Be very surprised if it's serious pathology, keep us informed… I'm putting money on thoracic (perhaps refering in) or sternocostal …assuming there's no Frac or ecg issues??

Be very intereted to here how it all goes for you :)

Ex tri-plod here: and I thought I looked a proper numpty when my pre-clipped shoe hit the floor (days befor lazzy band trickery) right as I was leaping on …thus smashing my nuggets into the saddle?

What are they all on (or not)? Either the water was v++cold or they were all on the piss tnb4.

Still laughing at the dufus riding off trailing the shoe, then there's the one getting zapped by the none cycling ability aliens and simply falling to the floor…

Are you sure it wasn't as spoof??

An outstanding clip-tastic experience…again, again :)

If the good lady can handle the twins, I'm in…I'll bring cake to this one as well…the wifey got somethin going atm with chocolate swirl sponges with loads of raspberry jam. It's sapping my will to…get off the sofa :)

…I am bringing home made chocolate swirl sponge cake, to get us all in the right mood :P

I have a 'Green Card' for Sunday :), would be blasting (well chugging in the 2nd car…''don't you know'') up from Chesterfield….anyone this way welcome to jump in.

Ecover, hand wash all my gear…or clean off in shower…I have found that if one leaves it 'in the was basket' the harder/decrease chance you'll get the shite out of it. Ergo, wash it straight away.

Hope this helps, never use strong powders/tablets from the 'big names' huge amount of bleech content that **** the lycra after a time.

As should be the case with anyone found guilty of supporting such 'tat', 'Makki-D's'(as the prols like to call it) KFC etc.

Shot at dawn.

A moot point; looking after your gear, such as using correct soap to clean it rather than throwing it in with the family wash. Most washing tabs/liquid etc contains bleech in one form or another, this will degrade cycling gear quickly causing premature wear.

Obvious and common, but I know many who can't be arsed to hand wash!

Like I said, moot point.

Thnx for the link, I too found that one….MTB, sorry for missing that bit out. I've googled/looked at the main online dealers…only carbon versions I could find were SantaC specific.

If your after quality that'll last for yonks, then there's only one brand…Assos.
When you return from the Cardiac unit (have you clocked their prices yet?) have faith that the quality of their gear really is ahead of everything else…I mean once you've tasted Assos, there's no going back – I choose mine, over the wife every time 8O

Ensure you get the right size & type of garment. I have a pair of their windbloc winter bib tights that don’t see much action at all because they’re TOO GOOD?? I mean even on a snowy, icey Peak night ride I was toasty.

I’m boring myself now, hope this helps a little?

Hey Rhino,

Get back with a report (steer me to one) on performance, I used Tubs on my road bike (race) and would never go back to the clincher pain/faff.

PS: leave a strip of rim opposite the valve glue free (speeds up removal when racing)

…my climbing ability massively improved after training on the road bike+turbo(has to be the bollocks trainer to be effective and replicate undulating ride…Tacx Flow etc)during my Tri obsession phase (don't have much time for either these days… :( )

Get a cheap winter hack road bike, find some killer hills..give it 6months or so and you'll get back on the MTB (or mix it if you wish) and you'll feel like a 'Cheat' with all those 'extra' gears :)

PS: You have to be quite nasty to yourself on the turbo for the training to cross-over into real-time cycling…some may not agree but its what I've experienced.

Yes, we have our share of similar c-nts up in the Shire. Typically of the 'Garage Owner' type…ghastly….was having the exact same conversation with fellow mtber only yesterday.

If it has an engine then it shouldn't be there…I don't accept the by-road/law thing as the situation has changed to the almost extreme.

On a safety issue,

Was returning to car prk from Stanage High Neb end with my lads (5yrs) couple of weeks back when we all had to stand aside AGAIN for yet another group of 'Off Roaders' (Off-enders if you ask me…)to pass us by. As the lead 'wreck' passed us a large stone shot out across from under the tyre and into the trees….approximately 2 metres away. Could have been an A&E visit for someone.

Don't get me started on the groups of Moto-crossers!! And I used to be a biker!!

Can’t they just stick to designated circuits? I mean the levels of horsepower they’re blasting is simply too much for these old Pit-pony trails.

obviously there are the racing snakes out there but they seem few and far between

There's your answer, they're too busy riding to be on here!

