It must be a bike uplift day then I guess.

If you are taking bikes out to Australia then be sure to get them spotless. They are very fussy about what else you may be bringing in unknowingly with you.

Loads of good pointers so far. Here is my addition.

You can get old tyres to work as tubeless, even ghetto tubeless. Check them for cuts and tears carefully.

Inflate with a tube installed to seat the bead on the rim. Break one bead to get the tube out and to re insert the removable valve stem. brush plenty of soapy water over the bead and get some all over the spokes as you may be leaking here and round the valve stem. Take the core out of the valve stem, it is nigh on impossible to get enough air in quick enough with the core fitted IME. Pump up to reseat the bead. finger over the valve stem is fine for initial checking of leaks/bubbles. Check where the bubbles are coming from, anything untoward? When you are happy that it is generally air tight you can get some Stans etc in through the valve stem. The clean nozzle from a caulking tube works ok as a funnel. Re insert the valve core and re inflate.

Other tips are to put a tube round the outside of the tyre like a big rubber band to help with initial inflation to seat the bead.

Hi Scud,

What size was your USB battery pack? This is the biggest capacity I have seen as most I had seen were half as powerful at about 5,000 mah.

Another option then is to have a look at The Garmin Montana. It has a rechargeable battery pack that lasts upto 16 hours and then you can replace that with 3 AA’s that will keep it going for up to 22hrs. This will give you turn by turn navigation in the same way as the car sat nave and can be used as such.

Sorry I may not have made this any easier…

Why not get a USB battery pack for the Iphone and then it will last all day. This works well for me. http://www.gobabymobile.com/products/10000mah-power-pack.html

I have the Panracer version where you cut strips (worms) from a piece of rubber and then coat it in glue before spiking in to the hole. Works a treat.

Mark – where do you find bearing spec/size. I looked on simply when looking for my last lot but couldn’t work it out.

The bearing number should be on the seal. Failing that just measure the old bearing or check the tech manual for the hub etc as that normally has the bearing details. On the simply site just enter the bearing number or size in the search boxes in the top left hand side of the web site.

I had the Halfords one and it was good. It got used on and off road(fire tracks etc) and survived.

The heckler has lifetime bearing guarantee so the should be a free swap old for new at any SC dealer.

Take a look at the SC site for the techy bit on how to fit etc.

http://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/pdfs/SL-H-Ju-Bearing%20Overhaul%20Instructions.pdf

should cover it for you.

I have always had excellent service from http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/

The Leatherman I have compliments the bike multi tool.

I do not recall the legs moving on the maxle. I think the avail springs are soft, std, firm and x firm. How much under 80 kg are you. Do not forget that you ride with Camelbak etc so that will add to your weight. The right spring is fitted if when you sit on the bike you get about 25% sag. So when you sit on the bike you want the front to have compressed by about 25mm. If wound down you will be looking at 95mm travel. Make sure that this is when you sit on the bike and not when you bounce on to it.

It could be that there is a soft spring fitted and you need to move to std.

Just because the human eyes point forward does not mean that is the only direction we should look. Lucky escape. Cyclist in cycle lane and you obstructed her path. 1mtr or 10mtr left makes no odds. She may well have been slowing down and that is what saved you. Chalk it up to experience and move on.

I have been running PC951 chains for years across a couple of bikes and not had any issues. Mashing gears and over shifting off the end of the cassette will not help a chains life. Could just have been a bad one.

My advice is find a set of knee pads that work for you and use them. MTFU will not stop a sharp edged rock!

+++

Yeah you may not fall off and smack your knee on something hard but if you do at least it has some protection.

Check it and top it up. It does eventually dry up/get used up. If you cant hear it sloshing around then you need to top it up. If not when you do puncture there is nothing to seal it.

Tubeless is the answer to thorns or you could try the plastic strip in between tube and tyre. Seen them but never tried it so no idea how effective it is.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_920509_langId_-1_categoryId_228377

Slime used to do a kevlar strip as I recall.

Edit Decathlon have them as well.

