That very frame. Inbetween seat botle bosses, needed to hold it somewhere to ream the seat post, now is shaped like a negativenof a work stand clamp.

Shand – Forgot to say thanks for you for giving me some advice on brasing earlier in the year after I asked! Those bosses are using silver as are the cable bosses.

Mick – Thanks, ASAP I hope, just getting the last bits in, shouldnt be long at all now… Going to be mental.

Ben – It stretches over the wheel lovely so ill leave it at that I think! Also thanks 🙂

Appears (as has been pointed out elsewhere) that I have used brass on the rotor bracing instead of using silversolder, forgot they were stainless rotors! Oops. Not worried about the brake brace holding as there is plenty of brass to hold it in place and it did take well to the rotor so it may split off but not a major concern in my eyes. The seat stay brace may come off but thats not a huge cocern either, cotic solaris doesnt!

llatsni – Frame costs £490 in materials. The jig cost a further £150 but is adjustable so can use it for other projects of sell it if I need to! Obviously these aren’t including time else the prices would be quite a bit higher!

ton – It will be getting the 853 decal and a head tube decal, but both will be pretty small in comparison to the decals that usually go on a bike!

mark – I was tempted yes, but kept taking too much off then having to add more, not as easy as it first sounded or looked!

Mark, I stole that idea from chickens frame emporium, I am not an original person!

Got this bad boy as my next frame, 142×12 rear end, 44mm head tube, 29er.

Not the best looker in the world but its my baby.

Well assuming you already have a 10spd shifter, 2 of these things are unnecessary. You don’t need a cassette expander just because its trendy. Dont need a NW ring, guide rings are pretty good, or buy the SS one. Don’t have to buy a new rear mech but it does help!

Personally I think you are just pricing yourself out it before you consider the simplicity of it and it looks neater/removes a cable. No other reasons in my opinion.

The issue with the flux is that it is an acid based flux, so unless neutralised or removed can cause corrosion itself, removing the rust is pretty useless on the internal tubes and the frame saver prevents any extra internal rust past the surface rust.

I did not use fairy liquid, saw nothing mentioned as such on other forums when searching for it. Id struggle rodding some of these tubes! External brushing is easy just the ineternals will be a pita.

That dog loved every second of that!

Cant believe you have to replace the whole drop out… Give nukeproof a call? Borrow a bike? I have plenty of hangers, all for PMW 142×12 drop outs though.

The whole drop out? Or the hanger? I also didnt realise they were universal! Even then there is shimano or DT isnt there?

Doing custom jobs?

Not my work bench is the issue here ben, honest!

Neil, the build is a hopefully time proof steel (obviously) XL 29er. 44mm diameter 120mm long head tube, 3 sets of bottle bosses, 142×12 rear drop out, rear triangle geometry as such; 450 chain stay w/ 73.5deg seat angle, 55mm BB drop. 70 deg head angle with a 490ATC measurement (for rigid forks with a external Hope H cup), will also run a 100mm fork up there at some point. Will also have a 630mm ETT with ~540mm seat tube. I could link you to previous posts or to blog spam but I’ll save you the boredom 😆

edit: and a standard threaded BB shell, none of this press fit rubbish.

It definitely closes up using a piece of paper, its a perfect mitre, just not in perfect alignment I think. Yes the TIG TAC seems like the best idea I’ve heard so far..

Obviously, hard to tell if I am honest.

Fillet brazed, not confident with TIG.

I personally don’t see the issue in swithland seen as its got a few bridleways in it, I’ve never had anyone say anything to me (ranger or otherwise) whilst riding in there, other than “that looks uncomfortable!” on the cross bike.

I understand the desire for us to not ride in bradgate as its a bloody nice place but they would stop most of the illegal riding by putting a run or two in, in my opinion anyway.

Seems to boil down to dont be a giant willy.

They are fine whilst riding, just once they have been there for a while they get bloody itchy and keep me awake often, which is a right PITA

I reckon worst nonsense that could make it to market with enough waffle.

Make your own? Mines going to cost 450 and I am getting the exact spec that I want. No compromise then.

Where are you seeing these non-round wheels?

On a serious note, open pros on 105s?

I am not going to give you the dimensions but this will help and will get you there.

Do chainrings, even SS and track ones, not have chamfers on them in case the chainline is not perfect? How would you intend to do that or just do it with a file?

100% want, even though I am not a huge fan of fatties.

Clement PDX’s pumped up to 80 psi? good for offroad too, especially if muddy, best tyre ive ever used.

Snake bite in the rear wheel on the edge of RAF Fylindales on a drizzly september afternoon on a cross bike. Forgot to mention this was ~75 miles into a attempted dirty 100 mile ride and I had thought I had broken my ankle shortly before this point and was seriously bonking. Damn the ride back was really tough.

Looks lovely, that’s the best colour on a bike imo. HOWEVER, think you need some purple decals for those rims!

I have been brutalising my open pros on 105 hubs,they are perfect, done many laps of dalby, a lot of general offroad and 3pcx, so are bloody bomb proof!

Hope with too much grease? If its bathed in grease it will be silent, bonus silence if you forget to pop the labyrinth seal back in.

I remember my formula hubs being silent on my old wheels, the ambrosia hubs on my dads roadie are pretty silent as well (although not disc).

I’d go with kingdom bikes (custom). Schmiken of these parts has a very nice bike by them, rides well (from the ride around a pump track I had).

Enigma seem to make some lovely stuff.

Learn to weld?

Might struggle other than that.

If it is anything like my etrex 30, put it in the tracks folder then you can overlay it from there

For the rigid 29+ supporters, can you run the tyres on standard rims tubeless? I.e. on flows/arches or similar?

Dantsw – The minute is the 26″ flavour of the towers as far as I am aware – EDIT: My bad, seems your right!

Looks like xfusion slides are now also on the list.

I’ve found a 15mm thru axle, tapered steel rigid fork which will probably be going on first, if not some pretty simple straight QR forks will be going on there until I get the money to buy some squish (unless they are good enough to ride everything with anyway).

Gazc, that was my plan to start with. At £80 for a very capable rigid fork and a fat 2.35 ron I can happily ride that to save me some money until a more complete build is available. Also as you mention, its next to 0 maintenance.

Wont have finished building the frame until late august I am afraid, I imagine you will have sold them by then!

Never looked at X fusions, do they have a good reputation for durability and pretty good performance?

Slackman, as I havent built the frame yet id like to hold off buying second hand until I know what steerer length id need!

Dish is out. Take it to a shop (is what id do) or try re-dish it yourself.

I run a 32-15 as my offroad gear, I can make it around everything on the other singlespeed gear of 34-13 but its pretty steep. Both are find offroad on flats, the second pretty steep on hills but good on the road as well. Loughborough area, not flat but not the hilliest that’s for sure.

My time to shine (again)

Surly Karate Monkey set up as a rigid dinglespeed.

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