Had a cracking day out in the Peak today.

Hope, Aston, Blackley, Lockerbrook, Fairholmes, Hagg, Wooler Knoll etc.

Nice snow, and it was the grippy stuff.

Got a bit cold in places, so wrap up well.

Was thawing a fair bit, so Sunday might be a bit icy early on.

Thought this was going to be a thread about hash :?

Not sure if I’m looking forward to tomorrow or not!

Deffo gettin’ old!

Can’t take a civilised night out these days. Let alone a raucous one.

End it all now.

Is your bike an XL?

Plenty of Evans and Cycle Surgery branches down there. I regularly walk through Holborn when I’m in town and pop in for a browse. They seem to have reasonable stock.

I work at home……err……any good excuses I can use?

“bit slippery on the landing this morning!”

Just put me christmas lights up :-)

Planet X Model B.

The only thing I’ve done any different is swim.

I lost weight and got a nicer body tone……must just check myself out in the full length mirror one more time……..mmmmmm……niiiiice!

As in cold so burning more fuel to keep warm? Sounds reasonable.

Although my local pool probably sweats the weight off me some days!

MrSmith – Member
what if you can’t swim?

Get some lessons. I’ve really enjoyed the learning a new skill experience, even at my advanced age.

If you want to lose weight, start swimming 3 times a week
Is that the only thing that people can do to lose weight, or is it just what you did?

It’s what happened when I started swimming. Didn’t intend to lose weight. It just happened. Cycling didn’t cause me to lose any weight. Swimming did, without really changing diet or anything. Although after starting triathlon I do watch my diet a bit more, but not obsessively. Still drink beer and eat cakes, but just a bit less.

iDave – would be interested in what training plans you can help me develop for next year…oooh….starting to sound serious!

If you want to lose weight, start swimming 3 times a week. Proper front crawl type swimming.

Earlier this year I couldn’t do front crawl, and weighed 14 and a half stone. Took weeks to be able to do 6 lengths.

Now I weigh 13 and half stone, can swim 80 lengths comfortably (slow but comfy …..should be my motto), and haven’t stopped eating chocolate :-). Got a nicer “shape” to my upper body now too.

Started doing triathlons in July, and the combination of different activities and a bit of friendly competition means my overall fitness and endurance has massively improved.

I’m late 40’s nearly fifties. Well 47, keeping with the age theme!

Troutie, please stop.

Loving my new Darkness Dominator.

My Joystick is fine. At least thought it was!

Mines maybe 3 years old, pre smart port I think.

Watching with interest and wallet in a safe place.

I checked mine, it’s rated down to -15! So it stays un-modified in the garage.

That’ll be a Ti Summer Season then!

Edit: To my mind, you need to match the geo when the forks are at full compression. That would give you a comparable angle, and that’s when you need your geo to be “right”.

I just use a net book (£150) bought purely for playing i-tunes through my hifi, controlled using “remote” on a free ipod touch.

Although I have now done away with the hifi and use a wifi (not bluetooth) Bose Soundlink, which means I can move the music around the house wirelessly, as it is re-chargeable. I’ve shared itunes with other computers in the household so have access to tons of noise (thanks 22yr old metal loving son!), all still controlled remotely via ipod.

The advantage is that wifey now uses the netbook for her emails etc, so it has more than one use.

All backed up as itunes is copied to each ‘pooter, plus a Buffalo HDD.

Will run off and check my garage fridge freezer.

Can’t have warm beer and defrosted chicken kievs! And what about all my Iceland party bites!

This might tempt me on to a 29er!

Dropper post cable guides please. Put them side by side on the left underside for dropper and rear brake. If no dropper required just use the outer guide for rear brake, hiding the inner guide :-)

I’d probably run a 1×10, and as I have less knowledge than you re chain guides, I’ll defer the requirement to others.

epicyclo – I am capable of making rational decisions ;-) Big respect to those that do the ‘puffer. I follow the online results and I’m knackered!

billyboy – ‘er indoors gets a bit narky if I just go off for a long ride and leave her at home. But if I get an event on the cards she gives me lots of support and understands the need for lots of “training rides” in the build up. Plus she gets to come along to the event and join in the atmosphere stuff.

anus – will check out that BC link, cheers.

Deg at ‘Degla is looking good. Perfect timing as tri goes quiet in August.

Diolch Huw!

Gotta fit it in with 5 triathlons, 2 half maras, a number of 10ks, and likely an open water swim event or two.

As this will take a bit of time from a recovery point of view, I need to get my timing of other events right.

Will look up the “10”. Cheers.

I did derby to London every day for 3 years. That was 30 mins drive to the station, 1:40 – 2:00 hrs on train depending on which one I got, then 30 mins to the office via tube, or a 50 minute walk.

I hated staying in hotels, still do, and had a young family then, so travel worked for me, but it was knackering.

Now we have lots of technology that means I hardly ever travel to London. If I do it twice a month these days it’s too much!

I used to quite enjoy it. After a while you get the same faces sitting nearby, and you start to build up a few friendships.

