Check your tire pressure isn’t too high up front, the suspension is to track the ground, not soak up everything, so the tyre still has to have some give in it.

As above, weight over the front a bit more and attack the corners…

Discovery – I’d trust a newer one over a td5 though, I’ve not had to do anything to my D3 since I’ve sorted out the previous owners neglected items. My D2 td5 was another story though, it did have mega km’s on it though.

People are successfully taking landies through the outback for several week trips, anything can break down out there, what’s needed is some mechanical sympathy and an aversion to risky obstacles to make an overland trip less stressful.

The merino baselayer can go a while before washing, assuming it’s cold enough to wear one, but everything else is in the wash after one days use. Most days I’m dripping with sweat at the end of my 7 mile commute, but temps over 30 degrees will do that.

I do occasionally catch some people up who you can smell a good few hundred metres away, I suppose it stops the unwelcome wheelsucker though…

Sounds like it would work Mike. Are you running it in the inner or outer position, could you use some chainring spacers if it’s on teh inside of the chainset tabs? (I’m not sure where they go, given I’ve never seen one)

It’s usually okay until the combination of beards’n’axes gets involved!

I saw one of these when I was out last night, just parked up on the side of the road. Thought it looked very familiar – sounded great, not sure if it was one of the originals, but it was bound to have cost a lot to reproduce (although given where I live, I’m not suprised to see expensive cars, I appear to be surrounded by millionaires….)

Sounds like a bit of stiction in the seals, which then goes away after a few bounces have moved some lube around. Probably due to it sitting a while?

Mine seized into the mech so I had to use considerable force to get it out, it involved a hacksaw to separate it from the hanger and then a lump hammer to get it to budge. I’m not sure if the bolt had splayed a bit like yours sounds as though it’s done, but it is a tight fit anyway.

Isn’t that the phone number for the Romulan embassy?

Agree, that puts Mr. E’s argument in its place.

Could you not just get a tattoo beard? It *might* just be an elegant way around the situation….ask the tattoo artist to hide some significant dates in it somehow, that way she’ll be pleased about anniversary/birthday/whatever…..

Sram XO twist shifters – several years old and still going like a new pair.

I’d suggest a spindle spacer of sorts, rather than a BB spacer. How much movement are you looking at? The elastomer spacer would be my chioce if it’s only a small amount…

Ah okay, sounds like a spacing issue then – see if you can get hold of a wavy spring washer to place between the non drive side crank and BB – may just work in taking out the side play. My FSA and Sram cranks use them to good effect, although I’m not sure how much crush is in them and what movement they’re designed to take out.

is it both cranks moving or just the side that goes onto the splines?If it’s just the one side then try some loctite bearing compound (614 I think) on the splines to make the fit a bit tighter.

If it’s both moving and the bearings seem fine then Id suggest theres an issue betweem axle and the bearing themselves…

Does that look like an access port for an allen key or somesuch thing on the nearest leg? I’m going to go with an uspide down telescopic fork with a brand new 45.7mm oversize through axle standard……

I’m wondering if it’s possible to set up some sort of monthly contract with loctite – I do seem to use an awful lot of their adhesive products since becoming a father.

I used to use shimano A520’s with my mtb shoes, which were good enough for a while and offered a nice wide platform to negate the narrow cleat, then onto look keo’s with a cheaper pair of shimano road shoes, which offered a significant improvement in comfort. The Shimano’s seemd to develop some flex after a few years so now I’m using some Carbon Sidi’s.

IME the mtb shoes feel alright for an hour or so but any longer and the road shoes always feel better (unless you’re using really stiff mtb shoes?)

A shame for Danny, thought he looked very much like a seasoned top 3 finisher today.

Great to see McLaren up there again though, impressed with Magnussen and Button showed a lot of intelligence to get up to 4th.

I feel slightly nauseous now.

I’ve also had one of those blankets in my pack for probably about 15 years, not had cause to use it luckily.

I’ve got a 3×9 slx up front on mine with no isues. But I’m using a non indexed grip shift on the front as well.

Sram here, had it on the mtb’s for over 20 years and have just sold the shimano off the road bike after sticking with it a few years, I prefer the shifting action of Sram,so going to stick that on it instead. Sram action is a bit more positive feeling IMHO. No issues with longevity of components from any of them.