Quod Erat Demonstrandum

I see you.

I suffered the exact same issue (nearly slung them) until I discovered the joy of KY jelly!

As others have said, it’s ALL about ‘seating that bead’ (walk away from the metaphor).

I’m currently running the same tyre combo and I’m not shy with the Peaks rock gardens either…no problems at all since adopting following method..
1. Ensure the rims bead is clean from crap/stans etc
2. Run a little KY with finger tips round tyres bead
3. Add a couple of caps worth of Stans for taste
4. Lift wheel from floor, blast up to 50psi with track pump
5. Spin, angle, spin
6. Leave for ‘a while’?? (I usually go for overnight)
7. Deflate to working psi

Like I said, exact same happened to me…I actually dinked my front rim a little ….bit of a pisser but they’re tops now and yep, ZERO pinch flats or thorns hereon in….a new day, a new dawn brother :)

One thing I’ve noticed is that tubeless tyres indeed deform differently than tube types. Insomuch as they don’t share the same psi to deformity ratio…clear as mud that :) That is to say if your rear ‘tubed’ set is running at 20, then (for my set up anyway, can’t speak for other tyres) I’m put 30 in the tubeless set due to their apparently lower ‘squish’ co-efficient…I’ll leave it there before I receive a kicking.

Stick with it, if your in the Sheffield area then I’ll help if you wish?

Love my 819's…

…I'm not sure which hubs I'd go for if I were looking. I'm running XT atm and they've been fine (just serviced them and they're smooth as) but I wish I'd gone for something more…..je ne sais qua?

:), yeah…my fingers hurt

Brills, now I can don my Oakleys for night rides :)

Helmet mount, Mr Nutt might have a point! If could forge/mould a curved 'array' for the bulb housing??

I'm so going to buy a set of your lights Trout.

and there I was thinking I was king of the pointless posts! Wow, you are truly awesome :o

Hubble Deep Field Experiment – answers it all really, end of global debate on what's a pre-scientific story book.

Forgive me all, I'm totally fudged (re-writting an essay), my last reply was poor.

Essentially, you'll get away with very small cold adjustments (couple of mm). However, and depending on the 'speed/rate' of the original bend, the alloy grain field's integrity ( 'like' tectonic plates of the earth)will affected.
Thus, if you cold bend it back without heat treating the grain fields (think of this as healing a cut on your hand, for example)then more damage occurs (granted, this might only be initially small). This is where the risk sets in, if you DO NOT have dropouts that can be unbolted and replaced, once the area is weakened then it takes less force to bend it again and thus the cycle repeats until failure.

My Scott road bike had dropouts welded to the frame, I bent the rear mech hanger and could not risk weakening it as the frame would have been useless…or would have to have been sent out for a repair…prob costing more that it's worth.

I hope this helps to explain things a little better, please forgive my initial 'brash' response guys/gals :) I'm so mentally scrambled :)

LT

Nope Toys, your talking to an Engineering Physicist and you do have to use heat to prevent fatique related cracking … especially with alloy! I may have used a pants link via WPed to put my point across.

Granted, you get away with small 'fettles' but anything gross and you'll be compromising the integrity. You have to clean the paint off, heat the alloy until it goes just off colour sort of darkish…then allow it to cool on it's own. Reshape/bend then repeat the process.

It's actually very very easy with isolated sections of alloy such as drop outs.

:)

Based upon what I've experienced, reading/asking similar questions, it goes something like this – half the brand new price, take a 'bit' off for each year + a soupcon for damage (cosmetics only btw) and you'll be about there :)

Hey Trout, don't break your back for me old boy :) It was kind enough that you made the offer in the first place. I'll prob not get out as much as I'd like tbh.

Couple of cheapy Cree's for my lid, combined with my lumi HID, will do for now, if you think they'll do the job?

Cheers

Blimey Trout, you've just reinstalled my faith in humanity! I'll email you with address.

If you ever need Physio, call me before paying… :)

Rutland hi-jack…ordered my gore oxy jacket Sat gone, not jacket no email ……

then I found the Rutland customer care rant thread…typical :roll:

Never ever had a problem with CRC or Wiggle…ever!

