ooh, looking at the XTR exploded view there is a Shimano part number of SM-CRM90 or Y1PV98030 for the spacers.
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M9000-3775A.pdf
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M8000-3849B.pdf

and here they are for sale, £10.99 for 4
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/shimano-xtr-fcm9000-gear-spacers-34t36t-only-y1pv98030/

Is it M8000? Did it include longer bolts?

All mine are XTR. Chainrings don’t include bolts, the (XTR) chainset had the bolts of the correct size included though.

Interestingly looking at si.shimano.com the XT ones don’t show spacers, and you don’t get a 36t option either. FWIW the XTR spacers are nicely colour coded so don’t look out of place, but you’d need to get a bit more spendy…

They don’t make a short cage XT its medium gs and long sgs. That might help with the search :)

What size is the chainring? All of my shimano ones (34 and 36) came with spacers in the pack. Also I’ve noticed Shimano chains don’t seem to have these issues.

That back pedal annoyance isn’t a real thing. I have three bikes with these and it’s just not an issue. I do run Shimano chains though and have noticed most of the complainers use third party ones.

Try realigning the calliper, it’s probably just not on straight. I had the same issue recently, removed and refitted straight and it’s sorted. You may have bashed it on something to knock it out of line. If it squeals the calliper is obviously squeezing so not broken.

Stainless will rust in this type of use on a bike. Look up crevasse corrosion, it’s a problem anywhere stainless is starved of oxygen. Better off with aluminium or ti for the bike.

@honourablegeorge it’s not hard, just plug it in when you get home each time. Modern batteries are ok with being topped up so no issues leaving it connected between uses. The charger cuts off when fully charged too. As for the water, if you can’t clean a whole bike with 4 litres in this washer you’re doing something really wrong. Did you put the nozzle on the end big bud? Without that I’d agree it’s hopeless but with it I’ve had no issues.

@spooky the word must has a very specific meaning in this context. The two rules we’re talking about cover both sides of the coin. One is a legal requirement not to open your door with oncoming vehicles and the other is just a rule (aka not a law) telling you to drive slowly and watch out for opening doors and kids between parked cars.
Obviously I knew we should be careful opening doors. The difference is knowing it’s illegal to do so, and that affects the blame.

I’ve had aluminium nips on my Kona since 1996 and they are fine. Make sure you/your wheel builder remember to grease the spokes before adding the nipple (should be done regardless of nipple type) which keeps the steel and alu separated. Keep the bike away from salty water that may act as an electrolyte and start galvanic corrosion. They won’t seize up if kept dry and if the metals are separated. If that’s not going to work for you then buy brass but still grease the spokes!

Yes I have the OC3 and it’s one of the best things I’ve bought. The battery lasts ages so you can refill over and over. If you’re smart you can wash the whole bike and your legs/face on one tank but refilling is easy and quick if you want to be more thorough. The spray pattern makes it very efficient for cleaning as it maximises pressure while keeping water use to a minimum.
The OC3 is also TINY compared to what you’d think. Go check one out in Halfords you’ll be amazed. The hose packs away neatly in the base too.
Yes it’s pricey, but I’ve yet to see a better solution that doesn’t compromise on one of the good things about this device. You can have a bigger water tank if you want a bigger and heavier device (I don’t) you can have more power with a shorter run time or bigger device.
Overall I’d recommend one. They also have an add on hose that can draw water from any source which is cool.

Thanks Jon that’s what I was after :) there’s also a rule about watching for parked cars opening doors but it’s not a must so this one takes priority

Yes Joe, hitting things is usually the fault of the person in charge of the vehicle unless the other party was doing something illegal. Hence my (non trolling) question. If a child runs out between parked cars it’s the drivers fault too as there’s an expectation that you’re driving safely and anticipating such issues.

Not wanting to start a big argument but I am curious how it’s the drivers fault. Assuming the car was parked and OP rode into his open door. To my mind that’s the cyclists fault for not leaving sufficient space regardless of whether the driver looked before opening his door (from a legal perspective, morally I’m with OP).
Obviously we all ride too close to parked cars to avoid the beeps from cars, but that won’t affect fault in the eyes of the law surely?