Strange, makes me think the compatability stories are all made up, I’ve just gone for a 10 speed force rear and a 22 yaw front mech, hopefully should all work well with the 2012 red shifters.

Okay, thanks njee, that saved a potentially expensive mistake.

I’ve got a 2×10 XO chainset up front with 9 at the back, been running it for about 4 years now. The set up is reasonably future proof in that you can buy different spiders for the cranks, should you want to go 1×11 later on. And obviously there’s the option of 2×10 as well.

I think I’ll only go for 10 on the back of that bike when the derailleur and shifters wear out, which may be some time given that they’re about 10 years old and still going strong….

I’d just go for the cranks at the moment if you’re happy with everything else.

My favourite response to a question asked of him, whilst following a live stage was”well……er…….I wouldn’t like to say….”

Replace, and do it before you get over here, or your wallet will feel significant pain!

It’s not much to go on, but nonetheless more positive than the press were saying last week, which is good…

I was never a big fan but hope he can make a good recovery.

Lol @ JoeG

Most of those 10 are killed in Western Australia, so there’s a real political element to shark attacks over here now, with drum lines being placed out to catch and destroy/relocate the ones that have been snared (if the’yre lucky enough to be alive after being forced to stay still for a while)It’s all a bit sad.

I fall on the side of “it’s their turf” so if you go in, it’s at your own risk and don’t ask for them to be destroyed.

Cows though, leaving their pats on the bridleways, that stuff’s hellish to clean off a bike once it’s dried, destroy them all ;)

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/science-news/10676877/High-protein-diet-as-bad-for-health-as-smoking.html

Uh-oh, high protein doesn’t help either, damn these scientists, I don’t think anyone has confirmed that cake is bad though?

I’m liking the buddy bike on your page repack rider – where do some of these ideas come from!

If you’re happy with it, then I’m happy with it, after all it’s your baike and variety makes the world go round. If we all built the same bikes then we’d look like all those hipsters, trying to look different from everyone else, yet identical to all the other hipsters! :D

*this reply may have been influenced by some lunchtime drinking, if any hipsters are offended, I apologise*

Just over 6″2″ and riding XL Rocky Mountains, around 20.5″ I think.

I had one of these for 6 months before a scrote in my school stole it…..fantastic paint job, only bettered by the avalanche that replaced it

Pic shamelessly stolen from a 2yr old thread by berniethebike

It’s not usually my legs that suffer, more my back. Noticeable when getting onto the mtb and probably has something to do with having to gnaw on the handlebars a bit more when going up the steep climbs (although this has only started happening since being knocked off and landing on my back last year)

I agree about the above comment about not wanting to see people race to a time to save tyres and fuel. If they got rid of fuel/tyre limitations and DRS I’d be happy. DRS takes away the skill of starting your overtaking move a few corners beforehand, it was good watching drivers figure out how to start a move over the course of a few laps, now it’s just wait for the line and push the button.
The KERS thing can stay, that can be up to the driver to manage how he uses it, so it’s not dissimilar to just having a better engine than the guy your racing…

Take the cage off and straighten it – done this a couple of times on my original alloy XO cage. Use a piece of glass/window to guage whether its all in line.

In Perth, Australia for 2 1/2 years now.

Miss the friends, riding buddies, sometimes the family :-)

As Mike says, you still have to work (or worry about being in it for much longer) pay bills etc but living somewhere else does change you perspective on where you came from and gives you the opportunity to do and see different things on a longer term basis than just a holiday.

I’d recommend it, the attitude we had is that the worst that can happen is you move back home, which isn’t an admission of failure or anything, just that you’ve been over the other side of the fence and seen it/done it.

There’s postivies and negatives to every location in the world….

Not really related to all of the above but has anyone changed the battery in their 50 yet? Mine dies rapidly, it gets used every day for about 45 minutes and charged when required but it’s only just coming up to 3 years old and the Bryton distributor here in Oz has told me it’s not able to change it and offered a replacement at a reduced price.
Seems like a waste to throw it away on the basis of a dying battery so I’ll probably open it up to have a look, just wondering if anyone has heard of someoen else fixing one?

So, is it worth setting up some kind of house boat business about now. From what I’m reading on the news the water just keeps getting deeper every day…