I run both 27 PSI.

The only thing I can think of:
1. Crossmark is a bit thinner, therefore softer.
2. Crossmark is smaller, therefore it puts more work onto the forks, which works better under bigger pressure.

3. I’m just a believer. :lol:

I feel so good I can’t afford expensive bike! :lol:

Another two Polish bike parts names to break your tongues:

seat post = sztyca (read: sch-ty-tsa)

spokes = szprychy (read: sch-pry-hy).

The funny thing is that a bottom bracket has an English name in Poland, but it is totally different – it is called “support” 8)

But you get free helmet!

This is when I found out.

I posted similar thing few months back.

At the end I found that no nut tool was required! Deore crankset, M612. The holes for the nuts on the chairings have two small slots along the diameter, to accept tiny extrusions on the nuts. This holds the nuts in place, all I needed was 5mm allen key.

Check your crankset/chainrings before you buy anything! 8)

I had 680. Then I put some bar ends, lost about 40mm of the “usable bar width”. So I went for 760. It looked ridiculous with the endbars and 90mm stem… But it felt nice downhill.
But it was very unstable uphill.

Gone back to 680. I love the bar ends more than wide bars… :lol:

The one that came with the bike from the shop has never failed. As long as it’s not raining.

There is a guy here (Torbay) who rides a Stumpjumper MII. He is at least in top 3 on 95% of local strava segments – doesn’t matter up or down, rocky, rooty, rutty, muddy…

What about yum yums? 8)

Wear them, ride a bit, make them dirty, wash them with no conditioner next time.

They are no super-technical fabric, they will be fine.

They should update the law – “Strava users have priority” :lol:

Where can I buy it? 8)

Apparently it is very tasty… :lol:

Sealskinz are great! But they will brutally show you how much your jacket’s sleeves lack of waterproofness… 8)

If it’s above 8°C and wet I found no need for w/proof gloves. Dura Gloves by DeFeet are the choice then.

This Deore looks fantastic (THE PRICE!).

They’d still kick everyone’s respective asses as demonstrated by the F1 drivers on Top Gears “Star in a reasonably priced car” feature, where the F1 drivers still absolutely batter all comers despite the short comings of whatever mid priced hatch they’re driving that week.

Yeah, I absolutely have no doubt in that! The question should be formed: how would the “normal” bikes perform under the Full Racing Power of Absalon, Kulhavy, Fontata, Hermida… :lol:

Stuff like that always makes me wonder how interesting would be to see the top riders racing on off-the-shelf £999 bikes…

Yeah… I started hating my bike until I put some grease on the rear QR…

Exactly what fadda said ^^^

BigNine 900Still some left. Nicely reduced price!

I had few, but after a recent trip in a car along the motorway from Amsterdam Airport to Germany the list has been extended for additional 100 buildings…

I’ve never seen anyone in the forest wearing camo riding kit.

That means it works well then!

Why the **** did I click on that link???? 8O

Interesting, Im guessing the rivets failed?

Yep!
The cassette on the photo was replaced under warranty. The new one did exactly the same thing after about 600 km (if not less)!

It’s just a proof that Deore is the best groupset ever made! 8)

XT cassettes break before they wear!!

How do you break a cassette? I’ve never broken a cassette in my life.

I’ve done it twice. XT cassette – never again!

I want these glasses… 8O

Can you watch some TV channels on this too?

This is the only thing worth consideration… :lol:

On a bit more serious note – I know what definitely not to wear: the nice kit. The nicer and more expensive your jersey is, the more thorns and brambles are going to attack you. My 3 years old Lidl’s top in still mint. Last week I wore a nice new Craft top – 4 thorn holes after 30 minutes.

Photo or it didn’t happen!

but what it doesn’t show you is how much fun you had and how big a smile was on your face at the bottom of a fast descent.

It does! You can upload photos! :lol:

Quite a bit of padding:

:lol:

Don’t forget to re-install the app before you go out tonight… :lol:

No no… You never know what can happen, even if you are very experienced rider. In case on a fall the kid has no protection at all.

Two things to consider/try:

1. Turn the cable tensioning barrel about 2 turns into the shifter – this will loose the cable a bit, which will lower the position of the mech.

2. You had a chainsuck recently and the front mech twisted slightly on the seat tube. Shift to the small ring (so the cable is loose) undo the mounting bolt a bit and twist the mech back to the proper position (I’d expect it to be about 3mm clockwise – if looking from the top of the bike).

What’s the actual gain? Making climbing harder and high speed sections slower? :roll:

STRAAAAVAAAAA! :lol:

I had a borrowed road bike for a while. It had an old Ultegra groupset (53/39 chainring) with short cage rear mech. I fitted 11-32T cassette to make my life a bit easier and I had no issues with the mech at all.

If you are fit enough to tackle very steep climbs (especially those with loose rocks and plenty of roots) that’s where you’ll definitely notice the difference – there is a bit more of traction under the rear tyre, plus the front tackles the obstacles better.

Otherwise I’m lacking too much skills to feel the difference in wheel size… :roll:

Another option was… idspispodsd :lol: