Hi Glen,

Yes, sorry about the vague description, I’m the victim of infant torture atm.

It’s for a BB chainstay pivot eyelett, solid billet 8mm thick on each ‘arm’ that leads to the bearing and pivot itself. The eyelet itself is undamaged, the deformation (prob a 1 to 2mm max) is in the arm leading up to the eyelet and has effectively reduced the width of the dimension that the BB pivot bearing and bush require. That said, it fits together and seems to be fine.

I’m just a tad concerned as it’s on the frame I was hoping to buid up for wifey…saying that, the insurance payout would pay for loads of yummy bike bits….insert *go straight to hell smiley*

I had the same proble while lowering the ratios on my sons bike. My LBS (james) had bot the cassette and changed it over for free. They order them from Madison(sp?)

I don’t know what’s the more serious a crime! The ‘cesar’ dog, the ill-effectively located front light mount or the ‘lasso’?

:P :wink:

Then again, who am I to take the mic? I never get out on my bike….same old same old………………………………………..

ey up oldgit,

have you donated these to the mods, or are you selling/giving them away?

I’ll have em if not…make night lights for my lads bikes :wink: After some Troutie-esque conversion jiggery-pokery :)

While I have the attention of the world, I’d like to thank Troutie for all his help last winter, and the others who contributed to ‘the’ DIY thread….coz it’s improved my knowledge and soldering skills…the information, I believe, helped a great many.

Come the revolution, I’ll be standing behind Troutie 8O

Sunday would be So much better, childcare issues on Sat’s…sadly.

Let me know how you get on over the next couple of days/rides, my number is up there.

Ah you see my point re physio?

Anna, you didn’t mention the shoulder aspect…this will change asst because we would have to determine if your previous injury is affecting/producing your present condition.

This is exactly why forum answers from ‘experts’ are gen flawed.

That said, I’m very good at toasting LED drivers 8O

It’s that time of year again…wooohoooooooo :P

NJA, nice one, could be just that…depending on the dermatomal/myotomal pattern…but I’m not convinced unless there’s spacial compromise with the carpul tunnel?

What do you think?

EDIT:

Also would depend as to the severity of the symptom and indeed if there was associated muscle weakness…we don’t know these things yet.

Probably a curse (for me) but if I can slip the child-care monster’s grasp, I’m in :twisted: This would be my 4th attempt to join in with you guys and so I successful, I may have to bake 8O

From a physio POV I would put money on postural related, typically cervical spine or traps related.

saying that, i doubt if you’ll find a soln via the treads (unless very lucky).

you need an experienced physio to have a look, note that I didn’t suggest a bike fitting service. Anyone with gripe about that comment is free to call me on 07719664553 where I’ll provide evidence of their collective inaccuracies.

Good luck with it btw, I hope it resolves.

Oh, couple of q’s

1. How long b4 the symptoms establish, when riding HT?
2. How long does it take to ease/go?
3. Any other positions bring this on (not cycling)?

FYI i used a £10 cheapy set to bleed my formula the ones after replacing the entire hose. Hijack: I can’t understand the ‘hype’ surrounding replacing formula hoses and bleeding them. I knocked up a very simple jig out bit of scrap wood, fixed it ‘in situ’ to my bench and well that’s it.

I even had to take off the bite because they were too strong.

So yes, they work fine :roll: :P

CBA to read the entire thread, but I’ve often seen roadies and climbers not wearing lids?????????????

transporter13 thanks for that, but mine are black too :(

cheers for the offer btw.

Ron hills, nowt wrong with em…saying that they have to be losing their colour and to have shrunk a little in order to maximise the ”half-way up one’s calf” look.

Sing of real man, no grooming products either :D

BTW I virtually ‘live’ in my Hummmvees….best ‘kash’ shorts I’ve had for a while……very good for climbing in too :wink:

Forgive the thread resurrection.

The middleburn (ebay) option at £16 is a tad steep, yet I love the ‘priddy colours’…so can anyone point me to a cheap(er)supplier that offers colours at 12mm.

I admit it’s totally pointless, but I don’t get out on my bike much…ergo I p1ss about with it :roll:

Here’s an experiment for the naysayers :P

Go out on a road bike (the riding style and power delivery differ vastly when climbing, even tho they both have two wheels) and cycle 120+ miles at 60-70% race pace (not stops, just re-fuel and go) in your baggies, camelbak and flappy gore-tex.

Repeat wearing lycra, jersey….not forgetting the embrocation 8O

I’ll put money on the ‘ensemble of choice’ 8)

….the following scene rates as one of best…I’m always using it in home/shed protection threads…

Just imagine the Burberry threads hanging in the air after another thwarted attempt on your shed lock :twisted:

aracer has a good point, it’s not and impact or stress fracture. If it were me, and the LBS/manufacturer OK’d it, I’d layer up the hole with resin ‘micro’ wet-n-dry the surface and finish off with a carbon cable rub (the irony) patch.

It doesn’t seem to be in an area prone to failure, like other carbon phots we’ve all seen…there are professional carbon repair folks that I’m sure could sort it

http://www.carboncyclerepairs.co.uk/index.html

Trimex,

Yes to all of those :D

Now all that remains is the funds :(

Loads of input, I have zero knowledge (about a great deal it would seem these days) about dropping seat posts…bit concerned about the limited life-span(s)…considering price.

what would guys/gal say would be the best bang for buck?

Cheers.

PS: My tubes are fine now :D

Oh shoot, I hadn’t thought of that…I really am quite pants at this mtb maintenance thing. You know, it could be related to that because yes there’s signs of wear of the cassette but surely the life-span should exceed 500 to 800 ish miles?

