I suck at jumping, and always have.

^ this

We had 2 people fly tip in the village recently, our parish clerk (who is a determined soul) sorted through it and found a letter with a name, address and phone number in one pile and a credit card statement with a name and address with a mobile number scrawled on it in the other.

Both people have been contacted and asked to collect their ‘belongings’ and issued with official paperwork to start the process of fining them. A builder who kept flytipping on the Monarch’s Way in Shawford (near Winchester) ended up being secretly filmed by HCC and has also been prosecuted but sadly this is only 3 cases of around 100 or so we’ve seen in the last 12 months.

And don’t get me started on the persistent dog fouling and hanging dog sh*t in hedges!

I think they’ll only warranty up to a 130mmm fork.. I love my TR but if it doesn’t fit then it’s not the bike for you IMHO. Can you get a test ride?

How tall are you? I ride a medium with a 50mm stem and I’m 5′ 10″ tall

What’s your route back to Hull, how about the Elan Valley, llanwrtyd Wells or Builth Wells – plenty of really good riding around those or less distance would be Afan?

BigDug.co.uk good quality and reasonable prices

@boxxer7 Sort of agree but the main reason I went for the 13 TRS cassette was that it’s 9-44T and as I run a 32T oval front on my FS and can’t fit an oval 34T I wanted the 9T to help with spinning out on the road. I rode the FS last night and went down the best bit of singletrack in the area and spun out as it’s dry and dusty!

The 44T is going to help if I can get a 34T non-oval to fit.

I’ll report back over the next few weeks/months

Mine’s just arrived and is sat on my desk so I’d also like to hear if anyone has any any long term feedback.

I have a Bird Zero TR, frame plus parts I already had, and it’s a great bike. The TR3 linked to ^ looks pretty good for the money and even if your mate doesn’t want ‘the latest & greatest’ he doesn’t want something he can’t upgrade if the bug really bites! IMHO

A bucket of water helps :-)

I use a really good guy who opened his own shop recently, he charges a high hourly rate but does a superb job. He also calls if anything needs replacing, except cables and brake pads BEFORE he changes something. Finally he insists on showing the old parts when I pick the bike up. Basically after using him, at a LBS and now on his own, for >5 years I trust him. My last service including shock, forks, full frame bearings, wheel and BB bearings is £270 but that’s on a £3K+ FS so it seems reasonable.

I also have a Bird Zero TR and I love it, it’s nearly as much fun to ride as my Whyte T-130 Works!

Mine was sent away and took 4 weeks but the timing was bad, old version not in stock, new version not yet in stock! My LBS said they are now back to about a 10 working day turnaround.

On my Revelations which are RCT3 I have the same thing i think it’s to allow the fork to move should you give it a really big hit whilst locked out

Major one is every light in the house needs to be on.

No prioritisation – seems to do anything and everything but the one thing that would allow us to leave the house on time

Complains that we are always late see ^

Reminds me of my failings at least twice a day, I already know hem and at 51 they are unlikely to change :-)

Falls asleep on the sofa and shouts if I suggest she maybe should go to bed

My LBS told me when I bought my Whyte that the bearings are warrantied for life but they’d only fit them free of charge in the first year or if they were defective. The LBS manager, who I know well, also said it’s a pain as the bearings cost pence to buy trade but take up to an hour to fit depending on the frame. As the manager has now opened his own one man shop I’m using him as he’ll do the bearings as part of a service rather than a one off job.

FS bikes can be expensive to maintain and if you buying a £3K plus bike it’s something to think about if you don’t do your own servicing. I tend to get my Whyte serviced once a year biut do most of the routine stuff myself.

I have a slightly older 2+ year old one and it’s been faultless, more than enough power on half for most of a 3 hour night ride with full for the descents. I also have a piggyback battery but have never had to use it!

All of those things will be impacted if we vote OUT so I’m not sure it makes much difference?

Personally I think that if we vote OUT we’re opening our country up to the Tories selling everything off and we’ll be in an even worse place!

UPDATE: When SRAM took the cassette off the freehub (destroying both in the process) they discover that the inner spacer was missing so poor assembly at the factory was the root cause and the cassette was overtightened even before I took ownership of the bike. SRAM replaced the cassette and freehub body under warranty and the only downside was it took 3 weeks to arrive.

