yep.  it was there. i think it still is, but can no longer be turned off.  I often see / hear it clunk in to keep the 12v topped up.

EDIT – thinking about this, it would have been a dealer firmware update that changed this. I had a number of these applied across 2022 when suffering 12v issues.

There was a software update for Ioniq a while ago that automatically tops up the 12v from the traction battery. You can see it happen automatically when it puts a single flashing light on the dash.  Suspect that Niro has similar.

Molgrips – is that the setting in the dashboard menu? That was greyed out when the update came – its always live now.

@retrorick the dipping wing mirrors can be turned on and off as needed. Press the mirror selector button to the centre to turn off or to either side for on.

I have an ioniq 38kwh. It’s a nice car. As you mention, it doesn’t meet the requirements you set out, but I do like it.
I discovered it is not rated or approved for a roof rack for some reason.  They are available for the hybrid version, and probably fit but legally it’s not approved.

12v issues – I had the car from nearly new, and had a period where the 12v battery would randomly go flat when the car was on charge. After a few months of back and forth to the dealers, with a replacement 12v battery, I eventually got to the bottom of it and has not happened in the last 40k plus miles.

the issue for me was related to the Bluelink app the car uses.  The charger I had (rolec- I don’t recommend) used its own app that connected to Bluelink via its API.  This app would continually access the cars state of charge to determine whether to charge, and did this via pinging the car which ‘woke’ it up and then drained the 12v system, bricking the car at the most critical moments.  Once I stopped using this, it’s been fine.

one thing to look for is that the car has had the coolant replacement recall / service carried out at 40k / 80k.  There was an issue on a number of Hyundai evs with the battery coolant, where the coolant would turn to jelly and not circulate correctly.  A special service was needed to force flush this out and replace with a different coolant.  I had some errors with this but the recall perfectly matched my service and again been fine since.  This improved the cars range and charging speed, likely due to being able to properly heat and cool the battery.

servicing costs are reasonable (around £100) even at main dealer although they seem to only look at it and wash it, and it’s every 10k miles.  But this keeps warranty and that has been very important as above. The 40k / 80k coolant replacement service though is quite expensive.

We got it October 2021 with 5k on and currently has 65k. Other than the above issues it’s been good.

It drives nicely, is much more efficient than all of them newer EVs my colleagues have but the range can be frustrating for long journeys and the charge rate is slow.  However we bought knowing that 95% of journeys are shorter trips in range and from home charging so accept those issues.

So the Hyundai satnav knows about loads of chargers, but the ‘filter’ page only allows you to filter on a small subset of those.  That makes no sense.  I can’t plan a route using only those networks supported by Electroverse

I think the issue there is that Electroverse isn’t a charger provider itself but a way of paying on the other networks.

There is a dedicated Electroverse app which works on carplay which may help?

😁 Shows how different environments can impact it.  My local roads are mostly coated with a layer of mud, and after a few warm summers are a touch glassy (other than potholes)

@molgrips  standard ioniq electric.  I think that’s part of the issue- nothing happens so wanting to hurry out of a junction I end up needing to stomp the pedal so end up pulling out just as slowly as the tyres spin 😆

on the muddy narrow ungritted roads around me in winter it can be a bit spinny on the front hence moving to all seasons.

Quote “I could get Michelin e.Primacy which have good RR and are quiet, but they are allegedly a bit less comfortable.”

When I replaced the original equipment Michelin energy tyres I looked at e.primacy for my ionic and they were eye wateringly expensive compared with primacy 4 which I went with. The e tyres have a shallow tread depth to reduce rolling resistance and from memory were only B rated for grip and wet weather.

the primacy 4 were a big improvement, but still lack grip pulling away from junctions in the wet and are a bit scary on slightly icy roads.

I replaced the rears with cross climate 2 and have noticed no reduction in range or increase in noise and (maybe not a real effect) better feel on the road. The fronts will be replaced with the same.

