Just spotted this,

+ 1 with TJ.

I can’t for the life of me understand how they can charge £20+ for a bleed kit. Does it come with replacement parts etc??

For what it’s worth, I recently had the exact same job. I had a quick YouTube sessh (HOPE clips on how to do it) and job done. For once, a service task that was easy and for once didn’t take me all afternoon and 10 mugs of coffee :)

Blimey, have I clicked the wrong thread? Thanks-giving, bit early isn’t it?

It’s a quick fix environment with no face to face, I for one jump in and horse around, I help when I can but I sure as sh*t don’t waste my time crying about a lack of feedback.

Cease being so precious and HTFU! 8O :wink:

CAVEAT

I’m available for free and impartial advice on:

Website etiquette
Separation anxiety syndrome (Chockolate)
Team building
How to win friends

You would not believe the lengths I’ve been to in order to access/transfer these photos …..how many dodgy software sits?

Hi all, please forgive my bumping this thread..but…

After my tongue-in-cheek dig at this bike, and subsequent verbal lambasting, I was almost 100% confident that it was a ‘case of the missing cable outer’.

I contacted mate and shot over to sort it for him, but no! I had expected to see the cable stops and evidence that indeed this had been fitted but no…I’m at a loss tbh. The lad is strapped for cash atm and I’d really like to help him out; get out on the trails.

I snapped some pic on mobile (can’t access em yet, tried sms to email that’s not working either) and will endeavour to post them up.

Essentially

1. The front mech is a strange sort of cantilever ‘over the top’ type of pull (I only know XT, Ult, DA). A cable outer would not work/fit with this, unless the lads failed to fit all of it? It looks and functions ok however.

2. The plastic cable guide running under the BB sort of tapers out to nothing and so again, I can’t see evidence or how to ‘butt-up’ a cable outer.

3. His frame is similar to the pictures posted, but still differs.

Any tips would be welcomed, like I say he’s a sound bloke and I’d like to help him out.

Cheers.

Yep, OP is still here. Stick and stones….. :!:

Now, I really must get back to work which isn’t a euphemism for cowardly antics. I really have to go :cry:

Laughing at your statement KINGTUT……..

At least this thread had brought a smile to our Autumnal faces :wink:

Friend built it up. I’m assuming he’s replaced all the bits correctly…there, perhaps, is the crux of the problem.

Um, will take another look at it.

I remain steadfast that it’s an utter pile of shite, sporting p1ss poor design.

Odds favour the moon falling down, than me doing something wrong….

Ok, what am I missing here :roll: :wink:

Granted, the mech is a tad bashed but as I’ve said it shifts almost ‘utterly-butterly’ in the stand but load that rear suss….??????

I wasn’t going to look at it again, but the STW collective have installed an inferior craftmans complex (ICC) :P

Must get back to work.

wwaswas,

wrong = no data stored for this string

….it was produced for Halfords distribution only apparently! It was a cheapy I think…but it still made me laugh.

Cable too short, I’ve heard them all now :lol:

Specific under the BB cable trunking, could braze an eyelet on but it’s a lost cause imho. The flaw is in the mech moving with the rear-sus triangle, it’s not isolated. Thus, it sets up beautifully in the stand but sitting on it ‘virtually’ lengthens the cable; bit like bending a bow (as in bow and arrow) backwards with a hinge in the middle….if you catch my drift.

A bit like this one, front mech mounting was on a very short bit length of tube; barely enough for adjustment.

Essentially, it’s a heap of crap!

laugh! I nearly gave myself a hernia, I’m actually lost for words :lol:

Just goes to show how effective sussers really are, coupled with hydros.

The fact that your expending brain-time on this subject is beyond me….rolling res on a mountain bike…go figure girl-friend 8O :P

God how I miss Dartmoor :(

:P

Okay, I’d like to clear up some urban myths about turbo training – been actively (no sssoooo active atm ) turbo-ing for 5+ years now (not continuously, before you’all start).

I’ve never ridden on rollers so this is going to be a one sided event.

1. You DO NOT NEED a dedicated tyre, even when I was IM training I simply bunged on an old wheel fitted with a vit rubino – absolutely fine. I’m doing the same right now with an old winter hack. Yep, it’s fine to just jump straight onto the road with the same tyre….see 2. for tyre wear.

2. Tyre and turbo roller wear; Pump your tyre up to the exact same pressure each time, DO NOT crank up the roller pressure or you’ll (eventually) fudge the roller and bearings + begin to snap spokes – watch the latter for those out of the seat sprints! You really don’t need heaps of roller pressure against the tyre.