Thanks for that trout; once again you've helped me with your knowledge :)
As per our emails I'm on a bit of a budget atm, hence sticking with HID for now but keen to purchase helmet lamp for cheap as a temp measure until I'm working again.

GWT posted up a couple of links for me, for which I'm thankful but your the light-god….any suggestions??

Cheers Trout

LT

Quality.

Pedalhead,

These'll be fine, the yellow ones (cleats) 'float' (give you a bit of flexibility with foot orientation) red ones are fixed.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-Ultegra-PD-670-SPD-SL-Pedals-NEW-BOXED-/130415422218?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e5d5d6b0a

doh, of course it does :) Yeah, I would agree that there is a huge aspect of folk who conform to this (I guess, if I purchased it…I'd be one of them coz I aint very good) however, on sunday a buddie of mine missed out on euro qualification by 7 seconds (triathlon age grouper)…he rides a road bike with clip-on tri bars.

I would expect more that a 7 second saving with this baby, if the position was correct etc etc etc.

:)

EDIT: Saying that, if he removed his wetsuit a bit faster?????

It is 'sobering' to discover that you'll be pushed to give away your 'old' 3k+ machine 8O

The main diff is the manner/mechanism in which they 'clip' in…unlike the 'SPuDs' & Egg beaters they utilise (generally) a larger platform and a 3 point location system…usually in a triangular config….ski binding in 'feel' (cross country skis, not down hill).

That was a poor explaination, sorry :)

Laughing, I don't live in Surrey Ap but it's a fab Tri bike I'd be going for if I could spare the funds.

What does ATGNI mean btw??

You have to Anneal http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29 the alloy before and after bending back. It might look straight after you've 'thugged' it back, but it aint gonna be strong. Easy to do with the correct blow torch (very fine, not that expensive from most DIY stores)….you'll loose paint though.

I did this on a Scott road frame that didn't have drop outs.

Love Sir velo, gonna save for an S2/3 when/if I get a job next year.

HOWEVER, those wheels ruin the aesthetic for me…sorry but I simply don't go for what is essentially an average quality rim with a spoiler on it.

If your gonna do those whees, they simply HAVE to be carbon tubs…darling.

You've been Gok'd

:)

http://www.rolfprima.com/products-carbonTdF38.php

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Zipp_303_Tubular_Rear_Road_Bike_Wheel/5360046069/

Love Sir velo, gonna save for an S2/3 when/if I get a job next year.

HOWEVER, those wheels ruin the aesthetic for me…sorry but I simply don't go for what is essentially an average quality rim with a spoiler on it.

If your gonna do those whees, they simply HAVE to be carbon tubs…darling.

You've been Gok'd

:)

http://www.rolfprima.com/products-carbonTdF38.php

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Zipp_303_Tubular_Rear_Road_Bike_Wheel/5360046069/

I think it's so funny because of the abuse/revenge angle. The washing machine, symbolic of all parental torture…holding us to ransom, violently adopting a human 'clonic' fit of death; it’s final moments sullied by spewing it’s guts out.

Hence, we have our revenge :)

…demonic laughter diminishes

Is that the new Trout then, I'm a total newbie to the entire LED revolution…still running my Lumicycle HID (used it about 10 times only since new, 2006)

What's the damage for that mother then?

It'll be ok, so long as the voltage remains as constant as possible (which is contradiction TBH) ensure the voltage doen't exceed the charger's limit or it'll eventually toast it/reduce the life span.

Ooow, I wouldn't recommend front crawl (freestyle)until zero pain through full range was achieved with Breaststroke. I assume each grading has been explained to you? The trick with this type of injury, as far as I am concerned, is to focus on regaining stability and range of movement before excessive loading…kind of makes sense if you reverse think what would happen if you over-load an unstable/weak joint :) Although not as crucial as say and ankle, wrist or GHJ there will be a degree of proprioceptive feedback from this joint that must be retrained/addressed…all ingredients come together to produce a functional joint/mechanical system. It's easy to become focussed upon just one aspect.
Feel free to email me and I'll do my best to help, bare in mind have have two 5yr old lads so replies might not be instantaneous :)

I'm only a 3rd year student, but sports wise I've pretty much ticked the entire range of sports and thus sustained many injuries along the way.

My pain is your recovery :)

I'm boring myself now, so I'm off