Thanks guys, nice work on that Kinetics site.

Thanks leffeboy – only issue is the OEM switch (that I really want to use as it’s illuminated and integrated neatly) is a SPST.

Just to clarify in the pics – the halos are permanently on with ign which I want to keep. I can interrupt the LH dipped beam which is what I want to switch but with the switch LED ON when circuit is OPEN? Possible?? :)

Thanks guys.

I’m just going to ask one final (potentially daft) question – a much simpler mod some have done is to put a switch in the 12v + line to the dipped beam, this then leaves just the two halos lit.

Is there a way to have a switch with an inbuilt LED that of course illuminates the switch when the circuit is closed to be illuminated when the switch is *open*?! ie dipped beam OFF but switch LED on?

Thanks again to all, as ever the knowledge base on STW is superb.

If the unit really is sealed and not easy to swap out any damaged circuits then I would prefer to use a current limiter to dim the LED rather than PWM.

Yep, definitely sealed.

Err, sorry…can you explain more on current limiters?? :D

That’s the potential issue – it’s a big sealed unit at £700+!

That’s correct and the main issue. Upshot seems to be a high side switching PWM is needed, then it’s relatively simple.

I did post this in a couple of FB groups with not much input other than some saying it could damage the LED driver. Is this possible?

The only change to OEM spec seems to be the main beam trigger is being ‘pulsed’ rather than constant.

Thanks so much jairaj – let me take in and study all you have posted and I’ll come back. I was linked a high side PWM: https://www.abeltronics.co.uk/products/led-dimmer-rotary-potentiometer-controlled-pwm-12v-24v-10a-low-voltage/dim12

Hi jairaj – yes, in a nutshell. The ‘dimmed’ high beam is also switchable on/off independently and once the correct level of dim was set it would be left alone. It’s quite a common mod but much simper in the older days with conventional bulbs. Similar to the Skene unit here but these are not available in the UK and don’t work with all modern LEDs. https://www.skenelights.com/installation-iq-270-a

K – yes all tested and it is dimmable.

Again, awesome knowledge base on here.

I just searched up ‘mosfet’ on eBay to get the drawing.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224372484519

servo – not sure which diagram you are referencing? – are you saying my latest sketch (with added mosfet being controlled by the PWM and using + output from that to high beam LED) is the way (in the absence of finding a PWM that varies the +)?

I was not clear on the part here specifically: “The solution (as you have it above in your last diagram) is to just use the OP+ to drive the LED and don’t use the OP-. Now you have an output that drives current into your LED or not. LED current has a return through its 0V connection.”

In layman’s terms the LED always has ground connected (and I cannot change this) and as my PWM varies ground (not +) to switch my PWM is ineffective of course.

Thanks guys, super helpful. bigginge – they must be available off the shelf but I’m struggling to find something.

Zilog – thank you, it’s going beyond my knowledge but would it work something like this?

I don’t think that is possible or would work – it has reverse polarity protection on the PWM anyway according to specs?

This is an even more shoddy diagram of the OEM wiring.

Thanks crogthomas – it’s one of those annoying ‘Cyclops’ set ups with two lights (dipped/main) and halos but only dipped used as DLR so many bikers like to even it up by dimming the main beam as it were to even things up but not blind others too much.

But this needs to be a separate circuit so you can still hit high beam as normal with the OEM switch to give full output when needed.

Thanks Tom, basically the motor output (to my LED) affects the – output only. And as I can only easily tap into the + supply to the LED it has no affect. Please excuse the shoddy sketch and ignore the green – line (dimmer to high beam) as this is not workable.

Hope it is OK to give this a gentle bump…

Thanks again for the kind comments, rest assured all is normal and I will work with the new owners (if we find the right people) as a consultant for a year (planned) to aid continuity/tech back up etc.

Thanks Josh, that’s a few years back. Yes – a bit heavy but truly unbreakable.

Thanks all for the kind comments.

shermer75: that’s correct. :)

At 53 odd my wife and I are kind of past the ‘massive house trashing’ phase.

The sympathetic host has tried to help as much as possible by pre-approving the booking but the Airbnb corporation insist I comply or….you vill be shot…I guess

And a selfie too it seems FFS!

Just a reminder, you’ll need to add an ID by Jun 11, 12:23 PM BST to confirm your booking in xxxxx. This will help us check that you’re really you.

We match your selfie photo to the ID you gave us, to check that you’re really you. We use the selfie to verify your identity—it will not be posted to your profile or shared with hosts.

