Just to add to the Alfine debate, I’ve been riding mine since Sept and can confirm the following additional scientific facts

Useage
KM’s covered 1065.40
Hours Ridden 62 hrs 50 min 50 secs
Used 29 times

Maintenance schedule
Cleaned – Once (well hosed down the mud)
1 bottle green chain oil
1 X 9 speed jockey wheel (to replace damaged one, used a standard Shimano one, and seems to work fine)

Don’t really care what it rides like, weight distribution, spacing between gears blah, blah, blah – it’s the CASH savings I’ve been going for

So……still going strong

I’m not going any where near this thread now the MODS will be alerted :oops:

To convert, (Ghetto) you will need a rim strip (home made or shop bought) plus some tye sealant. 2 Stans rim strips would be about £20 each. For about the same money, you could buy a UST tyre (CRC have Nobby Nic’s £29.99).

Downside with conversions is that the tyre rolls off the rim a bit more easily, depending on your weight and riding style.

Upside with both – limited puncturablility, no pinch flats, better rolling resistance, lower pressures, more grip

Same old same old with Crank Bros stuff (IMHO), looks great – doesn’t last – stopped buying ages ago

Looks a bit more optical illusion to me – seems close but shot from the other side with a mound of foam blocks in the way

Still wouldn’t want to try it

Not sure why you wouldn’t go fully tubeless with a UST rim? It amounts to the same thing……

Specialist tools for both DT & Specialized hubs (both the same), rip off city if you ask me……………. :evil:

IMHO – the correct set up with vertical drop outs is to put the green locking doofers on both sides and then use a chain tensioner that you adjust independently – ie the wheel stays in place and tensioner is adjusted on a regular basis?

Pikes not sold any more – so not sure if you mean new or used Pikes?

If I use Google Chrome the whole site comes up in chainese text……

MK’s are designed for harder packed trails with some loose stuff, it’s going to be hard to find anything to grip on rough frozen ground if you hit it at speed – ran 2.4 MK’s in the Alps last year and had no problem with bendy side nobs (oooo er)

Think you’ve answered your own question there

uhhhhh……..nope!

Depends what you are after in the forest, can be hard going when it’s wet, sandy, muddy and flat (most of the time) and does require a bit of grunt, technical capability etc to stay moving. Other than that, it’s all pretty standard stuff. What I would say is that the NFDC website or Forestry Comm website has got the scummy fireroad routes that are the only authorised places to ride (although most cyclists ignore this) and that google maps / other online maps will show you other paths etc – if you have a GPS I would suggest this is probably the best method to navigate with as paper maps won’t show these paths. If you know where to look there is some other ST around, few and far between though.

Mines a large and I’m 5′ 11″

Plenty of Bridleways locally – get a map?

+1 for a day with Jedi – just search previous threads on this forum if you are in any doubt – that many people can’t be wrong!!!!

Ady – will be in touch, thanks for the replies guys!!

Buy one – will tackle anything you throw at it. I’ve got a 2010 with Pikes, put some ZTR flows on it and if I put a lower volume tyre then can razz most XC stuff and stay on the bike all day. Climbs fantastically well and I have one with an RP2 so can lock front and rear shocks which makes it even better climbing.

Took it to the alps last year as well – put a 200mm rotor on the back (comes with a 185 I think) and some Vanilla 36’s and it was equally as awesome – tackled some big drops (4/5ft) no problem, jumps well and handles well as BB is quite low.

I couldn’t recommened it enough and it’s my favoured ride in a stable of bikes

adsb – thanks for the responses, am looking at links next…..Quick question – is it a case of just explore with a map then? Any idea on permissions for riding off road etc?

Cheers

L

@ plumber – thanks for the response, got any more details? :?:

Come to me (New Forest) no snow and uninspiring riding – flat and sandy if you are interested

Sportstacks is what I be using[/url]

The guy in the 1st vid is riding a single speed / fixed thingy – it’s proabaly in the wrong gearing for rollers – as he pushes down with his right leg he veers off to the lefy – light gearing to get going would help him and he’s showing us one of the main reasons for riding rollers (to correct the imbalance) but it’s getting in the way of him even starting.

Hands on the top – look ahead, light, light spin to start with, it’s just the getting on and off that makes them difficult – so walls, doorways, sofa’s etc help with this.

Good luck

Nice……..”Moved to Innerleithen”, lucky boy!

I have a cyclops, takes a 26″ wheel and 700c – just turn the adjuster, simples

Old Orange 5 – for £200, PMSL

Were off to Bardonecchia at the end of Jan and then Cervinia at Easter :-)

Reading to Surrey Hills, simples

Pikes from me as well

@garylake – all including Skyline…..in a day????

Have a look at Pauls Cycles – bargain city

Paul Cycles Weblink[/url]

And no….I don’t work for them

Mine went back to 2Pure, an OK experience….bit on the slow side.

General servicing you can do, ie greasing / cleaning – They are gas filled so anything more than that needs to be done with specialist tools

Pro II’s – much more serviceable and relaible IMHO You won’t be racing on a your bike, so assuming you ride for pleasure 250g’s is a couple of energy bars and a tube

@ Finbar “You swapped a Cervelo for that? You must be on crack.”

Does that help you ride faster then?

The real issue for France skiing / boarding at the moment is the awful exchange rate for the Euro, making everything very expensive. We were paying £80 for lunch (simple stuff, pasta/beer/coke) at Val Thorens last year. For whatever reason Italian Alps are cheaper IMHO, just need to pick the right resort for your skill levels. 8O

I got to 27 lights, and lost the will to live just watching it……..full respect

I’ve been running an Alfine on a 456 for the last 6 months or so – intended to use it as a winter bike, off road and so far has been great. Don’t bother washing the bike, oil the chain a bit every now and again – that’s it.

Downside, it’s heavy hub – so whilst all the weight savings add up to the same most of the weight is centred on the hub. Weird to get used to but ok now I have. I Can’t flick the bike much, it’s not good on bunny hops, downhill it’s fine. There’s a big gap between the gears.

Plus side – I’m saving the price of a chain, cassette, jockey wheels, rear mech being ripped off, chain rings replacing – all of which I did the previous year, sometimes more than once at great cost!!!!

Anywhere they are not playing “dualling banjo’s”, squel little piggy, squel

mmmmmm…………..head down into the frozen wind – aero helment certainly needed now, but you could put something extra on it to make it more functional like a wooly hat?