Just had reply back from my MP (D Davies, Monmouthshire) and we don’t need to worry as the Crow Act will safeguard access. (Yeah right).

And he can’t tell the ‘English’ how to vote on their woods. (This is from an opponent of devolution btw).

I’ve replied pointing out that they could spend a bit more time raising money from tax dodgers, rather than cutting away like a demented butcher. (Thanks for the link to the Vodaphone/Guardian blog btw).

Marko

crankboy:

‘JAG. £62.35 per hour would make you blush. I assume you ain’t a plumber or car mechanic?’
Lost me there.
Marko

Yes to all the above and then add the Seven Stars:

http://www.7stars.co.uk/

Hth
Mark

Hi LoCo,

Well I’d be interested in an evening class.

Regards
Marko

Depends on how many free hub bodies you want to buy from the big ‘S’. Nothing wrong with an XT front and a Hope rear though.
Hth
Marko

Hi Neil,

Did I mention ‘Easy-start’ :roll:

There is no easy way to bleed these, but running it on easy-start will get it cranking enough to fire up.The ECU needs to see over 200 bar at the fuel rail to start the injection process.

A word of warning here though. Modern diesel work with very high pressures, so don’t go cracking open the injectors to see if there is fuel there, as some may suggest.
Hth
Marko

Don’t do it!

I’m part way through a mice slaughtering campaign. They seem to be everywhere at the moment – I found two trying to sneak in over the door threshold yesterday.

When I googled ‘mice in the attic’, STW forum was about eighth on the page. There must be some strange synchronicity between mountain bikes and mice.

Marko

“the cheaper stuff from b&q etc, isn’t suitable for new builds”.

So it’s not all the same. I just had some Knauf 44 Combi cut 170mm loft roll delivered by Travis Perkins at £33.16 +vat per pack. This roll covers 8.01 Sqm.

Hth
Marko

Listen to what MC has said. The glow plugs will not cause a non-start on a modern HDI engine unless it is VERY cold.

Get the new battery fully charged, install it and then turn the sidelights on for 2 minutes. Next turn the ignition on and lower the drivers window. Shut the door and crank the engine through the window.

You are in great danger of corrupting the BSI on these vehicles if you don’t follow the above ‘soft start’ procedure.

Use easy start, but as MC says don’t go mad with it.
Hth
Marko

“I may be a little heavy handed as I’ve broken the battery compartment tabs (twice) on my Alkip headlight”

Battery compartment is the weak point on the Alpkit light. I have three of them, one is in bits, one has a dodgy cap on the battery compartment and one is dead – though I suspect it’s the contacts on the battery housing.

Great light though!
Hth
Marko

If you are stuck for weather/water proof connector, then have a look here:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/multiconnectors.php

Lots of other useful bits and pieces listed as well.
Hth
Marko

Had both. Epic fail on the Aero bars that left 2 canoes on the M54. I now use Atera:

http://www.atera.co.uk/bars.php

I used to rate Thule products, but I’m not convinced anymore.
Hth
Marko

Not that familiar with the R80, but I’ve had similar issues on other forks.

First thing to try is to pop a 1/4″ drive socket – assuming you have one – in a drill. Often the fast speed of the drill will overcome the friction on the threads.

Second use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the bottom of the rod. Don’t over do, cut just enough to get a small screwdriver in there. Use the slot to hold the rod and then use a spanner on the nut.

This all assumes you have no damage to the threads on the rod or the nut and no rebound/blow off adjuster on that lower leg.

Hth
Marko

I have bought many a vehicle from car auctions – mostly from Manheim, but in the past from BCA.Just a few simple rules to follow:
1. Run away if you know nothing about cars.
2. Stay clear of the local dealer trade-ins, unless you are prepared to fix them yourself.
3. Look for ex-lease cars with a full service history.
4. Buy only vehicles with a some manufacturers warranty left – so be prepared to spend at least £5,000 or more.( I bought a VAG group car that had an intermittent Audio unit fault, fixed free, with no questions asked by VAG).
5. Ex-motability cars are a good choice, but the trade loves them as well.
6. Never buy during school holidays.
7. Avoid weekend and evening auctions.

