Has anyone used Chrono24 or similar to buy an expensive (few thousand) watch?
Lots of options on there significantly cheaper than AD’s for brand new with papers and box, and it sounds safer than the likes of ebay. Just a little scary trusting them that much money…..

Just a quick follow up …

Works well, much smoother than the old laptop. I forgot about the sound – the monitor has no speakers, but it has a headphone socket so easy to hook up some external speakers – but something to be aware if anyone’s thinking of going this’s route.

yeah i wondered about a smart plug for the oil rad.

what size oil rad for what size shed are you using?

thanks for the solutions, but i cant find a problem solver ispec II to ispec B
they have loads for shimano brakes to sram shifters, but none that i can find for ispec 2 to ispec B
is there definitely one available?

otherwise the replacement band seems like the best solution

CRC arent showing any ispec B brake levers so I’m assuming they’re not made anymore?
And the only i spec II shifters are 11 spd……
so in order to use the new new brake I need to get a new shifter and new cassette and new chain and new rear mech????

this is crazy…..is there not an adaptor you can get???

natrix, what did you seal it with? a bought one or a home made one?

wwas, when you say a “long time” – how long? its been down a couple of weeks now and its probably gonna be another 3 or 4 weeks before the builders finish the house and move there tea room out of my new bike shed so i can paint it

They emailed the vouchers, I questioned it and they offered to cancel the vouchers and replace with the newer model.
Always had great customer service from them, so happy with the outcome (apart from the slightly OCD problem that the old left hand one is silver and the new replacement right hand is black

They’ve offered to replace with the newer more expensive item, so everyone’s happy

(It was chain reaction if anyone was interested)

So the original item has been replaced with a newer model. The shop carries the newer model at £15 more than I paid for the original item. I can find the original item for the same price I paid elsewhere. But they have offered me vouchers (which expire in 3 mths)
And it’s not a shonky little outfit it’s a pretty massive company….

So I can’t insist on an equivalent replacement but I can ask for a cash refund then go and buy it somewhere else?

I can get a pair of pliers to grip the bolts, but they’re not moving. Currently squirting them with WD40 every time I walk past them.

I tried smacking them, before and after I drilled the heads off. Wondered about heating them, but I think I would melt the shoe.

There are a spare set of bolt holes, and that is my last resort – i think to be able to use them i would need to get rid of the bolt stubs in the other holes. Plus the cleats would be in the wrong position. Which admittedly would be better than throwing the shoes away.

I think the reverse thread extractor is my next plan…

(and I greased the bolts very thoroughly before I fitted them….but that was probably five years ago….do people remove, clean and re-fit them periodically???)

I’ve just been through this, and its confusing.
The DT Swiss 240 “fifteen” centreloc disc front hub comes as standard QR but can be converted to a 15mm bolt through using end caps (DT swiss Part no. HWGXXX0002149S) The standard QR end caps pull off and the new ones push in.

I think this is the only disc brake QR version you can convert to 15mm…the 6 bolt version wont and if it doesnt say “fifteen” on the hub then it wont either.

Hope this helps, I spent quite a while trying to get clarification, there’s a lot of conflicting information out there.

Dont be fooled by the nice paint job! I’ve no doubt that my brazing is amateur at best. I read somewhere to make a good-looking frame you have to be good at either brazing or filing. To make a good frame you need to good at both. I’m very much in the former camp at the moment – I spent way longer cleaning up afterwards that cutting or brazing the tubes.
This is the front triangle before any clean-up, the flux is burnt and the HAZ is far too big – both signs that I’m using too much heat.

[/url]DSC_3462 by Mark Yandle[/url], on Flickr[/img]

But equally don’t be daunted, if you’re reasonably mechanically minded its not that hard, but if you can get advice / help / tuition from someone I’d always recommend you go that route.
Just on the costs – I forgot to mention the finishing of the frame, you’ll either need to find someone with some expensive tools to ream, face and chase the seat tube, head tube, and BB or buy them. I bought them cos there is no-one nearby with them. That’s about 300 or 400 worth of very nice tools.

