Thanks for that cynic-al, I hadn’t seen that site before. Seems a bit out of date however.

From the research I have done it would appear that Continentals might be quite low, height wise… anyone any experience of how a Baron 2.3 stacks up against a HR2?

@ndthornton: frame is from 2009, tyres were smaller back then for sure! Using offset bushes to fix it will steepen the head tube angle.

Found another site (in German) that has some detail on these types of things: http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de

I think single-ring setups with expander sprockets and/or short derailers are more prone to this. You’re running a lot of chain for the relative size of the chainring to higher cassette gears, and are at or beyond the limit of the derailer. Chains have a lot of mass, and can move even a clutched derailer cage, through vertical movement over rough ground. If you’re in a high gear on a fast undulating trail the derailer clutch sometimes can’t keep up and the chain slacks off the chainring. This is compounded by full suspension geometry with a lot of chain growth. It’s definitely more unusual on a hardtail, but not impossible.

BB30 bearings – no matter what the brand – seem to last about 600km in my Cannondale Rize. Granted it sees a lot of wet gritty mud, but still that’s a fairly horrendous lifespan. And yes they’re installed correctly. XT hollow BB’s last many thousands of km in the same conditions.

^ Yup, I’ve regularly done this, usually with improvement in small-bump performance.

A linear guess will be very close to right. Strict linear would give 7.5w at a 3:1 ratio using 5w and 15w. You could go 7:3 for 8w or 8:2 for 7w depending on if you feel like the fork is under-damped (too active) or over-damped (not active enough) respectively. In any case all three of these options will be close enough to the original spec. “w” commonly referred to as “weight” is a very subjective marking anyhow – every manufacturer determines it differently.

If it’s for an MTB fork an approximation of the weight is fine. You might err on the side of lighter or heavier depending on your preference. If it’s for an engine of some kind I’d rather a more scientific approach i.e. monitor the oil pressure and temperature.

Fully synthetic usually mixes fine, with predictable results – in this case a 7 parts 5w to 3 parts 15w will give you 8w.

Renthal Fatbar Lite Carbons are flexy in an acceptable way, they’re 740mm though.

I was dubious prior to purchase – I really wanted a something with Polartec Neoshell, but they were all mad money locally – so I ended up with an outlet store Patagonia Active Shell and it’s fantastic even in the recent end-time torrents.

It doesn’t matter who’s right, she is.

I’m about 5’11 with roughly a 33″ inseam – I would not be able to fit a 150mm reverb into my bike and still be able to actually pedal it… it’s a medium Cannondale Rize. In any case 125mm is more than enough drop: I never had my saddle as low as the reverb goes previously. Make sure you measure and measure again.

Stunning attention to detail and a brilliant looking frame. Any idea on rough cost overall?

I couldn’t wear contacts for a while so I just put some medical tape on my glasses to stop them slipping about (the salmon coloured rough type, not the slippy white type) Just a small bit on either side of the bridge and behind the ears. Made a massive difference.

1091R is the best 10-speed chain out there.

I’ve never had one fail even when very well worn. Can’t say that for XTR unfortunately.

Wiggle have them at a good price at the moment.

The air volume reducers do this more reliably.

Yes, unfortunately I had a similar experience: even if it’s 200 quids worth of damage they will charge you the full excess.

40mm plastic waste pipe usually does the trick. There’s sections you can buy that have a bulged end with threads on it for a dual use 1-1/8 on the straight end, 1-1/2 on the bulged (cut off the threaded bit square).

I had rev’s dropped to about 120/130 on my Soul. Felt super-stiff. Just the way I like it.

This worries me. I got a Zee because it looked tougher than XT / SLX… What happened?

lol, sorry I did miss the freestanding bit. To be fair, the fire-door still makes a class work-surface: big, strong, smooth, square and importantly: cheap. Even fancy ply surfaces have warped on me in the past, any of the “door” based benches I’ve made are still perfect.

Cheapo fire-doors make brilliant workbenches. Attach back length to a bit of timber attached to solid wall, support front corners. Done.

Avoid.

I recently tried to buy a replacement hub direct (could not find in any online store) as I wanted to go from the original – bad lockring – version of the QR hub to one that was 10mm and XD compatible. They beat around the bush for weeks then gave me a flat out “no”: if I wanted to replace the hub for *any* reason the whole wheel would need to be returned to the USA at my expense + payment for work & parts needed. That was the end of my relationship with Easton. I insist on doing all my own work.

I turned of images and answered the questionnaire. I now wish I hadn’t.

I left some “constructive” comments.

I can’t read it because of the background. It’s striking out most of the lines of text.

There’s a few ways to approach this, ordered from tame to extreme:

– Chemical: Plus gas, penetrating oil, WD40: this might help, usually doesn’t and usually makes what you’re trying to remove slippy
– Shock / Impact: Impact driver, nut gun, hammer, air chisel: you need to be careful that you’re hitting something expendable which won’t damage whatever it’s connected to… but it’s usually successful in breaking the bond between corroded threads
– Brute force: generally leads to breaking things, or rounding things off
– Heat: heat-gun, oxy torch: High chance of success, but I wouldn’t try this on a bicycle frame as you could weaken the structure
– Drilling / cutting: Last resort as there’s a high likelihood of collateral damage, but I have had success with a dremel and a nearly welded-in bottom bracket… even a shallow groove can relieve the tension on an over-torqued thread