I’m going to give myself a day either side and head up towards the Grand Canyon and take in something around Sonoma or Flagstaff… it would be rude not to.

I went from 200/200 to 200/180 at the beginning of the year with no problems; and I’ve just gone to 180/160 on both my bikes. No down sides yet including some real big doonhalls. I’ve kept one 200 rotor and the adapters so I can go back up to 200/180 if I find I’m under braked… but I don’t expect to need them.

Saab Viggen… sleeper

How about a Saab 9.3 Coupe… Viggen or Hot?

I loved my Rado G60… easy get a normal bike in with only one wheel removed – slide passanger seat forward and bend it in. To fit 2plus2 both wheels will need to be off.

I went from this to an Audi S2 Avant… three bikes, three people… 140mph 😈 An Audi coupe S2 is a bit of pain because of how the boot opens and the upright spare wheel.

I’d also like a coupe that can fit my bike inside as I sometimes have to leave it parked on the street when I am at work.

If only…

Jitters and heart palpitating might be the downsides… enjoy!

Mmx clamp is great… it clamps to any bar. On one bike I run it left below the bar, on the other I run it right above the bar… both are brilliant.
Yes… it changes the way you ride for the better. I tried the older posts but was not convinced, the Reverb works so well it converted me… I love it.

Awesome clips 😀

I run flip/flop fixie/free with a v-brake. I try not to brake at all when riding it, Singletrack is fun… so don’t ditch the back brake as you might need it. No poser points here.

I really like my Push tuned Float as a super-light 90% solution, although it’s not as good as the Bos VIP’r I demo’d. I prefer both to the standard DHX4 Coil I had… I nearly Pushed it but bought a CCDB which is better than all the above options… but not by enough to justify it’s weight unless I am doing silly stuff; so most of the time it sits in a bag as for much of my riding the Float is good enough (and 250g vs 1000g it’s noticeable on the climbs).

I would like to try a Vivid Air or CCDB-Air… but at 500-600g I can’t help wondering if it will be markedly better than a 250g Float/VIP’r?

I guess the question is for double the weight of the Float will it close some or all of the performance gap to a coil?

I’d like to find out… email me when I can test it for you

Hotel is certainly nice and ‘McDowell Mountain Park’ looks pretty damn close. Not so sure about the temperature thing as living in the NE of Scotland the highest I ever see is about 17C 😆

I think 30C or 40C will cook my goose… more research required… take the lights and ride at night?

An uber carbon equiped super-light XC race bike… probably with 29″ wheels.

I’d almost certainly break it taking it places it shouldn’t go but I’d still like one 😳

Seatposts should not break… I think you have just been unlucky and had crap ones.

Back in the early nineties I broke a few until I stumped up the cash for a decent one (Bontrager at that time). Thomson are strong but I have seen a few break.

For a very long and really strong post I reccomend a BlackSpire Shore like this.

I ran one on my tiny 14″ Balfa Minuteman frame, and I’m 6ft… the post outlasted the frame – the post I have is 26.8mm unfortunately.

Mine got a little bent. I’d like to get a replacement sitting in the toolbox for when I need it.

A “carton” of Oranges

A “retreat” of Lapierres

As above, need them both pretty much open, they can feel okay with more in the garage or car park etc, but one or two clicks from full open is all I can twiddle before it chokes up and feels horrible on the trail.

On the evidence of this thread and the similarly bad experience of a friend of mine I plan to strip my AM this week and see how it looks.

Fingers crossed mine is not like that 😕

ODI Troy Lee lock on are my current favourites.

I’ve recently got some Sunline that are very soft but not comfortable.

Buddha smiles when I have the bikes in the garden 😀

2 fingers for the last 20 years. But you can teach old dogs new tricks and now I only use 1 finger, and it feels so much better.

Awesome ride today not spoiled in the slightest by my Reverb being away getting fixed.
Quick release = good.
Reverb = better

Theres no need. Its not the black art people make it out to be.

Bottle of beer, laptop/google search and a chilled out evening. It really isn’t the dark art I thought it was.

+1

Anyone use a Camelbak Octane 18x

Love my CamelBak Octane 18X – superlight and works really well loaded or empty. Not a lot of pockets but I’d rather not carry stuff I don’t need.