I’ve made 3 now, all lugged, brass brazed using oxygen and propane.
The start up is quite expensive, but I have the gas tanks rent free, maybe 200 for the torches / hoses and maybe 200 for aluminium stuff to make a jig (which you dont actually need). Then the rest is all normal tools, i use hacksaws and files, that’s it really.
I’m completely self taught, never held a torch before I started number 1.
I had my name down for a frame from a big name builder and got messed around so much that i thought “screw this, it cant be that hard” and really, its not.
Take your time, practice on scrap (ceeway will sell you cheap tubes to practice on) and enjoy the learning experience. For me, this is a world away from my real job, and I love it. It’s taking me 6 mths or so per frame, but its a hobby and the joy is in making them, not necessarily finishing them, if you see what i mean. No. 4 will be disc braked, fillet brazed, so a load more stuff to learn!

The first spin down the road on your first frame is fantastic…I raced number 3 on its first outing last weekend, that was pretty cool as well!

[/url]DSC_3527_edited-1 by Mark Yandle[/url][/img]

[/url]DSC_3547_edited-1 by Mark Yandle[/url][/img]

My home made cross frame – lugged & brass brazed (using Sif 101 and LFB flux). Frame number 3 and its amazing what a good paint job can do to hide the messy brazing!!

[/url]DSC_3527_edited-1 by Mark Yandle[/url], on Flickr[/img]

So if I’ve not received a mail by now then that means I’m not in?
Or do they send out rejection mails as well?

Interesting, I just replaced the cables on my 5700’s this weekend and thought as I put them back together and re-wrapped the tape that the shifting didn’t show the massive jump that normally results from a new cable.

I came to the same conclusion, dumped a load of GT85 in there and clicked up and down with no cable for 5 mins. Seemed to get a bit better, but the difference between old and new cables is nowhere near as dramatic as with my (older) ultegras after a cable change.

Just checking (and I’m sure you know) – there are 2 exits for the gear cable – one in a straighter line round the back of the bars and one with a tight turn to run round the front of the bars…..whilst the front gives a nicer profile, its definitely worse for the friction of the cables.

Next time I might try the oil batch / boiling water – has anyone actually done the boiling water without damaging anything?

Thanks,

I was hoping not to have to replace the rims, and I think open pros are pretty much the same width as cpx33’s so I’ll give it a go.

Any new rim seems to be disc brake specific, which would mean a load more money to convert the cross bike to discs

Along similar lines, I have a question around heart rate and power and their correlation…

When you have the FTP value (both HR and watts), the aim is presumably then to train and you would then subsequently see an improvement in your power output.

As your heart rate range is essentially fixed (is this the case?), and your average heart rate you could ever maintain for the 20 minute test will be the same (give or take) and therefore training would increase the power output for a given heart rate – ie your efficiency.

If that’s right, then getting an FTP value for your HR is pointless…as it will always be the same?

So does that mean FTP Heart rate values are pointless without the power figures?

Or is average heart rate directly correlated to power output, and thus training will increase both together?

I know its kind of boring, but someone must know??!!

I decided I wanted a custom steel road frame for my 40th, saved up, put my name on the waiting list of a well known english builder (together with a substantial deposit)….and waited….and waited….
After a couple of years (and my birthday) had passed and there was still no sign of any kind of final design or completion date I eventually had to threaten him with small claims court to get my money back.

I bought a Van Nicholas Ti frame for less than the custom steel and subsequently taught myself to braze. No. 1 has got over 2000kms on it and no cracks, and I’ve just picked up No.2 from the painters….

Anyway, if I was in your position I’d book myself onto Dave Yates course, there really is nothing like the feeling of riding a bike that you designed, cut, filed and brazed yourself.

spooky….
I’m just in the process of dealing with a retailer about a cracked hummer which was repaired under warranty and has since cracked again over the repair weld.

