Does the raffle money go to a charity or something??

“Fairly certain the seals are sticking to the caliper during storage and tearing when reused”

Not a prayer.

The seal groove is contaminated with dirt ingress, water and maybe a little corrosion as a result.

If anyone wants to send me their “broken” calipers I’ll happily take them. I’ve got Shimano calipers that are maybe 15 years old and running perfectly.

It won’t need replaced, they’re extremely durable.

The caliper hasn’t ‘failed’. It just needs cleaned and reassembled.

Recently set up the same one on a road bike after a good 18 years or so of not having one on any of my bikes.

Took me three days of messing before i realised i wasn’t throwing the lever far enough to shift up. After I’d figured that bit out it wasnt too bad. I didn’t find the manual too bad but also not great either.

Got sent one recently by an ebay seller. Ebay awere totally useless. Lesson learnt.

Jagwrire dropper housing is a must. I struggled a lot with a new style 5010 frame, really persevered with it but had no joy. The jagwire went through like a rat up a drainpipe. First time.

I’ve also noticed that there’s brake oil seeping out of a side port when I pull on the lever.

Sounds like you’ve already found the problem I’d say.

Just got one fitted to my 2019 Golf. Bought the towbar for £130 brand new on Ebay and got a guy to fit it on my driveway for £170 without the electrics. He said he’ll do that for another £80.

He had it done in under an hour. He told me obviously some cars are easier than others and that Range rovers have approximately 150 fasteners that need undone an redone ?

If it’s a carbon frame it could be the aluminium sleeves that are bonded to the frame which have become loose 😳

We did 4 rounds without success. All privately. One miscarriage was as far as we got.

My advice, don’t stop doing things like going for the occasional bike ride except maybe a week out from egg collection etc. I think it’s an unnecessary stressor. Obviously stop drinking and eating rubbish if you do that.

Don’t be afraid to tell the clinic if they’re changing things you thought went well in previous rounds.

This one is very important. Be very, very careful about who you share the fact that you’re going through this with both during and after. Even way after. Can’t emphasize this enough. Tell your missus that aswell.

GOOD LUCK 🙏

Is there resistance at the lever?

Personally I’d split the caliper and pop out the pistons and seals. Clean the seal grooves, lubricate everything and reassemble. Easy job and quick job that will have it working like new.

No harm mc but you’re simply describing how to setup a fork to your preference.

Setting a spring so that you’re using full travel isn’t the right way to approach things imo.

Compression damping is wholly necessary too if you want great feel.

Bracketing is the way to go. Never shockwiz.

Spent more than a few hours trying to run a standard cable housing with no joy.. the 3.0mm jagwire housing pushed through first time with no help, no magnets, nothin.

Pricey but the routing on a V4 5010 is no good for a normal stiff brake housing.

Hope this helps 👍

I will say also that I’ve got a Spesh stumpy ’19 and the horst link bearings were in great condition when i pulled them out after about three years of use. I was really impressed and also annoyed at the same time 🤣

I’m going to say that dirt ingress can lead to premature wear of the bushing housing/bore? Just my guess as i have a couple of frames that have Igus bushings in the linkage and you have to stay on top of them here in the uk.

I’d set fire to it personally.

No harm to Ric.. im sure he’s a good guy but i don’t want to listen to him at all, or Cedric for that matter. Its a backward step for the DH which was going from strength to strength with Warner and Redbull.

Not opposed to change but this is a definite backward step.

I just can’t stand anything GCN.. it’s just so shit ☹️

I’ll be watching everything midweek when Eurosport show it this year

I think its maybe just residual Oil from the service. Wipe it away each time it appears and monitor it. It’ll probably stop appearing after two or three times.

Trading 212

Pretty much fee free compared to HL and AJ Bell..

I’ve found it quite easy to make money on there compared to AJ Bell where you need to drop seven or eight hundred per trade (stocks) to make it worthwhile.

as gold.

1. it’s not the older brakes which give problems is seems to be everything after 775 and the 9/10 speed stuff.

2. Even if it is the seals and they’re an easy fix – why does it always happen ONLY to Shimano and Only after 2011? Maybe a new seal will fix it, for a time, but the next time you go out, do you really want ambiguity in brakes?

The caliper design of the mtb brakes is unchanged.. probably been the same twenty odd years. I’ve got old brakes and new ones.. the caliper is still the same.

You don’t need new anything either ime.. the seals are very hard wearing and just need cleaned.

@MrChrispy

Emailed you man!

Easily fixed.. the calipers are very basic.

It’s likely dirt ingress in the piston seal groove. Fully disassemble, clean groove, reassemble.

Ive got shimano calipers on one bike that must be 15 years old. They’re good as gold.

Face value for anyone interested.. 35 each

Stealth ad.. ive two tickets to see them in Manchester this Friday if you’re interested.

I made a post on this forum asking how i might repair something on a 4 year old Ibis frame id just purchased second hand.

Somebody from Ibis saw that post and DM’d me before offering a no fault replacement for the damaged part. Outstanding.

Hope you get a result op.. it doesn’t sound like you have been treated fairly imo.

The Piston seals are very hard wearing.. I’ve never replaced them when refurbing calipers. A quick clean and they’ll be grand.

The problem has always (ime) been Fod in the seal groove.

I find it very curios that the engineering giant that is shimano haven’t managed to find the root cause of the VBP condition and instead persist with the same basic design year after year after year 🤔

Unless of course… User error 🧐

Maybe you should have gone to the latest DC comics offering instead?

In my hope hub i put a small dab of ren n tacky on the seat of the pawl and a generous helping of stendec suspension grease on the ratchet itself. Nice and quiet after that and no problems so far.

Very nice 🤌

Krep the updates coming.

All depends where you ride mainly imo.. I’ve switched to 165 on my stumpjumper and its a massive help being able to pedal through sections where you wouldn’t risk it on longer ones.

Think im running 170 on a Mojo3 which are good also.

Bb height should be factored in when deciding i think.

Wouldn’t got back to 175 again on my mtb’s.

Never really had trouble with that combo of rim, tyre and insert myself. Maybe put the the tyre on first at 40psi and leave for a night before throwing the insert in the next day? Should be very easy to do with just your hands then.

I swear by those tyre lever plier things though if you’re just going to go straight for the kill.. never use old school levers anymore tbh.

I’d be interested in the calipers if youd like to sell Munkeh?? Hit me with a Pm.

If you confirm you’ve got a leak its not the end of the road for the claiper.

If it looks to be the oring at the transfer port you’re laughing. Easy fix.

If you’ve got oil leaking from the piston seals it’s likely that the seal groove is contaminated with dirt and corrosion. Split the caliper, force the pistons out with compressed air.. remove seals then clean the seal groove as best you can. I used a dremel and a nylon wheel with a bit of metal polish

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VCb9JK2tZ2At5A_LHLGh5SqodbZw7r9e/view?usp=drivesdk

Reassemble.

Now bleed your brakes as shown below.

Those calipers in the pic must be ten years old. With a clean and that bleed method theyre working flawlessly. I can’t recommend that bleed technique enough for the wandering bite point problem.