Took my lad for his first trip to Afan, great day doing W2 in the Sunshine! 🙂

robinlaidlaw – Member

^^^ This man speaks the truth!

My son’s bike is still running my first set of disc brakes – Hope C2’s. Never had anything other than fresh fluid, they must be 10+ years old now.

Never had a failure with any of my others either, E4’s, M4’s Tech M4’s.

I’m looking at this too.

There seem to be two main options, the Suunto Ambit or the Garmin Fenix. Both have very similar spec’s and neither are cheap, nor do they really have good battery life in GPS mode.

Ah, that must be why there are so few motorbike accidents then.

I wasn’t aware they were all caused by blokes doing 130mph.. you’d have thought they’d write more about that…

They are mostly caused by car/van/lorry drivers not paying attention/seeing the other (two wheeled) road users and pulling out on them

So you’re better able to avoid things, that’s great. So why speed up then to make it more difficult again?

Mol, do you ride (a) a fully rigid bike with canti’s or (b)something newer with better brakes and some suspension that enable you to cover difficult terrain more easily and stop quicker?

If (b), do you still ride over the same terrain at the same speed as you would on (a) – or do you go slightly quicker and ride slightly more challenging terrain, to make it more difficult (enjoyable) again?

Obviously not, that’s not what we’re saying. You’re extrapolating something ridiculous to try and argue against. Reductio ad absurdum.

I’ve had 0 road accidents in 20 years of driving. However, I’ve had some near misses caused by a) being inattentive, b) messing about and c) being impatient and wanting to go fast.

The c) miss was potentially by far the worst. I’d have been killed.

So by your own admission every ‘near miss’ you’ve had has been caused by inattentiveness and not assesing the road situation correctly and adjusting your speed to suit. NOT CAUSED BY EXCEEDIING THE SPEED LIMIT! 😉

What about if there is a car coming the other way?

What about if you are passing a junction?

Again all part of the continious assesment you should be doing whether you’re traveling above or below the speed limit!

molgrips – Member

100% correct, good driving is about assesing the road and the conditions

Much of it is un-assessable though. You could be a driving god, you can’t however see what’s coming around the next corner or predict what idiot drivers will do next.

Mol have you done a IAM course? This is exactly what it’s about, if you can’t see round the next corner, you adjust your speed.

Lifer – Member

michaelbowden – Member
JUST becuse you exceed the speed limit on a given stretch of road does not inherently make you dangerous. Yes if you get caught you need to accept it and take the consiquences

But it is more dangerous than if you were driving slower.

Absolutely. There’s very little in life that doesn’t involve you making a risk assesment! 🙂

Speed “limit” does not mean “drive at that speed all the time”.

So, he may have not been “speeding” per se (from a legal perspective), but he was “going too fast for that section of road in those conditions”

100% correct, good driving is about assesing the road and the conditions. Which is why there are times it is not safe to drive at the speed limit and times when it is safe to drive over the speed limit.

JUST becuse you exceed the speed limit on a given stretch of road does not inherently make you dangerous. Yes if you get caught you need to accept it and take the consiquences

This is a forum which regularly sees huge swathes of cyclists insist that jumping a red light, when done with care, is safe. I’d like to see the venn diagram of those who defend “RLJ”-ing and those who condemn speeding.

This^^^^^^

2,000 dead people every year on the roads.
Over 5 people every single day…
Don’t see the point of joining them or contributing to it by speeding…

I’d be interested in how many of those deaths were actually caused by exceeding the speed limit, rather than an inattentive/careless driver/pedestrian/cyclist?

In the 23 years I’ve been driving, every accident that has involved someone I know or an accident I have heard of, only one has been directly caused by the spped the person was doing. He was going too fast and couldn’t stop when something pulled out infront of him. So he was going too fast for the circumstances. BUT he was under the speed limit. It was a national speed limit – it has since been lowered to a 40.

Every other one has been caused by one of the parties involved not paying full attention to the job of driving.

Great news, hope you enjoy the car.

There are people on ebay who will reapir the SID/ACC if it starts to be a problem.

Most people seem to charge about £200 if they do a sump drop and fit the lastest breather kit. If it’s still got the original hoses they definately need to be replaced. I think the kit is about £65. Parts for Saab and Neo Brothers (also on ebay) are good suppliers.

