be set at various heights to enable full chins, laid down curls, or even as a support for your feet while you do elevated press ups.

try petracycles.co.uk, they have a large stock of spares, supplied a replacement steerer unit for mine.

I’ve got 19″ x 245 on a 59 XF, replaced them in feb for £205 per corner. Like audi they eat pirellis, but the dunlop sports have lasted 20k for me, plus have a buffer line to help prevent curbing.

Only hassle I had was sourcing winter tyres, and they ended up at £280 per corner! It was only marginally more expensive to fit a set of cheap 18″ rims with winters by comparison.

I’ve always purchsed through mytyres.co.uk who deliver free of charge to the local garage (hawthornes in Sheffield) who fit them for £10 per corner.

Also check with your insurers, if the 19’s are considered non standard … it will cost, tesco quoted an additional £ 590 to have the 18″ rims on even though they are a factory option for lower models, and £215 for having winter tyres fitted (hence direct line now have my policy).

Resurrect an old post, but try the skins recovery clothing. Discovered them at the tail end of my rugby days, in combination with ice baths helps reduce the next day tightness. From my laymen understanding its all based on the RICE injury treatment, which I guess makes sense.

Sensor size also factors in. I trust ur camera body has no DOF preview function?

Fotosharp used to do a slider table that was handy, u may be able to download a template.

Remember as well that at any given aperture acceptable field of focus extends 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind the focus point so does pay to forward focus slightly.

And lastly, lens can (and alot do) front or back focus, this can be compensated for with primes but very difficult without body / lens calibration for zooms.

Id second the vote for wanaka / queenstown in nz. Wont be heavily affected by rugby world cup as majority of matches have been moved north due to christchurch earthquake. Its an area that’s hurting and the return of tourists will go a long long way. Certainly plenty to do and some spectacular scenery in the vacinity.

Having said that vancouver / bc is a very very close second (nz has home town bias). Both great destinations to self drive and explore a little.

Another vote for winegums. Cheap as and can get anywhere. Key for me at least, is to constantly snack, if I bunk its to late. Fluids are far more important however.

Id tend to agree that simple sugars are more beneficial for short term needs, while complex carbs are a neccesity id be into those well before heading out.

Add a vote for X819’s on hopes, been the go to wheel set for 3 years when its more bash and crash. More recently I’ve picked up a set of hope hoops with stans crest rims, they are crazy light with a set of conti Race King SS fitted. Haven’t mistreated them in anger real anger yet, but they’ve handled cannock just fine.

Well done becky. When ready hunt out the canon EF50mm f1.8, build quality is slightly “light” but the end results are on par with its more expensive brethren. It actually out performs my similar f1.2 version for resolution in some areas. New they are sub £100. It will result in a longer focal length on the 350d (80mm) but becomes a stunning portrait / detail lens.

The 35mm f2.0 would make for a nice everyday standard lens.

Regards longer focal lengths, the Sigma 100-300 f4 is very well regarded, and may provide the extra reach you need over the similar 70-200 range. It may be slightly dark depending on what sports you are shooting though. It can also be used with teleconverters at a push to further extend focal length (but will exacerbate the lack of light issue).

@ molgrips

I assume that post was intended for myself ?

In which case, no, I correctly gave my advice thanks. I recommend the 4/3’rds standard as opposed to the traditional 3/2 due to its benefits in weight advantage, cross platform approach and compactness. My personal investment has been in the GF1 which is a mirrorless 4/3 design (marketed as micro 4/3), and given the original posters interest in retaining a reflex system, not applicable but does carry weight in the similarity of end quality and is part of the 4/3 standardisation.

Regards the 50mm, It wasn’t intended for your list, but rather the original poster who expressed an interest in learning about focal lengths, and wasn’t concerned about multiple lenses if it would result in better images. Coupled with extension tubes it will also result in reasonable magnification … hence the recommendation.

Similar experience but in a different field, namely Photography. I spent 15 years tinkering before investing in a studio 5 years ago, and haven’t looked back. Like any business it has its ups and downs, but you HAVE to have the capital and cash-flow to get through the downs. Most businesses don’t close through lack of performance, its lack of marketing and or cash flow that does it. Whats been key for me at least is standing out quality wise against the competition, retaining good staff and securing decent retail finance for clients.

The benefit of the Bike industry is you can also support your turnover with online sales even if simply through Ebay or similar.

While business has certainly decreased over the past couple of years, what has stood the test of time for myself is maintaining the highest level of service, which sorry to say seems to be the first thing that is cut back on here in the UK. A prime example is a shop here in Sheffield, with a window full of expensive machinery, that you are not allowed to look at! I recently went in to look over a potential purchase, and was told that you couldn’t go into that area of the shop. It came across as pure arrogance. I’ve come across this so many times, from purchasing everything from equipment for work, to new cars. Never judge a book by its cover, and never be to busy to assist … or you will lose business as a result.

By comparison the Bike Tree, which is 2 minutes up the road are the opposite end of the spectrum, you are always warmly greeted, there is always time for a chat or a piece of advice. I have ALWAYS been an internet shopper but increasingly find myself heading there and am quite happy to pay a bit extra for the atmosphere. Hopefully soon I will be brave (read fit) enough to join them on their wednesday hit out.

