…at the age of 37

Thanks! It still gives me 3 more years then! :roll:

…but given the depth of that groove I’d expect there to be something very obvious which is rubbing on that part of the disc – please report back.

I have an old pad somewhere, I’ll try to take some photo of it later. It corresponds with my previous post, linked in the top one here. I connect the facts now:

1. The bottom of the pads was about 2mm below the bottom of the braking surface of the rotor.
2. Some contamination got onto the disc due to my carefulness.
3. Pads cooked the contamination onto the braking surface. From then this was my main braking surface.
4. Every time the main “braking area” was in contact with the rotor, trying to work with the dirt under, there was 2mm of fresh pads hitting the rotor spider. It was not enough to slow the bike down, but enough to wear the rotor in that place…
5. I removed the contamination (no heating up, just “mechanical work”), hit the freshly cleaned brakes, the pads grabbed the rotor with full power, as there was no dirt under and… The rest is self-explanatory… :lol:

You’ve had something wrong there well before you cleaned the disc and you really should have noticed that disc was wearing badly and was no longer usable.

Caliper alignment, sticking pistons, worn pads, incorrectly installed split pin? All could be issues leading to this.
I’m not arguing it was differently… :roll: I posted it more as “kids, don’t try it at home!” sort of thing :wink:

just realised I’ve got a 180 version of that rotor on the front of my 456

That’s what I’m putting on the back now. I had it on a front wheel which got damaged in off-road OTB few months ago. New front is 6-bolts, so I’m transferring the “old front” rotor to replace the failed one… To be honest – putting them side by side (well, whatever was left from the “cooked” one) showed a big difference in thickness… :oops:

Now I need another advice! Would an old rear QR axle fit into the modern’ish QR hub? It’s a “long story”……

how much sanding did you do?

Very gently, just to remove the the black residue…

And yes – I was OK, thanks! It was the rear brake, fortunately…

A assume the whole “cooking process” described in my previous post did some damage to the structure. And this morning the pads hit the rotor “full power”…

Common sense is not really common, is it? 8O

About two years ago I found a hole on my old pair of SealSkinz, on a toe. Right through all three layers. Mind, that the socks were about 2 years old and I had no proof of purchase (who would keep a receipt for a pair of socks for 2 years…). I emailed S’Skinz customer service, asking if there is a way of fixing/patching up the hole. They asked me to send them the socks for inspection. A week later there was a brand new pair of socks in the post for me! :D

My Ultragrip gloves have 4 places, where the outer layer is ripped (the beauty of mountain biking…), but the membrane keeps strong.

Try to contact them.

No hose-tap outside… When we bought the house I wasn’t into mountain biking at all, the lack of it didn’t really seem like an issue… :|

Moss falling off the roof.

But the main one is… SEAGULLS!!! :evil:

1. Remove seat post.
2. Wipe it dry/clean.
3. Spray it with ordinary hair spray (not too much, just “pssst! pssst!”)
4. Insert seat post back into the frame.
5. Enjoy riding!

Tried and tested 8)

OK, I’m alive! :lol:

The brake felt a bit better, firmer, with the pads touching more of the disc surface. No bolts popping out :wink:

It seemed a bit better breaking, definitely quiter. But on the one dh singletrack they lost all the power after about 15 seconds – I was trying to test it by locking the wheel (the track covered with small rocks): worked only for a short while, then the brake faded totally, as before…
I’m gonna stick the old rotor, but in 180mm size (adapter ordered) and get some softer pads.

Thanks a lot for valuable comments! :)

What could possibly go wrong.

“PONG!” “PONG!”

I’m not entirely sure if that would be the exact sound the popping caliper bolts would make… :lol:

ah we have a creationist in our midst.

Dinosaurs did not exist! :twisted:

I measured the distance of the worn out area under the braking surface on the rotor – it was between 2-3mm. Two small washers under each caliper bolt fitted – it felt OK on the short ride around the car park. But there is a steep downhill road when I leave work, with traffic lights at the bottom – that will be the test! :lol:

Old rotor: 160mm

New rotor: 160mm.

Adaptor: 160mm.

All Shimano…

The “hollow” trophies can show you how much faster you are getting by removing extra layer of clothing when spring is starting showing its arrival! :lol:

Problem with the old rotor is that it is “resin pads only” – I used to go through a pair of pads every week in the winter…

If the “trick” doesn’t work I will put it back on.

The pads are fresh Nukeproof sintered (but the issue was present on different pads before as well). The rotors are nice and clean, also the calipers etc. The whole system works perfectly fine. Except there is not enough power, as I said.

I do believe that extra contact area = more friction = more power…

I will give it a go, raising it up about 2.5mm! 8)

The adaptor is 160mm, the disc is 160mm too. However the bike came with the RT30 rotors, which have much more “contact area”:

The RT81 (fitted currently) seem to be a bit “narrower” – I assume that is what causes the issue. On my photo in the first post you can see that the pads wear the disc few mm lower than the pad contact area…

I don’t see why the incline makes a difference to the brake?

More braking power needed to make the bike slow down/stop…

I’m not the “master of technical stuff” too… But I found the 24/12 course very enjoyable last year! If I only had my forks set up properly…

I loved the climbs. The Bombholes were fun after the second lap. Plenty of roots in the woods, but when dry they were nothing problematic. I would expect a bit different game even after the slightest rain though! LOL

How much travel has it got? :lol:

If you can stretch a bit have a look on the Niterider Lumina series. I’ve got the 750, the pulse function on it is brilliant – when riding it does feel like the unit is releasing “fire punch” few times per second! :lol:

I found some positive signs of Spring on the way to work this morning :D

If a 7-years old kid on a bike was hit by a car would the media still be screaming “cyclist!”?