Once that verification is done, you’ll be all set to finish your reservation. If it is not done, the booking will have to be canceled.

https://www.airbnb.co.uk/help/article/1237/verifying-your-identity?c=.pi80.pkaWRlbnRpdHkvaWRlbnRpdHlfdmVyaWZpY2F0aW9uX3JlbWluZGVy&euid=47a7c6e1-6dcd-54cb-2b11-65e34370b0b7&_set_bev_on_new_domain=1623397430_MDM2ODA2MmQ0Yzk4

Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, it for the (motor)bike – I have offline maps but still need the data for occasional use, searches, traffic etc.

The 1p MB from Three looks the cheapest but not considered the idea of hotspotting to my main phone…

Thanks all – currently downloading maps for Scenic to try it.

Am I right in thinking I only get spoken directions if paying annual sub?

Tried a FS for about three months circa 2001 – been on the HT before and since.

Hmm, at first look seems a good idea but like most of these clever ideas sometimes it’s suffers too much from being not one thing or the other or not particularly great at either…

Just adding a trailer when needed to a ‘normal’ bike might be a better idea.

Some lovely examples above.

Below are some I picked up at a cycle jumble many years ago – some guy had a chest full of them. BITD all the old makers had great badges of course.

OP: WTF can you say about your life that you posted this topic. Surely it’s s trolling wind up?? Please?!?

I’ve done a fair bit of geeky measuring if it helps as considering popping a 27.5 on the rear of a 29er FS – obviously this is bike specific but on a typical average current geo FS popping a 27.5 on the rear in lieu of a 29er (with similar tyres) will drop the BB about 15mm and slacken angles about 1 deg.

Really if it’s just a touch up then Poundshop matt black will be fine. Even the matt is normally more satin than real Matt. Spray into the cap, let it evaporate a little (thicken) then apply with a cocktail stick.

Did not mention it was an EMTB either… :)

F*** me though – talk about polar opposites- when you’ve spent the last 18 years on SS hardtails, a really *hard* (Chameleon) tail with 2.3” tyres and you think I’ll just try this Levo with the motor off and 50% of your energy gets sucked into the suspension and another 25% goes into overcoming the colossal weight and drag whereas previously a slight push on the pedals propels you forward with 99% energy efficiency you start to think – hmmmm,maybe I’m getting old but let’s just delay the FS and EMTB a few more years yet…

Good find, and they do a 37t.

37/19 is a nice SS ratio.

(Important to those of us who like to have prime numbers front and rear)

Could not agree more – reason I asked for the 33t is because I’ve run nothing but 39/19 on my SS 26″ hardtail = 53.4 gear inches for 15 years now and it is the perfect gear for me and so smooth with tons of chain wrap. It’s my main bike and always has been – you get *very* comfortable in one gear after so much time! Not had any geared bikes in the stable since 2001 (bar a 2 speed Brompton) but contemplating a FS geared new build with 27.5 rear so only way to replicate the gear with the cassette I want and a 17t within is the 33/17 x 27.5 = 53.4.

What he said^^^.

Other odd thing is no Asian sellers on Aliexpress or eBay seem to be selling them ‘direct’ and undercutting CRC…(unlike most Chinese or Taiwan bike stuff – those Ztto dropper levers for example)

Only 32 on the website?

https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOSS/on-one-stainless-chainring

Ahh, never used NW so did not consider that.

Are these bladder dampers generally unreliable then? Looking at some take off Revs as s potential purchase that had the RCT3 damper upgrade (and travel increase to 160).

Sorry – missed that post somehow. Durrr.

Yes, the Syntace ones, like Welshfarmer said ^^^. I’m using one with a 170mm OneUp dropper – they’re 140mm long

Any link? – I cannot find them so far…

Why that length?

Just feel happier with all the support possible given the historical issues of shims and frame cracking…

Checked Planet X but 30.9 max.

Anyone got a source (in the UK) for 30.9 or 31.6 to 34.9 decent (ie long) shims?

Thanks all – seems from the lack of stock around the 502 has been discontinued?

I may still find them but will consider the 481s.

Can anyone recommend a wheel builder who might stock these together with Hope hubs?

If you’ve ridden the (admittedly old model now the new one has leaked) Bosch CX and endured the draggy hell it creates then any type of gearbox is not ideal which is probably why they have ditched it…

I’d agree that the last thing you want or need on an EMTB is a 10t at the high end with zero chain wrap and a 50t at the low end.

11-36 SLX cassette and Zee is what they should have IMHO – awesome low profile tough cheap little mech, all the gears you need on an EMTB and cheap/strong/light/compact.

But fashion dictates…