It’s possible I guess that you had it so badly set up that the mech was pushing on the cassette and making it sit at an angle, that would do it. Otherwise deffo not the mech, you can prove this by putting it in a middle sprocket then pedal backwards and change to a smaller one, all you get is noise and chain wear.

@hambl90 read back what you just wrote and have a think about how the b-screw might make the chain drop a sprocket while pedalling BACKWARDS. The mech comes after the sprockets so while a poorly set up mech might be noisy it can’t and won’t change the gear because the chain has already gone all the way around the sprocket and fallen off the other side by that point.

Tight and twisty fast singletrack like an XC race you mean? Sort your wheels out it’s not your forks.

I’m still confused over the draw of this event. Pay a bunch of money to ride the fire roads and a smaller section of trails than usual while it’s busier than ever. What’s the attraction, was there a particularly nice participation medal?

Just turn the adjuster until the amount of travel on the lever suits you

So…just like Shimano then… :roll:

If you fit a grown up chainring it’s much better :wink: . The whole point of the 40+ t rear sprocket is so you don’t have to run a baby chainring at the front, giving you better range at the faster end of the block. Try a 36t chainring and you’ll find the 40t is much more normal.

The rear mech does not and can not affect back pedalling. It’s not the mech. Mechs work by placing the chain somewhere BEFORE the cogs, when backpedaling they are AFTER the cogs.

Usually this is caused by stiff non Shimano chains, worn chains, or very dirty chains with no lube. Put a Shimano chain on and look after it and you’ll be fine assuming your cassette and chainset are in the right place. If your chainset is not on the proper line you’ll have issues, but that’s pretty forgiving generally.

FWIW I have one XT and two XTR setups all with 1×11 and XT 11-46t cassettes and none of them do this. All have XTR chains though.

@DickBarton heavier bikes aren’t heavier because they are stronger. They are heavier because they are crapper. Light bikes use exotic materials like carbon, and techniques like butting to reduce the required material while keeping the strength. The only place a “gravel bike” will have more material is the tyres, which will be wider so as to avoid punctures. It likely also has wider gaps for the wheels to allow for those tyres.
Doesn’t need to be heavier though, my XC bike is only about a pound heavier than my carbon road bike, and that’s strong enough for a fat lad to ride Afan :)

Looks like bscrew to me in this pics although the one that would make that obvious is too dark to say for certain. Also I’d say your cable outer is too short which will cause other shifting issues. 142 and 136 terminate at the same width so that’s not an issue. The difference is purely in where they measure to. Many bikes can swap the dropouts and the internal dimension is the same either way on the frame.

Right to roam isn’t the same as the right to dig trails though, so from that perspective it’s identical. You’re allowed to be there but technically digging is still vandalism, surely?
Regardless, it’s better to act nice and be responsible so that when we need to negotiate we actually have a leg to stand on.

Weird because it looks like people are trying to negotiate with the council for better consideration of mountain bikers and their needs while some of those people have actively shown themselves to be self entitled nobbers with no respect for others in a public forum. Obviously I’ve misunderstood the thread though!

It’s probably that either the mech or the frame is DM and the other isn’t. You need to either remove or add the link on the mech at a guess. Given that the b screw is pushing against something (assume the right thing) I’d say the frame is DM and the link needs removing. Does the dropout where the mech connects also have a flat for the b screw to push against?
It’s definitely not a mech capacity issue since OP said XTR cassette. They only go up to 40t and XTR GS supports 11-46 anyway.
It’s probably not b screw since OP said they followed the install instructions which implies there is the correct clearance in 40t sprocket and that other limit screws are also set correctly.

My point being the impression that gives of our community and it’s lack of respect for others. With that attitude I’m on the side of the guys with diggers and would expect to lose many more trails. Surrey hills had some trails flattened recently too and that does appear to be down to lack of respect for others.

I have no opinion on the trail in question as I’ve never been. I did want to comment though that posting pictures of mountain bikers on both sides of the barrier as well as leaning on the digger inside the no-go zone is NOT a great way to look like responsible members of the public! If you want to be taken seriously, and not be ejected from even more trails then try acting responsibly.
Sorry for the rant, but this kind of lack of respect really bothers me as I remember how hard we fought for access to trails in the first place.

