Scottish Power (Iberdrola)
http://www.scottishpower.jobs/opportunities/index.html
Cockenzie, Longannet etc

British Energy (EDF)
http://www.british-energy.com/
Hunterston, Torness and East Kilbride.

Scottish and Southern

National Grid

British Gas

companies like these dont mind speculative approaches, if only to enhance their public relations.

Bont

There was something in last weeks New Scientist magazine about how long you can survive without food and water. You still need Vitamin B (B1) to metabolise (use up) the body fat even if you do drink and dont eat. So to lose body fat requires a decent supply of nutrients / good food.

Highpath

Bike in small car:

http://www.fullthrottlemcsac.com/gpage2.html

Not just cachet (looks too much like crochet, sorry) but improves road holding.
http://www.uniflate.com/
Do your hands not get dirty if you hold the road?

In the 1930's Mercedes were concerned about tyres reacting with the oxygen in the tyre but realised that it was not worth worrying about.

Nitrogen does obey Boyle's Law
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/airplane/aboyle.html
and Dalton's Law of partial pressures.

The aerospace requirement for dry air is because any moisture (however small) could freeze in the tyre with possible wheel balance problems.

This stuff about nitrogen and pressure…….. how do the nitrogen suspension systems of Citreon cars work? how do air compressors work if air is 78% nitrogen? how does the internal combustion engine work? why do modern engines have EGR valves?

A quote from the Kwikfit web site
"Nitrogen
Filling your tyres with nitrogen may seem odd but that’s exactly what motor sport and aviation professionals have been doing for years. Nitrogen is completely safe. And by using it in a mixture with oxygen to inflate your tyres the theory is that it’s possible to negate the issue of slow deflation, which is caused by oxygen slowly infusing through the tyre wall from the atmosphere.

Having a tyre that does not deflate means you will improve fuel consumption and will probably improve safety standards too. It’s not yet standard practice but Nitrogen could well be here to stay as a result."
http://www.kwik-fit.com/tyre-technology.asp

"….slowly infusing through the tyre wall from the atmosphere"

Sort of destroys any cache value of being able to say that you have 2% more nitrogen in your tyres than the next guy when it is Kwikfit nitrogen.

The filling your tyres with nitrogen idea is just so in motor sport at least you have cylinders of nitrogen ready to use instead of a noisy compressor waiting to break down when you most need it.

Plus the process of purging the air from car tyres several times to try to get a higher concentration of Nitrogen in the tyre is only going to gain 3 or 4 % nitrogen.
http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html

"withstand normal rain-water type corrosion"
What is rainwater type corrosion?
How light / heavy is light corrosion , does it make the frame heavier?

On older road bikes (Reynolds 653, Columbus KL amongst others) sometimes the chainstays would corrode through from the inside. It was only when the paint was blasted from the frame, prior to respraying that small spots / patches of orange/brown (rust) could be seen on the otherwise matt grey freshly blasted chainstays.

A couple of winters riding along salt encrusted roads probably contributed to the rusting.

Low alloy steels such as Reynolds 853 probably are slightly more corrosion resistant than mild steel, but only slightly.

From the Reynolds site http://reynoldstechnology.biz/faqs/materials/1
with reference to Reynolds 953
"Corrosion resistance is similar to type 410 stainless steels. In normal use, brown staining of the surface does occur due to sweat, salty roads etc if not protected/painted. The staining can be removed with "scotch-brite" or an equivalent, and trials have shown that this is a superficial stain that does not weaken the tubes."
Thats stainless steel corrosion that they are talking about, not low alloy steel.

http://www.dreamlandresort.com/black_projects/machrihanish.html
http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=91750
RAF Machrihanish

Dry lube = do not go out in the rain, doesn't it?

http://www.robedwards.com/2009/08/faslane-poses-risk-of-societal-contamination-says-mod.html

The ship lift at HMNB Clyde Faslane and its associated rail system of craddles can be seen from the hills around Gare Loch.