3. They are piss-easy to transport.

4. Don’t waste your time thinking ‘I’ll just get a cheapy for winter, I’ll not use it much’…kind of crud (as I did ). Get yourself a Tacx Flow, some folk diss them but if you utilise their multiple functions they really are a fab training tool……you’ve got to ‘get into it’, but watch out, it’s highly addictive!

5. Boring session; I beg to differ. Yesterday evening I was ramping up watts whilst monitoring cadence …I could monitor HR if I wished (power is the key to using indoor trainers). The beauty of the Flow is you can instantly flick through variables on the bar unit, observe the power graph whilst doing so (feel the pain) or chose to train with static load & cadence…have I mentioned running time and distance….there’s more.

6. One can upgrade (when I’m working that is) the ‘Flow’ to an ‘i-magic’ (google it) and race other users online in real time in virtual reality…boring you say?

7. DO NOT buy a gel type, I trashed mine very quickly…go for the magnetic versions. More expensive but I’ve had ZERO trouble from mine since 2005…it’s showing no sign of wear and I purchased it second hand…quality :-)

8. You can capture the training data…tracking progress (i magic only, but I bet a PC geek could interface the screen output)

9. More advanced versions, made by other manufacturers are available but you get my point(s). There’s heaps of choice now.

10. Due to my current life-style, I’d be seriously gutted without my turbo….it’s been a life-saver.

11. Rollers….erm, I believe they go around?

Keep an eye on Flebay for end of season shop sales. It is expensive, but it’s materials and tayloring is uber nice. I’ve tried a few of the ‘up there’ brands and there’s just a certain je ne sais quoi to Assos. But I have to agree that £200+ is just madness imo.

He stands well back, awaiting the ill-taylored Aldi Peloton to arrive :P

The Gore stuff is well fitting, not too expensive. I found it a better fit than Giordana.

That’s it I’m out of here……………………….

Bobblehat,

Oh no, I jumped in and purchased the following from ebay before reading your reply….

…Arctic Silver Thermal ADHESIVE 7g

NOTE: Even though Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is specifically engineered for high electrical resistance it should be keep away from electrical traces pins and leads. The cured adhesive is slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridged two close-proximityelectrical paths.

I imagine the guy’ll do a swap, one learns :lol:

If you own a quality turbo trainer …..

[mag type with comp bar mounted control: not essential, but a world better than the fluid type. Had one of those fail on me spilling it guts out, I digress]

Then a really simple session (only an hour) is as follows…..

[However you’ll need to bang it out a few times to determine the resistance you can handle for the final half hour]

15 mins easy spin, big ring-little cog at approximately 40% of your max watt (or resistance) output over 3mins…aim for a ‘Soupcon’ of perspiration.

Drop to middle ring, 7mins left leg only…then repeat t’other side. [You might be shocked with the ‘holes’ in your ‘continuum’]

Pain Bit

Back into ‘Hurt locker’ gearing, simple ramp up the watts on the work phase of 3mins at max sprint, 1 min recovery. Work through the final half hour like this; try to hit (and maintain for each set) your max output at ‘just gone a quarter to the hour’.

Then,

Vomit
Fall off bike (which remains in turbo until core work, shower milky drink are sorted)

If you don’t have a turbo

Nice gentle jog to your local 30 ish metre steep hill and…

Begin with 10 reps, build speed through the set until you’re hitting max sprint for the final 3 or so. You must have TOTALLY recovered (or as best as you can measure) your heart rate to your jogging value before each set…even if it means walking back down!

Approx £30 for chain, the only downside for me (forgot to mention this) it come supplied with only one pin?? Unless, they’re Uber confident that it’ll not stretch/snap etc? Suffering from over-excitabality when it comes to fitting/owning new things, it has been known for me to fudge things from time to time – hence a couple of pins would have been the cherry in the box….so to speak :wink:

Definately not down the drain, I used local tip + 1 Re; volume.

Sugru arrived,(will post up pickies for you trout re switch housing.

Just need a small power socket and lead to extend out from unit?

Should have build underway week on Mon….it’s gonna be tight.

Could I get away with glueing the driver to the wall of the unit Trout, using that Artic Silver (Maplins?)?

Cheers

…own mtbr’s with their superior power & endurance??

8O :P :lol: :mrgreen:

fontmoss, that could be sweet…allow more time to rebuild bike and get over current MAN flu.

You have a route in mind?

Isn’t it flat in Cheshire, I mean isn’t that the land of TTing :P

oops, for Haloween insert Halloween :roll:

You should experience ‘even-wear’ through both legs, quads and hamis…more the quads GENERALLY (I’m not going into the entire muscle groups available to cycling power throughout the 360 cycle).

Excessively tight HS could be a result of many things, as you rightly suggest technique and position.

Are you able to jump onto a turbo and post a YouTube link for us??

Children all day till 8pm…. oh god help me!

