Mick – used carb cleaner, and as you just posted that thought id check it, no mention of such gasses on here (thankfully!), only harmful to breath in vapours and get in touch with skin, thankfully.

Just to keep you all updated

Clear duct tape

3 layers, one on each rim bead and one in the centre

Lighter and an allen key to poke the hole through (to cauterise it)

Cauterised hole

Its a knard on a marge light rim. I have not been allowed on the ukfat forum as of yet, my membership is pending. It works fine, just need to build a trail side tubeless kit of propane and matches.

Just tried it pre-video and it works. So I will video it when there’s an extra pair of hands!

Also tried the tie strap (a fat inner tube) and a co2 catridge, no luck! I am using the gaffa tape method.

james, as far as I am aware from my extensive research you spray a flammable aerosol in there and light that, then try to equalise the pressure as quickly as possible. If you can aerosol meths, sure but dont think it will burn as a liquid quick enough.

You need the rapid expansion of gas, think compressor but fun.

I was until recently, more by nessecity than by choice, I bought the BB, tool and a set of crank arms for £30 from a mate so couldnt think of an excuse not to use them.

It started becoming an issue for me when I couldn’t find any decent reasonably priced BB’s with good reviews. So I bought a set of SLX’s off of ebay with a hope BB for £70 all in and thats what ill be using from here on in.

After 6 I am afraid, I have the video of my and him trying to stamp the fire out (which, surprise surprise makes it worse) but would prefer to have the “correct inflation method” on video as well before I upload both.

When my housemate gets home it will be filmed, using a combination of seating one side and then exploding the tyre on. Like I said the front went on so easy, I tubelessed it in ~10 mins total, it was great but the rear is being a real pain in the backside.

edit: with the oxy-acetelyne, that will burn long after the tyres seated! I want to seat the bead, not destroy the rim.

Having set the tyre on fire twice now (having to put it out with a hose/watering can) I would rather get it right this time! I do also have a video of me panicking trying to put the tyre fire out, turns out stamping on the tyre is not the correct method.

Who the hell uses a 140mm front hub standard? and a 180mm rear hub?! Yay OEM.

Not sure if they are the same EBB’s but I think you can buy the bushness-EBB’s from ceeway HERE but you have to e-mail them to ask for a price.

I went for something a bit different, I did my Surly karate monkey up as a dingle speed with a road and offroad gear, it did end up with CX tyres on the wheels and made its most famous (and last) appearance as such at the SSUK beer tent. More pictures here

Complete build.

Dingle close up

Another dingle close up

I can see how it closes but no idea how it opens! I may also try to have a go..

force it on, thats how i did it with mine.

peachos – not in the week I had to do it, but I am intending on doing that.

SOM – Indeed it does, at least my dads happy with it eh?

craig – You use a QR clamp, its not a pogo seatpost when its clamped.

danny – I agree but again, with practice I think that will become pretty easy, I wouldnt expect the saddle to rotate much if your sitting down on it. I am pretty sure he wants it for something like bike park wales where theres a massive flat section at the top and a little bit at the bottom so you could do it along those.

nd – 😆 Fortunately its a fixed travel strut so that’s as high as it will go, could get more force but if I did I think it would be like slamming a saddle into your nuts.

picton – can do it on the fly (at least thats the plan)

nick – didnt know you could get them that cheap, Id have been tempted as well if I knew, but where’s the fun in buying when you can make it?

nemesis – Don’t think that would work to return the saddle to the same position as conditions got worse as you’d have a variable force. Gas struts are fixed force over their travel (near enough)

wwaswas – yep, with practice it should be fine, its not for me its for my dad and he didnt fancy spending a huge amount on a dropper so I said Id make him one.

woody – the idea is that with a QR you can do it without stopping, and it puts it to the same height each time if your fussy about that kind of thing

Robin – exactly like one of those, couldn’t find one of those and my dad didnt want something external.

nemesis – pretty long spring youd have to have there!

P20 – they gave me enough money to make me go away for ever. Which is nice!

ds3000 – should know by tomorrow! If it stays intact. Carpark test says stiff as a very stiff thing.

Eulach – it wasnt amazigly difficult either, did most of the filing with sand paper and the tube to mitre it to. Yes I did, a HS1 rotor to be exact that, stole the idea from chickens frame emporium!

dunstick – because it fits me, unfortunately I also knew very little about geometry when I started this build and hopefully the next one will be a lot better in that sense.

dobo – probably, its a 410 post, certainly a lot more post than there was in my boardman, about 3″ more and its no way near the limit (of the post).