Cold galvanising spray / aerosol .

http://blog.modernmechanix.com/mags/ModernMechanix/2-1938/belt_bike.jpg

Definately worth looking at the filter in the shower unit, it is very small.
But how old / long has the shower been used? If only a year or less then the water supply is dirty, the filter should not get blocked if the water is good/ clean.

Have a look at youtube, and see what catches your eye.

Have a look at http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/driver_power_2009/

and the 2010 survey results are in the current magazine in the shops.

There are some stories about Saab engines and sludge http://www.carbibles.com/sludge_casestudy.html

Sometimes worth looking here http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/

Motley fool had a book that was worth reading plus this
http://www.fool.co.uk/Investing/guides/The-Best-Books-On-Investing.aspx

Continental say:

"Tyre Maintenance
Take some simple steps to ensure you get the best possible life out of your Continental tyres.

Sunlight – Tyres do not respond well to prolonged sunlight (ultra violet) exposure. The tyre rubber will become weak and will eventually crack and break up. Store your cycle away from direct sunlight when possible.

Damp – Damp storage conditions will also shorten your tyres life. If you’ve been out in the rain, make sure your bike is left in a dry atmosphere immediately following your ride.

Not using the bike for a while? Store the bike upside down, or hang it up to prevent tyre deformation.

Inspection – Inspect your tyres before every ride. Check for cuts and wear & brush off any road debris attached to the tread.

Most importantly – Tyre pressure. Inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure in this guide. Carrying a heavy load? If so, then increase the pressure up to and including the maximum shown in this guide." http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/technical_safety.shtml

If the inside of the frame is not treated ie painted, phosphated etc.. There is J R Weigles framesaver.
But anything from Duck Oil to Zinc primer paint would be better than nothing. There is also ACF 50.

http://www.brammer.co.uk/uk/Ball_bearings_brammer.aspx

http://www.cyclingscotland.org/dailyrecordtryoutcathkinbraes2014mtbtrack.aspx

2014 Commonwealth Games course Cathkin Braes.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/campsie-fells-and-fintry-hills-routes

service@hopetech.com

Kunstrad

There is an article in the April (current) issue of Car Mechanics magazine that has some info on air con maintenance.

HOPE have email.

"existing ECU"????
I take it that you like a challenge, and do not mind failing.

youtube

There is a bike involved, but no pedaling.

http://www.5min.com/Video/Bikeskillscom-Pump-Track-Fundamentals-11257582

Its even easier than this
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/race_face_bb_instr1.pdf

There is no need to take the cups out of the frame. Take cranks off and knock the bearings out from the opposite side, ie use a flat end punch in from the right to knock the left bearing out and viseversa. New bearings can be pressed in by hand.

There is stuff like http://www.kemfast.com/content/adhesives-sealants/ez-grip-compound-new.html
that is usefull for preventing stuff sliding, creates friction between two smooth metal surfaces.
Although it is designed for allen keys in allen screws and screw drivers in screws to prevent them silpping it can be used for other things.

If its the bearings that are worn out then just replace the bearings?

""Any job" and am indeed very flexible on that front. I just wonder if there's any field in which one can complete a vocational course (of a year of so) and actually look forward to a career at the end of it."

Army, Navy or Air Force .
An artificer in the navy is worth considering.

http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/operations-and-support/establishments/training-establishments/hms-sultan/news/artificers-fall-out-for-final-time/265346/*/changeNav/6568

Tinleytech might be able to help.

"Try another shop"
http://www.thecyclingexperts.co.uk/cycle-industry-jobs/?page=2&searchterms=&searchtype=any&postcode=&towncity=&browsecounty=&letter=

http://www.cyclus-tools.eu/laufrad.html?&L=3

spoke ruler

The LPG tank is in the car and takes up a lot of space. Even if it is put in the spare wheel well, where do you put the spare wheel ?

What car is it?

Specialist air con people, you can find in the yellow pages, can use UV lights and dyes to find the leaks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDawlrIeaVM

Neither Norwich Union nor NFU where interested, in LPG cert, when I insured with them.

What are the symptoms?
If the car is a few years old the pipework might be corroded / leaking. The compressor might be dead.