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Viewing 23 posts - 41 through 63 (of 63 total)
  • Using an eSIM To Stay Connected In Remote Locations While Hiking Or Biking
  • lion
    Free Member

    Make sure that your leaving enough time between undercoating and top coating with the satin. If your applying the top coat too soon it can drag like crazy. I’d leave four hours minimum between coats, lightly sanding between coats.

    To keep a wet edge going too you can use a water spray bottle with a fine mist nozzle and give the woodwork a light spray over before starting painting, or use a clean damp cloth like has already been mentioned.

    Get the paint on quick and dont mess about with it too much,  just lay off and it should settle fine.

    lion
    Free Member

    Another bedec recommendation from me, excellent products. Wait until its warmer though before painting.

    lion
    Free Member

    Cheers for the IGUS contact info, I will give them a call. I have some diagrams from nicolai but they are hand drawn type things and in German. Will see how i get on

    lion
    Free Member

    Id recommend sikkens bl satura for one of the best waterbased satin finishes.

    Always best over a good quality water based primer such as sikkens bl primer or caparol haftprimer.

    The johnstones aqua range is also pretty good and more readily available but can tend to yellow over time

    lion
    Free Member

    Thanks duir , i tried ringing geometron bikes today a couple of times but no answer, will keep trying or send an email.

    Yeah pretty sure mines on full bushings as it has the little grub screw on the other side from the bolt head.

    I think the horst link runs on a sets of bearings though.

    Is their a part number or something for the bushings so they can be sourced elsewhere? Like you would for hub bearings etc

    lion
    Free Member

    I tend to remove most of the pre-primed finish on mdf with a 240g sanding pad. Coat up with Zinsser coverstain to seal the furry edges. The coverstain then sands down lovely with 320g or finer ready for your finishing coats

    lion
    Free Member

    Cadenheads old raj (the 55% one) Tenu Finnish gin or Manchester gin would all be good choices. Lovely drop

    lion
    Free Member

    Look at an airless unit such as a wagner power painter 60 as a minimum really. This is a powerful enough unit but not overkill.

    You can get used to the feel of a sprayer by running water through it first and practicing outside on a brick wall or fence. This will let you get used to the different pressures and spray pattern.

    If the house has original features such as coving and ceiling roses or high ceilings etc then spraying can save you a lot of time especially in empty houses with no carpet down. The finish you get is only as good as the prep beforehand though remember.

    lion
    Free Member

    I would look into getting it painted professionally to be honest. Kitchens are a heck of a lot of work and expensive things!
    If you do decide to go down the diy route then I’d personally avoid johnstones acrylic eggshell on a kitchen and look into products by benjamin moore, tikkurilla or little greene. Paint application is a personal thing, some brush, some roll and lay off with a brush. Get the best products and tools you can afford basically

    lion
    Free Member

    Ps, a possible cure would be to remove as much loose paint as possible, clean down with a mild detergent and then coat with pliolite masonry paint. This would stop the oil/water based reaction. If that’s the issue that’s causing the problem.

    lion
    Free Member

    Is it happening on any other wall or just the curved wall with decking above? If so what prep did you do before re-painting with the dulux masonry after the stain bleed. If its just that one wall where the problem is then I’d suggest it’s contamination from the decking coating bleeding onto the render below

    lion
    Free Member

    Forgot the wallpaper stripper and either peel off the outer paper and soak the backing paper with hot soapy water then scrape off,

    Or score the outer paper and spray with a diluted solution of a product called zinsser dif (wear a mask) you will save yourself hours!

    lion
    Free Member

    Yep osmo oil is what you want. Excellent products

    lion
    Free Member

    I know nothing about American whiskey personally but a good friend of mine runs a small whisky shop and has quite a good selection of bourbons.

    https://www.houseofmalt.co.uk/product-category/all-whiskies/american-whiskey/

    May be of some use to you in finding what you want…

    lion
    Free Member

    We have a one and as has been said already, great dogs, doesn’t need a mega amount of exercise and is happy to laze around the house most of the day.
    Ours hates the cold and rain so invest in a good coat, we got an equafleece which are designed with sighthounds lurchers whippets etc in mind.
    Also loves comforts so will prefer to laze on the couch rather than his bed.
    They are food thiefs too and would eat and eat till their sick if allowed.
    Make sure that there is somewhere flat and open for them to run properly, we take ours out into the hills regularly but due to their spindly/delicate nature they are more suited to fields and flat open spaces where they can run full tilt!

    lion
    Free Member

    This Australian whisky is a bit different https://www.houseofmalt.co.uk/product/starward/
    It’s very good, quite highly sherried.
    Some very good Bourbons and rarer whisky’s on the above house of malt site too.

    lion
    Free Member

    As has been suggested bedec barn paint or bedec msp both good. Sadolin superdec would be another option

    lion
    Free Member

    I started this thread on various other forums and reading other similar threads its amazing how much conflicting information there really is on the subject of painting decorating,
    I’m almost certain no one actually knows what they’re doing.

    Mainly because a lot of the people on the internet giving the information don’t make a living out of doing the work! Decorators will have conflicting views on products and brands etc but at the end of the day there are correct ways of doing things.

    All the best with your project anyway :-)

    lion
    Free Member

    Your diamond matt topcoat needs time to cure that’s all. Durable/Scrubbable emulsions are mostly based around acrylic resins and can take up to 30 days in some instances to cure fully before being able to be wiped, cleaned down or attacked with tape for that matter ;-)

    Your mist coat sounds fine if it hasn’t pulled off with the tape. Just follow the instructions on the back of the tubs of paint and you can’t go far wrong. Dusting and cleaning down the plaster prior to the mistcoat is also best practice to prevent adhesion issues.

    Probably too late now but if you’ve lots more to do then I’d suggest forgetting the dulux and using crown clean extreme, little green intelligent emulsion or isomat 2000 scrubs emulsion.

    lion
    Free Member

    Used http://www.houseofmalt.co.uk a few times. Good selection and their own bottling too

    lion
    Free Member

    Boreal flyer’s, can’t fault them

    lion
    Free Member

    how much did the freehub and/or bearings set you back out of interest? just totting up costs…

    lion
    Free Member

    Cranstons food hall just off junc 40 at Penrith, also Mr Vikki’s curry (market stall at Keswick on a sat) and his pickles/sauces etc available from Cranstons, King Naga and Banana Habernaro being particularly good. For beer, the Old crown at Hesket newmarket or the Bitter end at Cockermouth

Viewing 23 posts - 41 through 63 (of 63 total)