I have to say in Silverfish’s defence last time they were good to me and got stuff moving…but they were pretty brutal about replying to emails but were great once I bypassed the dealer and phoned them

Can I ask about the frame?
How old?
litespeed or lynskey?
Where did it crack?
Whats the warranty period you were given?

thanks!

I’ve often thought about a frame that could run with either a flat bar or drops, but came to the conclusion it was too much of a compromise.

If you’re planning disc brakes you have a big issue – you’ll have to overcome the brake / shifter compatability problems – (you would have to have a set of both road and mtb shifters / brakes – and then you’ll need 2 sets of brakes as well, unless the new hydraulic road brakes are the same throw as flat bar mtb discs? and if they are then you need to swap hoses instead of cables.)
So, a big problem with discs, not a problem with canti brakes.

Then you have the issue of the top tube length, my 2 x mtbs are about 700mm from the centre of the bar to the centre of the saddle. My two road / cross bikes are approx 830 from saddle to centre of the hoods.
Big difference…..and the length of the stem is important to the handling, outside of a sweet spot you would definitely be compromised.

I ran my pompino with canti brakes with a 120 stem / flat bar and also an 80mm stem / drop bar. Both set ups were “OK” but definitely compromised…..if you’re getting a custom frame I’d suggest making a definite decision re flat vs drops…..it solves the brake issue and also means the handling is sorted without compromise.

Yeah, that was my line of reasoning…the repair didnt actually repair anything….just covered up the problem for a while.
And by performing the repair is there an element of admitting a fault and thus being responsible for performing the repair properly?

I think the open question over the warranty period will be the crux of the matter, and I’ll be replying on good will.

I will phone them and speak to them nicely!

Thanks for the thoughts, seems to be general agreement that I’d be relying on the good will of the manufacturer / distributor. I’ll give them a ring and see where we go from here…..

And just for info, its not aluminium, its titanium and the crack is around the bottom of the chainstay where it meets the dropout. The repair was a small weld straight over the top of the crack, and now the new weld has a crack running straight down the middle of it..

So, what titanium hardtail frame for 26″ wheels and a straight 1 1/8″ steerer fork??!!!

Hmm…..even if the repair they performed was very clearly not good enough?
Can you get away with performing a warranty repair thats just about good enough to last, or should it return the item to as new status?

By the way, meant to say, I feel for you, I was so f***ing gutted when I went to collect it and saw the dent that I could hAve cried……spent so long on that frame……but I’m over it and number 2 will be better!

I had exactly the same thing happen to my first frame, the frame builder I took it to to ream, face etc claimed that it was so far out of alignment that it wasn’t his fault. This was b*ll, as he checked it over when I dropped it into him.
I ended up replacing the tube (down tube) it was a lugged frame so a real bitch of a job. Ben, I think you contributed to the thread on the velo salon forum. I bodged it and whilst not pretty I have since ridden it for 1500 kms and it’s still holding, but number 2 is approaching completion and I’ll be buying the tools to finish it myself.

In your case, I’d try the tube block approach, the seat tube is less stressed than the down tube in my case and I had a pretty serious crease, which defo wouldn’t pop out.
I learnt a whole load about frame building from replacing that one tube, the most important lesson being to be self sufficient and save for the right tools!

I have a Super C barley, perfect for my commute, change of clothes, plus tubes / tools / mini pump and a jacket. Quite a bit of room left over as well.
I started using it without a bagman, and found it too far tilted back when strapped to the seat post (hitting my legs, plus I didn’t trust the outer pockets to be very secure when tilted at 45 degrees) and without strapping it to the seatpost it swayed too much.
So I got a QR bagman without the wire support, mostly for the quick release aspect, and then bent some 5mm steel rod into an appropriate shape to stop it tilting back – the pockets are now back to the horizontal position. I didn’t bother with the bottom support that the proper bagman has cos I think the Barley is small enough that it’s self supporting. It also looks neater when the bag isn’t attached.
Worth nothing that if you buy the bagman QR without the wire support, it’s exactly the same as the wire support version, but without the wire support, sounds obvious, but it has the holes (already threaded) so you can add your own support if you need to later.
I’d post a photo up, but I don’t have one handy, I totally rate the carradice stuff, really like and the super C barley is classic looking without the tedious buckles!

not sure whats going on there, but i’ve pictures from one of those feeds and an english commentary from a different one….

thanks!

that cricfree link jamie, it loads for a split second then jumps straight to some super deals site…..is this just me or is it borked for anyone else?

