3 & ^web cam

I may very well do a sportive or two on my fat bike ^ too, and I wouldn’t take my TT bars off. They’ll be staying on for chaingangs as well, but wont get used unless I deem it safe to do so.
You just use common sense and don’t use them in a group, its not hard.

****!

Ive got a medium X5 mech on my 2×10, it came with 22×36 bottom gear and I put a 42 on the back and it worked fine, I didn’t even have to lengthen the chain.
Im sure Shimano aren’t much different.

I fixed my friends one that wouldn’t work, water had got in and the circuit board was a bit corroded.
It came apart very easily and I just cleaned everything and now it works perfectly.

I just watched this, I hope you have all the MS spyware disabled too!

I just used a standard mtb one with extendible legs

Lots of people put floaters up to 40 psi to help seat them, yours sound like they were faulty.
You should contact OO it the tyre is now knackered after blowing up.

To seat tight tyres, you just have to use lots of lube!
Are you on Facebook, as there was just a pile of posts about people trying different methods to seat/lube tyres.

No, don’t do it.
Li-ion don’t like to be messed with, but if you would like to make a small bomb, thats the way to do it!

You’ll just have to use low on the way home or cycle faster.
Oh, and this is why I always carry a spare light, front and back.

Looks good, let us know if you die!

The pics above aren’t mine, I was looking for a problem solver when I was after a new wheel for my fatty and thats what I came across. Luckily, I did manage to find a wheel which had the correct hub on it, so I didn’t have to filing.

Yeah its stupid, but you can make it work with just a bit of filing~

Just ignore the usual bs Chinese carbon scare story replies above, I have exactly the same bars and matching stem on my fat bike.
I have a £13 130g carbon bar on my other fatty and that has had lots of abuse over the last 6000 miles I have used it for.

I also have 200g integrated carbon stem/bar on my 29er and that has been perfect.

Its just the same as buying any product, just look after it and check it over every now and again.

I use Masterlock Street Cuffs for my town bike.

Yep, its great when it all goes to plan.
You still get a lot of time wasters, but that’s life.

I use it all the time for selling stuff.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/clingfilm-tubeless

Maybe not so much in real life/talking to people you know personally, but it is regularly talked about on here.
The people who start the threads usually get lots of excellent advice and help.

It could be a scam, or maybe not.

Would you go to a strangers house with that much money hoping that (they actually live there and aren’t just waiting outside a strangers house!) they do have something for sale and that they’re not just going to rob you?

There was a program on TV a while ago about scammers selling dodgy cars outside addresses that they didn’t live at, so when the buyers went back to the address for their money back, nobody at that address knew what they were talking about.

A guy came all the way from Newcastle to Edinburgh to buy my bike, he didn’t have the money on him “just in case”, and he had to go out to his car and get it when he decided he wanted to buy the bike and I wasn’t going to rob him!

Pogies.
In all my years of cycling and the constant cold hands no matter what gloves, or how many I wore, a simple pair of Pogies means I can ride without cold hands when the weather gets well into freezing temps.
They are the best cycling item that I have ever bought and because they’re on my fat bike, they don’t look to out of place.

Get your file out 😉

How big a screen size are you wanting?

You have to look after Li-ion if you want them to last.
As above, storing them at 50% is recommended, (3.8v) and keeping them cool is the most important.
I use mine quite a lot and store them fully charged, but as I keep them in the fridge, there is no issue with that.
I keep all mine in the fridge, you need to keep them around 4c.
Heat kills Li-ion batteries, that is why laptop batteries don’t last very long.

Some good info here.

This is a video about the motor and the guy used it in a race, but its not in English.
If you read the comments, someone explains what is happening.

EDIT:
This what the commenter says:

Let me give you a short resume.Amateur cyclist Luc Keim (blue/black body2bike outfit) took part in a local amateur cycling event with a bike that was fitted with a 150watt electric motor.His fellow cyclists had no clue and neither did the course director.A Belgian tv crew was in on it and filmed the whole thing.
After that you see him competing against Belgian cycling legend Johan Museeuw,first without and then with the motor.He was about 40seconds faster with the motor!
Johan says that people who don’t do sports will have a hard time pushing 150watts.
They say the motor is the best of it’s kind.A Austrian company has it patented.Bart (the bald guy) is the distributor for the Benelux.(Belgium,Holland and Luxembourg).He says the price of the motor including mounting is around 2700 Euro’s (2950 US Dollars).He says he mainly sells the motors to amateur cyclists but is offered money by professional cyclists that want one.
8:25,video of the Ronde Van Vlaanderen 2010.There were rumors that Fabian Cancellara was using a motor.At the beginning of a steep part he supposedly switched on his motor and left Tom Bonen behind him without seemingly little effort.Many times he swapped bikes which was suspicious they say.Following the rumors UCI put bikes through a scanner in the Tour De France but after that event these checks were hardly been carried out.
At the end of the video Luc tells the course director about his motor.He was not surprised.Luc didn’t compete for the victory so they didn’t make a big deal out of it.
The use of mechanical doping is all over the news now since Belgian top favorite cyclo-cross rider Femke Van den Driessche was cought using a motor at the Women’s U23 World Cup cyclo-cross event in Zolder 4 days ago.?

If you have plenty of time to read a map, then you may find your way okay, but I checked out the first half last year, and I went the wrong way a few times, it was very easy to do on some of the sections and I had a gps.

Its because the battery cases (plastic ones) draw current even when switched off. Crap design.

