Found a pic!

That San Andreas 2.0 looks very nice!! Who are the Mountain Cycle Dealers in the UK?

Shifters are at the right placement, just can’t get the height right as they interfere with brake resevoir. poo. Matchmakers may work?

Kev

You’ve Tech M4’s…. so I would say Matchmakers is exactly what you need. That is the reason I swapped to Matchmakers and I have never looked back since!

Lifer +1 – Matchmaker!

Google is your friend!

But if you are having trouble…..

Black forks…

Now with red decals to match the rest of the ‘bits’…

Are they u-turns? If yes, does it happen when they are wound down a bit?

Gutted!

DON’T DO IT!

Ahhhh…US trails! Can’t wait to get back there in September!

If I were you i’d buy another one. Only because the damage it ‘could’ cause by bodging it up and then only for your good work to be undone and wrap itself around my spokes and bending the mech hanger into oblivion!

A tenner for a 2nd hand mech….. I know my choice!

It climbs very well!

I do wind down to 110mm (which sticks the back end right up in the air!) for the seriously steep stuff & sometimes I’ll wind down to 120mm on the prolonged climbs, but not always.

If I could afford to change the forks though I would definitely be going for the 2011 Talas 32 FIT RLC (2 Position – 120mm & 150mm version) – giving me a bit more for the more serious downhill, but keeping the 120mm which I use most of the time when climbing (I could live without the 110mmm).

porter_jamie – Member

The nice man at 18bikes is trying to sell me a nice black heckler in large, and i have run out of reasons not to buy it. help.

NO! You know you want need it!

Fractionally lower – the seat matches the height to the top of the stem, but the rise of the bars puts the ‘grip’ level slightly above the seat height.

Some changes to mine since the last time…feels much better now! 90mm stem, no layback post anymore and set up with the Remote Joplin for the downhills which the Heckler loves!!

Me trying to catch Charlie Kelly down ‘The Repack’ – it never was going to happen was it!!!

Sorry to post on here – but would be interested in this too!

A higher frame rate will not eliminate camera shake It will make it look smoother/more lifelike (as there’s more images to fill in the gaps between each second) but that’s a different thing to camera shake.

I am aware of what a bit rate does and I was not saying that it would eliminate ‘camera shake’ – I was saying it would eliminate a ‘shaky picture’ and as I didn’t want to get get technical I thought this was the best description – the bottom line is, it will help smooth the OP’s footage which is exactly what he was asking.

It is assumed that the picture ‘shakiness’ is down to the mounting of the camera ‘only’ – this is not the case, hence my reply.

For a shaky picture adjust the settings to 720p – this setting has a higher Bit rate of 60fps rather than 30fps – this eliminates everything you are talking about.

It took me ages of trial and error, but now the footage is superb.

Incidentally it also improves, light transitions and subsequently this has a massive positive effect on the colours & clarity too!

PS: I use the bar mount and this is solid and gives a really good view of the riding (IMO).

And a lot of physios charge non-insured patients about half price.

To be honest I don’t care how much they charge me as an ‘insured’ patient as I don’t pay :wink: , the insurance does!

Also I get to choose using the ‘best’ physio I can find and no waiting list of 13 weeks, which it was after my accident. If I had waited that long the long term effects could have been much worse and most physios/doctors will tell you, the quicker you get it sorted the better!

I use Aviva Personal Health Insurance – spot on! I had a bad MTB accident in Sept 09 and have had physio for the best part of 18mths now and they have always paid, no questions!

Incidentally I also put my wife on the policy and she has had 3 operations on her shoulder, all done privately – again, no questions!

More importantly at absolutely no ‘additional/hidden’ cost to me – i.e. No excess etc.!

Highly recommended.

12.7mm

I use a a Camelback D.A.W.G rucksack and use the bladder compartment to transport a MacBook Pro (its the perfect size!)…

I think you’ll find in one way or another, just about everyone’s bike is ‘custom’!!??

I had a class 4 and it worked – but must say I did upgrade to a class 10 and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the recording (and if you buy HD you want to see the proper results!!)

I had same feeling on 50mm 0 Degree Rise stem and went to a 70mm 10 degree rise – job done! (for me anyway!)

On Crests you can use either – but most go for the 21mm.

I actually use a Top Swing/Dual pull (as does my mate with the Blur), like this….

LINK

I don’t use a Blur – but my mate does and I have ‘serviced’ his bike and that was what his was? And I also believe it is exactly the same as my Heckler which is also Top Pull/Top Swing (you should be able to tell by the cable routing??).

Usually – Top Swing/Top Pull.

8O

Mmmm….? Not sure about the 575, but the 591 does as I use that one with my Heckler.

Medium Frame – 70mm stem with layback post or 90mm stem with non layback – I’m 5′ 11″

RealMan – Member

You see a picture of a damaged tyre and immediately decide the tyre is rubbish.. Do you think there’s a tyre out there that’s never been damaged..?

I thought you meant that I had seriously considered Nobby Nics… but yeah you are probably right about making snap judgements – however, this isn’t the first bad thing I’ve heard about them today.

RealMan – Member

Seriously?

Yep…seriously. And?

Looks like a Nobby Nic? Great! That’s my next choice of tyre just gone out the window! What now!?!!?!

EDIT: Took to long typing!

Mt. Tamarancho – Marin, California
Downieville Downhill – West Sierra, California
Mr Toads Wild Ride – South Tahoe, California
Mammouth Mountain – California
Laguna Niguel – LA, California
San Juan – LA, California
Santa Cruz – California

coogan – Member

I’d go 2.25 which if I remember right are similar in sized to the Minions. Mind you, I’d keep the Minions, Nobby Nics were the worst tyre I ever used.

I got to try them! The Minions are just heavy, slow and only ‘ok’ for grip. I have tried Maxxis Advantage, Maxxis Minion’s, Maxxis High Roller which were ok on the SC VP Free, but on my now more AM bike the dual ply would be too heavy and the single ply ones just look/feel ‘flimsey’), WTB Prowler & Hutchinson Toro.

So not exactly just tried one and now it is starting to get expensive!

peteimpreza – Member

The forks are Pike Coil U-Turns

Close….mine are Pike 454 Dual Air U-Turn (yours went on my mates bike!)

Frame/Fork clearance not an issue – I have 2.35 Minions on there at the moment (which I hate and am selling!).

Thanks for info on sizing – appreciated!