Glenmore was terrible last Friday night when pitching my tent but no bother at any other time over the weekend.

^^ is correct. I think it gets a bit odd when you start looking at bikes with lots of travel as you would think the bottom bracket should be high to prevent you bouncing the cranks when at the ends of the travel… but how often are you pedalling when bouncing off the stops… not a lot.

Higher bottom brackets make bikes feel more nervous in rock gardens and steep descents where lower is better, but if lower watch out for those pedal to rock/stump events. Tyres and suspension set up can also make a difference – and manufacturer listing are as reliable as on old MG Metro.

I've got some black Reba SL 120mm with Maxle Lite which came on my Whyte 19 trail Steel 4 months ago.

Excellent barely used condition and I figure worth about £300, these don't seem to be available on the open market through Merlin etc, so I guess they are OEM only. They are a nice lightweight 120mm travel fork… reason for change is that I have another fork on another bike and I am moving things about. Frame is medium so probably about 200mm of steerer… but I can check.

email in profile for pics and a haggle.

I'm tempted but I must resist… I shoud never buy a Mk1 of anything… it always ends in warranty 8O

Square taper is not ideal for heavy use. The axles break and bend easier than Octo or isis. Not the best for hardcore use. Un52 last 6 months or so, not great. If you buy a mega bottom bracket like a Phil etc think about if you can take it to your next frame. The modern solution is better in my opinion, for the price of the middleburn and a decent bottom bracket you could almost have xtr.

I also found the shape of the crankarm scrubbed my shoes worse than other cranks and there was definitely more flex… I sold mine on.

BETD/Goldtec DH Chainrings were £15 + postage when I last looked.

That Brodie above looks lovely.

What is the headtube size on it? Can it take a tapered or 1.5 steerer with one of the new cane-creek headsets?

Whyte would be dreadful with 150mm fork imho.

Can't think of any tapered and/or 12mm/142mm etc. Try suggesting at kingdom bike project… maybe they will build one for you.

I like the mole review… basically any light with this kind of power is going to blow your mind on the trails.
I like my four4th… but only have 8 year old lumi's to compare… and there is no comparison.
Two modes is fine on a helmet light as you don't want to reach up and fiddle often. Low mode is good enough most of the time, high is for singletrack… job done.

I've had one non ust big bettie blow off the rim a few times now. Once in the car when in the sun. The need looks a little damaged which would explain it.

A few old rules…

Cannondale – the joke always used to be that they looked good on the top of your BMW as you drove around the town centre with your shades on trying to look cool. The owners never actually rode them so how they handled was unimportant… the only thing that has changes these days is they are now on the roof of Audi's (BMW man's new car of choice :) )

Specialized – the Siera/Mondeo of the MTB world – this monicer moved onto Santa Cruz a few years back and is currently turning orange.

Marin – for people with beards who speak as if they have blocked noses and know all the specs of all the bikes – beardy brochure whores or do more MTB magazine study than riding.

Bend your elbows down and kiss your stem for techy climbing with a short stem – once your used to the new position you'll wonder what the hell you where doing with that huge great thing you used to have.

Don't be tempted to move the saddle back or fit a layback post either – all these do is move the weight distribution further back and make it even more wheelytastic.

Either persevere and reap the benefits or stick you head back in the sand :)

Perhaps where you ride is not gnar(tm) enough to require this kind of equipment in which case perhaps an ordinary more XC setup is what you require?

Doh!

BETD axle just replaces the Maxle (the quick release). You will still need to speak to Hope nicely and get a new axle for the hub.

When you get the broken Hope axle (not Maxle) out you will see that it will have broken where it is very thin and where there is a step between the hub body and the freehub body – obvious weak point.

The BETD option works for me and I've been hammering it for two months now with no problems – it's a very solid bar of aluminium rather than the hollow tube of the original Maxle.

Hope are releasing an Evo version of the Pro2 hub which I suspect will have a stronger axle… no idea if the axle and gubbins will be retrofitable but it would be nice if they were.

