Yeah, mine is a litespeed built in 08, and I was sure the warranty was 5 years, but getting some conflicting info, so I’m trying to find a definite answer

Thanks, when you write ” silverfish say” can you clarify? In a personal phone call, on their website etc?
Cos I’ve had some conflicting info regarding 2,3 and 5 year warranty, my frame is approx 4.5 years old so it makes quite a difference to me!

Anyone got to the registration page yet?

And it’s crashed ……

The low volume of CX tyres means that if they burp you loose an almost catastrophic amount of air!

yeah, this is probably quite true, both times I burped my rear in a race, I was probably running too much pressure, and after the burp, I still had plenty of air and the grip was better. So I think I had plenty of air to lose. I think I’m still not used to running the really low pressures cos I’m still scared of pinch flats.

Its interesting tho’, I’m assuming running higher pressure is going to reduce the risk of a burp? as the pressure is pushing the tyre bead onto the rim, so if you start off with a lower pressure to start with, do you run a greater risk of burping and having no air left?
I think after this season is over I’ll add some more tape to build out the rim well and see if that makes it more stable.

Which bit is not sounding good?
The setup? it is hassle, and took a good few days to be confident with them.
The advantages for racing are there, for commuting, the only advantage has to be puncture resistance?
I think I’d just buy heavier weight tubes and thicker tyres. The hassle of a proper flat (ie burp / ripped sidewall) on a commute is a big deal, and heavier wheels for commuting = more training effect surely?

I’m using Mavic CXP33 rims with Rocket Rons. Yellow tape to build up the central channel then a stan’s rim strip.
Needed a compressor / CO2 cartridge to get them to mount up properly. The front sealed instantly, with only 3/4 cup of sealant, but the rear was more hassle. Inflated to + 60psi, then it would drop down to ~10 overnight, shaking, rolling, spinning, riding, leaving on one side, then the other didnt do much. Added another full cup of sealant and the sidewalls finally stopped oozing, probably took 3 days of messing to get it to hold pressure – so dont do it the day before a race!

Raced twice with them now, and the rear has burped once in each race, each time when i’ve really pushed hard into a corner, only lost a tiny amount of air and sealed up straight away. No idea what pressure I’m running – way less than when I had tubes in there and its definitely better, more grip and in one of the races I’m pretty sure i punctured but didnt even notice till afterwards.

So pretty much as per any tubeless experience – more hassle to setup but worth it.

Yeah, I plan to keep one single bayonet light, with the switch next to the side door for short trips just to get stuff out / put stuff in etc.
Sounds like the best plan is then to replace the other bayonet with a twin 6ft fluorescent setup. I would only use this when I was settled in for a longer period so I’m not too worried about the on / off cycles.

So….garage is completely detached from the house, separate switch in the main fuse box in the kitchen will switch off all the garage power.
Currently has washing machine / tumble dryer / 2 bayonet light fittings and 3 x double sockets in there. Run the lawn mower from the sockets in the there with no problem. It also used to have our oil fired central heating boiler which we’ve since replaced with gas and moved into the kitchen.
So my guess is that with all that in there, and no problems historically, the wiring should be good enough to handle a few more watts of light?

So I can simply replace one bayonet fitting with a twin 6ft fluorescent setup just by re-wiring it?
Any idea how much brighter that would be than an 80w equivalent bulb?
If I were to also install a 4ft tube on the wall opposite the work bench, can I simply wire this in parallel to the new light?
And then if I want to switch this short wall mounted one independantly, can I still run this all off the same original light fixture cabling?

How do i find out what the wiring is like for the garage?
Could I run 2 x 6ft tubes as a main ceiling light then a shorted 4ft single tube on the wall by the workbench all off the same spur / switch thingy?

Starting to sound a little more than un-wiring one lamp and wiring in a new one!
Any idea what a decent electrician would charge for it?

Actually deposit was probably paid about 2 years ago. Like I said, long lead item!

