Back to two wheels.

I have a penchant for glittery things (no, calm down C337), in a hub,skewer, headset, brake anodising kind of way. Frames really don’t ‘float my boat’ it’s the ‘livery for me’ :wink:

Oh, nice rear fender…always a welcome sight early in the morning 8O :mrgreen:

chvck,

Exactly my point, which clearly you’ve failed to grasp…you’ll be telling me Jordan has sex appeal next!

C337
We need to talk!
There are toys in my sons’ cupboard possessing greater neural activity than Cheryl Droll! I’d go so far as to say I’d prefer an ‘evening in’ with David Cameron than spend a night with her…honestly 8O

Guys, I give you a gentleman’s totty….

Stephanie Valentin

And you should see her brushwork

here

&

here

I have an extensive reading list for you C337, when you’re ready :P :lol:

Thanks troutie, why didn’t I think of that…just buy a cable from LC :roll:

Hey, ‘Double-Combo’ is impressive, yet, it has nothing on your ‘reverse with camphone skills’!

I was on the edge of my seat, waiting for the ‘You’ve been Framed’ bit :lol:

Ey up, (I’m taking an ‘Up North’ cse)

Forgive me bumping again, but still need a steer re- Lumi polarity. As the battery is centre negative….actually I’ll redress the question. Can I assume that the socket I intend to use from the unit to the board will come with a split down diagram and thus I’ll know which wire will be negative when I stick the battery male end into it? Then, surely, it’ll be a simple case of soldering the appropriate polarities correctly?

Cheers guys.

Sorry Didzy, I should have read the entire thread… :roll:

I use a track pump on my Ingnitor LUST & Conti MK all the time; I changed the valves to long ones only 3 hours ago and………up they went.

I’ve never ever had an inflation issue?? The only time it didn’t go straignt up (ooower missus) was when I forgot to lift the wheel from the floor; this breaks the seal as does holding the tyre.

I rub ky, or stans round the bead before whacking in the air; works every time and did today.

I’m using 819 rims.

I don’t have time to read the entire thread.

Feel free to email, I’ll give you my mobile if ur really stuck mi old :)

Luminous & Trout,

Agreed; will keep with original (simple) set up…so easy to drift onto the ‘conceptualisation’ track :P

I maintain, however, that an illuminated switch for opposing thumb operation would have been the Dogs :mrgreen:

Thanks guys,,,

Smudge, could I not circumnavigate the inverse polarity simply by soldering the power lead from the battery poss to neg, and visa versa??

ASIDE

I don’t want to hijack this tread, but I found this and thought you’d all appreciate it… I really must post up picks of my 1st dual lamps..

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2006/12/how_to_make_the_ultimate_1.html

Oh, just one more thing.

A big thanks from me to all the folks on this thread for being good-eggs & sharing the LED love :lol:

Free floor space and chocolate swirl cake if ur ever up the Peak way.

LT

PS: If you can handle the twins that is? 8O

Hi Luminous,

Forgive my late reply; I don’t yet fully understand the wranglings of the LED world, so pls explain the Tasked driver thing?

Also, I don’t have much room (I renovating trouts micro..see this thread http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/calling-troutie ) inside the box for extra drivers and stuff.

The BCT driver is about half the size of the one shown in Trouts’ picures of the unit.

How much would your solution set me back, and would you explain it via diagram pls.

Thanks for your help.

Oh, before I go….do you happen to know if the Lumicycle HID Li-ion packs are fitted with a centre-neutral jack…I’m almost certain they are?

PS: Thanks BCT (if ur reading this) for ur wiring diagram..very clear thx.

Rangeroy, brilliant bed-time reading :) LMAO

+1 for climb, BEAST!

Never ridden down it 8O

We need more info;

how many times per week do you train?
What does your food intake consist of…truth pls?

Any 24hr patterns re pain, headaches, pins needles, loss of sensation, night pain (that awakens you).

Meds, what u taking, any other ‘supplements’ ur not telling us about.

Any Low back pain, knumbness, have you changed seating at work, physical job or desk type work.

feel free to email me, or go straight to by-pass your GP and get checked over.

Email me if you like.

IM UK with p1ss poor prep = crap time, hip dysfunction that I can’t sort out…not to mention spending £k’s of shite I really didn’t need :oops: :roll: :? = ++ stupid

Not bashing you don simon, indeed all fair points but you simply can’t compete with experience. Also, and this is only my opinion; I’ve never aligned my road cleats first go, would be much easier with a second pair of hands to tweak up the (usually only one) exposed cleat screw that never holds straight the cleat when you click out (aka alone on the turbo for example)…never ever… no matter how accurate you think you’ve done it, or slacked off the peddal spring.

Have fun :wink:

erm oponetns opponents :roll:

Good move, best way to develope jaw-dropping raw power that none of your weak oponents can match….

…. did I say that out-loud, or just imagine that I did?

Best to get a ‘good’ bike fit. That does not mean to say you must use the currently trendy (in the tri world) of computer-software driven bike fit companies…

(I’ve been snooping on their youtube site and believe me some of their statements regarding joint orientation a utter sh1te)

Go to your local bike shop, or a good one close by, DURING THE WEEK, at 10am armed with Jaffa Cakes and a jar of coffee. Then find the oldest guy there and the youngest guy who’s racing; they will between them sort you out.

Go for a smaller frame (1 or 2 cm) and build out, too large and your screwed :)

What…is this site/thread turning into..??????????????

