Crikey – before tubeless I was running 35/40 since tubeless now running 30/32 no problems at all on all my local trails and 28/30 CX.

Stans 340’s and Schwallbe Rocket Ron’s cx 34’s

No need for a triple – 34/44 up front and a long cage rear mech with 11-32 at back – you will be able to get up anything you can on a mtb.
If you buy from a good lbs the will swap the stock bike with the mods.
Ridley do some great cx bikes and you can go for disk or canti.

54cm effective top tube looks about right for a CX bike at 5’9″ – 5’10”. Recommendatins are 1 – 3cm shorter top tube for cross – stops the front end washing out.
However, if he’s going to use it just for road riding/commuting may go up a size to 55.5cm top tube – wouldn’t go any longer!

Lower pressure (to a point) lowers rolling resistance – just like mtb tubeless.
Must admit though – ran road tubeless for a season year before last and must say didn’t notice any difference. But it was a faff.
However, now using tubed 25mm Ultremos with lower pressure and the ride is sweet (95psi rear and 85 front)
23mm Hutchinson Atom tubeless come in quite narrow – more like a 21 and anything wider is heavy.
Conclusion – I’ll stick with the Ultremos for now – just to add (fingers crossed) not a single puncture last summer season with 4000 miles done.

For your cross bike – off road – you can go even wider.
I ride 42 FSA on road bikes but 46 on Cross – extra leverage and control. Hope this helps.

Hi
I’ve been T1 for about 3 years now and have not altered my cycling at all – 4 to 5 time a week half MTB and half Road – road rides about 70 miles’ish and 3-5 hrs mtb rides.

I can usually go about 2 hrs after breakfast without having to test, however, when first diagnosed it was about 30 mins. Things were a bit erratic at first and my diabetic team and I couldn’t figure out why I would get spikes and troughs.

I was on Insulatard at the time which peaks – I have since moved on to Levimir which has a flat graph so doesn’t peak. I only take this once a day at bedtime as it lasts 20-24 hours – much more cycling friendly.

Did about 4000 road miles lasrt year plus the mountain biking and did the Etape du Tour.

Don’t let it beat you – don’t become a victim and keep riding as much as you want! Look at the “Team Novo Nordisk” road cycling team for inspiration and tips – they are all T1.

Happy cycling.

11-28 will be fine in the alps with a 34-50 compact however if you are using shimano 105/ultegra etc you can run a 30 without having to change the rear mech – it works.

Speedplay Zeros – advantage of being able to adjust the float.
Contrary to what others have said:

Not that expensive £100 for a quality product compares with Look Max 2
No harder to walk in – also recommend covers.
Easy maintenance – easy to grease – use an old syringe (I use one that came with some DMR pedals)
Absolute doddle to set up because of the non-centring float

Been using speedplays for 10n years and have never had a problem.

Flymo Petrol Power Air Cushion Mower – Honda 160 cc Engine – got one recently – fantastic – easyest thing ever!

Rapha often tweet or facebook codes for various offers. Last month there was a couple of codes and last week 15% of any Italian themed jersey and any jacket bought together. At the start of winter I used a code for 20% of their Softshell Jacket.Follow their facebook page and Tweets.
Prices are pretty similar to Gore, Castelli, Assoss, Etxeondo etc.

Lizard Skins DSP bar tape is the business – a little more expensive but worth it. Comfort and longevity.

Another Orange 5 owner here – two months with a Soul and I haven’t stopped grinning!!! Haven’t ridden the 5 either for that time – although it is good as well :-)

Tubeless defo – as said earlier I had the USE Sumo and found it awful – coupled with a Fizik Gobi the post was hard to adjust, the rails kept slipping and on bumppy terrain would tilt no matter how hard the bolts were done up – eventually went for Thompson post which is not as comfy but bomb proof and easy to adjust.

Five Ten Chase Freerunning Shoes 2012 – got there at CRC last week – first long rides at the weekend – faultless!
Previously had Five Ten Impacts and Shimano clowns shoes and the Chase were every bit as good – but without the bulk! Awesome!

Had a short ride thisafternoon and so far looking good – stiff enough, sticky and my heels diddn’t rub the chain-stays! Happy

not too flexible in the sole for mtb’ing?

No more so than the impacts or the Shimano flat shoes I’ve had but much less bulk!

Five Ten Chase Freerunning Shoes 2012
Just bought some from CRC – some sizes have a big discount – not chunky and have the stealth sole – excellent!

Check out
http://crossjunkie.blogspot.com/
Great blog and he has loads to say about the Dirty Disco – his top bike.

Talk to Darren at Strada – hand built A23 rims and choice of hubs – built for your individual needs – beat the Ksyrium Elites in a head to head.

Blimey! my 140bhp VW does 50-55 urban/combined and 60 moterway and i’m not very timid!

Dont use washing up liquids – many have salts in them!!!
I use car wash which works fine for frame and then something like Shit shifter for chain etc.

Why would you want to silence that wonderful sound!

My partner has an endura stealth jacket that is wind and water proof – she has worn it on practically every ride since the end of Oct. with just a merino long sleave thermal underneeth from freezing weather upwards. Good piece of kit.

Lots of soapy water brushed around rim/tire wall.
Also work round the kevlar bead with fingers and thumb to soften a bit – sometimes the bead can be stiff in places and that prevents a seal.

Liverpool-I’d have said boggies but probably a bit too much of a drive!

John Swan at Hexham Bike Shop always pleased to help.
Always had a good job done and they dont mind if you didn’t get the bike there. Fox dealer too.

Be different and refreshing – dont do one!!!
Everyone hates it and as said, serves no purpose.
Anyway – if its a team meeting everyone will know each other anyway.
More useful to have a coffee break and let folks network on their own.

Thanks – they sound just the job.

Its an interesting thing – harder doesn’t always equate to faster. This is only true on super smooth surfaces ie, a track etc. For typical roads if you are pumpped up hard your tyre will be bouncing off the surface alot and you will infact be loosing speed and efficiency due to not being in contact with the road. So in general, as some have said already, dont go above 100 psi for 23’s.

http://www.bryantx.gov/brazoswat/stretch.htm

Only thing I can find – its stretch numder 3 and hold it for 30 seconds and do it about 3 times a day.

I have a similar issue but brought on by guitar playing – pain on bike also when shifting etc.
Its improving since seeing a physio who gave me some thumb stretches to do. Basically pull the thumb back and down towards outside of elbow – if that makes sense – hold for 30 seconds 3 x a day.
As I said after three weeks its improving quite dramatically.

Saw the pics earlier – impressive but I didn’t fancy the cables for a head mounted light – also whats it like for weight?

Built better half a bike based around an 15″ Orange Diva frame (dude stickers not the girly ones). The bike is ideal with 120mm forks as she is short(5ft)but with longish legs.
So womens specific good for her but its not always the case.
Best to get advice in a good lbswho knows what they are talking about.

Thanks for the replies.
I was thinking in tems of the new Joystick.
I have a set of Electron 16 LED which my better half can use when we are out together (bout once a week) and I was thinking of using the Joystick. But if I’m out on my own or with mates I can use both.
Just not sure what it would be like using the Joystick on its own when out with partner?
Cheers