https://www.brothercycles.com/shop/accessories/big-bro-thru-axle/

Cheap. maybe a couple mm long…

Crowdsourcing ignorance – who knew!

I think using the extra spacers (say using all the spacers on a 73mm BB eg) would likely mean that the crank axle would not engage properly on the other side (nds for shimano crank). It would appear too short.

Thanks for the pointers.

Just had a look at spokes from ryan – seems fair price-wise but still quite a bit more than the Germans were :(.

I’m really enjoying a pair of vittoria Gomas in 2.4″. Got them cheap from planetx and I think they still have some. I’ve been really surprised by how close they are speed-wise to the barzo/mezcal combo they replaced with much more confidence (esp over the mezcal).

A current colleague used to work at Hewitt’s….I will quiz him in the morning.

Cheers.

https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-one-v-guard-evolution-road-folding-tyre-700c-100494.html

tanwall in 25mm.

Some lovely shots there Mr S.

I’m sure some of you guys inspired this purchase – I have been trawling STW for Sanderson refences and everyone who had one seems to enjoy the easy-going but versatile proper XC nature of Life/Breath/TC, so I took the plunge and couldn’t be happier.

2020-07-19_03-00-13 by Michael Milne[/url], on Flickr

20200719_142711-1 by Michael Milne[/url], on Flickr

20200719_142536-1 by Michael Milne[/url], on Flickr

Sorry aboout the rubbish posts – just finding out how to use BBcodes

I had mine plated because I was concerned about losing strength or possibly causing back problems later in life through asymmetry. I had to be very insistent with the doctor – he was completely open about feeling that it was fine for me to lose strength in my shoulder because ‘you’re not an athlete’. Surgery was three weeks after accident (or possibly closer to 4… can’t remember). I was road riding 12 weeks after crash (daily commute 15 miles each way). Possibly could have ridden sooner but didn’t want to risk it or prolong the period before I could be back at ‘commuter power’.

I’ve heard stories from a few people where the displacement caused the bone to take ages to fuse properly, in some cases leading to repeat breaks long after they thought the bone should have knitted.

I possibly would have been fine leaving it – it was a fairly clean break about 1″ displaced. The surgery left a small area of my chest numb which felt weird at first but has not been debilitating in any way. My arm goes ‘dead’ more quickly now if I am not moving it (eg when driving/cycling/motorcycling) and I have to wiggle it about to restore circulation. For a couple of years it used to swell a little if I wore a rucksack with the strap right over the metal plate; that seems to not happen any more though.

Pros and cons. On balance I am glad I had it done, but there are definitely risks either way.

13thfloormonk, supertype is a PITA to fit a saddle tbh but I love it. I put the additional comfort over other posts down to the fact that my bike has only 100mm exposed. Not enough to let the carbon post do its thing maybe, but that is where all the machining is on the miche.

I wrote an essay on the problems in my review on wiggle.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-supertype-seat-post

I have the sks one with a swivel head and both presta and schraeder. Easy to use and compact. When I take it off and put it back on it has lost 0.1psi.

Seatposts.

I built up a obsidian invictus (velocite selene) “fast bike for fat lads” I think was the tagline so intentionally quite a stiff frame.

The seattube is 31.6mm but I initially set it up with a shim and the 27.2mm selcof carbon seatpost mentioned above (think I paid £40). It was super light but not too comfy.

I replaced the post with a miche supertype alloy post (27.2mm) and found that much, much better. The ride went from tooth-jangling to really-quite-good.

At the same time I changed the handlebar from a carbon bar with a 31.8mm clamp to a nitto alloy bar with 26mm clamp and also saw improvement on the front end – I obviously mustn’t ride hard enough to notice the detriment to stiffness…

I’ve currently got a medium parkwood 29er that is going to donate parts. That seems to tally very closely with 19″ but I don’t really know enough to know if I want to change anything…

5’9″ (on a good day) and ride a 56cm attain disc. I find the size perfect with a 90mm stemm and 20mm set back post.

I would suggest that 14mm difference in reach is not insignificant, particularly if coupled with difference stem/bar(reach can vary a lot from bar to bar)/seatpost offset and saddle position.

Congrats Rampage Randy. Good choice.

I had the frameset built up with half-decent parts. I found the ride poor and the power transfer also poor. It’s very versatile in terms of tyres and accessory compatibility. Fine (ish) for sitting and spinning. As soon as I tried to put meaningful torque through the crank it seemed like the pedalling efficiency went through the floor. My current cube attain disc (also pretty low budget) kicks it in the pants. Much faster and livelier. Rewards effort way more. Rides crap roads much smoother despite being more limited on tyre size. Feels less harsh on rubino 25s than the LR on voyager hyper 35s.

philjunior

Member
……
With a tyre, though, is there likely to be much difference between lateral grip and traction? (I get the pedantry, but…)

When the rubber meets the road, it depends how much effort you want to put in.

I wonder why he is so concerned to repeatedly mention it. Surely if even some of your components are out of ‘the catalogue’ then novatec is as good anyone and better than many. Is he just being frank or is there an element of snobbery?