I don’t think it helps that the ionic has terrible / non existent traction control meaning the fronts spin at the slightest hurry out of a damp junction. That’s the only real downside from ev – zero feel for when this is happening

TBH i also put them on the back as car is an EV and much heavier wear on the fronts, so it means I will replace sooner than if i put the new ones on the front.

The previous car also ran for about 6 months with all season on front and rock hard eco tyres on the rear and was fine.

My first experience of crossclimates was my work lease company insisting on them as replacements. I was a bit miffed as had a hybrid and wanted eco tyres. They were fitted front only and turned out to be great, just the same economy but they actually gripped.

I replaced the worn primacy 4 on my current car recently with CC2.  Only 1 axle needed doing and wasnt prepared to throw away a lightly worn set of Primacy 4 so put them on the back and moved the rears to the front to wear out sooner.

Reading up, its advised to replace all of them, but if going to have more grip then better on the back to get understeer rather than the front grip and then have the rear overtake it!

Will replace the fronts with similar when worn, probably in Autumn.

For balance, our other car has the Conti All Season Contact 2 on the rear, and they also seem good.

A lot of Yeti love here, but they seem to command a very large price premium even for older models. Are they really that much better than Octavia estate etc?

I test drove a few a couple of years ago but couldnt bring myself to pay the Yeti tax at the time. We still look at them now but they dont seem to be good value.

If you want to go into Peterbrough*, take a landrover, if you want to come back take the train

The reason that’s true is because the LandRover will get nicked.

‘classic’ Ioniq coolant flush is also due at 40k! But… may have had this done already as part of the coolant recall that was out early last year. I was very pleased that the recall came at just before 40k miles completed.

The regular servicing is a bit of a joke though, but needed to maintain warranty.  The standard service seems to be an expensive wash and someone walks around the car and tells me my tyre tread depths.

The whole Red Bull F1 thing is really fascinating, not just because of the soap opera nature, but because the F1 Team is so out of alignment with everything else Red Bull is involved with.  Their sponsored athletes are (i believe) very carefully chosen and all seem to be role models and ‘nice’ regardless of how extreme and crazy their sports are.

The brand image is sacred and that extends to who they choose to represent them.

In F1, someone like Daniel Ricciardo also fits this mould, but Max and behaviours never really seemed to, and now all this stuff.

I previously had Horners outbursts etc down as being a pantomime villain for the entertainment, but am now not so sure.

I cant imagine that the parent Red Bull company are happy with any of this, and wonder if this is what all the drama is about.  They need it to get back to being ‘clean’ but are so reliant on Horner etc making everything work that they dont know what to do next.

Indeed i get the calculations on efficiency.

Are customers not demanding better efficiency? This has been one of the great selling points of ICE cars in the past, but seems to get hidden behind the more simple range numbers.

Initial vehicles were all about the aero due to battery limitations, but this is all forgotten as every car that comes out looks like it has been designed using Lego!

Hopefully efficiency will come back into the mix soon when people realise just how much it costs having to fill up at 79p/kwh on the motorways.

yes, makes sense with the big boxes, is more a philosophical question around the way manufacturers are going with the tech.  I would have expected to see gains in efficiency, but it seems that gains are more around charging speed and battery capacity.

Why are the newer tech EVs all such poor efficiencies.  I am horrified if my Ioniq goes less than 4 even on a cold day.  I appreciate many are now bigger but would have thought that improvements in technology cancel out some of the increased size?

Has the desire for efficiency now gone with faster charging available?

However (and I didn’t realise this before) the charging curve is terrible, with a 10-80% time of 54 minutes.

the charging speed of my Ioniq seemed to significantly improve after a software update.  Depending on mileage check that the ionic you look at has had the recall work done on the battery coolant system.  There was an issue with the coolant crystallising and blocking the pump and pipe work.  We managed to time the recall to the expensive coolant replacement service.  Having this done also improved charge times, I suspect because the car could heat / cool the battery better.

