You can easily drive to guisborough from whitby along the coast road. Good tracks there, quite a few bridleways running through the woods and some purpose built track by the locals. Bit lumpy on a cross bike.

This is exactly what I was looking for, couldn’t find one when I had a look. So I am building one.

I… I… really like it… Big fan of flared drops anyway, super comfy and great for leverage. Also big fan of the fat bike utility aspect. winning combo in my opinion!

Also really enjoyed this, makes me want to go bike packing now…

Based purely on my housemate experience tubeless is terrible for cross unless you have tubeless specific rims. Even running 60psi to he managed to cut a hole in the side wall when he hit a root.

Equally I saw someone on the 3pcx blow his tyre up on a set of iron cross wheels because he was using non-tubeless tyres (land cruisers) and ridiculous pressures.

If you are using a tubeless tyre on your tubeless rim it might be ok, lowest a guy in the club runs them is 40psi I think and he burps occasionally.

Id vote tubular for racing, but clinchers (non-tubeless) for standard riding.

Bump because I have the same dilema and am pretty set on the zocchs but if anyones against it…

Another one to check out is manitou tower pros, they look very nice and have great reviews, not sure on reliability though, no one seems to run them long enough to find out.

Neds forks are niner carbon jobbies? No idea on the others, I am rubbish at this.

I run X7 on my CX and X9 on my mtb, both type 2. Had my x9 stiffen up (not due to the clutch though) so I took it apart and packed it full of a load of grease.

The only times ive had any issues with them is because I was being a clart and filled them with grass to the point of seizure or smashed it on a rock. Plenty of harsh miles on my frames, I am very mechanically unsympathetic as a few people on this forum could certify.

The type 2 mechs are fantastic. I don’t know where you’ve got this insane idea that theyre rubbish from.

If your bar end shifter is indexed (not sure about bar end shifters) I would be ~90% confident in saying it wouldnt work.

Any sram bar end shifter will work with any sram clutch mech (assuming the mechs are the same pull ratio) as they have compatibility across the range.

IIRC you dont get 9 speed clutch mechs.

**** hard is the best way to describe it. Nothing can prepare you for how steep hardknott is.

The guy I rode with was a right PITA as we were riding up kirkstone and I was blowing out my ring piece he was having a casual chat with me saying “looks like were not even half way up” whilst I mutter “shut the f*ck up jed”. Yes it was tough. But you will make it round if you take enough food and take it easyish.

When I did it (i.e. to misses drew all over it for me) we found that a standard sharpie was pretty terrible, it was wet for a very long time and made it difficult to draw with. A pentel permanent marker was used instead and worked pretty well, although can and does smudge w/o any protection on it.

I did try to get industrial sharpies but they didnt turn up in time. If you make sure the surface is clean then you can easily draw over it. Then stick some helitape over the top of it then it will be golden for ages. Cleans mud off easily as well.

Other pictures and the process on the link oli posted above (thanks oli ;))

My single speed surly karate monkey with custom artwork more pictures on my (shameless plug) blog

The only good thing about bb30 in my opinion is how cheap the bottom bracket bearings are. £12 for brand new stainless bearings?! Yes please!

As above it can all be done with a hammer and a screwdriver really. Freeze the bearings and flannel the BB then put warm water over it to help expand it (thanks for those tips mike) then it all goes on lovely, although I used superstars tool to do it.

At work we put gaffa tape over the exhaust ports to stop anything falling down it. It was reassembled and when turned over we were all very confused as to why it wouldnt crank. Then someone spotted a corner or tape..

Id contact stephen shaw at inverse (a bloke in derby for the spanish company). Minimum order of 15 units , min of 5 each garment (jersey etc). Good bloke, all the loughborough cycling kit is made by them for the past 3 years. Plenty of adjustability.

Mol – FSA afterburner triple. My FSA comet cranks didnt either. Not following the instructions was my problem. Im a man, I dont need instructions I said, Thats a weird feeling I said.

Lack of green, very disappointed 🙁

Look like lovely wheels though, anyone know the prices?

Malvern – Can you helicoil it? After you get it off that is 😛

Molgrips – mine dont have pinch bolts, instructions say 40nm on the preload

nicko – thankfully not, however I think I am overqualified, based on my track record, to build wheels for dave hinde. All my fails are on my own bikes, im a bit more careful if its anyone elses 😉

I don’t own a torque wrench so I am completely ham fisted, I also grease everything (not any more, I use copper slip, assembly paste and grease) so these are a mixture.

Rounded all the bolts off on a ritchey stem, the heads are made of cheese, I swear. Ive got round it by not greasing the bars.