*runs away ‘well-rapid’ back to the DIY light thread*

Thanks Luminous,

The ‘fried’ driver that came with troutie little fickir (mini unit) had obvious switch terminals…which I kind of wish I’d gone for now. That said, the BCT driver is half the size!

From BCT wiring sketch I can have a switch(3way)with restistor on the low circuit loop, or a 2way that gives on/of without a dim option.

Cell lines go direct to terminals on the board.

Cheers.

Essentially, I’d like to have an illuminated switch on my index finger to activate using my thumb…..because I’m a geek before you ask :lol:

Potentially a daft question, but looking at some of the switch ratings I notice 220-240 volts. Do I take it that they can handle up to 240, but would alow anything up to that to pass through…they are not fitted with bandwidth type resistors are they??

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rocker-Switches/SPST-Illuminated-snap-in-rocker-switches/75721

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rocker-Switches/SPST-Snap-in-rocker-switches-with-indicators/75722

I take it the switch takes power from the connection to illuminate?

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rocker-Switches/SPST-Rectangular-push-fit-rocker-switch-with-red-LED-25A/74535

Thanks guys, will re-think it all :)

…got my driver today, thanks BCT.

I’ve opted for the 3way switch route; I’d like to ‘fashion’ a thumb operated back-lit switch mounted ergonomically in Sugru (Trouties idea).

Does such a switch exist that would give on off dim (resistor in series on this line)…don’t want a toggle version, I think the lupine lamps have this type of button switch?

On that note, have you guys seen the new Lupine PIKO? Nice unit.

Oh, can anyone confirm if the Lumicycle HID Li-on battery pack jack is centre neutral…I’m sure it is but just wanted to confirm.

Cheers.

What on Earth is the point to this thread :?:

…mopes off all deflated, dragging feet…..

Children all day….have a good one :)

Hey TrailerTrash,

Was the etx made from Easton, or their own (shite IMO) tubing? I did look at the etx but thought the rear-sus linkage looked potentially weak??
The finish on mine is (well, was) very good and it’s standing up to my hammering it very well, the rather standard looking stays are a simple ergo stronger set-up to the etx…well I thought so.

I have no idea what bike I’d buy next, MTB design, geekism and price have launched into hyper space! Yet, I find it aint the bike slowing most folk down…up or down…hey…yes…your’ll thinking it :wink:

Night all, :mrgreen:

That bracket looks heaps better than the Lumicycle job sent with my hid lamp (sure they must have upgraded that by now?)

Whe-Hey, no mention of my RM Slayer :roll:

I’ll translate that to mean …’it’s awesome’ :lol:

Hi all, I’ve posted this question at the end of the Lumi to LED thread, not sure if it was the right place,Sooooooooooooo…..

with two 20mm triple optics, are you connecting the 2x3LEDs together in series, SP or just parallel? Does it actually make a difference considering the ‘Solid State’ nature of the technology?

Cheers

Not sure if this required a new post, so forgive me for bumping this one.

I was reading through another light thread on MTBR regarding a guys light housing project getting back off the ground…looked good TBH…3 LED optic was suggested.

So, with two arrays (he had a unit with x2 20mm holes) of 3 XPE LEDs would they be connected in paralles, series or a combination or just series??

Oh, I said I’d do the peak pootle but the thought of new trails….ummmmm, might have to ditch the peak…the exact thing happened last time I recall.

EDIT: Just had a look at the drive, anyone got space on their floot to doss to save me having to scream up morning of the ride?

I’ll bring cake, promise (home made and all)

:mrgreen:

Missed the last one, hope to make this one… :wink:

Ah, I see TJ,

Thanks for the candlepower suggestion on the other thread… I’m just trying to fully understand this LED phenomenon.

I too have been trawling the threads, the info is there, but spread wide and difficult to pull together.

Regarding ‘setting’ ‘clocking’ the driver to run x array of LED’s, do the drivers actually have a setting dial on the board?

Thx

Thanks,

I’ll chase that forum.

I can’t even deduce how the thing works…have to agree/comment that indeed, it looks like a sex toy !

Finally, the minimalist retaliatory salvo….. I’m riding out tonight with nothing more than a durex for back-up 8O I’ll drink my own….sweat to survive.

Can you tell I’ve not been able to cycle today?

Call me a dufus, but what does spamming mean in this context please :idea:

MisterCrud,

I have to say that your original rear (two bolt) guard was great but I fudged it DIYing.

I wanted to mount it just below the seatclamp, allowing seatpost adjustment that obviously goes out the window if you bolt straight to the seatpost.

Can you confirm that all rear ‘one bolt’ raceguards in stock now will be the revised version. And yes, I would agree that the aesthetic of the new raceguard is about as pretty as it’s gonna get…unless your going to use carbon for the next gen? Can you make one for me :P

EDIT: What about offering anodised (colour choice) bolts for the single bolt raceguard. They’ll all take the p*ss but, just like all who’ve matched their hubs, skewers, brake hose bolts etc, they’ll sell. I’ll have a gold bolt please, to match my Hope bore caps :wink:

MTB/Roading and all the the other FUN things we engage….all great ways to excape the utter shite we have to deal with during our working life + I draw particular pleasure from meeting a whole bunch of new folks.

I too have sprogs and thus don’t get out hardly at all these days, they consume everything…time, money, energy….marriage…best stop there :oops:

If you want addiction/obsession then I dare you to get into Triathlon (long distance)…..was that even a question from the OP??