So so jealous. Say something nice to the poor lad! If you had done this, you`d be shouting about it!

I had a laugh once when i heard that someone from Shimano queried the shimano chain and cassettes on some pro`s bikes at a big race when they should have been running spam.. only to be either blanked or ushered away with no reply. Cant remember which.

ahwiles – Member
so can you explain why Cervelo went from being paid to use SRAM components to paying to use Shimano? Seems to me that pro road teams are willing to choose performance over money.

no idea, here’s a guess though:

they wanted to?

here’s another:

they were paid to?

Yes,they wanted to. You nailed that one on the head.

Shimano sp40 end caps are now 99p each. You got off lightly!

Yeah,the Kirk revo spar under the top tube reminds me of it but i wouldnt say no to an Ibis!

The rear reminds me a bit of the Scott endorphin.

Aye. I think it was 499 with 15quid off. I was told i would get £50 of vouchers as well but i shouldnt have got the £15 off for ordering it over the phone in the first place. So i was happy with £35 of vouchers to balance it out. So £449? :O)

Will any be suited to long travel 29ers,ton?

I could see it humouring out with a happy medium of 130 up front and 100 at the back as the nations fav.

Yeah my cannondale in 1990 had a chrome plated shimano rubber coated q/r and it did the job perfectly. We shouldnt be going backwards… but we do!

Actually.. if i had one of those 20 year old shimano seat skewers, i wouldnt bother with a dropper post because they are so easy to open/close compared to everything else out there at the moment!

I look forward to a flux with a tapered headtube..

Anyway, hope you get a cheap deal/right bike!

My first bike. A Raleigh Boxer. Its wrecked. but its still my first ever bike so its staying.

Or wait another year to get a better deal. I picked up a 2009 flux for £485 (+£30 of vouchers)

Riding it brings a grin to yer face as it is.. but when you look down at it and think “four eight five?!” it feels even better!

I think the 2009 20mm version cannot be changed to 15mm. Double check on this if its 2009 that you have.

I have owned (with bombers too lol) a 5 spot ict/horst for a few years.
Built a tnt version up for a few rides with all the same kit off my own bike.
Ridden an ict/horst flux for a week.
Had a short spin on a tnt flux.
Now own a dw flux.

The 5 spot is a stiffer bike than the flux in ict/horst build. When you get on the flux you can feel (and see) the stays moving ever so slightly under load. It feels livelier than the 5 spot for typical xc/old school trail riding.The 5 spot shines on the descents.. especially when those moments crop up where you want to ride as close to your threshold as you dare.Once you get on a fast swoopy trail it will leave you muttering to yourself how good it really is.. something that you might never know until you take it up there. If its used for xc use then the hidden secret it holds might never be found.

Unfortunately for me, i dont ride full on much and like to cruise along on xc routes more than hitting the likes of laggan black and the likes.. so i find the flux,with similar confidence inspiring handling,a better bike to own. I have searched around for an old horst flux for a while but recently ended up buying a cheap dw 2009 flux.
From what i remember from the week with the horst flux, the dw seems as stiff at the rear as the old 2005 version. I may be wrong. The dw as you probably know,is a different suspension design. I wont go into what i like and dislike about the two designs but if i had a choice,i reckon it would have to be the DW. cable routing is a bit more of a faff on dw than their old versions but with how well dw works.. you dont really care about which way a cable is routed! I have a pike on mine wound down to 115. This seems a nice happy medium.

Its really what you plan on using it for.A Flux is something you can live with as your only bike if its mainly xc riding but like mentioned above,dont think this wont descend trails in the likes of Torridon.It will.. possibly better than a lot of 5-6 inch travel bikes with less sorted geometry! Its a tough frame that will give you bags of confidence. If you dont mind having a slightly heavier bike thats not quite as agile feeling on the xc routes.. but you want something that will shine when you take it up a mountain with a build you can be more confident in.. the go for the 5 spot.

The guy is having a laugh.

If you carry a spacer around the same depth as the stem and slide it over the steerer after slipping the stem off,you can nip the top cap onto the spacer and not have to worry about the fangled stem getting damaged if it happens to burst through the box.

Another thing running through my head is the amount of time and money spent coming up with everything else on a bike,well no.. a frame. Each year theres usually a few changes to angles,colours,graphics,gussets amongst other things.. how about buying half a dozen quality seat clamps,test them out through all seasons and decide which one works best? If they can choose a clamp that has a well placed cam pivot point and agree on which one out of their favourites lasted the longest/stayed as new throughout a winter,then this would hopefully put an end to seat clamps that fail. Theres manufacturers still speccing seat clamps on bikes with nylon cups that deform and become useless after a week.

They seem more interested in talking the talk,getting new colours and graphics, new anodized caps or stem face plates in a range of matching colours before sorting out how to hold a seat post up on a £3000 bike.

and even with the quality stuff slightly pinching,maybe they need to start making them slighty more beefier in the first place,james. If its going to affect the function then its either tougher material or leaving more on there in the first place.

Its a shame. These things arent cheap.

We have pretty much got through the past (at least) 15 years of mountain bikes with seatposts and seat tubes causing no problems at all, its a sad day when we have to start pointing the finger at a seat tube and seat clamp design when we know that the problem stems from the wall thickness of some new fangled seatpost that hasnt yet been perfected.

and by that i mean the internals made small enough to enable a wall thickness that can do the job like all the stuff we have got on with fine over the years…and thats even before they get the reliability sorted on these things. Start from the outside in!! We have used the likes of PUSH posts retailing around £20 and even at that price,they do not fail because of a wall thickness thats too thin.