I'm happy with it. Not sure if it's quite as good as Rock-n-roll extreme for staying on and working… but it doesn't freeze the same or have the annoying plastic bottles which burst as soon as I look at them.

When going for huge rides I always bung a little nearly empty bottle in the pack for a re-lube because I dislike the squeeky chain noise… but I've not needed it with these two lubes :D

Liking my Big Betty on the front – not so hot on the back it has to be said.

As has been said – climbing is the real test, and where I live you have no choice but to test yourself every time you ride.

When I started out my nemesis was a local hill which really hurt to get up and in the middle was change in gradiant at a junction. I used to be able to ride up to the junction and nearly die. So I stoped at the juntion for a rest. After I while I could ride to the junction and then stay on the bike doing little circles until my breathing and heart rate dropped to a point at which I could continue. After a while I was able to ride up the whole thing (now I struggle to see what the fuss was). Challenge yourself and only expect small progress, but you have to keep it up… two weeks off the bike and I feel rubbish the first time out… so I don't expect miracles on this ride… next time out will be back to business. If I've been off the bike a while I try to get a ride in on my own before I join the gang – saves frustration and blowing out my hoop.

Pace yourself as has also been said.

Another way to pace a climb is to go side by side with someone and chat… if you can barely hold a conversation then your working at a good pace that you should be able to sustain.

Singlespeed is a good way to improve your mental strength as long as you already are physically strong, since you have no choice but to attack a climb – in the saddle or out… which to choose

I used to run heavy bikes… the novelty wore off.

The Nicolai Nucleon I’ve been riding for the last 6 years was 44 lbs – and I rode that thing everywhere. My hardcore Balfa Minuteman hardtail was 35 lbs and again I rode this everywhere. I also run a 1995 Kona Explosif Singlespeed which is 20lbs.

For this year I changed to a Whyte 19 steel at 26 lbs and a Nicolai Helius AM at 33 lbs (I still have the Kona)

What do I notice from this… the Nicolai Helius AM is astonishing, everything the 45lbs Nukey could do the Helius does as good if not better. I’ve dropped huge time off some of my big loops and I am much happier to take this bike to where I used to take the Balfa (ie. places not worth taking the 45lbs monster). Instead of being at the back of the group I am back up the front where I belong :twisted:

The Whyte is not a patch on the Balfa and is not really a hardcore hardtail at all… but it was never meant to be… the Helius was to replace the Balfa and the WHyte was for XC and exploring.

The 20lbs Kona is still a hoot but I would not take it where I take the other bikes (well… sometimes I do when I feel suicidal :evil:).

I love the Helius AM but may not run it for everything over the winter, so I will either rebuild the Balfa or replace with another hardcore hardtail… unsure if the Whyte is a keeper at the moment. Me and the Kona will never be parted unless I break it again and can’t repair it this time.

Heavy bikes are a hinderance… but they have a purpose… the real question is how long the Helius and the Whyte will last with me… no frames have lasted as long under me as the Nucleon and the Balfa but they are seriously over built bas&*ds.

I really like that – I guess the 44mm headtube thing gives all the functionality of all the other headset sizes without looking like having a mug stuck the front of your bike.

Bravo for Kilo message… Thanks Babe :wink:

The simple alloy C-style DU bushings you'll get from a bearing shop do not last as long as the O-style plastic jobbies you get from BETD.

Dude had style.

Seat angle becomes too steep so your no longer at the optimum position for pedaling efficiency.

Bearings needed some grease after a year but mine still felt smooth (then I flogged it).

I could mince with that. Granny climbing gear, middle work gear and overdrive for the road… other way to do it would be a three speed HammerSchmidt type thing without the AM/FR/DH bulk 8)

From my experience… with a regrease every 6 months or so.

XL2 = 1 to 2 years
MX = 2 to 3 years
Extreme and pro = 5+ years

Bottom bracket too high on the pig…

Yes, I have that mag and indeed it says that. It also says the bike is one for the consummate bike handler as it needs to be negotiated down stuff… I think that's the high bottom bracket working against the nice slack head angle… imho.
I loved it when I got it but over the months I've found a few things its not so good at… but I am pretty hard on bikes…

I read a heap of reviews of the various 19's and 901/905 etc but not the steel… perhaps it's different?

