Check Argos – we ordered one this morning for pickup in store.

I do that on mine, but a quick wrap of Biketart’s framewrap stops any damage.

I find them very different from my lockons, lighter and easier on the hands but don’t give that feeling of stability. I used them at last years 24/12 in apocalyptic conditions and the grip was fine – they’re still on my rigid hardtail now and are great for local trails. I still prefer the lockons for my FS when out on rockier/more demanding trails.

Brilliant bike, and as has been said, just as happy doing Peaks downhills as 100k xc rides. I have a 2010 model and had a cracked rear triangle on the driveside chainstay – replaced within 3 days (by the then importers, Evolution). No problems since, I took it to the Alps in the summer and it coped perfectly.

Not a great picture (or garden) but you get the idea:

Sorry, can’t help with your query but how are you finding the bike? I’m looking at a scale 910 but haven’t had chance to get a test ride yet.

I use a trailstar on the front for trail centres/rockier places and have been very impressed so far. Go up easily tubeless as well. Not worth the uk rrp cash but certainly worth getting from the usual German sites.

Beeline down the Cowley road is probably the biggest and I’ve had a few things done there through necessity but haven’t been that impressed unfortunately – poor communication and less than perfect spannering. You might be better looking at some of the shops towards Chilterns/Wycombe way – I’ve been recommended one but can’t remember its name unfortunately.

I’ve had wheels from them on both bikes for the last 4 years – still perfectly true. Highly recommended.

Always run my mud-x’s tubeless, on stans arch. Pump up easily with a track pump and have never had any problems in 3+ years.

I’d be interested in this as well, I have a Soda that I’m tempted to play about with wheel-wise.

The Craft Cool Mesh Superlight baselayers are excellent – come in a ‘T’ or vest.

It’s objecting to being attached to an Apollo.

🙂

The Koolstop salmon pads are good, or the dual compounds they do with black at the front of the pad and salmon at the rear.

A friend ended up in 6th at one point even though he was way down, looking at his lap times he was credited with an 11 minute first lap which was good going! There’s another on the list with an 11 minute first lap as well.

That’s a really nice build 🙂

Simonm – what exactly is your problem? I have not posted this on yeti fan. Even if I did it would be f-all to do with you. This wasn’t an anti-yeti thread, it was me trying to get opinions as to whether the damage was a crack or not. Turns out it was, I got great service and will now continue to enjoy my bike. I’ve had some good opinions and advice on this thread which have been very much appreciated. Then there is yours.

4th forum? No, I’ve posted on bikemagic and here.

Yes – no charge

Great service from Bromley Bike Co. – sent the rear triangle to them to have a look at on Monday and received a new one in the post today.

Which esi grips are people using – the racers edge or chunky?

Cheers everybody. I’m expecting the worst but that’s biking I guess. I’ve sent Bromley an email with a picture and will wait to see what they say.

What a PITA. It’s my bike for the 24/12 in 3 weeks :-(. Also means a 2hr trip to Bromley Bikes to get them to have a look. These things happen I guess. Anyone know what kind of timescale Yeti warranty stuff takes? (if it turns out I need a new rear triangle)

I had a Chris King put in my asr5 to use with tapered forks. Couldn’t give you a link but was put in by Bromley Bikes.

Great pic 🙂

RRR ygm

It all depends on your riding style. How far you lean the bike in corners for example will make a big difference on which tyres will suit you – I tried a high roller up front but because I don't lean enough to get the grip from the big side knobbles they felt sketchy to me. Does'nt make them a bad tyre, just not for me. For what it's worth I've settled on a Minion dhf single ply on the front and a racing ralph UST on the back. Suits me perfectly (but may not suit you!)

Montane featherlite velo – best bit of kit I've bought.

I have the asr5 alloy and also love it. I transferred the coil revs from my other bike and run them at the suggested 120mm, but I have some fox f120's on the way with tapered steerer and qr15 so it'll be interesting to see the difference. Great bike.

I think I had a chat with you Darren – you stopped at the top of one of the small fireroad climbs, I was the tall knackered bloke on the white yeti (well, mud coloured one). Think you were 15th at the time so 11th was a great result – well done on the sponsorship as well.
It was my first bike event of any kind so I didn't have a clue what to expect but it was a great experience, and I'm glad I went for the 24solo even though I'm still suffering!

I had run arch's with normal tyres and rimstrips for a couple of years and always had a struggle inflating without co2. Last weekend I took out the strips and used just yellow tape with ust tyres and was amazed how easily they inflated. UST all the way for me now.

If the tyre is a non-ust you might have better luck with a rimstrip in there.

Forge197 – what's the deal with the size of the loop of cable on the rear mech? I only ask because I'm just finishing off my asr5 build and I know in the manual it says be sure to leave enough to allow for the suspension but I wasn't planning on leaving that much?

Someone likes him, he's in the top 3!

Don't get me wrong – I like him, he's got a real passion for what he does and I think he'd be great in a band, but the soloing just doesn't cut it imo.

Wipeout is not hard to play. The kid is good for his age but that's about it. Good but nothing outstanding.

Says about the headset on the front page

njee20 – Member

They're not that tough.

I run my 2.1s at 25-30psi without any problem, but I'm only 10.5 stone. They do squirm more than some, and they wear out pretty fast.

But… they're very light and grip very nicely. My favourite all-purpose tyre.

Hmmm… I'm over 2 stone heavier so I'm not sure they'd suit. I usually run 2.25 snakeskin ralph on the rear that works well so could try one on the front but I'm not sure I've got enough skill for the lowered levels of grip from the minion I've got at the moment (you've seen me ride njee20 – it's not a pretty sight!).

How robust are the Ron's? looking at running a 2.4 on the front tubeless on a stan's arch but was worried about the stiffness of the sidewalls?

I found the high roller grippier and more predictable than a minion on the front. HR works well for an aggressive style of riding, you get loads of grip in the centre, then none, then loads on the edge. A lot of people seem to struggle with that transition. Minion has less transition than high roller but I found it less predictable

I guess it shows how one person's style of riding suits 1 tyre and not the other. I hated the HR as a front tyre – for the same reasons you like it. I'm not an agressive, lean into corners type rider and found it wasn't grippy enough for me as I wasn't utilising the side knobs properly. Swapped to a Minion and found loads more grip and great predictablity for my riding style. Horses for courses….