I’m experiencing love from ignitors LUST up front, with Conti MKings rear…believe it or not.

While we’re all handing out advice on cloths I thought I’d chip in. I may have posted this rant-esque up before, apple-o-gies if it looks familiar.
I received ‘a degree’ of slamming for suggesting that Assos gear is worth the money; I’ve always been the ‘You get what you pay for’ type of guy. That said, some of the top end stuff is silly price; if you’re patient, and wait for the sales (thinking ahead pays) then savings are out there.

So, I picked myself up (after STW beating) and embraced the Aldi rush for jackets and merino. I actually made a specific journey to Aldi, which was a first.

UTTER SH!TE!

Sub standard cut, poor quality materials, finish poor/dull/cheap & the most important aspect – looked p!ss poor :P
I simply don’t understand the popularity? Granted, not all of my purchases have stood up to the hype, but I can count them on one hand. That, over a (dare I admit) 20 years can’t be bad?

I remain stalwart in my decision to not buy cycling gear from a grocery store.

Thank you and goodnight.

Caveat: Skint atm :mrgreen:

Dr Death,

Um, that reads just like a ‘text’ book!

What about dynamic stability? There are some great points throughout this thread, however they are generalised. You must obtain a reliable diagnosis to the severity (alluded to) which in turn will dictate the treatment plan.

Go find a well seasoned sports physio as they will have clinically observed such presentations from start to ….well further down the line than other medical professionals and therefore would hold a broader treatment knowledge base.

Tubigrip is poor/next to useless for stability. However, who can tell me for which application (relative to situations such as this) it is good for?

For gen ‘all rounders’, I’ve tried,

Nike (Pegs, air) = shite
Saucony = ok, but heavy and let me down on motion control even after diligent research/self examination of bio-mech’s.
Asics= Good, until ‘upgrade’ of my fav’s…uppers not so robust, toes break through+toe protection stitching weak.

Currently on Mizuno Ultimate 2 = Good so far (100 – 150 miles of mixed)

CAVEAT

Trainers are such a personal entity, good luck with ur ‘Grail Quest’

Hey trout and the LED collective…

Re: troutie old little one 8O

Not much LED construction coming out of the LT workshop atm, sorry guys. I’m currently up against it work wise atm.

That said, I’m amassing parts: power socket gonna look tidy; thinking of adding a visor to the unit to increase surface area with heat loss in mind…have pivot mounting in mind..might separate two small&thin Ali plates between mount and unit for further heat sinking.

Any news on CK’s mounting source??

timwillows, how are you getting on?

I do have an eye for art, I enjoy it and when I have the time one likes to have a dabble but ‘pieces’ such these simply do not float my boat – I get the concept, but I’d rather experience it on beautiful natural beach rather than a contrived envronment.

I thought it sad, boring and what’s worse…folk actually bought into the BS! Get outside you boring people!

Hand painted my butt-cheeks! Maybe in batches of 10^6 with an army of sprayguns.

I’m off to fill my local lake with concrete, to juxtapose nature’s plight against humanity :roll:

Previous post was a bit pants so if you can make your way to Chesterfield, I’ll gladly help if I can… u could try my tyres etc.

Hope you do manage to sort, coz once you do it really does enhance your xc experience.

LT

Ditch the tyres, running the risk of becomming an utter bore… 819 rims+conti rear+maxis front nothing but joy. In fact, so reliable it’s a bore!

At least having a puncture now and again used to be interesting :P

Now you just want to rip my head off, sorry.

I’ve not seen many folks using scott tubeless, are they on wiggle’s or CRC’s ‘Best Sellers’? Always a good indicator :wink:

Thanks for speedy response,

so gen advice = go up a size?

Nice looking unit CK,

May I ask how you bonded the heatsink to the driver board; in the pic I can make out what looks like solder ‘cusps’ to the centre of the holes you’ve drilled. Do you/have you then filled these holes with solder to connect those ‘cusps/blimps/remenants’ to the heat sink plate?

Thanks.

LT

No time to read the entire post, apologies for repetitions.

1) Nothing wrong with 120, I use it all the time: 150/160 on tubulars

2) Rim tape check good idea

3) I’ve had 7 punctures in 5 years – Vittoria rubino for training, conti comp tubular for races. Four of which were cased by the tiniest shard of flint stuck in my tyre that needed psi plus 1 or 2 miles before slicing through the tube (not the conti comps, never had a flat on those, but that’s superfluous).

4) There clearly is a problem in your system, you shouldn’t puncture every time you go out…that it gets to the stage of becomming part and parcel of roading.

Feel free to email me, we can talk through some ideas if u wish… I’ve raced tri for a few years, not that I’m fast, but I’ve made the mistakes and learned from them :)

Could be a goer with 1/2 or full shank