think its very important here to differentiate between reputable manufacturers in the east which produce for well known western brands (and their own non branded items) and other companies which produce knock offs.

Fairy Nuff. If they’re coming out of different factories than the well regarded ones, then it’s reasonable to put a ? over them.

Nope but I’m booked with them in July after reading Chipps review.

So if it’s been to a Seat dealer and VAG specialist they should have the VAG diag tool so they will be able to do the checks I suggested.

I don’t care what he buy’s or rides.

Can someone explain to me though why a frame that is circa £400 with no stickers on is fine to ride and race without worrying about its strength/build quality. BUT one that has stickers is going to collapse and KILL all the small children in the world??

Is there something in the glue that makes these manufacturers suddenly forget how to layup carbonfibre? Or is it the cost of the stickers that means they have to take (further)shortcuts to meet the target price?

So at 115k the DPF was probably due to be replaced anyway?

Can you see the Pressure Differential reading in the diagnostic tool?

If so, disconnect the sensor from the exhaust, that way it will see atmospheric pressire on both sides. The ECU should the give a differential pressure of zero. If is giving a reading of greater than zero there is either a wiring fault of the ecu is faulty.

If it gives zero when disconnected but a +ve Dif pressure reading when connected up to the exhaust then the DFP is blocking/has a higher resistance than than it should have.

With a freshly regenerated brand new DPF the Dif pressure reading should be almost zero. If it’s not I’d guess the new DFP is faulty/not to VAG spec and this is the cause of your problem.

I would imagine it will have two sensors, before and after the dfp – unless the ECU calculates the before pressure. If two, which was replaced?

Is this the same fault that the DPF was replaced? What’s the mileage?

I assume the VAG system uses some form of ‘special’ fluid to enable regeneration. This is normally injected in to the fuel/exhaust – is this system working properly/ Without it the car will not me able to regenerate normally

I have had loads of problems with aftermarkets CATs in the past, I see no reason why the same shouldn’t be for DPF’s.

If the car is seeing the DFP as blocked there’s three possibles,

1. it’s blocked
2. the pressure sensor(s) is(are) faulty so the ecu thinks it’s blocked
3. the ecu is knackered

If the aftermarket DFP is too restrictive/poor quality/not doing its job right, the pressure differential reading across it may well be high enough for it to trigger a blocked fault.

If all of the above is OK and the DPF is actually blocking then you have a fueling problem

Your reader should pull everything you need. The Aa will have something more complicated but will probably just give more detail.

If it has cam and crank it should pick up if the timing belt has moved, so hopefully you’re OK on that front.

Ah, CPS for me was always crank position sensor!

So are the plugs not getting wet now? After you’ve been cranking does it smell petroley (not a real word) from the exhaust? Have you checked cam timing or just assuming it’s OK?

Does this mangement system have a cam position sensor as well as a CPS? If it does and you have no faults I would assume the belt hasn’t jumped at all.

Fingers crossed you just flooded it

Have you filled up recently??? Are you sure you put petrol in??
If CPS has failed you are very unlikely to get a spark or fuel. I dont know VAG systems very well. Does the revcounter normally register when cranking? Is it now?

You could be flooding the engine if it thinks it is feezing cold and over fueling. Is it definately petrol on the plugs??? Remove all the plugs, burn them dry in the gas hob or something.
Remove fuel pump fuse and spin the engine over with the plus removed, are you getting much fuel out of the plug holes?? Leave for 15 mins or so to allow excess fuel to evaporate.
Refit plugs (don’t refit fuel pump fuse) crank over. Does it cough/try to start?? Recheck plugs – are they stil dry? If yes refit again, refit fuse and crank for a normal starting period, if it doesn’t even want to try to start check plugs again. If they are wet again then you are massively over fuelling, poss temp sensor.

If you have spark at the right time and and fuel of the right type/quantity then you have a mechanical problem. Are you sure the belt hasn’t jumped a tooth or two giving poor compression?

Ronnie O’Sullivan used to have CUE 80Y

I’ve seen the PEN1S on an old XJS convertibe, that must have been 1990ish

I’ve bought some new speakers if that helps fill the Hi-Fi gap? 😳

Looks like he’s dropped over a minute

Double post!

More importantly, which one died first?

Got the Twin Webber Manifold for my SAAB 99, not got the Twin 40s to sit on it yet.
MPG with the stock Zenith 750CD is bad enough…

Not really worried by the MPG though are you! Is that a H engined 99 or a late model B20?