I had the same problem.

Build a collar of plasticine or similar around the seat clamp area (if there is a clamp or bolt, then take it off / out completely – leave the seat on tho’) Form the plasticine so that it makes a kind of dam / reservoir around the post / seat tube junction and fill it with coke. Keep the bike upright, and keep topping it up. It will probably take a few days….top it up each morning and each evening. The aim is to keep coke trickling down into the gap between frame and post, apparently the galvanic corrosion is dissolved by the coke.

When you’ve run out of coke and / or patience, turn the bike upside down, clamp the seat in a vice / workmate etc then using the frame as leverage, twist the thing back and forth. If it works, it will probably make a horrible noise like you’ve ripped the frame in half as the seal breaks, then you’ll need to pull and twist it out at the same time.

When you have the seat post out, throw it in the bin and put in a proper metal one!

Good luck!

My off road / road commuter frame,
Columbus steel, cast lugs, brass brazed, in the garage with an oxy/propane setup.

[/url]
DSC_2997[/url] by yandlem1[/url], on Flickr[/img]

[/url]
DSC_2995[/url] by yandlem1[/url], on Flickr[/img]

After a disaster with the down tube, I had to chop off half the head tube / down tube lug and fillet braze it on. It looks like the downtube is held on with chewing gum!!
Painted with rattle cans, it looks OK, but I dont expect it too last…

(I also made the jig!)
[/url]
DSC_2610[/url] by yandlem1[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Where / how is everyone planning on watching it?

Mines a work in progress (has been for about 6 months!!!)

The tubes are cut, but not joined yet, here I’ve just finished the bottle bosses on the down and seat tubes and just checking for alignment etc.
Similar story, rattlecad, 80/20 jig (copied from mtbr frame forum) but I’m brass brazing mine with lugs. Got the newbie kit from Ceeway (peter at ceeway is incredibly helpful and patient!!)
Its going to be a 700c drop barred “bike” for road / off road etc…not a cross race bike but cross capable. Hopfully have it finished this year….

anyone know of a live ticker feed online?
cant find anything on the beeb or cycling news.

I’ve run rocket ron clinchers tubeless on Mavic CXP 33’s without too much trouble.
I needed to go to the garage across the road to get the bead to seat, and it took a couple of nights of adding sealant, spinning, leaving overnight and topping up to get the sidewalls fully sealed up. But once sealed they were great, burped the rear once during a race but still had plenty of pressure to finish (without having to slow down).
Defo saved me a DNF at least once, juding by the sealant spray up my back at the end of one race!

Would be interested in other’s experiences, as was thinking I’d need some more mud-specific tyres and wasnt sure what would work well…

Thanks, will drop them a mail and check it out before i randomly pull stuff apart!

The pdf itenary shows “TS de Crusaz” chair lift up from Morzine to Les gets, I know the pleney cable car is closed for the summer, but does this mean there’s a separate chair lift up from morzine?
I’d read earlier that there would be a bus uplift from Morzine to les gets, but only for PPDS.

Anyone know where the chairlift is and when its open? (and if its actually real??!!!)

Yep, mine is 27.2mm, but its def litespeed, I have the welding checklist tag that came with it, bought in Aug 08

In fairness I’ve been dealing with silverfish already and they have been great and really helpful, it seems the problem is further up the chain. Thanks for the help, hopefully will get it sorted, I love that bike :(