The hubs are only XT and are now in their 6th year…however I have had them serviced, surely broken pawls would be picked up by the techie?

It seems everything needs replacing all atm :cry:

Just wish I could bung a good wheel in to check before spending more cash one bits I might/might not need.

Frustrating.

Forgive me for bleating on about what is, possibly, the most basic of issues.

After checking all possible causes, including the chain ring nuts, I found nothing. So, after googling it would appear that the most likely cause is drive train.

So, convinced I’d find nothing I looked at the rear cassette. Bearing in mind it’s seen no more than 10 rides (20-25mile ave, xtr ti)and stone me if it’s looking worn?? Ironically, it’s the smaller alloy cogs as opposed to the Ti larger ones than are used the most.

That seem a utter pants, longevity wise? So, XT or Sram replacement?

Drive train is xt.

Cheers.

I sort of thought so, but I’m grabbing at straws tbh? I guess it looks so thin and skinny next to the new machines… :P

Mate, that is SCREEMING SUGRU for internal custom molded absorption mounts…get with it man :wink:

Has to be my Scott AFD Pro. I discovered a whole new world of fun and friends, had ‘better’ bikes since but nothing compares to you….I mean it :roll:

Coincidentally, I was out with the lads over at Shining Cliff Woods today for a trip down memory lane (used to run there lots). Was looking for a site to sleep out (under the stars sketch, dad’s will understand) when we found a site where clearly someone had been building fallen tree bivis. So, they were either the team who’ve been ‘creative’ (don’t remember those burms and ‘paths’ a few years ago) or some strange army wanabe (or other of similar genre) lurking in the bushes.

My point being, they’d probably ‘get off’ by acting up as YOU ride by. Me, I never ride without Fairbairn-Sykes….you simply never know.

…just reporting back, the guy did an awesome job. Exactly to spec and finished really well.

Top geezer, patience in extremis with me going on hols without letting him know….bad form I agree.

Will defo be using his machining skills again.

Phew!

I’m still really interested in bearing/bushing (pullers/pushers). The design I was impressed with was made by Transition Bikes, so simple.
I’ll post up photos and dimensions soon, or email them to you…..if I post them up then the world can follow the design and drool over the ‘fin’ products.

Frustratingly, RM decided to use 3 different bearing sizes on their 05 bike, then there’s the Fox bushes to push in/out!
All in all, a rather expensive ‘pulling fest’ indeed!

I have just replaced the entire ‘ensemble’ of bushing and bearings on my 05 RM slayer and I was shocked at the state of the internal bearings and the seat/chain stay bearings.

TBH i hadn’t expected too much wear as I’ve not ridden it ‘that’ much…however I do hammer it when given a ‘green card’.
Anyways, bit of a creek but blow me the inner BB bearing were powder ffs…I’m not jesting! All other ‘hidden’ bearings had suffered similar failings such as seals bending/deforming (not sure how and why).
I would replace the lot, if it were me.

Be prepared for a shock (ho ho) and more expense (bearing pushers/pullers/drifters)than you originally expected.

Good luck with it, see you on the other side :P

I’m loving the wooden frame action, bit heavy but way way up on the cool stakes…for me anyway.

Having extensive experience with rock climbing bolts I would go for resin anchors (Petzl)…greater versatility.

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/rock-anchors-0/batinox

‘Wear’ was this ‘Thread’ (please stop) a couple of weeks ago? I’ve just experienced protracted headaches swapping my RM rear sus bushes and bearings.

Would defo place an order, would need 3 different sizes….actually just two as the BB pivot requires internal to external impact….nightmare without the correct tool.

Ian shame you don’t embrace the additional culture aspect. I really love live electro violin…then again, I do appreciate the classics :P

You’ll grow into it……running away now :D

Thanks for that xiphon, will try him.

tuckerUK, i hear you..but tried it and the ones I visited wit frame and parts found the whole thing …well..amusing….’a push bike’?

Say no more.

Umm, I’m missing the Moors big time :evil:

Chain link, and spare chain link.
Pump
Tubeless repair kit (never needed it….get that one in quick)
TopPeak mini wrench + mini chain splitter
Couple of plasti-ties
leatherdaddyman (used it a few times on other folks bikes)

Gels, cash, alpen bars (coconut),

Cynic-al, forgive them, for they know not what they do

tis a sad image indeed…..a moment of silence if you will.

Not read the entire post, but from a personal perspective:

It all depends upon the terrain and how you are using the road bike and your training regime.

As an incredibly simple rule of thumb (not an absolute) the following might help….

Cadence

If you only train high cadence with easy gears (prob more specific to turbo sessions than roads due to controlled environment…..unless you live in Milton Keynes) then no, your mtbing will not see massive improvements from a hill-climbing/power point of view. You will, however lose weight and improve your conditioning + your bodies memory to ‘feel’ what’s high which is very important when you introduce…….

Power

There are volumes on ‘the best’ way to train this but essentially, is the ability to turn a high resistance over a prolonged time and cadence does fit into it; you choose how to define these parameters. Clearly, too much power training will knock off your cadence (high cadence does save energy/the legs for the run phase of triathlons….but there’s lots to say on this).

When trained correctly, which I am not atm, high cadence and power training will take your MTBing into a new dimension + when you get back on the MTB those extra gears will feel like you are cheating ?

CAVEAT

The above is neither definitive, nor exhaustive. It is intended to shed some light on how to bring road biking into MTBing. I will say this, it doesn’t happen over-night and takes a HUGE amount of regular effort.