Rims are cheap, I’d swap it out asap for peace of mind.

Buy another bike for when you’re on rock gardens. N+1 answers most maintenance issues…

I’ve been really happy with my Lezyne ones for the road bike. They last ages and are super bright and very well made. They also charge via USB which is a bonus for commuting duties, and one less charger at home (well, two less).
Off road I use Exposure lights, but these are a bit spendy for the road since most of their features aren’t necessary there.

look at DCRainmaker for more info than you’ll ever need on all of the mainstream units.

You may also want to look at GPSRumors to see whether replacement is imminent on the model you’re looking at. This can be a good indicator of what a “good price” is as older models get discounted just before replacement which looks like a bargain until you realise you have an old unit :)

Personally I like to have a map so use the Edge 810. I find that sometimes there really isn’t a substitute for seeing where I am relative to where I want to be. That said, I almost never use the map so a really low end Garmin would also suffice for most requirements. The Wahoo units are getting extremely good reviews not just for features but also for support, stability and updates. Polar also have a bike computer which is pretty good.

The end being frayed at the lever won’t cause the post speed to change unless it’s affecting the motion of the lever.
That said, replacing a cable costs about a pound and isn’t terribly difficult so I’d go ahead and do it just to avoid a bit of wire going into my thumb!

It’s medium cage (GS) for 1x 11-46. You can check this yourself on
Shimano Product Info rather than hoping the guesses here are correct :)

Once you have it, you’ll want to go to Shimano Manuals and follow the instructions to set it up. I’m not joking, this will save you time and energy even if you think you know what you’re doing! If you ask here you’ll get all sorts of witchcraft answers about b-screws as well as a bunch of people telling you Shimano mechs change down when you pedal backwards – they don’t if you set them up right!!

Strava records what happened. Stop moaning, get out there and do it properly in 4 minutes. All this talk of creating new segments is crazy, the race/segment is what it is, if you took five minutes you didn’t win – don’t make up your own new start line just to get a medal or you’ll turn Strava into school sports day where everyone wins their own special event!

I’m not surprised and would fully expect the cafe at Bryn Betws to go next. The bike shop always looked closed to me when I’ve been past so I never even went in there. The cafe (all of the cafes at Afan) sell none of the food I actually want to buy. How hard would it be to do a real full English or burgers?
I stayed at the BB campsite for two nights last weekend and their cafe was open for a total of about 5 minutes that’s I saw. I went to Tesco for breakfast, money that will leave Wales and give no local benefit. The showers were appalling too.
If you want to stay in business, you have to run it like you want customers!

Squorx nipples and the Squorx driver tool, they are an absolute pleasure to build compared to using a spoke key!

And that, kids, is why you shouldn’t smoke crack. Sqorx are the work of the devil and have twatty little washers that fall into your rim voids. They require a special tool rather than the completely standard screwdriver every other nipple needs!

i’ve found that you need to keep on going till the nipples creak as you tighten them.

You should never get that creaking. Lube the threads so that you can tension properly and they will never come undone. That creaking often means it’ll ping back later and lose tension (which is bad!). Same goes for sail rigging, always lube your threads if you need tension and control.

For what it’s worth the wheels here have been airbrushed rather than rotated. The rim logos are in identical places, and these are always aligned the same with regards to valves. Given where the DT Swiss logo is (at the bottom) I’d guess that the valves were aligned to tyre logos here and airbrushed out. I must say that the 3 logo rim is more upsetting to my OCD as that means something will always be amiss!

Try reading trail rats post again, that’s probably your answer. Hydraulics really aren’t that’s hard and I assume you’re not testing them when they are boiling on the trail so that means you configured them wrong or you have faulty brakes. Given the description, I’m going with you setting them up wrong, I recently had this issue and straightening the calliper fixed it completely after trying bleeding, pads, rotors. Lucky for me I had spares of all of those so it wasn’t an expensive lesson.
Align the calliper to the disk, not the frame and you’ll be fine. You don’t need to face the mounts, that’s what the dome washers are for.

Just be careful what tools you take, many of them will fail the “it’s a knife” test if the police find you…