There was a bigish story about EGG customers last year getting told they were getting their cards cancelled because of the way they were handling their account!
I dont think EGG ever said why, but every person that got interviewed, was shocked because they have never been in debt and always pay the balance of in full.
I can see why the banks do it, because they are a business and if they dont make any money out of you, then it does them no good in having you as a customer!
Unfortunately for me im their perfect customer, as i have lots of debt and never pay of the balance, unless im transferring from one credit card to another!!

Will try and get back up tomorrow and see if its still there to get a pic.
Its a huge bugger, so it might be there for a while, although, his cap and arms might get killed by the rain.

And yes, it was close to midnight, i finished it just before 11pm, i was suppose to be going straight home, but couldnt resist going up and having a play.
If anyone wants to try and find it, its on Torduff RD in-between, the two reservoirs, just before the short climb upto the second reservoir.

WHY make your own mount, when you can get a simple and perfectly usable one from DX for $1.90????????????????????

cheap mount

Ive been using and selling these for years and the only issue is that if you have oversize bars, then you have to use a zip-tie because the bolts too short.

Ive got a 203mm disc on the front and it does the job, can be a bit awkward adjusting the inner pad depending on how many spoke you have, you can do the outside on the move.
Its all down to your choice, as you can now get hydraulics for the same price or sometimes cheaper!

Check out the Fiji site – fuji

I was going to get the S8000fd, but i was already committed to buying a S6500fd.
They are getting and selling the stock very quickly, so they dont have one for sale at the time i posted this, but they might have one tomorrow.

The S8000 got a very good review, but the newer S8100 didnt, but there are a few that might suit you.

I got a size 9 last year, but found them just a bit to tight and probably should have got 9.5 or 10, but thats the problem of buying mail order.
These one’s dont have a zip, its a draw cord thingy.
I actually thought they were ok and did the water test by running them under the tap and they were fine.

You can have them for £25 if you want.
If you take a 7-9 then they would probably be ok for you, but if they’re no good, then go for a size bigger than you probably would normally go for, so you can get a thicker winter sock in.

This seams to be a common problem with the 5mode models.
Ive had 2 lights come back to me (from customers) that were jumping modes.
So i just swapped them for simpler 2 mode models.
The guys who were using these, used these on road bikes where there is little shock taken up by the bike which didnt help.
Ive used these on my mtb since and find it very hard to make them change modes unintentionally and i have knackered front forks that dont really work.

As above, make sure the pill is tight and check in the tail cap,some models put a cover over the spring that might need tightened as well, then wrap some electrical tape around the battery to stop it rattling inside (or put tape inside the barrel,if you dont want to put it on the batterys).

If you need to lengthen the battery, then get some Earth magnets from DX (around 8-10mm) for a few dollars and stick these on the + end.

Ive done this and the only way it changes without me touching the switch, is by hitting the front of the light of something hard.

You should be fine using it on you’re mtb or helmet,anyway have you ever tried riding off road with it on strobe? it can be fun!!!

I just opened up my latest package from DX i got this morning, just after posting the above and its almost comical that as i was trying the lights out, one appeared to be DOA, but i went through the usual checks (as above) and the pill wasn’t tight enough, so i sorted that and everything worked fine!

The only thing ive noticed is that the last 7 lights ive received in the last few days, the current draw is not as high as my previous batch of lights i got about 4weeks ago,but i think this is a good thing as i think the older lights were putting out over 1200lumens and this batch is around 600-800, so the battery should last just that bit longer and to be honest, the older ones were just toooooo bright(if thats possible)!!!!!!!!!!

Stumpi, dont give up mate!

Ive gone through over 20 P7’s and the only one i had to send back was one i think i broke myself by shorting it when testing it.

Sometimes when you get the light, you have too tighten up the pill and just make sure the connection is good.
Take the lens cover and reflector out and use needle nose pliers to tighten/screw down the pill and when you’ve done that get a small screw driver and loosen then tighten up the screws to make sure the connection is good.
Now unscrew the switch (like you’re about to put a battery in) and see if it looks like anything is loose there.
It used to just be a bare spring, but now for some reason they put a cover over the spring and now its a round metal thingy which pushes down onto the spring and if this is loose, then the light will flicker.
Your light might be slightly different, but they usually copy each other.

Other than that, what batterys are you using, as the protected batterys are mm’s longer than the unprotected and sometimes you have to use a small magnet spacer to make them longer.
You can get them from DX or if that is the problem, then i have a couple spare i could send you.

Stick in there, they do work!!!!

Oh, and the Airbike is one of the lightest lights (as in weight) on the market, it’s less than 400 grammes all up and that’s including 3 Li-ion cells. Those P7 torches are about 300 grammes without a battery in.

300!!!!!!!!!!!

Try 148 (AK-P7) and then 48 for the battery.
Dont make stuff up if you dont know!

pk-ripper – Member

stumpi – just thought you might be interested – in my experience, it’s not the torch that’s the problem, it’s the batteries themselves. I’ve had two of my P7 torches “refuse” to work with no warning (having been working fine and then suddenly going off). Popping a new and fully charged battery in there and the torch is fine again…

Hey pk

Did you get the protected batterys??

I used them at first, but then decided not to, as i think because of the very high current draw from the LED, it just trips the protection circuit too soon and as you’ve found out, you end up with no light.

Its very easy to remove the circuit if you want to, its on the bottom of the battery and you just cut around it and RIP it out, its connected to top(+) by a thin wire which has to be removed too.
You will have to use a bit of tape to put the blue/silver plastic cover back on, but it’ll work fine after this and if you change the battery before the light gets to dim (around 60-80mins) then the battery will be fine.

Ive tested batterys after ive changed them when i do it this way and the voltages are usually over 3volts, well away from the 2.75 min of the battery.

Hey Stumpi

I would say its just unlucky.
I have been buying and selling these lights for quite a while now and i’ve only had a couple of faulty one’s out of over 60 that i’ve bought.

The customer service is fine, but because of the number of customers they have it can take a day or two, to get back to you.
It will take a good few weeks (3-5) before you get your replacement though!

If i was you, i would just buy another one while you wait, they’re still very cheap for what they put out.

Just ignore Ralph, he doesnt like cheap lights, but always has something to say on the subject!!

To let you know how good they are, my mate who own’s a very success full bike shop and has TOO MUCH money (imo) is going to buy one of me!!