sorry, i only mentioned it as i have a pre-occupation with disc brakes for my next winter build!

My ideal winter bike should take 28c tyres, full length guards, a rear rack, disc brakes (new idea to the table), a king headset and threaded bb and have a replaceable hanger.

The vaya was seemingly the only frame that ticked those boxes.

will follow with a report/pictures.

salsa vaya.

Looking to build one right now

is it alloy?

no to thread-jack but i’d also be interested.

i like the highly opinionated comments by some on here!

If it were me, i’d reccommend the storck scenero g2 for being a great all rounder if not a little racy in terms of geometry.

would i rate it as the best frame out there? course not! Lots of high end frames will ride great, be light and give you what you want.

The scenero rides better than many i’ve ridden but then i’ve not ridden all high end products out there.

that thetford Rob P ??

you’ll make more on a more expensive helmet but the percentage margin will stay the same.

generally helmets spend longer ‘baking’ and will have more inmold features, better materials going on.

It amuses me when consumers make wild speculations about margins/costs on items.

Helmet margins are better on cheap branded stuff like raleigh helmets or the stuff out of Aldi.

High end brands from entry level cost to top level cost make the same margin.

Our of intrest, has anyone read why more expensive helmets cost more to make? I’m not saying people will get more out of them but at least be open to reading up on a manufacturer as to why they are what the are.

good choice! :D

why don’t you just run a Gore sealed low friction cable and keep the frame as it is?

the sram pressfit30 to bsa threaded adapters will work best for him then.

its already being done for certain things in bikes. dying the carbon is a massive pain apparently!

not where i’m from!
i hammered mine to 1st last night up some nasty little roads

i second the praxis works but as mentioned above, if he’s running an fsa chainset he won’t be running a gxp bb. fsa have a million and one bb’s to suit their chainsets

go for bor’s

nope, they’re easy to install and do not affect anything other than stepping down the i.d of the l/h cup.

it doesn’t matter if you run a split race or normal as you aren’t drifting it directly onto carbon, generally there will be an alloy element bonded in.

i do.
storck carbon fork with acros headset

yes

Well said Frank! here here!

if your carbon frame takes a threaded bottom brakcet that does not exclude it from being faced.

do you reckon the old honda jazz would enjoy a lap or two round there one day?

I could remove the rear seats to improve my 0-62 acceleration, fit a racing gear knob to get a more racey look and ductape all the seams on the bonnet/doors for better top speed aerodynamics.

Any further mods welcomed.

that would be because the weld metal is in an annealed(soft)state,but you could weld it up and get the hub re-heat treated?

he had re-treated it but to no avail

my god did i read the price corretly!!??

the cranks drive the hub unlike a bicycle front hub.

but should you still wish to, any pedal washer available from the likes of fsa will do.

that hub is borked!

I rebuilt a wheel for a guy who had done the same thing, he’d then welded the piece back on with extra weld around the affected area and as soon as i put any tension into the spoke it simply snapped off again.

white is only unsuitable for the uk if you don’t clean it!

The black looks horrid to me!

without the head of the eyelet and supposing the building loctited them, you may have to resort to very carefully sawing it out.

normally a specific body although they do sometimes build in crossover compabability.

best to search out the correct one

carbon paste would be recommended anyway if its an alloy/carbon interface.

This would also help with clamping forces by increasing the friction between the two.

Leave it leant against a radiator for a while

which will do the grand sum of naff all!

you’ll have a warm, hard to get off tyre!

i NEVER understand why groms run without brakes. at least not a rear anyway.

i’m sure brake pads are cheaper than etnies too!

fat spanner tools are great

there are definitely good batches and bad batches but if you have a goodun that was well assembled at the factory, they’ll last years!

oh i see! some tapes can be a bit like that eh?

The silver looks great.

in that the wraps aren’t particularly close together!

that taping looks a bit sparse!!

This was mine until a car pulled out…..

[/url]
enigma[/url] by botsholt[/url], on Flickr

we have facing tools for most headset, bottom bracket and disc standards which frequently get used (especially threaded bb’s)

why wouldn’t you want to use them on a new frame (or old for that matter) if you were building it up?

Its a fairly common misconception that the headtube/bb alignment of frames are acceptable out of the factory, we see some real shockers!

The taper on headset bearings isn’t there to take up headtube discrepancies, merely to centre the bearing and allow the user to remove play.