The only problems that we have (and its not even a freekin mtb) is on mountain bike style bikes such as real poor quality stuff like Universals,Emmelles etc. Those chrome plated steel posts that get pinch marks before the seatpost is securely fixed. This is mainly on mtb style bikes costing around £70-£130. Lets not go there.

Its about paying £150-£300 for a seatpost that now has possible problems with its wall thickness,not to mention the internal reliability.

If this is the case,any brands that cant make them strong enough,stick with 31.6 and forget 30.9 until you nail it on the head with decent testing.. instead of blurting these things out for £270 a pop,using the public as guinea pigs..

yet again ;O)

The seatclamp affects the function? Ok,that enough for me to put the wallet away and wait another year until someone gets these things sorted. Hopefully giant have got their contact switch sorted. Fingers crossed.

In the meantime,the maverick will do!

I have had a few that have supposed to be good over the years (currently have a gobi xm on the main bike) but nothing is as easy to get back onto as the sdg formula fx ibeam.It flexes so well,doesnt look well padded but has a nice narrow width through its overall length and it just feels so comfy.

Dont think by what you have tried in the past (if yer weighty) that you definately need a more heavily padded saddle. I am 13 odd stone.These will change your thoughts on padding for ever.

I have a set of forks that were stripped and sent back by a customer that need to be sorted. A fresh bolt can be wound in and pulled out by hand if i try hard enough. Not good.
Local engineering place reckons around 20 quid to sort it.He seems happy enough with the amount of material around the hole to carry out the job. (its a skimpy round post mount,unlike a more beefier square shaped manitou)

Do as TJ says and get a helicoil or something similar.

Glue or threadlock is not an option!

A greasy pyramid.

*with some tartan sauce confidently squirted around it.

Dont badger them.

Yeah i remember now,got ya. I would have to put the old inserts back in there to wind the top nut down after compressing the springs. I have taken them out about 4 years ago but cant picture the job in my head. I might refit the old inserts and springs.. and say goodbye to the driveshafts as the labour in getting a garage to strip it, is going to cost what those parts are worth.

I still have abs sensors and drop links that cost me around 300 quid to remove so that should take an hour or so.Theres springs,inserts and heaps of other bits that are still in fine condition. Just seems mad binning it all when i plan on getting another in the future.

cheers for the help!

I read Gabes Nigguh with attitude interview in the latest issue of the Albion and expected it to fade into bike chat after a few paragraphs but it stayed on the gangster theme till the end. It would have been nice to see a Transworldy 3 or 4 pages more to the interview. Oh well.

Gogo and Co`s memories of backyard jams more than made up for it,though.

For the past hour and a half i have been on gocompare.com etc trying to get my insurance back down to where it was last year.£485 for the coming year.. last year was around £340.Its strange as i have made a few changes and the same company have offered cover for £314.

Anyhow. I added another driver to see if it would bring the cost down, i`m not sure if you could add anyone to your policy.Maybe someone on here could tell you if that would be a bad move for a new driver before wasting time online or on the phone. Check out moneysavingexpert.com and run through all the tips to see if any could help you out.Putting down a high excess etc. I just filled out a heap of online bumph and also wrote down what info i gave them so i can keep track of it all.

carwise.. M reg onwards peugeot 106`s with the 1.5 diesel engine are so good on fuel. More than fast enough for a new driver. The 1.4 versions werent supposed to be very good so maybe try and steer clear. They are cheap to fix,two dh bikes with triple clamp forks can be slid into the boot with both wheels removed no problems.Also really good in the snow.

Theres heaps to choose from so for around £500 you could easily pick something up that will have a years mot with a bit of service history. At these prices its no big deal if the thing dies on you! You mentioned a car from around 2002. I would be looking at cars around 95-99? to keep the costs down. Maybe even older if they are in decent condition.

Tell them the truth and do not modify it!

[/url]
dig zx9r at glenshiel with scene black frame and swingarm 2 23 10 10[/url] by martinxyz[/url], on Flickr

My frame awaiting the build it`ll probably never see..[/url]
stay graphic 1[/url] by martinxyz[/url], on Flickr

Mates Ibis Tranny with full carbon fork,carbon rims,bars,post,chainset,saddle.. more carbon than i have ever owned! The colour is so close to the spearfish pearly met green so i know where i can find a bottle of ibis touch up paint :O)

[/url]
ibis tranny 1[/url] by martinxyz[/url], on Flickr

Rors, i would be happy with 100/120!

Oh,i hear a few folk yapping in my earpiece…

One of them asks if the rear end can be split in two with a choice of 2 separating spacers to enable 2.5″ tyres along with those 29×4″ tyres you`ll be designing in the not so distant future? :O)

Will the main pivot still have the same bearing size that motolites/racerx etc had over the years?

30 seconds – 40 seconds is on repeat. Hang 5 defying gravity 😯

Heres the ad.Actually its doctor owned from 1 year old (will i get slapped for posting an ad?)

How careful would 380ish bhp have been driven?!

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3546542.htm

Surrounded by FILTH!

lol drac, but i`m not really selling a stethoscope ;O)

* and i have never mentioned mechanic owned when selling bike stuff!

Does the ladder come dandruff free,saleem?

Well this is it.. i`m buying a car that previously belonged to Shipman.

jk

crystal meth collie

Always enjoy the way these have been filmed and edited.

When the knife goes in.. i started to feel ill. The thought of him cutting it off makes me awful.

To the point where i had to turn it off and lay down before i passed out.

Anyone else get hit hard when they watch anything with gore?

There is no route choice. You dont get to go around anything! You follow a straight line on the garmin and yer not allowed to budge from it!

Would be good to see a speeded up film of it some day.

FURgettit.

<rolls eyes and walks off> :OD