O.K. I’ve read it now and worked it out a bit better. Hat’s off to you for taking part in some kind of biking race and sorry for being confused about it. It sure beats finding 2 replies to a fork question on a bike forum compared to 1001 on the border terrier threads.

I feel bad for being very stw’y here but why use a public forum to congratulate someone.

Send him a text?

<gets off stw-type horse>

It’s the word ‘Chapeau’ that has rattled my cage more than the riddle.

ABS rings on my old 106 gti were on the hub. It make sense to put them on the disc as after a good few years they fairly get a hammered with rust.

Local ride, Monday afternoon.[/url]
Loch Ness from Dores 3 posts[/url] by martinxyzxyz[/url], on Flickr

Some systems need a certain thickness of rotor.

Do mavic state a max pressure for their rims? This is the reason Mavic are a mile ahead of Stans in every sense.. other than weight.

Oh iTs the grammir plese.

Aye, £50 minimum order. Wtf.

Ooh I’ve got the same bike. I’ll pop out later to have a looky.

Thanks,Phil. It’s a 2011 and I had a look at that link for the fit 32 rl 140mm. It has 110psi max for riders around 250lbs. 13.5 stone plus camelback and riding kit puts me around the 80psi mark.

Did they not reckon the standard version with maxton internals was better?

I nearly bought one around 2011 from Shirlaws, tested a brand new R but I decided against it. The guy that rebuilds and race tunes engines (also a daytona 675 thats won its class)kind of screwed his face up when I told him I was planning one at the time. He said when he gets in about them, they are a bit poor. I think he mentioned cam chains wearing out rather quick.. but then again that daytona will be ragged to hell.

Did they not reckon the standard version with maxton internals was better?

I need to go out, I’ll reply this eve. Thanks folks.

They do. They open up the box when the post man delivers them and have a look at the dials/air pressure. too much air will damage/bend the negative spring causing the clunk

O.K. so the fork went down 1st time and it was serviced and returned.

I refit it to find it making the noise.

Send it back down.

Get told the pressure was too high and like you said, the negative spring bending seems to ring a bell with what they told me at the time. It could have been this problem. So if I havent touched it, how can this negative air spring bend on me without riding it or inflating it?

Its not like a clunking but more like a spring in an old vanilla making a graunch. It happens through a range of about 10-20mm of the travel half way through its travel. A kind of dull noise/feel. Not metal on metal noises.

Given that had said not exceed 100psi would you not check the pressure inthe fork when you got it back after repair?

No, I rebuilt the bike and once everything was complete I pushed down on the bars before taking it for a spin outside and first felt the problem in the shed. I am not a fan of pushing forks down off the bike, it can damage top caps on delicate rods and also rebound adjusters if they are pressed into the floor. I have seen a few rockshoxs damaged by people doing this. Leaving the lockout lever slightly canted.

So there was no reason to go inflating it before refitting. I felt the problem and decided it was coming back off the bike and back into the box. I had no plans on messing around with pressures or rebound when it felt like it did. Like I said, I cycled it a heap of times to no avail and left it at that. Off it came!

Its a fit 140 rl.

Yeah, I often go to that same rule of thumb and 13.5 stone works out at around 86kg. 85psi was in the back of my mind.

14 stone (I have had the bike and been this weight a year ago) is 89kg..

and 115psi would work out at just over 18 stone. I couldn’t have ridden it at 115psi. Well I could, maybe in a road race ;O)

I am around 12.5 stone and had it at 80psi since its return. Not sure on the sag but I would guess 30-35mm with kit on + camelbak.

Sorry, it was returned and they sorted it/replaced the part FOC 2nd time around. It’s the question of sending it back down, or somewhere else (if it’s a little cheaper) but at the same time it might be quite a common thing to feel and hear in this fork. I know if it’s not right I need to send it back down but it’s sat there for a while (seals look like they have just been fitted as it’s been dry rides) but it’s the thought of sending it back for the third check. I want to get it sorted and move on. The idea of getting it to Mojo was that it had a problem at first and I guessed that they would have a good stock of spares and the knowledge, skills etc that I have seen over the past 10? odd years.

I don’t want to go sending something down for the third time if everything is fine, and this noise is something I have to live with. Don’t want to be a pain in the ass for them!

I was on a slow climb yesterday and hit a rock that I didn’t see under long grass and I felt the fork graunch a bit ..which made me wonder if I should get it seen to before something else wears out.

bump!

They were the slowest feeling fork I’ve had when dropped.