So Woody, what did you decide????

NOT a football fan, but as a sportsman his dedication and professionalism are something to be admired. To look after your body carefully enough to compete at the highest level of your sport for 20+ years is incredible.

Hi

If the Aero has been as well looked after it would be worth comparing.You’ll get the extra toy’s and performance etc At 140k it’s going to start to need suspension components – lower arms bushes, rear rose joints, shocks etc if not already done.

Proper oil changes will be all the more important, fuel consumption will not be as good

Edit I see it’s now sold.

Lord Summerisle, it’s sounds like you’re an enthusiast. Are you on any of the Saab forums?

My Aero is stage 3, so that’s a 3 inch down pipe and a 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator – this gives 285BHP and 440Nm from 2000-5000rpm all for about £500 if you do it DIY.

If I add a larger intercooler that can rise to 295BHP/450Nm but at that point the turbo starts to run out of puff, as does the standard fuel pump and injectors.

If I was to go further it would be expensive, intercooler, bigger turbo, bigger injectors, higher flow rate fuel pump,stronger clutch and to go over 330BHP forged pistons, this could see the car easily at 400BHP/500Nm. BUT you really start to loose the drivability and start to get back to 1980’s levels of turbo lag. Oh and gearboxes that don’t last too long………

For the past year I have been relearning how to carry speed and fully utilise a gear in a car with only 65hp.

Later this year I’m going to at least triple that power in a different car..

I used to work for that manufacturer too….

Goodluck! 🙂

Re – remapping – I would say that the Aero models have bigger brakes for a very good reason, and they will not fit inside the 16″ wheels on that one you are looking at (can be retro-fitted) The standard brakes are marginal .
The 4 speed auto cannot handle as much power as the 5 speed .

Correct correct and correct 🙂

From memory and I may well be wrong, the 2.3T (220 BHP) cars didn’t have the bigger brakes – maybe the auto’s did 😕 . Still it is not a difficult mod, new disc’s, new/secondhand caliper mounts and yes you’d need the 17″ wheels.

Common sense really. Not everyone seeks power for powers-sake but why would you need so much power and… tuning the engine of a decade-old car can open a can of worms.

Yes, yes and yes, it all depends on what you’re starting with and what you want.

Would I take an already stressed engine, tune it beyond manufacturers specification and expect it to be reliable? No.

Another example, a 2 year old 40,000 mile Mecedes C63 AMG, has what 500BHP odd to start with. But I know of one that has been tuned to close to 600BHP by a known Mercedes tuning house. The owner is now faced with a £45,000 bill from his Mercedes dealer for just a replacement engine.

I wouldn’t remap an old car. I’d rather spend the money on fresh oil and keeping it on the road/healthy.

I guess it depends what you want from a car. Any car needs fresh oil regularly – I do mine every 5000 miles I always have on every car I’ve owned. The thing with these Saabs is that the only mechanical difference between the 185BHP lpt SE engine and the 250BHP HOT Aero engine is the size of the injectors and turbo. So you are not stressing the car beyond it’s limits at all.

As an example there is a 9000 Aero local to me (engine is almost identical to the 9-5 one), that has been extensively tuned. It’s has been runnig over 500BHP (it was 225 when new) for the last 70,000 miles. Its gets used for everything from commuting to 3 or 4 track day’s a year.

It now has 185,000 miles on the clock, the engine block and head hasn’t been touched other than higher lift camshafts and stonger valve spring to increase its maximum revs.

Yes he changes the oil every 3000miles and has spent a lot of money on the engine ancillary’s, gearbox, brakes and suspension – but the engine block is all but standard.

Hi Woody

If you go to one of the big company’s £300-£400 like Map Tun who The Saab Centre are dealers for. But once you get yourself on UKSAABS there’s a few guys who do it in his free time. One I am very happy to reccomend and he will do it for under £150. He is very reilable and offers a great service, he’ll even post you a replacement ECU for you to fit all ready programmed.

Basicaly there is quite a big ‘european scene’ for tuning saabs (including using the engines in other cars) Someone got hold of the original SAAB software for writing the engine maps and this has been shared around the community and developed for the last 15 years or so.

