Cynic – After doing calculations I would need a ~240 rotor and I am less keen to design my own rotor than I am my own hubs, they also do (with the given weights) have more energy to get rid of (~5% more) and the equivalent of a 360 rotor would help me to stop on a ten pence piece (and dissipate heat much better). Also as ben noted in the previous thread, “just because” is more than enough reason, its going to be ridiculous, why not take it a step up?

Ben – The appear to be OEM only (according to tektros website)

Oli – Yep, 3 bb7’s will manage fine, like 1 bb7 on a 360mm rotor then 1 on a 180mm rotor, atleast I would be saving a lot of weight by going tubeless 😉

Considering costs for a singlespeed version are edging towards 1k without these tyres then I don’t think buying an extra front hydro brake is really what I need, although could be interesting, bb7’s would be much simpler and have no lack of stopping power (based on jeds campus bike). Its going to be an absolute pig whichever way I do it.

Taki – I am doing all the work myself so that wouldn’t be a huge issue to do as you describe (although I wouldn’t like to weld heat treated ally) but I can only get deore in QR and I am intending to custom make a 15mm axle as a QR is unlikely to be stiff enough. SLX is double the price and its cheaper to do the work myself from billet than it would be to chop up two SLX hubs.

Coatesy – Cheers man, caliper selection is limited, using a splitter from a mechanical lever means BB7s or nothing really.

Sorry also for the hijack – Close ups on my blog and larger versions of the same images here and yes they are midges

edit: it was all done freehand

BW – I am 6’4″ and the frame is a 21″ (XL), I have it set up for my measurements and it is the same position as my geared crosser and my mtb now.

I run my Surly KM with monster bars and a 60mm stem, means my position after a fit is perfect and I am huge.

It works lovely!

Nah man, back on the work from monday I am afraid, 200 hours to fit in between now and the 3rd of march, ill pop round on it when I drop the drawings off 😉

Cantis were a tenner for the set and mounting kit off of here, hard to pass up on, even with cantis! When I asked the coaters what a clear would look like, they said it could turn it a bit grey (they showed me a white fleck with clear coat) and it looked a bit naff, plus it would have smudged, so it was all done, then topped up and neatened as the tape was applied.

I think its ace, rides like a dream, on the road (yet to ride offroad on this badboy, it will be at SSUK though) and everyone in the club loves it, especially the inside jokes (offside chain stay, bars? cranks?).

niche# not nice!

paul – because otherwise youd probably foul the spokes.

faustus – having spoken to my favourite wheel builder he said he has seen similar builds and they have been fine, see mountian unicyclists and the stuff they ride, with 14 gauge stainless spokes I should be fine. I am also thinking of running 120 up front.

Thanks ben, looks like its custom or bust then. or 120 front axle.

Alex – I plan on making it not un-rideable in terms of handling and braking. If I can buy the tubes then beauty may come into it, may not though, some pretty shoddy looking 36″ers around.

That is the absolutely most ridiculous thing I have ever seen. which hubs did you butcher? (look like hopes)

After some quick calculations I have found that actually I have ~250% more energy to lose with 36″ wheels (5% increase with a rider on in linear terms at 20mph), so I think my requirement for dual discs isn’t un-sensible when I could run dual 180’s to dissipate the heat and reaction forces more evenly, and less funny things happening on the stanchions. The traction at the wheel isn’t a concern considering the expected contact patch and weight transfer.

but that would be front and rear, so I would have a stone extra to stop and slow (I think your forgetting how awesome it would look as well 😀 ), but based on the trouble it looks like I am going to have to go with a large rotor and some massive 4 pot calipers.

But the wheel weight will matter, especially that far from the hub, I could get the same force at the tyre with a 220 rotor but that wouldn’t slow me down as quickly because my wheels and bike (~20kg estimate) are that much heavier, at the same speed as a 26″ I would have more energy to get rid of so I would brake significantly slower for the same tyre force. Even though it will have a lower rotating speed if its a pig to get up to speed it will be a pig to slow.

I weight 85kg on a good day.

TL – Ill give them a look, might be worth it, if not Ill just have to make my own.

edit:

Jamie – absolutely, but this will take actual designing and not geometry robbing like my current 29er project.

clubber – based on what ive read its either double disc, 4 pot w/ 210 rotor or 2 pot with custom rotor and mount. Considering the tyres weight 1.6kg, the rims weight 1.1kg and thats the rotating mass, its a lot to try to stop with one rotor, I would definately risk overheating riding downhill, even rotor warping at that kind of temp.

non-drive side will be a standard IS mount, driveside will be as per roadrat fork (to even out the braking forces through the axle)

CA – I see it has been done, hence the interest

Stoner – Not a bad idea actually.. I like it.

Clubber – I doubt hope would be up for it but once I’ve done some cad there cant be any harm in asking I suppose. The project will involve a pair of 36″ wheels each weighing in at around 5kg each, I would quite like to stop at some point so dual 180’s on the front (with bb7’s) and a 180 on the rear (4pot zee) should give me ample stopping power, someone has done custom dual disc with 210 rotors either side and nearly snapped their stem by grabbing too much brake so 180 would be ample.