[brownperson]

brownperson

Free Member

Yes, but you have to give permission.

Really? I was contacted by a private clinic for a scan, as this was a service used by my NHS trust. I gave no such permission. In fact I was annoyed, as such a scan wasn’t necessary (I’d already had one), and I hadn’t been informed my supposedly confidential details had been given to a private company without my express consent

This isnt the same as ‘going private’ ,   Its NHS using a contractor to carry out their work. This would be no different to being contacted by the local hospital imaging department – they are effectively the NHS so would be working with access to all the necessary data and under the same regulations as NHS

EDIT – apologies – just re read your post and i had mis-interpreted it. You meant that they were marketing to you after you had the original scan?

Yes, but you have to give permission.

Really? I was contacted by a private clinic for a scan, as this was a service used by my NHS trust. I gave no such permission. In fact I was annoyed, as such a scan wasn’t necessary (I’d already had one), and I hadn’t been informed my supposedly confidential details had been given to a private company without my express consent

Yes, but you have to give permission.  I am also going through work insurance and was asked to authorise access to my records / GP.  It may be that this is tucked away on a form or email somewhere, but makes complete sense to me so they know what has been going on.  They are much more efficient than the other way round, where it has taken over a month for the consultants findings to be added to my GP records (and only after me chasing for this to be done). 

Not shocked at withdrawing API for car apps when a 3rd party can effectively brick your car.

It took me months to work out why my battery kept going flat – including multiple painful visits to dealers. In the end it was because my home charger app would continually ping the car to find the state of charge to determine if it needed more charging.  It would effectively keep the car ‘awake’ too long and then it wouldn’t function in the morning.

I cannot recommend Rolec home chargers – between that app and the fact that the unit failed multiple times and was replaced with a Zappi by my installer

My car is not compatible so the device registered and controlled is the charger only. I guess if you did IO through the charger and removed the link to the car it wouldn’t know what car was connected?

I had issues with my previous charger calling on the car API and then causing the 12v battery to go flat at night, so am hoping that by controlling the charger this wont be an issue.

EDIT – thinking about this, i had to register the car so that IO knows the battery capacity, but it should still work

Zappi chargers are now compatible with Octopus Intelligent Go.

Had notification on Monday and I switched tariff this morning in about 5 mins. 

Been on ‘normal’ Go for a couple of years but this will give us longer off peak prices, and a reduction from 9p off peak to 7.5p 

Snowy weather has revealed an EV thing – no hot engine to melt snow on the bonnet, so it slides off in a mass when you start to drive 🙂

Same happens with LED headlights.  And screenwash pipes.

My top tip for winter EV driving is the -20 screenwash

probably not much difference.  the primacy tyres i have are supposedly better in wet braking than a cross climate (according to labels) but reading up that is in the summer. living in a rural area with narrow roads, i will often have to dip the wheels onto the verge – with the current soft ground and the fact that regen means the car brakes as soon as i lift off this has led to a few no grip moments and i think that in future i would rather have the extra mud traction than save a few miles range! 

re tyres i got michelin primacy 4 for my ioniq last time – big improvement on the OEM michelins previously fitted. I was wavering about getting cross climates as had them on my previous corolla hybrid and they were excellent with no impact on efficiency, but i was swayed by A rating tyre efficiency and keeping range.  I think that when i next replace the tyres i will go with cross climates as have had a few moments recently to make me want the better mechanical grip year round over a few miles extra range (and there are more quick chargers on the few regular long journeys i do).

Re: blended braking – my corolla hybrid had this and it worked really well – initially was regen then on harder braking the ‘normal’ brakes would come in.  My ioniq does the same thing – as mentioned above can hear sometimes when the discs bite and scrape off the overnight rust – often not for quite a while into a journey if been braking gently.

I recently glued up a hole in Barbour wellies with black witch wetsuit glue. Only used this as it’s what I already had at home. Seems to be working ok but I don’t use them much.