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/kevlar-anti-puncture-strips-x2-id_8215460.html#avantages

What are mates for if not for grassing on.. 😆

I have used them for a few years now with no issues on various bikes/brakes.

Glad that you are generally okay despite being knocked off. Given your bruises do you think you will be up for the event next weekend? If you are the can you get a demo bike from the shop looking at your bike?

If you can not get a bike or are fit enough for the event due to the off then add the costs of the event to your claim. CTC should be able to help guide you on this as well.

Please Search Answer? I will get my coat….. 😀

Not used Mojo but have used TF Tuned and it was back within 4 days memory. Speak to Mojo and they will be able to give you an ETA of return.

Oh and it sounds like time to get another bike. 😀

Meths/IPA to clean all the old fluid off the rotor and caliper. As has been said it sounds like a re bleed is needed. Do not mix fluids, Dot vs mineral as the seals will suffer etc if you put the wrong stuff in. Old pads are shot but I guess you know that.

just watched all the vids on the stans site, is it really that awesome???

I have come back to my bike the day after ride to check it over and found roof tacks in the tyre. Removed and self sealed fine. Top the tyre up a bit and job done.

The Stans site used to have a list of tyres that would work/not work well as I recall. I have used Maxxis, Panaracer, Nevegal on Bonty TLR rims and ghetto. The Panaracer was the worst as it leaked a lot through the tyre walls.

Word of warning. The latex solution does have a useful lifetime in the tyre but you should check it say every six months tops. It will dry out and get used as it does its job. Nothing worse than getting a puncture out on the trail and finding no sealant left in the tyre.

That should do you. I assume the tape is correct for the rims. Check out the no tubes website for the “how to” video. Get a brush/cloth and some bubbles. Take the valve core out to get the bead seated first time round would be my advice.

Have a look at the Park Tool web site. They have a very good bike maint guide avail on line.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/hub-service

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

have some wobble in my rear hub

Replace the bearings, problem sorted.

+++ It is going to be worn bearings, loose balls or cartridge type. Both are relatively easy to sort. Much more cost effective than a new wheel. Never had a shop do it for me so not sure of their cost. As I rcall I have spent about £15 on getting cartridge bearings and then just knocking the old ones out and swapping. All done in 30 mins.

It could even be that the cones are loose if you have a cup and cone hub.

The rain gutter drain hole under the battery gets blocked with leaf debris as I recall.

I would’ve of said Passat…. Until two hours ago the automatic handbrake decided it didn’t want to be on anymore and the car would be far better parked into my neighbours….

I had the opposite with my Passat and the electric handbrake would not disengage. When I went googling seems this is a common issue of letting go or holding tight at the wrong time.

Saying that I have had 2 Passat estates and they have both been good. I just would not have the electric brake ever again.

If storing for an extended time I would tend to avoid hanging the tyre on one point, especially as you are tubeless. My concern would be the tyre taking on a bit of an egg shape that may hinder a bit when refitting as tubeless. I could be wrong BTW.

Glad you seemed to have got it sorted.

Given that it seems to happen when riding it therefore when chain has load applied I would strongly suspect the chain/cassette. You say new bike. Is this new out of the box never been used or newish, ridden and been okay for a while but now has the issue.

Needs a strip clean and re-grease I reckon. As above water in the grease is most likely suspect. Check it sooner that later else you will knacker the pawls if they are not already done.

And I thought £20 was a bit steep.

Warm it with hair drier / heat gun.

Duct tape or insulating tape works a treat for replacing the missing filler.

I reckon that you will regret not having a remote. I fitted the KS Lev to my Heckler and managed with very few zip ties. The Lev routes to a fixed point on the post at the QR so does not have the big loop buzzing the tyre issues. Having the lever under post is not much of a step up from the QR on the seat post in my eyes.

Are you sure its not an ali frame and steel post – that would be a disastrous but also hilarious mistake to make!

The seat post would no longer be stuck fast though.

KS LEV Service video.
May help you to get it apart etc. The kevlar thread is a favourite for this issue.

Salt is a preservative so you will be fine. 🙂