So you can have anything from taking an lpt(185 bhp) to full pressure (220bhp) using an original saab map so comletely safe to something bespoke depending on the hardwear modifications you have had done.

2005 Aero Estate owner and ex Saab mechanic and Saab GB enployee here.

As said above, 90K is nothing if is been looked after, check for timing chain rattle from cold. Lord Summerisle speaks a lot od sense.

Get the sump dropped, cleaned and the latest breather kit fitted unless you have a receipr for this. It could be the cheapest £200 you ever spend. There was a problem with the crankcase breather system hoses degrading with time, blocking the oil pickup, this is made worse if semi-synthectic oil was used during servicin. This caused oil starvation and bigend/main bearing failure.

On the lpt (light pressure turbo) you won’t feel the turbo really, if the 185 BHP feels slow a simple remap will see you at 220ish BHP, 2.3T spec. Replacing the turbo and injectors for the Aero type and standard Aero software will get you to and beyond Aero spec. But these cars are about mid range torque not BHP. My Aero with a couple of simple hardwear mod is running 285 BHP with 440Nm of torque from 2000rpm.

Get yourself on to UKSAABS forum, it’s a STW for the Saab world

Parts aren’t an issue,

Any questions my email is in my profile

Should have by now, assuming the email in your profile is correct?

YGM

Thank you!!!

Liking the workmanship there Woody 🙂

meesterbond – Member

get proper penetrating fluid, not wd40 or 3 in 1.

Like what?

PlusGas if you can stil get it, then having left it to soak, liberal use of a proper sized hammer around the lock (without damaging it) to shake the lock compnents free from each other

Hi Ton

I’ve been using it for about a month or so. For bought produce it’s great and you can check its accuracy against the packet. It is a bit of a faff and involves some guestimation when cooking from scratch.

It’s working for me (4 kilos in 4 weeks), mainly I think because it highlights the bad nibbles and picky food I tend to eat after a glass of vino or two.

But in those 4 weeks I’ve only been over the daily calorie intake once, on my birthday when I went out for a chinese. It’s taking quite a bit of self control!

I’ve ordered one, I’ll post my thoughts when I’ve had it a while (if anyone’s intrested!)

Yes please

The cadence sensor, HRM and wheel speed. They do the P model but call it the F and it’s £125. This comes with the 3 sensors.

The other thing missing from the B model is the compass according to the Globalsat site.

580P

The expansys one seems to be the 580B model not the ‘P’

The B model accoding to the Globalsat site doesn’t have ANT+

580B

I like that. If I may, where do you buy it from?

Currently 7, none of them very expensive, most purchased secondhand. Seikos are fantastic value, I’ve and orange monster and a yellow kinetic. Not sure on tuna’s, I like the spork. Yobokies does a lovely white monster mod that i really fancy….

im not by any means staying go crazy but there are limits as to what the body can take and if you dont feed it it will start being reluctant to give up its stored energy.

The MFP site gives you a warning that if you eat too few calories you risk your body going into ‘starvation mode’ where it will try to store everything as fat to protect itself

I’ve been using myfitnesspal, and it’s been quite usefull to show that in general my meals are quiet healty, ballanced and well with in correct calorie bounds. BUT wine and post wine snacking has horrible consiquences………..!!

I’m 4 weeks in and 4 kilos down 🙂

Not singing, but the actress Claudia Black in Farscape has a voice that does funny things to my nether regions!

Mmmmmmmm 😳

ti_pin_man – Member
you were lucky. My alu steerer tube snapped 100mm up from the fork crown within the headtube, I have a false tooth and about 48 stitches because of this, about 25 inside my mouth and the rest on my face. Plus a hatred of a certain fork manufacturer.

^^^^^^ OUCH!

I have with M985’s which should be the same I think.

Mine’s less of a back to the 80’s and more of a something from most of the last 4 decades.

1973 ish Celestion Ditton 44’s
1988 Ruark Sabre’s
2000 Nad C270
1997 Rega Mira
1998 Marantz CD67OSE
2006ish Cambridge Audio Azure DAB
2011 Aram IDock

I reverse bled my M985’s, I found it much easier than pumping it through using the lever.