Ill be back tomorrow nathan, more than welcome to have a thrash on it then! (also having a takeaway, join us)

I have named all my bikes, there was Beatrix the boardman, Surly Suzie, Rosie (fat bike, because there’s a whole lot of her), fanny the forme, Rachel the raleigh. Infact the only one I haven’t named is the one I’ve built myself.

I had a set of shimano 105 hubs on mavic open pros, were £220 from merlin at the time, they took one hell of a beating and the bearings feel fine. Front wheel only gave up after I put my knee through it.

I won a surly pugsley at SSUK for breaking and open pro rim with my knee.

One of the guys around these parts dropped his bike/wheel on the ground, a spoke snapped and the nipple went through the rim tape on his tubeless wheel and no amount of stans in the world could fix it. Id say you were lucky!

Yeah I was mocha, I have an ISIS bb and crankset that ill use instead, can choose a BB to fit the chainline then, just need the chainrings.

I should indeed clink, trying to get a frame in a size where I dont need a 180 stem and 550 post!

I realise I am a bit late to the party here (being 4 days after the event but only just back to civilisation) but wanted to say thanks for a cracking first ssuk, will definitely be going to ssuk15 next year with the nice SS pugsley (again, thanks!). Cheers taz and keef, not nearly as shonky as I was lead to believe it would be.

p.s. anyone have any before and after photos of my ‘repair’ on the wheel?

I got some custom decals done recently, they got back to me within 24 hours when I sent them my designs, then another 24 hours until they replied again asking me to send them slightly different designs.

Proof came through within 3 days of payment, the decals came through within a week.

Id certainly use them again for anything.

Sorry for the hijack, but I didnt think this question warranted a separate thread!

The measurements on the ISIS bottom brackets is what? The axle length? I havent been able to find really.

Just spoken to them and they want a local frame builder to look over it, which is fair enough, to see if they agree with keiths (from reynolds) opinion that now he wouldn’t be happy with riding it on the rough stuff.

If the builder agrees with keith then they are paying for a like-for-like frame from said builder for me. If he doesnt then I am not sure where we go from there but I imagine some form of repair at their cost would be in order.

Superficial – 2.5kg is still heavier than a solaris, it was using the proper 853 front triangle tubes (and then pre-shaped zona rear triangle), thickest gauge that I could get in the widest diameter. Where they clamped it it was 0.5mm thick. Even with replacing the tube I wouldn’t be 100% with it as id have to re-soak it and re-frame saver, dont want to induce any more rust.

31.6 post, think ill get away with the seat post as I am massive anyway.

As ive already said, they have been really good about it so far so Im angry but not overflowing with rage. May well take ben up on the offer then make a carbon sheath to protect the area from impact in the future.

Mick_r, I checked their shop and they have a vice, I asked why he didnt clamp across the BB and his response was “well I had already faced it so did want to have to do it again”. Daymn son, could have avoided this by clamping it on the only bit you should be.

They also said they had a 44mm head tube reamer on 3 separate occasions and now apparently don’t. Not overly pleased.

Ben, I may be taking you up on that offer..

ndthornton – The shop claimed to have a 44mm head tube reamer (Which turns out they dont, even after 3 times being asked!) which is rare at best and the only shop within 100 miles of me that I can find to claim to have one. That reamer alone is £500 (Park tool), tool to use it? £200 (park tool). Tool for cutting and facing the threads? £70-150. Seat tube reamer? £150. I didnt fancy paying near a grand for a single frame.

Im going to have a chat with them today I think and try to sort something out in terms of compensation, who knows how it will work out to be honest!

edit: Piccies

Neil, as its my first ever frame ive built id like to salvage it asuch as possible.

Brant, thatbwas plan #1, but its past the bottle boss and butted to 0,5mm at that point (from 1.5) so would lilely not do a lot even if it could get past.

Pawsey – perhaps…

Mike, they are being really good about it, mechanic was visibly upset and the manager was willing to do anything really. They have offered to pay for any repair nessecary, hence why I am asking for options really, not sure how much of an involved repair I can get away with.

Its too far for tube blocks, it was 34.1m. Round and is now ~30mm square. Edit: over 75-100mm