That took me a couple of minutes.

I did it in 11 days in the end. I had planned 12 but rode the 11th and 12th day in one go (my planned over night at the top of Loch Shin didn’t look that nice when I arrived).  I rode it on my 2014 Canyon Lux (29″ 100mm) carrying tent, sleeping bag and matt.  The worst day was Selkirk to Winchburg (beyond Edinburgh).  Headwind over the Pentland hills tested my resolve.  Once you’ve left the peak district most of it would be OK on a gravel bike. Not sure I’d fancy the descent into Fort Augustus on the Gravel bike though.  There’s more tarmac on the Highlands section than I’d expected but it didn’t spoil it.

I read this and immediately thought I’d been scammed on Saturday morning.  Just checked my browsing history and I was on giro.co.uk the real website.  I was trying to buy too good to be true offers that didn’t get accepted after receiving a marketing email.  Did giro/zyro screw up the real website pricing on Saturday?  I’ve even had emails back highlighting that id left stuff on my basket for a 1/10the of the retail price.

Thanks folks, this is useful info.

Thanks, I’ve just emailed SlicknSlide and rsf. I emailed sterlingbikedoctor yesterday and refreshyourride (who are nil stock with a long wait for more).

If anyone lands here researching the same topic i can now speak first hand. This is a very delayed update as I rode it as planned in mid September, but based on comments above opted for the full suss 29er (most definitely the right choice). I had 3 and half days of the most amazing blue skys, with half a day of rain to keep things real. The route is, as the posts above suggest, old school. There’s plenty of hike-a-bike in the lakes, and a bit on the moors as well. I rode it in reverse as the NY moors was home ground and I wanted to finish in the lakes. I rode solo over 4 days/3 nights, stopping in Osmotherley, Brough Sowerby and coniston. The first day was the hardest mentally, with the 10hr days seeming normal after that.

It will be either King Alfreds Way on the gravel bike or the Great North Trail on the 29er next as I’ve got the bug for multiday long distance rides.

Thanks for the input folks. Having watched a few YouTube videos of black sail and Walna scar (thanks martinhutch) I suspect the mtd is going to be much better suited to the lakes and a day id reget having taken the ‘wrong bike’.

Check ebay, I think they add the import vat at time of sale, if it is a business seller.

If it isn’t legal I’ll not be doing it. Happy to blur the lines between footpath and bridleway, but not for that distance and not in a national park (was asking as the same marking seems to be legal to ride on Snowdon). As for “why”, we all enjoy different things, life would be pretty boring otherwise. Would I ultimately end up enjoying it, possibly not but will never know without trying.

Just found a long thread on dpreview.com. sounds like they declare zero value to avoid vat/duty. Nothing but complaints on there. Will stick with a UK retailer.

I’m going to answer my own question so others have it for reference. It did need bleeding. It was a simple job (bleed kit came with the bike). I have pressure/resistance the moment I put my thumb on the button now.

done it probably 4 times now and love it. Full course for me (at least that is the aim). I’ve never had a problem entering on the day, but ususally enter in advance

bikeradar.com (am I allowed to say that here!) ran a short piece on the brakes today, but not what you’d call a review. They took a set to test after the Silverstone trade show last month so I assume they will run a full review at some point. More importantly road.cc also took a set to review (I think they are a sister sight of singletrack) so that may be more relevant when they publish it.

bikerader article 20Feb15[/url]

johnny63, I’m sure my brother would value your comments on here (and on their web site if you have a chance)

I checked, Juin Tech hold the patent and do manufacture for other brands. You can probably work the final bit of the puzzle out!

As far as we know they are the same brake

I’ll declare upfront that I’m not in dependant as my brother runs edgesportsuk.com

If you look at the link to the red ones (http://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/index.php/juin-tech/road-cx/juin-tech-r1-hydraulic-cable-pull-disc-brake-set-cyclocross.html) there are about 7 genuine customer reviews (not his mates posing as customers).

I sold a pair to a good mate that I work with and he’s chuffed with them.

They have dropped the carbon version of the Anthem, only the alloy version still in production. I very nearly bought the carbon version the other year while it was still available and regret not doing so.

I’d already have bought one if they hadn’t ditched 29″ wheels!

I’m not sure I could justify changing from 26″ to 650 as the difference in character doesn’t appear to be worth it). I’ve already other 26″ and 29″ bikes that I’d want to keep and don’t want to adopt all 3 wheel sizes.