Edit: Or are all novatec free hubs slow to engage?

+1 for roger musson. I made a variation on his design. Much more enjoyable than using the frame or fork. You don’t need any measuring tools. Just references for wobble and hop and a dishing tool.

And a small toffee hammer to strike spokes to listen for even tension.

Dt swiss components:

350 hubs and r460 rims (eg from r2-bikes.com)

Spokes and nipples from rosebikes. Probably competition double butted. Silver to save money. Brass nipples.

Use dt swiss spoke calculator for spoke lengths.

Assemble the wheel yourself and take to a shop for final true and tension.

Components will about use your budget. Shop help may tip it over but they will be awesomes.

Stickers can be removed.

I think the reba can be opened up to 120mm for free by removing internal spacers. Others will know better than me. I think not recommended if it’s qr but fine for 15mm maxle.

And what axle standard rear wheel?

Which fork? Can the travel be increased? That would open up more options…

Rubber_Buccaneer

Subscriber
93% of 1X deniers still believe the earth is flat

Naw. It’s got hills and that, innit.

Also, this is a thread for opinions. Statistics and opinions are different things until we are talking politics…

Additionally: MBUK officially became not worth reading at the same time as the adverts for “fear of a flat planet” tee shirts disappeared.

Nobeerinthefridge

Member
……..

Lol, trying to take the climbing moral high ground cos you have more gears!

Not really. I ride slx 1×11 on my rigid because:

1x is for fashionistas

1x drive trains are only for those too lazy to set up a front mech, who don’t ride up hills (proper ones), smugly feel that weight-saving outweighs usefulness, don’t care about chain line or who blindly whatever latest trend is being pimped by Big Bike.

Exceptions are 1×1, 1×2(flip-flop) and the hub geared who are all awesome obviously.

Cue ‘Cheapest Carbon vs Nice Aluminium’ debate.

I wouldn’t go for a cheap planet X carbon. That’s based on the ride/design quality of their cheap alu and steel framesets. Personally I’d buy aluminium (and have…) or pay more and get possibly get carbon. Which begs the question – what is cheap? Or to put it another way – how good do you want the bike to be?

Apologies if I am missing the point here but be sure to have the shifters and mech synced to the same gear when fitting the cable. Top gear (smallest cog) being easiest because this will give a little slack in the cable.

You shouldn’t need to touch the screws unless you have change the cassette. Just the cable.

OTOH – buy a brooks! Probably a Team Pro or a Swift.

Cons:
Big.
Heavy.

Pros:
The last word in comfort.
Looks fantastic.
Lets the people know you know what time is it!

And specialized will measure your arse:

https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/store-finder

“Widths for Every Body Type
All of our saddles come in multiple widths and various shapes that match your anatomy to ensure total comfort and support. Don’t know what width is right for you? Any Specialized retailer can measure your sit bones and recommend the correct width.”

I’ve never used them, but I seem to remember reading positive testimonials.

I’ve got DMR V8s on one bike and cheaper BBB BPD32 pedals on another. I don’t notice any difference between the two when riding and the BBB seem decent quality to me.

I like to be able to dab a foot, or to not have to clip in if setting off uphill (after failing to clean a climb). I have recently purchased some 5-10 freeriders and noticed a massive improvement in security.

I use an XLC 27.2 dropper from one of the german sites (can’t remember if it was rose bikes, bike discount or bike24). Lever under the saddle. No problems so far. Finish feels nicer than expected.

Just checked my order history and it was this:

https://r2-bike.com/XLC-Sattelstuetze-Vario-SP-T09-272-mm-100-mm-Hub-50-95-kg

98euro

Ahhh yes. Should have specified 29″. Thanks for the info.

I believe Hunt have a good reputation for back up but dt spares are always readily available.

I would be asking the Polish crew if they can send a selection of spare spokes. Straight pull are not difficult to get, but maybe a little thinner on the ground than j bend. Also ask them to tell you what size spokes they used to help if you need spares in the future.

I run dt hubs and love them. I also know that spares will be available for many moons to come. I may be wrong but I think Hunt use novatech hubs. I’ve no idea what they are like to source spares for…

Flats.

Someone had to say it.

Sounds like a worn chain to me. Have you measured the length over a number of links to compare? Each link should be 1/2″. Park tools recommends replacing at 0.5% elongation. At ten links this would mean 133mm instead of 127mm.

The tyres on all my bikes are pneumatic. This does not negate the difference in stiffness/compliance or damping/harshness of the rigid components equipped such as handlebars, seatposts, hardtail frames and rigid forks.

Applying the tape: I find stretching taut and ‘walking’ into the well helps – sort of wiggle left to right (a bit like moving a washing machine) with a thumb press into the well in between changes of direction.

Another vote for cube attain sl disc. I have one and it’s super comfy. Cubes own ‘cubeguard’ mudguards are light and stable. Not as fast as my ‘fast’ alu bike but it’s no slug. If I could only have one road bike it would HAVE to have guards and discs. My only real gripe with rim brakes is wear/replacement on rim. But it’s a big gripe!