And after a year, the then Midland Mainline staff got to recognise me and I got he odd perk i.e. free cakes, coffee, biscuits, newspapers etc.

7 weeks will be a doddle.

Kona Jake, full guards, panniers with clothes, laptop, paperwork, food etc. So plenty of extra weight.

18 miles each way, 50/50 on/off road, some good hills. Normally 1 – 2 times per week.

Good job I did a search before I posted this same question. My Lumi HID has started to flicker when it gets bumpy, so reckon it’s on its way out.

Vortex, I’ll pm you my email, can you send an instruction to me too please.

And can someone tell me exactly what I need to buy from Cutter please. I think I need a driver B2flex? Triple LED mounted on a board? should I get a quad? Switch from Maplins? I’ve got cable. Some of that heatsink paste stuff from Maplins? Get a heatsink turned up? What about “optics”? Is that the lens, and if so, which one do I need? I’ve got the 5.5 hour HID battery so it should last a while with the LEDs :D

I’m pretty handy so should be able to knock this together, but I’m a bit dense when when I read the techy terminology.

I’ve been tubeless for over 3 years and wouldn’t go back. Used standard tyres (mostly maxxis and spesh), tubeless ready, and LUST, on ghetto with 20″ tubes, ghetto with just leccy tape, and with tubeless rims.

I’ve used art latex, and also JRA Wheelmilk. Always worked a treat. So you’ll be after some non-latex gloves then.

Your maxxis tyres will be fine ghetto with latex sealant. I would remove the Bonty juice first tho. Don’t know if it will mix or not, but not worth the bother of having to do it twice more.

And when you’ve put the latex in and pumped ’em up, give a good tilt and slosh around to coat all over the inside of the tyre.

JoyRiders.

Just emailed you a Tracklog. Hope that helps.

Wow. It took that long to get to Ewan McGregor. More wood than Ron Jeremy!

Can’t think of any other big names that bad.

Mat – think about how air will float to the top of fluid, you are trying to push it down an inch or so at a time. So a bit will keep trying to get back up to the reservoir.

You need to find a way of clamping the caliper above, or at least level to, the reservoir, so that the air floats up to the bleed nipple.

It’s not that critical to get the caliper higher, level or almost is fine. Just try to be fairly swift with the pump/bleed/pump/bleed/top up/repeat and it should be fine.

If you aren’t far off now i.e. if you get enough pressure to make the brake work, just tie the lever back overnight, with the reservoir above the caliper so that the air floats up to the reservoir.

Keep the bleed nipple closed. Pump the lever a few times to build up pressure and keep it squeezed when the pressure is up. Open the bleed nipple and keep squeezing the lever until it touches the bars. Hold the lever to the bar, do not release it. Close the bleed nipple. Release the lever. Repeat a few times keeping the reservoir topped up. This stops air being drawn back into the nipple when you release the lever with the nipple open.

Other things to try are tilting the bike so that the brake caliper is higher than the reservoir (keeping the reservoir level of course) and bleed as above – this can help the air flow up to the bleed nipple and not back up to the reservoir. I have done this with the brake off the bike and the caliper positioned above the reservoir clamped to a shelf. You shouldn’t need to go to that extent though.

Once you are done, or as good as you can get it, pump the lever up to pressure and tie it up so that the brake is pressured and leave overnight. This pressurises the fluid and makes any tiny air bubbles float to the reservoir more quickly where it pops up to the diaphragm.

You need a bigger chimenea!

I did a really detailed reply and then it all crashed!

So either CX for a commute with road and tracks, Giant Defy 3.5 if you want drops for fast road work, Boardman flat bar if you want flat bars and discs.

Shop around and you should get any of them new for £500 or less.

Car accessory shops. Chemists – especially those that do homebrew. Err….homebrew shops…..some Branches of Wilkinsons do it too.

Have you met my wife?

MTFU :-)

So far….7 cans of Fosters, 1 glass of Shiraz, 2 damson brandies, 2 Amarettos, some homebrew rose. Sitting around a fire with a bunch of mates talking shite and having the craic.

Just tidied up from all the pizza and Doritos and dips.

Now a nice milky Horlicks.

Nite Nite :-)

I used to be into full length outers (FS & HT), but lately I’ve begun to appreciate the open cable type, as it allows easy lubing.

Simply pop the outer out of the stop, slide the end cap down the cable, rub a bit of oil on the inner, and slide the outer up and down the inner a few times. Then pop it all back together.

Takes 30 seconds, and you will always have smooth well lubed rust free cables.

It’s lack of lubing/maintenance that causes problems and this makes it easy to keep on top.

Saves the weight of that section of cable too ;-) ahem

Let’s see….my son is 21 so that’ll be…….:-(

If you iron them with lots of steam and stretch them while ironing, they normally get back into shape. You have to give it loads of steam and loads of stretch.

This worked with my Icebreaker that went in a 60 degree by accident. Didn’t work for my bargain CragHoppers one that wouldn’t have fit a 5 year old but said XL on the label!