Snapped carbon seat post. (being ham fisted)

BB30 cranks fell off because I didnt have the spanner to tighten the preload so did it by hand, it did not work.

Didnt check if my tyre was seated proceeded to pump them up to 60psi before they furiously unseated and spread sealant evenly all over the garage.

edit: extra bonus, filled a clutch master cylinder with 15W40 for a project at work, all the seals swelled and it no longer moves, no leaking though..

When they work its great, but mine work less often than do. I have never been able to get the BB on my boardman (BB30) to not be noisey, couple that with what I consider to be poor sealing and a poor design (what happens when you push off enough material you can no longer press fit?) I would burn all the press fit standards with fire. Would avoid at all costs but if the frame was fantastic I would get conversion bearings.

In comparison I have ridden my cross bike with a HT2 bottom bracket more and in worse conditions and I have never touched it, and it was second hand and had already completed lots of riding with the previous owner.

Of course there is going to be a tolerance, you can’t have it perfect, that’s not going to happen but 4mm is way way off anything sensible. Is 3500 small claims? I wouldn’t call 3500 small but maybe in the grand scheme of things.

Bikehike for planning, etrex 30 for the unit. Only just got my etrex 30 but used it a few times now and its been faultless, along with the bikehike online software, all very nice. I do agree with matt about having a map as a back up, especially if you live in the area, useful for all sorts.

I have some bibs that are black, some bibes that are purple, white and black (team kit), jersey that is black, white, yellow and red (2be jersey), then 3 other jerseys that are purple, white with bits of red green and orange thrown in.

Done at the campion hills 4x track in leam, I’m not very good.

Also broken seatpost, shattered a pedal, frame and two saddles.

You won’t get a decent re-bond either, your best bet will be pinch bolts like on dual crown forks. If you smack it with a hammer enough times it should come out but may damage the steerer, no idea how you would get stanchions out but “carefully” is my guess.

I love it, go there with my dad everytime I get chance. Probably 4-5 times a year. Sometimes on my 120ht but more recently on my cross bike as Ive had limited bike storage space but another set of wheels is easy to fit in to ride the roads. Its a good slog out, take between 2.5 hrs to 5 hrs depending on how much or a beast you are.

No leaking oil yet, resale value is annoying but not a huge issue. Ill just pull them apart as soon as I can and change the seals and oil then!

Northwind – I could but I don’t want to be ‘that guy’, I know I’ve been hard on the components, not serviced it enough and I don’t want to even try as I would be wasting their and my time (plus jts a boardman from halfords).

They have been serviced twice since new. About 6 months ago now.

Probably one of the reasons they are quoting £370 is because they know exactly what to do and what to buy.

It depends entirely on the level you want, you will need a shifter, a rear mech, chainring, chain, cassette, inner, outter and maybe a wheel (maybe not depending on what you have already). Prices would vary from I think ~100 to up to what you have mentioned depending on group set level.

No one can give you a definitive list because it all depends on your preference and your current components. None of which anyone knows about.

TL;DR yes you can do it cheaper than that, but you need to know what you are doing and reading up on 1x set ups etc. will help you find out what you are doing.

Cynic-al
The 4 cross is based mainly on trying to build a stiff a wheel as possible, penny farthing riders seem to use 4/5 cross most (although some use up to 7 cross) to build a strong wheel over that diameter. Seems the most sensible idea to me, more cross -> stronger wheel, especially if I am using the equivalent of a 360mm disc.

It is a pretty large assumption, I admit but its either that or my even crazier idea that I am trying to figure out of a positive pressure brake booster system, which will produce many OTB moments.

Kevs
Looks pretty similar to the one I’ve seen as well. Have you ever had it fitted? How well does it/does it not clear the caliper??

I did it just to relax upon, I hated it because I have ridiculously ticklish feet, just an hour of twitching feet for me!

kevs, something like this I assume, it could solve my 4 cross spoke length issues.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/nuvinci-disc-brake-adapter-IMG30971.jpg

I think you need some purple crest stickers to finish it all off 😉

Not sure at all, working off the assumption of larger piston area at the calipers so would be more suited to run two than the standard lever. Not an unfair assumption I dont think, hopes bores seem similar although that doesnt mean jack all about the piston area depending on the design as Ive never had one apart.

An update with graphs, drawing and picture on where I am at the moment. But making my bike frame jig had priority at the moment!

You could always measure it.

In Nuneaton there is a hand car wash at a garage with the slogan of “Best hand job in town!” written on a car that they drive around a bit as well.

Everyone needs speed holes! Produces negative drag according to treks wind tunnel testing.