not sure what you mean, the XT chainset is 5 mm out than the SRAM chainset, an additional spacer would bring it more out than it is already,

Ahh got you. I read ‘out’ as being different as opposed to 5mm further out.

m1kea – yes I’ve already done that. I put them there as I didn’t know what I was doing and was trying to brake while on the drops. Rarely on the drops now so have moved them up and it’s much better.

8)

‘Compact’ chainsets are all the rage these days and typically are 50/34.

It’s been a very long time since I had 7 speed and I’m not sure if the width of the older chains will be too much for a more modern 9 or 10 speed chainset.

On rare occasions I run my old 8 speed Mavic trispoke and have never had problems using it with 9 or 10 speed chains. – Might be worth a new chainset and chain?

Off topic but I’d look to remount your STI levers further up to have a nicer ‘riding on the tops’ experience.

Scott, MrP

I’ve been on the WM site and didn’t see any explicit mention of their units being geared for road use (68mm?).

I’ll wait until the new wagon arrives and see what the BB shell comes in at.

amt27

Could you not spacer out the c/set as you normaly would with a conventional BB? Their website suggests (their) spacer kits as required.

Erm…won’t the BB30 bearings, by definition, be completely different to your last ones?

If you mean in relation to where they sit in the frame, then yes though who knows about the bearing quality.

However I want to know more about adapting BB30 as I’ve not used any of these new BB standards.

Bike & Non Bike

16 X 12 shed

+1 fro Ariadne’s comments.

DEFINITELY worth finding like minded folk locally to ask and share with.

I’ve loaned kit to friends before and in fact still have a mate’s 2X extender that I really must give back to him.

I’d look at saddle height as well as cleat float.

Don’t forget that you’ll move about on a MTB a whole lot more compared to a road bike.

Look and Egg beater user here.

REALLY not a fan of tilt shift photography for some reason.

I agree it can be very overdone and if you look at my little test gallery, only three have the the obvious miniaturisation effect (had to be done as a first play). I was personally much more interested in proper correction, and stitching images together.

Oh and which one’s were HDR’d? 😉

Ta

Big Whites are horribly addictive 8)but then so are tilt shifts.

😆 😆 to the spying comments.

One of the outputs was this

Which is probably my best moon shot.

However I’ve always maintained that the image quality of full frame sensors plss all over crop sensors. To this day I prefer the IQ from my 5D mk1 to my 7D.

grum – Member

Don’t go anywhere near the forums on dpreview IMO – full of horrible trolls and measurebators.

Couldn’t agree more, deeply unpleasant.

Getting in to a system can be very expensive;

Here’s a cut n paste from a email I sent to a friend yesterday

400mm f2.8 – £8700
2X extender – £430
1.4 X extender – £430
EOS 7D with Grip and Kirk L Bracket – £1440
Gitzo tripod – £600
Arca ballhead with Wimberley sidekick – £560

A bargain £12160 though I should point out I hired that lens!

Don’t ever moan that bike gear is expensive….. 😆

All good advice here and I echo IA and AlexSimmon’s posts.

FWIW I’m a Canon man but always tell folk to try the different brands.

You didn’t mention video which is very popular and on this basis I would also suggest looking at the micro 4/3 kit from the likes of Panasonic etc.

Like what Alan has said there 🙂 but I will disagree on the SWA cabling.

2.5mm would be fine for the proposed load but if you’re going to wire stuff up, why not go a bit overboard and put something in with a higher rating?

Who’s to say you won’t want to run more stuff in the outbuilding in the future, which could mean having to redo it?

Just a thought

Oh and here’s a useful guide

i appreciate STW is a quriky kinda place, but what you two are saying is odd.

im beginning to think i’m being wound up.

I’m definitely not on a wind up as I like doing silly things like this. So much so than some of my ‘friends’ 😛 have joked that I should ride my TT bike around the likes of Stanmer Park in Brighton.

no need to pay big money for a TT bike to knock 20-30 seconds off my time, but likewise REALLY no point in riding my mountain bike at 18mph and coming dead last…

A TT is you against the clock. Yes you don’t want to be ‘last’ but I’m never going to be at the sharp end of a field and doing something different spices riding up.

Oh and as ChrisE has alluded to, being smooth is important and trying to tame a full susser is very good (and hard) practise on the road.

You’d still need to use the granny & middle positions if converting a triple to a 40/28 double. It’s just not possible to fit anything smaller that a 32T ring in the middle position on Shimano 104 BCD cranks, the attaching bolts would be too close to the teeth, and foul the chain.

Cheers Perthmtb, this is the sort of stuff I need to take in to account.

RichardK

Empirically I reckon a pointy hat is good for 15 – 20 secs on a 10.

You’ll also find testers are generally an older lot and I know plenty of 50, 60 and 70 year olds who can whip people half their age. – My minute man this Sunday is 27 years older than me and I have 50 miles to hold him off.

tracknicko – Member

why?