Dunno about making an issue, I made a point of saying when I wanted it, which was agreed. (its a long lead item….I ordered 3 years ago, with an agreed completion date of “spring 2012”

Paid by cheque. And yeah, I’m quite surprised I cant find anything, all the info about deposits basically states that deposits are essentially an agreement to trade and non-refundable (unless otherwise stated) if I were to change my mind for whatever reason. No mention of what happens if the vendor fails to meet their side of the contract.

Unfortunately, the vendor has stopped all communications with me.
I asked for either a firm guarantee that it would be delivered by a certain date, or a refund.
That was about 3 weeks ago, since then I’ve had no reply to emails or phone calls.

As much as I dont want to, i think its time to get legal, but I wasnt 100% sure where i stood.

I guess CAB is probably my next port of call.

thanks

nope, its not wheels or chainrings….

OK, i get your point now.

I guess thats just a matter of trial and error to see how the rim seals up with the strip and sealant?

I’m loathed to spend out quite a big extra chunk of money on tubeless rims when they seem to far more of a compromise for the road (and I’ll be using them on the road for 3/4 of the year!!)

Based on that, I think its worth giving the rim strip a chance, worst case I carry on using tubes….

Tubulars seem like a major pain in the hole, in my limited racing experience I’ve seen a number of folks roll their tubs, also the extra expense and faff to swap between tyres is not good.
I’ll be using them for cross racing, then road training / sportives in the summer. The alphas seem scary light for cross, I’d be scared of trashing them.

As for the 2 x sets of wheels, I can understand that, I’ll have spare wheels, but I want the best set to be used for cross and road, and I cant see that something like a mavic rim is a major compromise for either?
Swap tyres after the cross season, and I know a few folk who are running rim strips and tubeless quite happily for cross so unless there is something I’m missing, then to me it looks like the road / 29er tubeless rims are good for 29er MTB tubeless tyres and road tubeless, (neither of which I’ll be using) and dont offer much else?

Yeah, just found the iron cross, look very nice, but I’m not too clued in on the whole tubeless thing.
As they’re arent many (any?) tubeless specific cross tyres with the special hooky bead thing, do tubeless rims offer much that non-tubeless rims offer? (apart from not needing the rim strip to seal the spoke holes)

A set of mavic rims + the rim strip still works out quite a bit cheaper than a set of tubeless rims, and I dont know what extra they offer?

Thanks, think I’ll give the bike shop a ring before I head over.

Bump for the morning,

Anyone been to Machynlleth recently?

“Interesting” and “hike-a-bike” i can handle.
Looks pretty stunning there as well, and you cant beat a bit of proper outdoorsy exploring, where you havent a clue where you’re going!

Wont be there for a few weeks yet, so might wait and see how wet its been in the weeks leading up to it.
The maps’ scale suggests its 3 – 4kms between the road on the west side and the forest / fire road on the east side. 1 – 1.5 hrs of trekking worst case? Whats the worst that can happen!

Thanks folks,

I’ll see what its like at the time, and then maybe give it a go depending on how long my day pass is valid for.

No local knowledge at all, was thinking of coed y brennin cos it’s easy to get some good bike time in with pretty much guaranteed conditions and times etc.
But defo open to suggestions about more wild routes, ART, do you have any directions / links to the Pont Scethin route or others around that area?

thanks again

Soma Double Cross

How about a Soma Double Cross? they do a disc and a non-disc version, think the clearance is more than a kaff. I had one a few years ago, very nice bike. Although I’m not sure if anyone is importing them anymore?

Naughty! I dont think you should of been there should you?
top of Tibradden?

Mark,
Did what you recommended ( closed the gazillion apps which I didnt even realise stayed open!!) and closed down iBooks and tried again, and it seems to be working great now. I’ve got three issues and they all seem to render ok, and any blank pages seem to load up when you go into them.
Good to hear about the app issue, I looked into that and it seemed to be very disconnected, and I couldn’t find anyway of working out how it would connect in to the forum etc. maybe put a better description in the app store?