Some sort of helmet GoPro-mount would be good…

Or buy new frame! 8)

Photo taken this morning, on a way to work. There is some sea water on the sides :wink:

I had it. Really loud clicky/cracky noise when a bit more power was put on the pedals… I discovered there was a single “click” every time I undid the rear quick release – the noise seemed to appear near bottom bracket. I was getting really depressed with the fact my frame was cracked somewhere!

One day I put a drop of chain lube on rear drop outs before re-installing the wheel… The frame wasn’t cracked anymore! :roll:

From my experience: you say “I don’t care!” to the whole Strava-thing only until you loose one of your KOMs (which you had to gain before, obviously). Then the game changes. Well… Shall I say “life” instead of “game”? :lol:

Very nice bike, indeed! 8)

Cheddeore?

Haha! Yeah! :lol:

I had one on M475 hub and during one ride around the rocky tracks by Burrator Reservoir in Dartmoor I was experiencing some weird noises coming from rear wheel. Got home, wanted to check if the cassette was tight. And I discovered that the lockring would not engage fully… Took the cassette off…

It took me about 15 minutes to pick up all the bits and bobs from the kitchen floor and about an hour to put the 500 pieces 3D puzzles back together (“glued” together with massive amount of grease…), so I could commute next morning… :roll:

But I managed to squeeze few days of riding from that thing before new hub arrived (I only had to make sure the lockring was tight enough before and after every ride…)! :lol:

Few weeks ago after very muddy ride me and my buddy fancied a pint of Guinness – we were just riding through a village, the pub was open… The guy stayed outside with the bikes. I went in to get the beverages… Mind I was wearing muddy overshoes, knee length socks, hummvee shorts… I left the helmet outside, so there was a buff on my head. I could feel/see few “boys” staring at me. Then one of them asked: “Have you been playing cricket?” :lol:

As for Sealskinz gloves (and Endura Deluge) – they are waterproof 100%. You can wash a bike/windows/dishes in them and they will not get wet inside (tested!). As long as there is no water ingress through the top! :lol: So if your jacket gives up (the sleeves are almost always first…) you’ll feel that almost instantly in your gloves…

Some time ago I discovered how much sweat evaporates from the body – and that was on a 2°C 5 miles commute! I wore merino base layer, thermal jersey (not wind/waterproof at all!) and lightweight gillet with windproof front (mesh on the back). So very breathable set up. I commute with a Deuter rucksack, which has that mesh frame, so there is always a gap between my back and the rucksack. That day it was quite cloudy, so I put a waterproof cover on the Deuter (it’s a rucksack cover, so no breathable fabric). After I got to work and took the rucksack off I discovered that the inside of the cover was absolutely wet! And I’m not talking “damp”, but properly soaked. And it was on a dry, chilly day, on short distance. And it was quite away from my body – so if similar stuff happens on the insides of our waterproof jackets, then I’m tempted to believe that it’s mainly the perspiration that makes us soaked wet on rainy day…

I didn’t flag it – I suppose it was the guy who lost those KOMs! :lol:

OP d’you really care that much that some-one else is cheating on Strava?

really?

nickc I’ve never seen a ride done/edited/whateverhappenedtoit like this, hence is my interest in it. As you can see above – few other guys find it weird too. That’s it. :wink:

You guys need to be on the road.cc forum

:lol:

I’m more interested about the way it’s done!

Not that I want to repeat it or something… :roll:

That’s the ride: https://www.strava.com/activities/256969581

You can manipulate your data before uploading it to strava.

http://www.digitalepo.com/
I know that site – I used it ones to see what happens (on private ride, deleted after the test) and where it says what device was used to record the ride it displayed “from file” – that would be quite obvious to spot… But I’ve never seen “mobile” before.

How come?

That’s what I want to know! :lol:

Most people have one leg shorter than the other, hope it’s the right way round!

The others have one leg longer than the other…

I really like night road riding. Especially that where I live (Torbay) there is almost no cars on the roads after 9PM – I’m talking about back lanes and the roads leading to cross-ferries. Plus if there is a car coming from any direction I can see it for miles. Sometimes I even listen to the music on the earphones (which I’d never do during the day)… :roll:

I’ve done about 11k km on that bike in the last year. Anything from Bike Park Wales do over 200km road sportives. I commute on it daily (tarmac, rooty and muddy singletracks, gravel roads).

The bits that failed: freehub body, after about 5000 km. I also had to replace the front wheel recently, but that was due to a high speed OTB in the woods :roll:

Other than that and the wear & tear items (cassette, chain, jockeys, chainrings, BB, headset bearings, cables, brake pads) I run everything stock.

Awesome bike, very comfortable (I rode 12hr Bontrager last year on it) and the frame is bombproof!

The only thing to keep in mind – despite the website saying “tapered steerer” the bike has standard 1 1/8″!
Also the sticker on its Manitou Marvel Comp forks is for the ISO Air spring models (which are Pro and Expert). The Comp has TS Air system. If you set it to the sticker guide you’ll have it waaaay to soft. I found this fork performs the best when it’s on the firmer side (I put 95 PSI, I weight 74kg naked…).