Where did you come up with that?

toad, what are you charging them with?
A decent charger is worth paying for.
Torchys batteries are good, but there may be chance of a faulty one. Have you checked to see if the voltages are all the same?

I believe its in Sweden or somewhere similar, any one can look up and find an address with someone’s licence plate.

Northwind – Member
Ah that’s very cool, need to try this… I’ve got some packing wrap which I think is more or less the same stuff. What’s the purpose of the foam, in this? The DUne rims have a pretty good bead fit (they need foam in the middle but none at the edge) so I’m not too sure about adding extra stuff there…

Oh- does it keep working? The big practical drawback of the foam (apart from weight obviously compared to this) is that the foam compresses so what works on day one, then needs redone with more foam after a while to fit another tyre. I get the impression that the shrinkwrap will end up permanently blown out? Or, does it pop back out so it’ll mount the next tyre?

(if it needs redone, no big deal but if it doesn’t then **** inner tubes man )

I really don’t know why he used the foam because in my experience, it is not needed at all.
You don’t need to build up the middle as when you apply the wrap tightly, it automatically raises the middle giving it a good seal against the tyre when you first put it on, and that makes it 100% inflatable with just a normal pump.

Unfortunately, you will have to re-wrap it if you change tyres, but it is very cheap and only takes minutes to do.
Its just like the split tube method without the extra weight and expense of buying new inner tubes to cut up.

To me, its the best of the lot.
If you do want to have the rim sealed all the time, then you’d have to use the Gorilla tape method, but even then, you’d still have to build up the centre of the rim (usually with foam, that would get squashed and need replaced every time anyway!) unless you got yourself a compressor and can pop the tyre on that way.

Thats the good thing with the packing/shrink wrap, it doesn’t matter how deep your rim is, you pull it tight when you put it on and it just stretches across the rim and wont sink into the rim until you put the tyre on and start pumping it up, and then it will get pushed down and seal the whole rim.

I have now done both my OO Fatty wheels, Clownshoe and just did my Rolling Darrly a few days ago.
All of them went on and up without any problems at all.

I have loads of packing wrap and Im in Porty, you’re welcome to come down and I’ll show you how its done 🙂

Im after a 29er rear Mudhugger, so if anyone not wanting theirs any more, then I’ll have it 🙂

Yeah, the size is a bit much, but I have had one for the last 6 months and I am happy that I don’t have to worry about getting it wet or it getting broken should I fall on it or drop it.
Great battery life too, I only have to charge mine every couple of weeks.
For a cheap phone, its pretty good.

My OO Fatty with carbon fork came in at 15.24kg when it arrived.
I think I managed to drop over 2kg by drilling rims, swapping tubes, bars, stem, seat post, saddle and other wee bits and pieces.
I’d probably lose another 1kg if I put JJ’s on, so quite easy to make it pretty light with just basic cheap mods.

I am in the process of building up a Fatty Trail to be a race bike, so I’ll be quite interested to see how light I can get that using the standard Fatty wheels.

If you had time, then I would advise buying a nice frame and just building it up to the spec that you want.
The only reason to buy a complete bike is if you want to ride it ASAP.

I bought a Fatty Trail frame for half price and I plan to build that up as a race bike with the spec I want, within my limited budget though, so it may take a month or two before its finished.

Northwind, I linked to the exact post.
This one –

thenorthwind,the Dune is 2×8, not 2×10.
I’ve had my OO Fatty for just over a year and have put 5200 miles on it with the standard DB3 brakes, and have never had any problems. I do try and look after my stuff though.
I am actually still on the original chain/cassette and chainring!

The only reason to go for the Dune would be for the hub sizes which gives you the bigger availability of upgrades should you want them.
With the OO Fatty 135/170 QR, you are very limited in that department, especially in the secondhand market, although, I was very lucky to eventually get myself Rolling Daryl & Clownshoe built wheels secondhand that had the correct hubs and spacing 🙂

You guys seem to go through an awful lot of hassle to go tubeless when you can just use a dozen wraps of packing wrap and thats it done!
Ive done both my OO Fattys wheels and just did my Clownshoe wheel without any problems and its all done in a matter of minutes, I dont even need to build up the centre as the packing wrap already does that.
Tubeless, the easy way 🙂

Just get it and test it properly before you use it.
Carbon is very cheap and so is the labour, that is why these sellers can sell them so cheap.
My £13 130g carbon handle bar has been fine for the last year/5500 miles and my £200 ebay carbon f/f road bike has not killed me in 5 years/thousands of miles and I race on it too.
Thousands of people all over the world use cheap Chinese carbon parts and have not died.

It was only a few years ago I read that Pinarello buy their top end frames for $50!

If it was being sold at double that price, would you still be as scared?!

22t 64bcd and 36t 104bcd

The big ring actually has the specs printed on it and Google tells you the rest.

I get the full range of everything, and I have had it as long as I can remember.
It sounds a lot like all the sounds they give you during a hearing test.
You’ll get used to tuning it out and will only know it was going full chat when it stops and everything goes quiet for a bit!
Don’t bother your GP, they cant do anything about it.

Don’t forget to change the tyres, the Missions are one of the worst tyres out there!

Im sure its the other way around.
I got my fatty just over a year ago, and my freehub is the aluminium red one.
I am sure the new ones are steel, which is what the black one looks like.

My brother got this last year, likely from a shared jacuzzi (very common apparently)!
Its like most other things, if you catch it quick enough and get to the docs before it gets worse, then it shouldn’t be too bad.
After about 3-4 months, my brother is back to normal.

^ Yep!