If you’re not dead set against it then have a look secondhand… the tz-uk forum has a really cool Sales Corner where you can pick up some mint deals. There are some truly obsessive people there who buy and sell watches on a daily basis and take ridiculous care of them..

Also check out Blowers jewellery and Watches.co.uk for other secondhand options.

As far as brands go, you might be able to pick up a secondhand Panerai but I’d look very closely at IWC, Sinn, Damasko, Fortis, Oris perhaps. There are dozens of decent brands out there if you want to look beyond the obvious.