I’m pretty minimalist so it works for me. I’ve not tried to attach body armour to it as I don’t wear it, but I have had full waterproofs and my down gillet in it along with lunch, tool kit, spare gloves/hat etc… bit of a squeeze with that lot in but even bulked out it’s still comfy.

Did I mention silly light? Compared with any other pack I have seen anyway.

It is minimalist – don’t expect lots of pockets or straps – One pocket on the outside and two mesh in the belt… that’s your lot. If forces me to keep it simple which I like. I also have a big north face pack which I used to use when I couldn’t get everything into my old Mule… but since getting the Octane the other pack is never used. I really like it.

Hard to beat an XTR M970. Sell the rings and fit a Renthal.

Just looked on CRC… M970 are more expensive than the new M980/M985… WTF ❓

Or a tyre boot. Many ways to do it; anything that salvages a ride is a good thing.

How to: Make a tyre boot

Middleburn with your choice of spiderless chainrings from Homebrewed 8)

http://www.homebrewedcomponents.com/store.php/categories/spiderless-rings-for-middleburn-cranks

Or track down a secondhand XTR M960 to Jones – or a secondhand M970.

Bodgetastic note for future – I dinged a flow rim very badly and no way was it going to seal again. I managed to bend it out but there was a crack in the rim so I formed a big chunk of liquid metal into it and shaped it internally so I could get the bead to seat. I left a chunk of the liquid metal on the outside to strengthen the rim. Once the liquid metal was dry I got the bead to seat and rode it like this for a few weeks before the cracked rim started to deform at the bodge and the crack became visible again. But by this time my new rim had arrived and I could rebuild me wheel 😉

Had the crack not started to come through the liquid metal bodge I was going to keep riding it to see how long I could make it last.

Love my CamelBak Octane 18X – superlight and works really well loaded or empty. Not a lot of pockets but I’d rather not carry stuff I don’t need.

Good point Titusrider – the FSA Afterburner BB30 cranks on my Whyte were boat anchors when compared to SLX… there was no weight saving to the BB30 standard in that set up.

My experience was poor on a Whyte 19 Steel. Bearings were tight when in the frame, and fine when removed. Bearing removal and fitting requires fancy tools or a big hammer. I am happy to be back on threaded bottom brackets… even if that sometimes means PTFE tape and other faffing about… at least they are usually hammer free which means less chance of breaking something.

What are the symptoms of needing a bleed?

Slow to go up, won’t go all the way up etc… pretty much the same as losing all the air 😆

Walking up what is clearly rideable… MTFU and ride it 🙄

I rang sram uk and was informed it needs to go to a dealer to log the warranty work, in my case it was not the dealer I bought it from but the shop are doing the leg work and I will pay the postage.

Yup – sticking down, thats what mine did when it lost all air pressure. It was losing pressure on the last ride I did and I had to pull it up to lock it at full height, back in the garage the next day and it would not come up at all. I pumped it up and I could see and hear the leak from the bottom seals – hope to get it back in the next day or so.

I am hard on kit so I was going to wait for generation two but I wanted it for the Macavalanche so got an early one. Love it.

In use I absolutely love it, but my four month old one is currently back at SRAM having lost pressure last week. How I feel about this will depend on how long it takes to get it back and if the problem re-occurs (or indeed how often).

Mine was from the first batch so fingers crossed that whatever they do improves reliability and that it’s fixed quickly.

PS – I’m buying another for my other bike anyway.

I’ve had mine a couple of months and other than setting sag, I have only had to increase the slow speed compression by a couple of clicks from out of the box. One pain in the ‘arris is the axle, which can’t be tightened enough by hand and doesn’t have a pop-out lever like Fox.

New Deville’s have a pop out lever like Fox – you can see it in this picture.

Link to the Bos vs Fox thread.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bos-vs-fox-there-is-only-one-way-to-find-out-fight

I wonder what golf does for the economy in comparison?

I rode over thirty miles in the highlands last weekend with a bodged up 2″ gash through my tyre side wall. I’m confident in my bodging skills. Happy to solo ride in the Scottish mountains.

I liked them, do a search and find the back to back review I wrote. One comment from a friend who runs them is that they do not feel as good as Fox on big drops…. the drop he references is about 12ft so proper doonhall bike territory but fine with 36’s whereas he bottom outs the Bos with a loud bang.
They are last years and he has had them checked but there is nothing wrong… he still likes them but prefers the feel of his Fox… but not replacing the CSU every year due to wear which is why he bought them.