Seems there’s been a bit of research showing on average around 20% extra weight in small, medium and large categories so accepting that on face value I wonder if there’s other factors to consider?

We have a 2013 renault megane and a hyundai ionic EV. Similar size vehicles but the renault actually has a (only slightly) higher dry kerb weight than the EV which surprised me.  Imagine its due to fluids and manual gearbox in the renault, and a bit of nearly 10years of tech advances in the hyundai.

@stingmered – looking at your screenshot it’s not updated the status on the app. You may need to refresh it – the app shows updated 0607 and the screenshot was from 0947.  I find the Bluelink app doesn’t always want to update or connect.  Every so often it needs a press of the reset button in the car to get it to connect to a mobile signal and update.

Don’t most modern cars have some sort of GPS mapping device that tells them where lots of things are? Things like stores, filling stations, charging stations etc?

They do, but the problem is areas of charger ‘desert’. Went to Filey recently and in the wider area the only fast charger seemed to be at McDonalds in Scarborough.

“I could see why if there were fast groups forming on road sections.”

The start is (was) particularly mental.  Assuming its still the same, its closed roads with a police escort and 100s riders all close together in a bunch on tiny roads.  Makes sense to keep flared drops out of that.  I never experienced a bunch after my race as was simply battling to finish.

Best race ever.

Hardest ride I ever did.

Would love to do it again one day.

Good.  Although cyclo-cross races allow bike and equipment changes, so this is an extension of that spirit?

Interesting that flat handlebars are not allowed.  I’m sure that they  used to be allowed as long as they were below a (very narrow) maximum width?

 

 

Wow. Like Molgrips I have an Ioniq EV.  The autotrader values have plummeted just in the last couple of months.  Had to buy at the peak of the market in summer 2021 due to job changes but was holding steady and suddenly dropped off.  Some good deals out there on low mileage EVs – wish they were at those prices when we were looking!

In contrast, the Corolla Touring Hybrids that i also looked at (for about 4K less than the ionic in 2021) have held or look to have actually increased in price (even taking into account 2+yrs of mileage).

Will be a difficult dilemma when we get to the final payment, as at the current rate the car could be worth less than the final value.  (not helped by our mileage)

TBF, the real steel feel of crosscheck is nice but also really bloody heavy! Singlecross is a bike I wish was still available :)

Crosscheck is 132.5 mm spacing (Gnot Right tm) if I remember right.

I’ve got both 130 and 135mm hubs that work fine in mine but a 110 would be a bit of a squish.

As a parent with 8 and 13 yr old daughters, YHAs have been great for us as a family. Areas such as the lakes really lack reasonably priced family accommodation – it’s all b&bs which are expensive and awkward or holiday cottages which are overkill.  YHA (pre Covid) offered them the freedom to make friends and develop independence.

They are blooming expensive now though I agree.  I think that’s the reason the carparks are full of Audis – where else do you stay for an active family break?

We wanted to stay at Robin Hoods Bay recently and couldn’t get in at all, so ended up in a Haven Caravan which was substantially cheaper!

I try to remember to double wave at people when they stop for me at zebra crossings

My local shop has one of the Raleigh TI team bikes for sale – fully restored.

https://www.justonemorebike.co.uk/bike-shop

Yes v2. It’s more noticeable with transparency and is low level on anc but drives me crazy – certainly couldn’t sleep with it.

As suggested above I could return them again but I have to mail in as no Apple Store nearby, and having done it once have limited faith in another set being better and then start to run out of time to return them.

Polar verity sense is great. I had OH1 but it failed and replaced with verity sense.

The battery life is much better and it can connect with 2 Bluetooth devices at the same time, as well as ant+ for Garmin.

The polar flow app that goes with it works well. I tend to use the hrm ‘offline’ for swimming which is much better than using a watch as it’s out of the way on my goggles.

It also works in ‘odd’ ways – have used it before held on with physio tape so it wouldn’t pull off in a swim run race.

If I lost it I would buy another straight away.