As others have suggested, you have to find your hook in the market, why are people going to come to you, and how are you going to convince them to do so, and to keep doing so. As an example of savvy thinking several Australian clothing stores now have Man creches, a nice comfy sofa, a games console / sports TV and a rack of magazines. While the bloke is entertained the SO can relax, browse, and up her spending.

Going back a couple of years here, but my local bike shop in New Zealand ALWAYS had the best coffee, and it was free, and warmly offered. There was always something decent on the TV’s and tools and guidance were keenly offered to those that frequented the shop. They had a fantastic stock of sold on behalf items and it became the norm just to pop down simply to hang out. The range of shiney bits on display ensured their turnover reflected their popularity.

I’d strongly suggest talking to your Business Banking Manager, they know what is happening in most retail sectors, and can give real world advice. You will need enough capital to cover ALL the overheads of the business for the first six months (including your own wages). On top of this factor in premises, shoplift, lease bonds (averaging 12 months at the minute). Personal guarantees on everything (scary as hell) and recruitment.

Good luck !

If its an external bottom bracket, have a look at the Pauls chain keeper. Had the tube mounted version on a rockhopper frame, and more recently the BB version on a stumpjumper ht carbon marathon.

Simply sandwiches between bearing and frame, I had to add a shim to clear slightly.

Very tidy, light and reliable. They are listed on ebay regularly.

I do still have the seat tube mounted version if interested, but needs straight tube.

To be fair the lenses that come in kit form with most cameras these days are perfectly adequate for the majority of most situations, where they fall down is in contrast, handling glare and focus speed / robustness.

First purchase I always recommend is a decent 50mm prime, with as large an aperture as u can afford. This provides a natural field of view, and decent drop off. If ure going to a smaller sensor size the 35mm provides equivalent fov, but u will sacrifice aperture. On the plus the 50mm becomes an outstanding portrait lens.

For macro, invest in a set of extension tubes.

I’ve been recommending 4/3 format to a few people of late, purely due to its convenience. The Panasonic GF1 / GF2 is hard to beat, and the 20mm f1.7 is a superb lens.

I currently use this as a backup to a leica system and have been pleasantly surprised as to its quality.

My wife has a 2007 stumpjumper originally equiped with the triad, this was swapped out for a 200 x 50 RP23 from tftune (with custom valving) Is a straight swap, slight change in geometry but more affected / compensated by the revelation u-turn on the front.

Completly different bike now, much smoother through its travel, and zero bob on the level 2 propedal. Can’t recommend enough.

Did similar swap on friends 2008 but required 190 shock length as discovered orignal triad is shorter on the newer (vertical shock) stumpjumper.

See the same shock on ebay for £100 fairly regularly.

“Goods not fit for purpose” retailer has the option of either repairing / refunding or replacing. Same warranty applies via your credit card provider, as the provider of the credit facility they assume liability for the goods purchased.

You also have 14 days to cancel any credit / finance agreement but this is only the method of payment, not the contract to purchase.

I’ve had the KS i950 on a stumpjumper throughout winter, as above didn’t realise how handy it was to be able to adjust on the fly.

Initially I fitted it without the remote, but added this recently which has improved dramatically (recommend going with it from the outset).

Had the reverb been available I’d have gone down that route, but certainly not disappointed with the KS.

Huge benefit when in doubt / misjudged whats ahead, or even being able to raise the seat for a short sprint / rest in between the clatters.

Only hassle though is can no longer fit an under saddle bag for tools etc, so everything has to go in a camelbak plus adds circa 500 grams to the mix.

If you can fit the longer version(s) deaf would, I’ve got the 400mm with approx 100mm above the seat collar which allows full extension and sufficient drop.

I’ve just spent the evening seating a set of continental x-king RS on a set of mavic x819’s.

Tried everything, soap water and 3 co2 canisters but nothing doing.

In the end fitted a set of old tubes, pumped them up to 40psi till they popped on, left them a few minutes then unseated the tyre near the valve, cut the tube in half and pulled it out through the gap, gently got the tube less valve in then reseated tyre. lay the wheel flat on the ground with the unseated side down. Several short bursts with the track pump and up it went.

Worked until I get a compressor !!!

I plunged on both the V1 ipad on release and sold it after a few months. I have literally just now got the V2. Sold the V1 as found that I would reach for my phone if I wanted to do something quickly, or the laptop if it was something more in-depth.

Since selling the V1 I have gone completely paperless with my magazines, relying on Zinio instead (while not perfect its better than a 10 foot high pile of magazines in corner).

The hassle with the laptop (17″ macbook) is mainly the heat, and partially the portability. Its hard to sit on the throne balancing a laptop (where is where all good reading is done).

This coupled with the improved media streaming functions plus movie availability which I can incorporate with the Apple TV as well as improvements to dropbox and similar functions for work use makes for a (semi) reliable closed system.

Hence the return to the V2 Ipad. I also looked very closely at the Xoom, but it just wasn’t as polished as the Apple system / infrastructure. Im sure very soon it will be in which case Apple will have a fight on its hands, at which time I can sell the Ipad for a 30% loss and buy again if need be.