SBH, I had a twin SU set up on a spitfire that I could happily fiddle with all day…and still the bastard things would never be “just so”

Trouble with SU’s is normally needle or needle jet wear which makes ballancing and tuning them a pain in the ‘arris. Oh that and having the wrong viscosity oil in the damper.

TA Specialties do them I think.

Can only comment on the Saab

1.9 is not a Lemon, it’s the same engine as in the Alfa. They have EGR and DPF issues but the so do all modern diesels is used for short journies. 1.9 is a much more refined engine that the breathed on Vaux engine.

I never got 45mpg out of my 2.2 but I’m quite heavy footed

Yes a Boardman

Get some third party legal advise. Use you house insurance cover if you have it.

I’ve a mate who had just gone from the Bryton to a Garmin 800 and wishes he’d never spent the money in the Bryton

Is this a case of the number of sheds/outbuildings required = N+1 ?????

I run M985 with the Saint M820 calipers just fine.

Talkytoaster does mapping for other countries too, you just need to email him.

Now how do I explain needing this one…….?

Plus it’s very handy when you stop for a rest. I routinely drop mine to make sitting while stationary more comfortable.

It’s not just me then :o)

Hi

Yes still in contact with Marko, Pete Newell, Chris Burness, Kev Smith, Tim Ellis etc

Small world!

Yeah I got out with some money and found a new job pretty quickly, so it worked out OK thanks

Are you the CT @ Manchester South? I was in the old Tech Support before it moved to Cov 5 odd years ago.

Hi Chris

I hope ia all goes well with your dealer. I’m personally glad I didn’t make to move to Coventry, I had 10 good years @ Slough.

footflaps – Member

Pretty sure that’s the same engine as in the BMW Minis, it’s a joint BMW / Citroen / Peugeot development.

The 1.6 diesel is a PSA engine which BMW use. The 1.6 Petrol engine is a BMW engine that PSA use.

I assume you’ve tried Pace? Try Fork English – Tim Price, he used to be Pace’s warranty tech and set up on his own doing older forks when Pace sold out to DT.

His number was 01751 476815

Hora, it’s not something I’ve looked in to. It might be worth looking at the Toyota forums as it is their engine.

As siad though it’s a NA engine and you’re not going to get much out of it without significant expense.

Hora, it depends if you are going to keep it beyond the warranty. If not service as per schedule BUT don’t be late.

If you’re going to keep it longer than the warranty change to oil more frequently. Maybe 6k is excessive, it’s just what I’ve always done on my own cars since being an apprentice.

Every 6k is prohibitive though-having to remember etc etc. Better to get a more basic diesel lump as a trade off if a mistake can lead to completely wiping out any mpg savings

How many miles a year do you do? I don’t see a £50 oil change every 6 months as prohibative?

Also check other manufactrers oil change schedules, there are a lots that are lower than 12.5k on diesel engines or have a far larger oil capacity to cope.

Hmmm should I get the 2.0HDI Mikebowden?

Hora, the 1.6 is a great engine it really is, I’ve seen it give over 50MPG dragging a C5 estate around and close to 70mpg in smaller cars. Just change the oil and filter every 6k and use good (read expensive) fully synthetic oil.

chrisdiesel

Chris do you work in the network???

I convinced that the long service intervals were introduced due to the pressures of fleet owners trying to reduce costs.

^^ I can assure you this is fact.

There’s no inherent problem with the engine as such, its a very ligjt weight high performing diesel, that give gives good power and fuel economy. BUT 1. 12.5k service intervals is too long (in my experience) 2. Yes it needs a high grade fully synthetic oil.

Check your service receipts, your dealer should have used a fully synthetic oil that meets the PSA standards (which are quite strict, see your service book) such as the reccomended ‘Total 9000’ if they haven’t you may have a claim against them. But it will probably require a legal fight.

I used to work for Citroen UK.

This isn’t meant to sound harsh, but this IS how Citroen UK warranty will look at it.

It should have been serviced every 12.5k or 2 years. You’ve serviced it late, the failure of the turbo can easily be attributed to poor oil quality due to late servicing. Therefore it’s not a manufacturing defect so not warranty.

FYI the engine will most probably be scrap too, the oil way’s will be clogged with burnt/old oil/sludge. This is normally the cause of the turbo failure – poor oil flow.

There is a procedure to repeatedly flush the engine to try to clear the sludge. It’s a circa 10 hour job on top of the turbo replacement. If you replace the turbo without having this done, at very best you have a 50% chance of the turbo lasting more than 3k miles.

Again sorry if this sounds blunt just trying to give you the ugly truth.

Mike