Sealed is sealed, why pull the thorn out?

Hopefully the characters will come to life a little more.

Well they do, and it takes time of course to uncover the backstories (a little, not a great deal – to a degree you’re left to fill it in yourself) and for the interactions to develop. The relationship between Lundt and Meyer was brilliantly played IMO.

And I can’t think of another series where the victim’s family are so prominent, that was new to me.

But I still recall that e1 was a pretty good indicator for the series as a whole, all the key elements were there.

It sounds to me like you’re disappointed because it’s not what you were looking for. Perhaps you should take it for what it is rather than what you wanted it to be.

One thing to bear in mind is the subtitling obliges a simplification of the dialogue, which looses some subtleties (I read somewhere, since I don’t speak Danish).

I don’t think it’s ‘quirky’ though – what it is is ‘foreign’ and that’s an essential part of its character.

I loved it and I’m pretty picky about TV.

The Danish version, yes – tho if you didn’t like e1 maybe it’s not your bag.

Haven’t seen the US version so can’t comment, other than to say start with the original!

bottle cage is fine

pic of mine:

also, hear the man above re tyre pressures

It’s you.

On my Blur Classic I’d sit and cruise, so the suspension could do its best. Yawn.

On my HT (steel frame, ti post, so a bit soft) I’m all over it, it’s a much more involving ride and WAY more fun.

Yeah it’s a bit erratic on a 3gs. It’s also free.

I go take a pic, it’s XT something.

Done, as advised this is a non-job. Pull out the QR interface, put in the 15mm interface (nice and straight).

The hubs have 6 months use and no previous service, the QRs just came straight off.

brill ta

If…if i go tubeless will have have to get a sealant kit or can i just get valves seeing that i have ust rims and tyres?

By all means do a dry run with no sealant but put some in before you go on the trail, then thorn flats will usually self-seal – otherwise a thorn flat will oblige you to put a tube in

What I usually do is get the tyre seated and inflated without the sealant, then deflate it, put sealant in through the valve hole, and reinflate, this has always worked for me,.

Mark I run Crest 26″

Some tyres won’t go on (reasonably) with a tube. That’s the way it is. I had to cut off a Maxxis ADvantage with a Stanley knife after a huge fight to get it on tubed. I cut it off because I would never have got it off the rim trailside, never. If you manage to get your Vulpine on eventually, will you ever get it off?

The point of Crests is to run ghetto tubeless, it’s what they are designed for, it’s what they do well.

You’re barking up the wrong tree. Change trees.

Done. Best wishes for your dissertation.

ok so this looks to be the 20mm conversion (nothing to it)

The adapters are easy to change there is a video on the hope web site.

Can’t find this vid, can anyone point me to it?

Thx

hugor in the time you’ve spent faffing trying to get your brakes bled, then add in the time to take it to the shop and pick it up and then take it back again because they likely won’t do it properly, you could easily have taught yourself and have done it.

next time you need it there is no learning curve and you’ll do it quicker, and when you went not a couple of weeks ahead

Rear wheel went very soft last night. I couldn’t find a hole, put some air in it and was on my way in a couple of minutes. Presumably a thorn flat that would have meant a new tube in the tubed world.

But good point about checking for embedded thorns before putting a tube in!

Derek if you have space and time, DIY. Get a workstand, the Park tool ‘3 allen keys in a starshape’ things and a copy of the Build Your Own Mountain Bike DVD. Watch it through, it shows you how most parts go on (and therefore off).

When both my LBSs failed to sort out an issue with my M4s dragging I got sick of taking it back, rolled up my sleeves and went from there.

If you get stuck or need help on tecnical stuff, put a properly worded query here. (There are no end of knobbers on STW but there are also plenty of decent people who will help out)

You won’t regret it and you’ll enjoy your biking more.

here please: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/forum/off-topic

Not necessarily. Well anything will ‘work’ but some will be hard or very hard to mount, some not.

What rims, what tyres?

I believe Crests btw are not designed for UST tyres, they’re designed for non-UST tyres running ghetto tubeless.