Ooops… I missed the winky :wink:

*slow hand clap*

… and now if anyone searches for any of those places up pops this thread.

*slow hand clap*

I really like my stock 19 steel… but it's not without issues.

Stock 120mm REBA SL on mine and I find the bottom bracket a tad high and the seat angle a bit slack… I really think this frame would suit a 100mm fork… which kind of misses the point of it's billing as a longish forked hardtail. The Reba's are also a bit noodly when pushed… which might just be an effect of my riding style.

I'm perhaps being a bit harsh as it's an epic XC/trail bike but when I've pushed it into use for the bigger terrain I ride it feels completely out of its depth. Lovely for the forest but not for the mountains.

In short – I would not put a longer fork than 120mm on it and I would want a stiffer fork than the Reba.

Oh – and after experimenting I've settled on the long wheelbase as best.

If you've got cable stops try Gore-Tex sealed, NOKON or TransFil Mudlovers which have an inner which goes all the way from lever to mech… or drill out your stops and fit solid outer.

For solid outers I tend to run the cheapest of whatever I can get – but these do tend to split after a while (as do XT from experience). I'd like to try the Goodridge ones and maybe I will next time round… but they are a bit spendy when I've no idea how long they will last (I've not seen any long term reviews… only the glowing look at me new bits ones).

Save them for the really bad conditions only, ie snow. At Glentress last August I was amazed to see folk in full Gore Tex riding from the car park… in August the rain is warm and skin is waterproof. MTFU.

FIRST LINE of thread

Scottish, 12+ years old if you please and sub £40.

….go!

So the following is a TFF

As already pointed out, the OP is asking specificly for Irish WhiskEy.

The spelling is a punter error… live and learn… it's why questions get asked and answered… no wonder this place gets a bad reputation for smug twa*s (even ones that struggle to spell… do you pronounce it "pacifically" by any chance) :mrgreen:

may need to push on some uphills but so what?

Quitter!

Ferns going brown, heather blooming purple, blae and snow berries ready to eat… but I am up north

Depends where you ride surely?

I have a HammerSchmckle on one bike and spend 90% of my time in the 1to1 which is a 22 tooth – the only times I put the "Hammer" down are for the DH and road bits… and for the DH it's to go to a bigger sprocket at the back to keep the chain tight. For my local forest I would be thinking keep with the 22… but my forest is made of silly steep slippery climbs and I'm a spinner so use the granny a lot. Your riding may be very different!

I like using the Loch Fyne Whisky website for tasting notes http://www.lfw.co.uk

Easy to use the search to find what you like or use the word "ace" which are the reccomendations, and generally hit the spot. Then drill in by price and region/taste.

On what's been said above –
Balvenie Double Wood is good for those starting out – quite sweet and christmas cakey… and a joy to revisit for the same reasons.
Aberlour, Glenfarclas, Glenlivet and Glenfiddich get better with age, anything above 15 is worth paying extra – younger versions of these not so great
Highland Park is a staple – lovely spicey pepperyness – a great dram that always goes down well
Talisker – for some reason I get a bile vibe off this but I still like it.
Jura I simply don't get until the older expressions
Laphroig/Ardbeg and the Islays (except Bruichladdich) – if you like peat they are great. Bruichladdich stands almost alone but doesn't really come of age until 15+ at which point it's great. The younger ones are okay but sell on the marketting and the name of the older expressions rather than their own merits (IMHO)
Mortlach and Longmorn are both awesome big speysiders
Dalwhinnie is smooth and lovely
Old Pulteney – a friend has one of these open and I love going to his house… I really should get my own. Lovely briney almost tastes of the sea.
Benromach Organic – this almost tastes like a Bourbon… in fact it does taste exactly like a bourbon. I like it but it's not really like any other single malt – a very tasty curiosity.