Not sure about your wheels as I don’t run disc.

As far as your 1×10 with an mtb cassette I have heard the 9spd mechs work with the new 10spd sti shifters but I have no exprience of this set up (I explored it a bit when I wanted to run a 36 at the back).

My suggestion would be run sram kit and get a RH apex lever as that is compatible with their 10spd road stuff and you can then get a clutch mech which I imagine is something you want running a 1x system. I ended up going sram over bodging shimano stuff as now all my bikes run sram and it makes it easier for carrying spares.

Another bonus of sram stuff is their slogan should be “shifts through shit” because ive ridden it in some horrid conditions and its not missed a beat since it was installed and set up at my LBS.

I wouldnt be comfortable running a bar mounted shifter as you woudl have to get off of the hoods to change gear and you may be riding on something techy at the time.

1 vote for keswick YHA, lovely rooms, nice hostel.

I would avoid the Lanefoot farm campsite at all costs, I camped there once and at the first sight of rain we had to sleep in the car because our tent added another lake to the district, not a well draining field at all.

I run solidworkds, Nx 7.5, Nx 8.5, autodesk and matlab all from my 6gb laptop (with i5 processor) and dedicated graphics card (with an extra 1gb of ram) and they all work perfectly, a little slow but thats because its a laptop. cost me £500 new down from a grand but the equivalent tower would be better I imagine.

I’m not a tool maker and I am certainly not able to get hold of a lathe (if you had have asked at easter id be more able to help), but that drawing you have posted isn’t it going to be pretty tough to get the thread down an 8mm blind hole? the tap will bottom out before you get a decent cut through the depth, or atleast with the taps ive been able to use.

Is it the correct width rim tape?

If you look at the columbus website on their tubes you can buy sets that they recommend for different things. You then buy the BB and or ht from ceeway, they replied to me within the day and I am just waiting for a reply from columbus. Then you just mitre it.

Guy in the club here in lufs runs a single ring, bash and chain catcher, I think he runs 10spd shimano up front and the 9spd mtb stuff on the rear (back me up oli racing?). If you have sram stuff why not run the sram clutch mechs (as im running a long cage x7 on my cx bike at the moment for the 1:1) and then run a chain catcher and spaced bash?

I am still going to keep the 2×10 for a long while on my cross bike as its also my road bike and 1×10 for road would be less than ideal.

I run 80psi front and rear in my 33c clinchers, the grips pretty good because the tyres are fantastic but it is unforgiving, just taught me to ride well for the 3pcx last year without pinching. My reasoning is that I had flatting more than I do being thrown around.

edit: I don’t recommend this for races, it drops to ~40 for races.

You dont have to use the bike tubes to practice miters, just get some down pipe and practice it?

However from my 2 day research I have found the following
Reynolds[/url] – Direct
Columbus tubing – Through Ceeway
4130 Cromoly – not the only distributor by any means, not sure its butted either
DIN4130 (same as cromoly?) – alibaba
I cant find a tange prestige distrubutor in the uk, or a true temper distributor (they seem to have gone out of buisness).

Steel is real oli!

I take it there are no issues with brazing the different alloyed tubes together then? My brazing knowledge is limited to automotive and zone application with things like dip sticks as opposed to frame tubes.

I like the feature tube idea, that is a definate option.

Mick R – Those look lovely!

BC – could you recommend am alloy and flux? Or should I be looking at charts to figure that one out? the bottom bracket and head tube will not be reynolds.

Yeah I did nathan, but it is lovely when its finished!

TIL – dont use stainless offroad, choose 853 and braze the shit out of it.

I do intend to polish the crap out of it and leave it unpainted, was more the corrosion resistance I was keen on.

Shit man, stainless seems like a lot of effort, maybe ill go back to a standard steel and braze that then.

edit: BC – I did see you mention that on the thread that got me interested and researching it, even with stainless, its a bit of an alien alloy to me, I usually work with mild or 6061.

Well that would be my first mistake then, I haven’t seen anything flying around that is contrary to thoughts.

Another reason I was against TIG was because I do not have the ability to internally flush the tube with argon during welding. Any suggestions on that front if i do have to go with tig?

I would be using brass solder (with flux already wrapped around the rod) instead of silver solder due to the cost of the silver.

I reckon the crown race would tap on until its stuck, probably would preload, they just wanted a bit more stack height without buying spacers.

Wombat – My dad did the same thing and asked me “why is my chain making funny noises?” Exactly the same.

How do you go about the drop outs? Do you buy the drop outs in or make them yourselves? Fillet brazing wouldnt be an issue for me (I can braze better than I can TIG).

Jonm81 – where did you get the materials from?

Brazing is strong enough for mtb? I may have to give this a go then. Mainly commenting to bookmark this for later.

edit: my main concern has always been the chain and seat stays, they look difficult to do.