Try almax chains. Designed for motor bikes. About the only chain that can’t be cropped. The thing with long chains is that they are incredibly heavy if they are strong enough to resist cropping. If have a 2m long almax series 4 and it is seriously heavy.

On a serious note, all they will do is hacksaw through the frame and sell the bits.

Just got my 29er hookless earlier this week. One is 370 the other is 380gms. Finish looks very good on my UD Matt. Going to build them with DT supercomps onto a set on pro2s that I’m salvaging from a pringled pair of 26″ crest wheels. No idea what they will be like with regard to reliability, but service so far has been great.

Ive ordered a pair of 29er hookless. They quoted 14days to manufacture. I currently use ArchEX and the LB are slightly wider, deeper and lighter.

You’d struggle to find a car or bike rim with a hooked rim so should be considered proven tech?

Used a road orientated one on a hard tail mtb frame. Snapped the frame in the end (i dont think it was inserted far enough but there was no min insertion instruction with the frame, just the post). Post survived unscathed. The quality isnt upto easton levels, but they are functional.

I run the DT RWS 10mm bolt thru at the back (and 9mm at front) and I do like it, but I can’t honestly say I can tell the difference. I’d steer clear of the ‘QR Type’ 10mm bolt thru axles as they are wasted down to 6mm at the end to go into the QR lever (I have one of these too but don’t use it). With QR going over-centre it also releases some pressure when completely closed. I think the superstar ones may now be hollow, but were originally steel, solid and heavy (hence cheep). The DT stuff makes sence mechanically, but it stupid expensive for what it is.

This wasn’t a name and shame, the seller and I were still talking, he had not refused to return the money, hence not naming. We resolved it amicably with no hard feelings either side.

You can’t forget to tigthen a spoken. At very worst you’d notice it when stress relieving it after the build. I hope it went out of true when that spoke slackened off?

u-turn spring bit cost around £70 ish from TFT if I remember, but that was a couple of years ago now

I went from 2-step to U-Turn, 2-step wasn’t very reliable

is that just on new bikes, or as seperate components?

no problemns with COnti RaceKing USTs on the Crest here

I bought Crests from WheelPro. Not used them much yet, but nice and light and slightly wider than Alpine for good tyre stability. I’d happily get another set.

Anything built over the last 5-6yrs will be very similar in size. I’ve got a 08R1 and it is smaller than my 2000 ZX-6R was. I’d imagine the 600 will be slightly smaller, but not much. Go try them for size.

I’ve done it 3 times now, with last years dry fast ground being the highlight. Had a cold this year so couldn’t ride it, lucky escape judging by the head wind comments!

what did they do, ream an oversize hole and re-bush?

displaying moving OS map with GPS position on your iphone. Take a look at memory-map’s website. I’ve used it with windows mobile for years (in fact it was the only reason I stuck with windows mobile!).

2-step had loads of problems with o-rings twisting and the seal failing. I converted mine to u-turn. Not sure if they ever fixed the reliability of the 2-step, certainly not when I last spoke to TFT.

it always used to be 2 bags to usa but changed to 1 earlier this year

yes, as Brant just said. 44mm is the internal diameter for zero stack headtubes, or semi-integrated as some call them. You quite obviously can't fit 1.5 dia forks to a 1.125 dia head tube.

I think you'd be OK with the TranceX (it will almost certainly be a ZS headset), but I haven't tried. The Giant headtubes are 44mm for their full length, they tend to waist them down in the middle, but the tapered steerer starts to taper very quickly so you will 'probably' be OK. The Antham Advanced has the shallow depth problem that Brant mentions, but the Cane Creek 44 lower cup only just fouled it, by 1 or 2 mm or so. The bit that fouled was just removed by me with a file (took about 30mins). It's only a cross country bike so I don't envisage problems with insert depth (and I'm not selling it so don't have to warranty it !).

My bro just paid about £110 to have his carbon road frame repaired professionally, and they have done an amazing job (Fibre-lyte). They also did a set of road bars for him.

No problem as long as it is done properly. As soon as the Boeing 787 starts operating they'll be performing structural carbon repairs on that every time someone drives a truck into it !

royal mail will just claim they were packaged inappropriately, which they were by the sounds of things. Regardless, it is Wiggle you need to speak to, if they choose to claim from Royal mail that is up to them. Your contract is with Wiggle, not RM.