Regards the “which one” question you are ALWAYS going to wish what ever one you go for did “X” like “Y” does, thats why i’m sure most of us have n+1 bikes (bloody marketing people) but unless you take the plunge you’re never going to know. Like the add says … just bloody do it already!

The resonance pulse and laser promotes the bone growth. Its stimulates the formation of chondroblasts between the bone ends. This is like the girders on a bridge, then all the osteoblasts get to work weaving new bone (basically a great big lump of it) then over time the osteaclasts reshape the bone into some form of normality. Its a bit “out there” according to some but he’s had thousands of clients throughout the years and specialises in this type of injury (including motocross). He’s a good bloke as well which helps.

The cross chest sling issued by the hospital is a complete waste of time, its there for pain management more than anything. The cross brace basically pulls yours shoulders back from behind, and helps hold the bones in alignment so they can start to fuse, painful as anything and I basically laid awake for the first four days and cursed it to hell for the following four weeks … but it did its job.

Re surgery, research the different techniques. The majority of surgery over here seems to be the plate approach, which requires open surgery, drilling more holes in the bones plus potentially removal and a few associated issues. A couple of friends back in New Zealand have recently had a procedure whereby a steel “skewer” is inserted through the length of the collar bone via a small incision on the head of the shoulder, lines everything up, and provides support without drilling extra holes etc in the process. They were up and about in 2 days with simple R&R recovery process. If you google “dual-trak clavicle screw” will give you an idea.

I didn’t go the surgery route as my displacement was corrected through manipulation, and managed to keep it fairly well aligned throughout the healing process.

Defo PM me if you want to ask anything specific, but as a caveat every collarbone injury has different issues, dependant on number of breaks, displacement and general health so what works for one may not work for another.

Sounds exactly like what mine were doing, like running your finger round the top of a wine glass ! Drove everyone insane.

Try cleaning / swapping the rotors to see if it resolves.

Had similar issue when I fitted an Avid disk on the rear with a set of Formula R1’s. Howled continuously. Dabbing the brakes would stop it for a few seconds only to return. Riding friends were throwing stuff at me to try and make me drop back it was that bad.

Purchased a Formula disk … and miracle cure. Calipers showed a 0.5mm difference in thickness which I figure was the issue (correct me if I’m wrong) Its that or contaminant on the Avid disk.

Is it both ends ? If not try swapping parts front to back to isolate if its the Pads or the disk. If its the disk try some brake cleaner, if its the pads you could try a light sand, or simply replace.

@nsbikescore1 Highly recommend going to see Brian Simpson http://www.physioclinic.net for recovery treatment. I broke my left collarbone right in the centre. 1 inch displacement without shards in August last year. A&E did simple sling and drugs. Broke it on the saturday then went down to Doc Simpson on the Wednesday, had both Laser and Magnetic Pulse in same sitting and also had a Cross Brace fitted by him. Most uncomfortable thing on the planet to wear but pulled the bones into alignment, and was starting to knit within three weeks. Also apply as much Comfreys (known as bone knit) on your shoulder as you can !!!! Now very little side effects bar camelback straps after long days. Best advice … don’t rush the recovery.

Regards A&E’s, visited Cannock Chase last week for first time and noticed every marker post had Nearest A&E details, plus grid reference on them. Good approach.

I deal with Hitachi Capital Finance through my own business (they are the largest retail lender now the Lloyds TSB have stepped out) Most larger companies including DFS and Several bike chains also use them.

If someone is offering 0% finance through them they are paying a MINIMUM of 7.2% subsidy for a 12 month contract. As was previously posted the LBS gets the sale price, less the subsidy retained.

Further since March of 2011 there is a mandatory 14 day cooling off period on ALL finance agreements, you can walk away from it without any reason within that period. This means the LBS wont get paid for at least 3-4 weeks after you’ve signed up for the purchase assuming you get the bike on the spot.

Cash is king, any Store will give you discount if you offer cash / debit card at the time of purchase. Even a Credit card is only going to cost them 2-3% by comparison.

Go in with the knowledge of what they will lose by offering the 0% finance, ask them outright, if the salesperson doesn’t know make him find out or deal with someone who makes the decisions and get them to take it off the top line. Cash flow is probably the most difficult area for any business in this climate, and them knowing the cash is in the bank (or in the petty cash tin out the back) is worth a lot !

Caveat … vendors have to be very careful of being seen to offer discount for cash. By doing so as an example they are saying “we will give you 0% finance or 15% discount for cash” which equates to “we will charge 15% extra for 0% finance” which then makes the 0% finance … not 0%. Highly illegal under the Consumer Credit Act.

As for the premise of putting money in the bank and using the 0% option, given the current interest rates, offset by the loss to PAYE (of course you declare your interest earnings don’t you) its going to be considerably less than 7% that the store will lose by signing you up … you both benefit.

Some stores (Mainly Franchised) are bound to a price point by their suppliers, if this is the case then look for upgrades or additional items. Wether its a long term servicing agreement, spares or upgrades at the point of purchase. They will chase your bundle of cash with these !!!