Hth
Marko

No contest. Golden Rule.

Might be worth a read:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/focus-16-tdci-owners-also-berlingo-volvo-renault-citroen-owners-warning

Hth
Marko

I’ve got them both. Montane has heavy duty material in elbows etc, but the Buffalo has a massive chest pocket – big enough for a map and food. Other plus is you can send the Buffalo off to Sheffield for any repairs.
I can never decide, so I wear them alternatively.
Hth
Marko

Right, lets clear a few things up here:
1. Glow plugs in modern diesel are more than just a cold start aid. They also assist in emissions control and smooth running during the warm up phase.
2. Modern engine management systems can have glitches, just like your PC/Mac. Key on and off is the automotive equivalent of a system re-boot.
3. A flashing glow plug is often used as a warning for some general system fault – not just a glow plug issue.
4. Historical faults may be recorded in the cars management system, even if the warning light is now off.These can be read with a suitable diagnostic machine.
Hth
Marko

Well known in the trade as a useless engine. 1.6 ONLY though. The 1.8 is an old Ford design and not a Ford/PSA joint venture and is completely different.

Get the Haynes manual (4807). Money well spent.
Hth
Marko

Sounds like you have a small crack in the gasket or the head itself. Usually takes a long hard journey for these to show up, and still hard to pin it down 100%.
Only way to test is to get the garage to do a cylinder leakage test. Even then it may not show up. In the past I’ve left the tester in place and let it cook over night as it were. If you fill the expansion tank to the brim, any coolant on the floor the next day is a sure sign of cylinder head crack or gasket failure.

Alternatively, stick a tin of ‘block repair’ (or K-Seal) in the cooling system and see if that fixes it.

Hth
Marko

I’ve repaired a few.
The big problem is that domestic sewing machines don’t like neoprene, so I hand sew them. I replace the centre loop with a piece of tape (as found on a rucksack strap).
The heel and toe bits I’ve replaced with a combination of neoprene, glue and tape. Trick is to not destroy them too much before you repair them.
Of course what we all really want is a pair that are shoe specific and can be glued in place, just like some top of the range mountaineering gaiters!
Hth
Marko

Err…No!

I picked some up at Lidl a few weeks ago. Should have put a PSA on here, but I forgot…Doh!
Lidl ones are 3M and a lot better quality than I expected.
Hth
Marko

If you take it down the PO, they’ll say it’s too big and will have to go Parcelforce. Used to be a limit of 1.5 metres on Parcelforce, but they had to drop it as they were missing out on loads of business from the likes of Screwfix etc sending pipes – well that’s according to my Parcelforce van driver.
Hth
Marko

Also don’t forget the qualifier is a lottery. If you are on the back line of your start group you will never get through to the main race… And the French can’t organise the proverbial piss up in a brewery.
Hth
Marko

Well if your teaching kids, I think you’ll find a lot of the tools sprout legs and walk out the door. Something like this Draper kit would be a good idea:
http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2citmdsp.pgm?pp_skmno=87942&ipadd=

Count them out and count them in. You’ll need to add an adjustable spanner to sort headsets.
Hth
Marko

Lots of different makes, but you can never go wrong with a Witter:

http://www.witter-towbars.co.uk/
Others are available:
http://www.towsure.com/bespoke/towbars.html

The only issue is with the parking sensors. If you have a removable one fitted then it’s not a problem. A fixed one may interfere – or not, with the sensors. I prefer fixed bars as they have a simple built-in parking sensor – reverse, reverse, bang, stop, car parked.