I meant – The fork that made my bike feel the slowest when the travel was dropped!

Neninja, I think it’s all about balancing the rider weight correctly regardless of fork length.

If you fitted a fork 3 inches shorter but raised the bars to the same original position, I wonder how it would all pan out?

Funkynick, even when my Marz all mountain 2 was dropped right down it would still drag on steep climbs where the weight was more towards the rear. It’s strange!

Northwind, the all mountain 2’s were as good as locked out in short travel mode. They were the slowest feeling fork I’ve had when dropped.

Then we ask why the likes of a Project two (before the longer sus corrected one’s) can romp up hills fitted to the correct frames with ease.

Andyrm, the Edison suffers from this too but I’ll tell you something, even dropped right down it still does very well compared to a lot of the other combo’s.

Been experiencing this since around 2005 with my Marzocchi’s on my 5 spot and talked on here about it back at the time. I didnt like how far the all mountain 2’s dropped as this was the biggest problem. A nightmare.

Every fork when dropped too low,drives the bike into the ground and rides slower. If people have been riding talas or u turn style forks and haven’t noticed this at all I’m surprised.

Wind a fork out a little more (my turner flux with the fork wound out to 140mm on an easy climb feels quicker than at 100mm)

I never knew Neil Lennon used this forum!

Rusty,That’s.The kind of cassette I use. ;O)

I always use shimano. For the same reason that some sram sponsored roadies have been using them too. Just don’t try and take pictures of their cassettes or question why they have sram on their jerseys but shimano hardware on the bike.

Aye, I replied about 40 mins ago. I have 2009 st’s and I would buy another pair again. Fast,stiff,hassle free apart from the occasional hub tweak at the rear.Never had to replace bearings, never powerwash them (hardly clean them at all) and only serviced the pawls etc twice. They are on a 2nd bike and have been used over each winter from around 2010. I bought them 2nd hand but were as new when I got them. The rims seem as tough as your 819’s. Mavic is quality in that sense as you know.

Like I said to Ewan earlier, I don’t ride as much as yoursels so.. ;O)

Let us know if it falls thru.. saves me going down to the shed hunting fur things ;O) Pretty sure there’s a pair in a bag somewhere.

If you add more down below it can cause other problems. I tried it a few times but found the fork making odd noises. Went back to the correct amount and it fixed the problem.

I use a pair. I also use a wide angle mirror on the top tube or the flat of the bars so I can always scan behind me on country roads up here.I’m talking around 1 car every 5 miles to give you an idea. I’m not sure how I managed to ride without music years ago (on longer road rides) as its so freekin boring.

😯

Sometimes… people say things on here that make the mind boggle.

‘thou shalt not *%£&*£!decaloguebunny!’

Good stuff! I thought you were playing in galaxy foamposites there! 😯

and on that note.. I’ll turn the computer off and go for a bike ride!

For paint to crack like it has.. in an area next to a weld, it’s most likely to be cracked.

Sanding really does nothing to help this. Paint stripper in the future!

The veya is the bike I’ve been oogling and googling over the past 6 weeks or so. Still haven’t bought one :O/

Yep, and they amazed the living daylights out of him.

The gold burner is a super burner. With tuff wheel 2’s it’s a super tuff burner.

taxi25 – Member
Sorry but this whole thread is a load of tosh. What exactly is it trying to achieve ? The only thing I can think of is it’s trying to damage a buisness that employs people, pays mortgages and supports families. Why because someone numpty doesn’t give a groveling enough reply to a cyclists complaint. Nobody got hurt, there was no accident ! If I was looking for some blinds or carprts in Berkshire and ended up here, I’d just think what a load of tools, and my opinion of cyclists would go down a notch.

+1

The latest twin pinchbolt versions retail around 85 quid but the old single pinch bolt versions are so much nicer and worth a hell of a lot more. I still have a pair on my S&M. They were bought from Rockville bmx around 88. Another pair I had are on a bike I sold to mate but I’ve heard it’s just laying around in a loft. I plan to buy that back if and when possible…

I started with a Mk 1 night burner with the round tubeset. Then an MRD expert (local bike shop wouldn’t sell my father the ‘pro’ which I asked for. Good on him, I thought the pro was the best model at the time, but he knew better for a small chap and got the expert version in. Great service from the LBS! I then bought a raleigh team issue frameset and I think I sanded it down to respray/get AD990 mounts welded onto the stays not long after. Wish I kept that one original. Then I got a 1990 Elf pro.. followed by S&M’s.