Not sure why you need two droppers…I use one between two bikes and takes minutes to set up.

Used a static post last weekend and it felt truly awful.

I have the same bars and are ideal for infrequent journeys (i.e. take them off when you get home).

Gone up in price since I bought them…we’re £50 from the same place. Takes 5 min to fit too.

Squirt rain or shine

Nice one…will hit the button later tonight.

Can anyone recommend an accurate but not too expensive torque wrench to set it up?

Cheers

25 front Hans Dampf 28 Purgatory rear…relatively light at 12.5st on a Soul

Thanks folks…Think I’ll take a trip back to the doc.

maxray – I have a 5 month old who’s teething so I’m up most of the night and early morning…how I envy even the thought of a lie in!

Will now not be taking my LEV…bloody cable end has just unthreaded…knew I should have soldered the end (and I’ve just got it back from Superstar too)! :cry:

Me…but I’ll be up at 5.30 and Cannock for 7.15!.

That Kona looks like its made of Meccano :D

Stevede – so the ti slackline finally arrived…looks good.

Cheers Rocketdog

Only have online access to the mag so can only see the contents at the moment?

Often walked the dog up there but never ridden…even though I know many people do.

Does the article have a route or anything?

No need for a new hub unless the stock wheels that come with it don’t accept adapters…the 2012 wheels did so assume yours will too.

To be honest I haven’t felt I REALLY need the thru axle…just always wanted it as a nicety.

I put on 8lb in one week eating junk food whilst the wife was away and the following Sunday ride was noticeably more difficult. My balance was nowhere near the same and climbing was a little harder too.

Biscuit tin is now padlocked by the other half.

Not sure about the 2013, but my 2012 is rear thru axle compatible if you buy the converter kit (£27), thru axle and hub adapters…my next upgrade.

The 2012 is 9QR…but really long QR for the ABP and require a specific bonty one if you lose it.

Great bike, upgraded mine with AM classic wheels,dropper and 140 talas forks and reckon it is now pretty much my do it all bike.

With 130 front and rear on 2013 would imagine it’s just as good and you can upgrade if needed over time.

Funk – I hope you use somekind of sterilising agent in your water otherwise you’re very likely carrying worms! 8O

Done…truly terrible thing to have happened.

If its weight you want to save then I’d save up for a lighter set of wheels 2nd hand from here or Pinkbike, eBay etc, then change the forks (or opposite way around if the forks are particularly bad).

IMO I’d only buy new bars if they aren’t wide enough or wrong rise as not much weight really lost compared to wheels or forks.

I got a set of 1750g DT Swiss wheels in good condition from here for £100 and although not bombproof, more than adequate for my light weight and riding.

Running m780 XT and new m670 SLX. Black XT looks good in a cosmetic way…until it scuffs up unlike the new SLX.

Bought my SLX 2×10 groupset including brakes from bike discount de last year for just under £250…think the exchange rate was really good at the time.

KS LEV or Reverb. LEV requires no bleed and real easy to set up…but no UK distributer if things go wrong.

Reverb equally good but bleeding can be a pain in the arse.

Having had both, I prefer the KS for lack of faff.

lunar solo on ebay for £22 at the mo…type in ‘tent one man’

Been using squirt for the last two years rain or shine and clean and reapply after two rides. When it works…why change? Will never use any other line due to the amount of crap they all accumulate.

Ran these front and rear but ditched the rear pacestar as it was a bit too draggy. Still running them as a front on both bikes as the grip is phenomenal (just not in the thickest mud). Need to wear the tread a bit too before they tackle wet roots IMO.

No idea about leg widths but I’m wearing troy lee kg5450 (which have semi shin protection) in xs and I have fairly muscular rugby playing legs. The xl must be mahoosive. There size guide is fairly spot on too.

They don’t have any strapping but they don’t chaff or slip on me and are totally fit and forget. Protection isn’t necessarily the heaviest duty but I’m not exactly Gee Atherton either.

Best advise…go and try before you buy.

Went to centre parc a few weeks ago and wasn’t overly impressed with the red route. I guess if you’re local for hidden gems then it might be better…but still no real elevation as such.

My understanding is they are reusable (although I grabbed a bargain and I picked a pack of 10 from Amazon for £12 to last me for the rest of my days).

I have a Joe Blow Sport 2 which according to my digital gauge is near spot on. Only £25 too!

Sure the gauge would be better situated higher up or a bigger dial instead…but for £25 I’m not complaining.

Sent mine back for a warranty issue and missed it like hell for the past 3 weeks.

This may sound daft…but when I first got mine I started riding my bike like I did my old bmx when I was 8 thinking I was in bmx bandits with a crush for Nicole Kidman and with with complete reckless abandonment.

Best upgrade I’ve ever purchased!

I got a m771 XT from the woolyhatshop through amazon for £45…best I could find including postage.

Personally I prefer the rose-bike due to the Reba fork and good mix of components.

Bear in mind the decathalon uses a press fit bottom bracket bracket too, which IMO aren’t brilliant.

The cube has really good components but not sure about that manitou fork.

Try a 29er which should roll well…but will be heavier.

25.77 with static post, 26.34 with LEV

Medium frame
Fox 32 FIT RLC 120mm
Full SLX 2×10 and brakes (ice tech rotors)
Truvativ stem
Spank evo 747 bars
DT Swiss X1700 wheelset
Hans Dampf/spesh purgatory

Loving this bike…has made me completely change my riding style. Getting bigger air, hovering over my seat more, picking better lines…all things I became lazy doing on my fs.

[/url]
SAM_0742[/url] by matther01[/url]]null[/url]

Prefer mine at 120mm and have yet to try them with my 110/140 talas. Both are RLC FIT.

Don’t see a physio until you have a proper diagnosis from GP/consultant.

FWIW NHS had me seen and scanned for an ACL tear in 4 weeks.

I have a Charge LR and Mule NV.

Charge is great with stability around the hips like the Volt will be…but the Mule holds kit in a better way (having slightly bigger dimensions).

If you don’t carry loads of kit and like a pack which you forget you’re carrying then the Volt gets my vote.

Running a 110/140 Talas on mine with no issues…but think 150mm maybe a step too far.

My brother in law has the Giant Trance X4 and he has had nothing but problems, two broken seatposts (both fixed under warranty), the Tora’s are terrible and the drivetrain needs constant adjusting.

I on the otherhand have a 2012 Ex8 and its excellent and can’t recommend it enough.

I’ve adjusted quite alot on it…but the original spec was still really good. Flys up and down hills with ease. Just make sure if you get a 2012 model to buy the tubeless kit (costs about £20).

IMO Racing Ralphs don’t have the best grip in the world anyway. I ran a Hans Dampf front 25psi and Spesh Purgatory 2.2 28psi rear and the grip was incredible from the very first ride.

Tried a Crossmark 2.1 rear at Sherwood Pines last week and it was a little hairy in places and nowhere near as comfy…gone back to the purgatory.

I’d take confidence in cornering with grippier tyres than flat out speed all day long…but I tend to break bones quite easily!

Fudge – swapping components over mostly xt and slx shifters, talas forks…heard the frame is 7lbs and can’t afford uber light and expensive extras. Would be looking to run my LEV too.

Really like the stealth and lemon colours.

What’s your build spec?

Bought my Soul with the same thought and swapping everything from one bike to the other…eventually have ended up with two full bikes.