Because I’m an idiot :lol:. I’ve done a few open TT’s on the FS and do need to see if I can beat my best 25 time

Sorry for the confusion.

Rightly or wrongly I try and stay in the big ring as much as possible and would want a 39+ sized outer ring. Only on muddy drags or steep hills do I go to the granny if I can help it.

A 28/40 double crank would probably give the best gear spread if I go up to a 36 cassette (currently on 32s atm) so I was trying to work out if I can tweak my existing triple kit.

Weeksy, my knees would explode if I tried to spin 32 X 11 for any length of time. 😆

Sorry guys I forgot to add that I would probably want the big ring for speed.

Would it be fair to say that folk generally use the granny and middle when ‘downgrading’ to a double?

TT’s on a full susser are quite fun though, in a deliberately awkward, make life difficult for yourself kind of a way.

Cheers SJ

I hadn’t given changing the rings any thought whatsoever 😳

From that I presume you have a ‘gap’ where the outer ring was?

It’s a tool for stalking people, and tracking down people you lost touch with years ago (who never kept in touch with you for a reason)

Ahh that’s OK I’ve never had any friends 😆

What is this Facebook you speak of?

dirtyrider

short shock a blur ltc

Not sure I CBA to rebuild a bike to lessen the travel. However emails have gone out to explore costs of both bikes.

scaredypants – Member

I once had a guy on a TT bike draft me for a couple of miles

Eventually he went past really quite fast so I sped up to get his wheel. Within about 5 seconds he braked to a stop (me nearly hitting him) and said “this is where I live”

That’s just rude on his part. I’d never draft someone without drawing alongside and exchanging pleasantries and asking to ride along with someone, especially when on the TT wagon.

Full on wheel sucking is only allowed when doing a team time trial.

Here are my snaps from the 8 up TTT tribute weekend for our clubmate Brian Phillips who sadly died on this event last year.

We had two former world champions ride on the team; Michele Bartoli and Andy Pitt[/url], and a former TDF yellow jersey holder, though Sean didn’t ride. Not bad going for a small Sussex club. 😉

Oh and in there you’ll also spot some slaphead muppet with a camera who’s not much cop riding in a team as was witnessed on Sunday

Get a can of cheap hair spray and spray the post. (I am being serious)

I suspect Monty Young has stopped doing wheels at Condor but they might be worth considering.

Pete Wise at Geoffrey Butler Cycles in Croydon is a top spanner man 8)

zippykona – Member

So to clarify am I in trouble or not?
Can I expect to be duffed up at the traffic lights tomorrow?

I think we need pics of the person and also find out how far they have been riding for at the moment you meet.

I know one chap who has 30+ mile one way commutes and I doubt he’d be interested in ‘racing’ the last mile or so.

Cheers Simon but you’re waaay oop norf 😆 from me plus the 30th is Goodwood Festival of Speed day. (Oops did I mention motorised vehicles on a bike forum?)

Nowt worse than a wheel sucker and if I’d said hello to you and then had you hang on, I’d have backed right off to let you go in front. 😛

Paceman

Sorry, Clown Wheels are for road bikes and I have plenty already !

Simonbowns

I prefer longer distance / faster riding. Had some fun twidling round Stanmer Park near Brighton last year but I also clocked up a fair few miles on the South Downs though only did one race in the form of the Thetford D2D. Mr Sterry’s Triple ride has also got me wondering about finally completing my Double attempt.

Have you actually ridden an XC? Otherwise hard to compare them? I think, if you were comfortable climbing what you normally ride on a TRc then why not take the slacker angled frame for the additional fun on the descents?

No I’ve not had the chance to try a XC and I’m under the impression that these aren’t going to be around for very much longer due to the current preference for 29ers.

Twas also my first time in the Surrey Hills so I didn’t get a like for like comparison with a long twiddlingfest of say a South Downs climb.

I’d definitely start with getting your measurements worked out (no not those sort of measurements you pervs :roll:)

Leg and torso length are the two key ones to work to and in many respects torso length is the more important. – Too long a frame is never going to be comfortable though a taller seatpost and longer handlebar stem can help off set a slightly smaller frame.

If you are going to do triathlons you’ll want a set of aero bars which get you into more of a streamlined tuck position. This also brings you forward on the bike which highlights the importance of getting the right sized frame.

Try as many bikes as you can and as Mungechick says, definitely take a cycling friend with you.

Other than the more girly colours, a women specific frame isn’t necessarily the right choice but a women’s saddle will be. – Factor in to replace this, even on a women’s bike.

Good luck with the search

Well done Mr S. 8)

Last mile or so of road to do now

Looks like late teens temps and the easterly wind continues.

Now on last major climb.

Big apologies to all on STW, I clean forgot to ask what tyres he is using.

Kenda Small Block from what I can read off my snaps 😀