Anyway it’s working now, so thanks for the help in getting it sorted.

Just to confuse it, I’ll prob get one decent set of wheels (so with a disc hub) but i’ll also need to use current training wheels, which are 130mm. so 132.5 sounds like it might be a goer.

Interesting that most people think the industry will go to a 135mm standard. Presumably road bikes with discs will be here a few years later, then all bikes will be 135mm…..

yeah, there’s a few frames out there with 132.5mm. Seems a good idea in princicple, esp if you’re using steel or ti.
But im not sure how annoyed you’d get constantly having to stretch or squeeze the frame whenever you change wheels.

Why “Unless you’re racing” ?
I think for a few years at least I’ll stick to cantis, but want the frame to be compatible when good cross discs are available.

The plan is to use it for everything- racing; exploring; commuting; roads and then when I get old, touring…..

Yep, I’ve downloaded 69, 70 and now 71 to read on the iPad, downloaded as high quality PDF format, and then opened in iBooks as per instructions.
All three have a number of blank pages (normally in the second half of the mag)and then any pages later on are out of focus, like a really poor quality pdf.
Closing then reopening sometimes fixes it for specific pages, but not always and I’ve never had an entire issue open without some issues – sometimes as much as 3/4 of the second half is blank, the rest out of focus.

I dont really like reading stuff sat at my PC, so went for this option so I can read it on the iPad, but this isnt working either.
Is there something i’m doing wrong? does a lower quality pdf work? is ti the iPad? (although other books and pdfs work fine)
I’ve tried the kindle edition in the kindle app, but there’s no pictures.

Any ideas?

thanks jono, that sounds like plenty of room, I’ll have a bit of a play with it.
TJ, that was my other thought and probably the next “least hassle / cost” solution if i dont get even room with the same chain length.

Why not dinglespeed it?

cos i wanna keep it simple and cheap (ie what i have in the shed) and i think that 3t difference will be enough. The only problem could be the tyre clearance.

good point about the tyres. the 19t would be used with cross tyres, so that may limit it.
i have some 38’s in there and the wheel needs to be most of the way back. hmmmm…..might have to have a bit of a play with it and see what fits

So the app itself seems a bit pointless (and more expensive) and reading PDFs on the iPad seems hit and miss. What about using the kindle reader on the iPad, are any of the mag downloads compatible with the kindle app?

Ok so I found the instructions in the back issues section, and it seems I can subscribe then download to get them into the iBooks app, but by the sounds of it the formatting isn’t great? PDF seems to be a bit limiting, anybody using the ePub version or in iBooks ?

Interested in this too.
Heading out to do the PPDS this year, first time in the Alps. Im planning on taking my Blur 4X (with a coil shock which ups the rear travel to 130mm and 140mm coil pikes on the front)
Also heard pretty bad reports about rental bikes out there, both cost and condition.
Will defintely be planning on doing more XC than DH, so hoping the blur will be OK for the most part.
If anyone has links to gps routes or books of routes that would be very handy……

<backs slowly and nauseously away from thread>

thanks,
yeah, its not light!
Was thinking on keeping the air (RP3) for longer XC days and getting a coil for more downhill stuff. With a 130mm coil, coil pikes and some dh tyres and tubes, i’m hoping it’ll be perfect for the passporte du soleil and a little bit of downhill in the alps.

thanks hobnob, what shock did you run?
Was it any good?

Saw the mtbr thread, and the fella on there was talking about adding a bit of oil to reduce the stroke length. that kind of fettling is beyond me, shocks are left well alone!
Not sure how to check without getting hold of one first? and would an extra 10mm of travel even be noticable?

Robin Mather. You’ll get what you want, it’ll be beautifully made and will ride fab.

But if you wanted it for your 40th birthday ,you may have needed to order on your 38th…..

its my 40th next year, and i put in my order probably about 18 months ago…..starting to get a little excited…..

thanks,
think i just need a slightly stronger bracket then,
my barley would probably be a little heavier but your design should work.