Search forum history there’s been lots on this.

for the record I rang TFTuned – when the right leg footnut is tightened it draws down a widget on an internal thread that creates the seal (if I understand correctly – it makes sense)

there may appear to be a small amount lf leakage – that’s just the oil that’s left in the bolt thread

maybe that’ll help someone 1 day!

Supplementary q: the manual says to put some oil in each leg once the lowers are back on. Since the rebound (right) side bolt that goes in to the base of the fork lower is hollow core, what stops the oil dropping out? (I don’t have the rebound adjuster twiddler-thing, but I don’t see that it has a seal on anyway).

Am I missing a bit?

Nice advert, great music but not exactly what’s in their stores is it.

That’s because everyone knows what’s in their stores, what they need is a reason to go and buy it.

And the reason, their ad says, is to get the kit so your kids can have a good time like you did when you grew up. Works for me.

The playing card and clothes peg was a stroke of genius. WANT!

alfa in your pic they look more red/bronze anyway

Hmm well we’re talking my bronze Blur Classic, it would probably be hideous. On the other hand I don’t ride it much, (I did put orange grips on it at the weekend)

Ooh like the look of those Havocs in orange for my FS ….

RaceFace SixC are 725mm, carbon. Light (expensive). I like mine, tho the decider was the orange highlights on them to match my orange Soul, when I saw them it felt like it was ‘meant to be’.

@lmttm Yes, they go hand in hand. As the bars come closer you can then go wider, it evens out.

This is on a Soul also (small).

If you can scrounge various bars/stems from your mates then try different set ups.

One thing that came out when I was discussing this with a ‘conservative’ hardtailer friend at the weekend, is to think of this as a handling issue first, with fit second. He was asking “why bother with a shorter stem, I could just move my seat back”, that is cart -> horse IMO.

There’s a vid on Youtube of Cy Turner talking at an engineer’s meeting where he discusses ‘trail’ which is the distance between where the wheel touches the ground (vertically beneath the axle), and the virtual point where the steering forces are applied. Worth a watch.

Also more comfy, and powerful, when putting on power out of the seat.

I went from 685mm on a 90mm stem to 725mm on a 70mm stem, it was like riding a new bike.

You know when you’re a kid and you run around pretending to be an aeroplane with your arms sticking out to the side? It feels like that, all swoopy and balancy and curvy. The narrower bars were like doing that with my arms and fists in front instead, more like moving the tiller on a boat.

Twisted analogy, hope it helps!

The ads great but the shops still the same as they’ve always been.

My Halfords (Dorking) had disc caliper shims in stock just when I needed them, has a decent selection of reflector bands and so on, and when I needed a not in-stock car battery they offered to get one in and drop it off at my door.

Not bad I’d say.

Hub is Pro2 Evo, so I’m good there.

nbt: ta for the explanation.

OK ta, I’ll go look at the bits again.

Is it a worthwhile upgrade for ‘technical XC” ?

I’m not joking, I’m trying to figure it out before I drop any cash.

So the difference between 9mm QR & 15mm Maxxle-light isn’t the diameter of the axle shaft, it’s just a different interface between the hub and the forks?

Make sure you pause it in the pub, that helps a lot.

I get 3hrs moving time on a 3 year old well used 3GS.

Bear in mind whatever you use needs to be loose enough that you can get it off, on the trail, and then on again with a tube in, in the event of a tyre tear or flat the goo won’t plug. I’ve had this happen.

Search forum history you’ll find masses on this, it’s been done several times.

Me, tubeless: Bontrager Mud X, Schwalbe Rocket Ron Evo, ’11 version I think.

Seek, you shall find.

stay high young man

Brechfa, nearly at the top of the big black climb IIRC. CC looks how I felt.

We were there yesterday.

Postcode we used was the pub http://www.blion.co.uk/ which is about 50 yards down the road from the red car park. Biker friendly, a decent pint and an idyllic beer garden by the river.

We did the black via the signed link from the red, you can probably do vice versa too. Some of this was also on the blue which was way fun as well.

Some of the black was reasonably steep but it’s steep and swoopy, I wouldn’t call it gnarly, no obilgatory jumps or big step-offs. It’s all rideable by a wheels-on-the-ground rider like me.

Both are well worth riding. There is _lots_ of climbing. Strava clocked our route at 23.3 miles 3,760 feet of climbing.