Can’t help on a local company, but for a single electrics Tow bar expect to pay upwards of £250. Simple job to DIY btw.
Hth
Mark

Well you’ve got me confused :|

1.Outlook Express is no longer supported, so that’s got to go. Microsoft would like you to jump to ‘Live Mail’.
2. All your mail should be on you ISPs web based server.
3. Easy to set up your NEW Gmail address to collect the mails from your ISP/Outlook Express.

Well that’s what I did when I left Mr Branson.
Hth
Marko

Troutie and BCT.

Mr Trout, YGM.
Mr BCT, I’ll just go for the easy external battery option then. Please mail me when you have checked your stock (markostoreyATgmailDOTcom).
Thanks for the replies
Marko

Cherry Tree (Tintern) drinking Kingstone Classic or Butty Bach, but I might have to move to where TJ lives if they sell Bitter and Twisted.
Marko

OK, I’m late to the party…

Mr Trout, did you get my mail?
Mr BCT I need drivers + bits and pieces to build 2 lights.I intend to build one helmet mount and one bar mount light.

So if I’ve got this right I need:
4X reflectors – Mr T.
4X LED – Mr T.
2X Cases – Mr Maplin.
1X Bar mount – Mr Lumicycle.
1X Helmet mount – Mr?
2X Switch – Mr Rapid.
2X Jack plug (male) – Mr Rapid.
2X Jack plug (female) – Mr Rapid.
1X Battery mount for internal fit – Mr BCT.
1X Battery mount for external fit – Mr BCT.
1X Battery bag for top tube – in stock.
?X AA batteries – Mr?? or Mr Smudge?
2X Heat sink – in stock.
2X Polycarb sheet – in stock.
1X Heat conducting adhesive – Mr??
Various bis of wire,screws and flex – all in stock.

Anybody care to fill in the blanks?
Regards
Marko

Possibly just brake dust trapped in the drum. You need to remove the drum to check. A leaking wheel cylinder may also be an issue.
Hth
Marko

coastkid: Correct.

I’ve used TFR for years, just dilute it properly. All the specific Bike ones are just marketing tosh.
Hth
Marko

I’ll be there.
Cold.
Wet.
Camping.
Drinking.

Living the dream….

Marko

Jimmers:

I’ve used various kits – Gelert, Goretex and Thermorest. They all work short term, but if you wash your jacket often, as you are supposed to, they all start to peel off.
I found the best repair is to use seam sealer:

http://www.uttingsoutdoors.co.uk/Product/184/100457/terra-nova-multi-purpose-tent-seam-sealer-glue-50ss25?src=froogle

Use a patch (or just use masking tape to hold it together) on the inside and sealer on the outside. It leaves a bit of a scar like ridge, but it’s never an issue.

Hth
Marko

Several projects on the go in Bristol. Don’t quote me but an ‘all weather’ XC track in Ashton court, jump park/pump track under the flyover in Hotwells. Upgrade to the Eastville park pump track/jumps just past the Lake.

Not called the cycling city for nowt you know!

Hth
Marko

TheLittlestHobo:

Yes I was just trying to stand up for the poor MOT tester. I think there are only 3 people in the entire world who defend the poor maligned motor trade!
(runs and hides)

Marko

VOSA would tell the tester to pass and advise in this case.

COVER YOUR A**E!

So you take it away with a legitimate pass and sell it 6 weeks later to the local boy racer who destroys the brakes in a week. He complains to VOSA that they passed a car with duff brakes. VOSA check and look at the advisory sheet. VOSA are happy and the tester still has a job.

Of course you did sell the car with the advisory sheet didn’t you?

richmtb: Just a general comment and not directed at you btw.

Marko

Well I missed those, so if you have no other offers I’ll take them
Ta
Marko

I have one – and the Buffalo one. Both very good, but I prefer the Buffalo because of the large map pocket. Also the Buffalo is made in Sheffield and not China.

Rab Vapour rise is another alternative.

Hth
Mark