SRAM warrantied mine because it had been fitted, from the factory, onto my ROAM 40 wheel without the inner spacer which meant it was possible to overtighten it and in fact the factory/shop did so to stop it wobbling!

I feel very lucky they did waranty it because I’ve heard this is a very common problem.

Depends on what’s wrong with you my symptoms meant I was happier having the sedative, the only real downside was that I was a bit hazy when they talked to me about the results.

My experience was of not being able to get any flow, lots of stoping and starting with a very low flow rate.

I’ve got an incredibly low psa reading but an enlarged prostrate which can’t be operated on without removing it due to the enlargement being in an odd position, complication is that @ 29 I had testicular cancer and now at 51 I suffer with bladder and bowel issues BUT I’m still here so overall it’s all good.

My bladder neck incision 2 years ago has made enough difference that I will be able to tolerate my symptoms until I’m 60 (I hope) and then cancer or not my prostrate will need to come out.

If it’s not cancer you can live with it IMHO.

@poisonspider My Roam 40 rear did that, the freehub needs a fairly firm push to seat it past the seal and then a fairly firm pull to remove it again, it’s probably 50% more effort than on my Hope back wheel, HTH.

Apologies for listing this but it surprised me how much I’m doing!

Monday night is solo 24+ off road ride
Tuesday night is solo 7-10K run around the village
Wednesday night is group 20+ off road ride, between 2 and 6 riders
Thursday night is solo 5K run around the village
Friday night is a night off
Saturday morning is Parkrun 5K ~200 people every week of which 4 or 5 are buddies from my village
Saturday night is a night off
Every 3rd Sunday morning is solo 25+ off road ride

So looking at that I guess mine time is split 4 out of 6 solo or 66% of the time! I enjoy solo rides but I also love the Wednesday night ride as it’s the same close riding buddies every week and we have a laugh & end up in the pub, I’m 51 but on Wednesday nights I revert back to a 10 year old!

A couple of years ago my riding buddy bunny hopped a badger who strayed into our path, I thought he’d just missed it but the huge chunk of fur in his rear mech confirmed he’d basically ridden over the badger’s back!

Broke a 456 frame by splitting a huge lump of flint one half of which jammed between the wheel and the chainstay. Ended up with the rear mech ripped off and the dropout literally straightened out horizontally!

Ended up selling the frame to someone as a project and the first ride out on the new frame I ripped the mech off and bent the (this time replaceable) hanger whilst riding down a route we affectionally call ‘rear mech alley’. As a group of 6 riders we lost 50% of our rear mechs in a little under a mile of trail :-)

Plenty to see if you’ve never been before so unless one of the special exhibitions is of particular interest then it’s going to be free :-)

I use a crossbar to attach my Whyte T-130 which has a dropper, I do however bungie it down well to stop any bounce but the times I’ve used it seemed very stable and the reverb has been fine AFASIK.

MBUK said that the Bird Zero TR alcked zip but to be honest a rider of my weight, fitness and ability is holding it back far more :-) My riding buddy whose super fit and very skilled loves his Bird Aeris and he rates it well above his 2013 Orange 5.

I have a 2015 Whyte T-130 Works, my riding buddy has a Bird Aeris, they are quite similar and if I’d not bought the Whyte then I’d have gone for the Bird.

I also have a Bird Zero TR and that’s very similar in general feel (excluding the obvious difference between a HT and a FS) as my Whyte.

If you have the money and the Bird fits I’d go for it, it’s a great bike IMHO.

51 and can hear 14khz but have had tinnitus for over 20 years :-)

I would and did in fact buy myself a new bike for my 50th. A Whyte T-130 Works which I’m loving. HTH

If you ever have to warranty the frame and the shop owner doesn’t honour it himself you’ll be out of luck as I’m guessing Cannondale will reject any claim as you’ve modified the frame.

I wonder if that means if you have post currently away for warranty, you get a new more reliable version in return?

My LBS can’t get seal kits as they are not in stock, Fisher have agreed to replace my Reverb but have no stock so I’ve no idea if I’ll get an ‘old’ new one or a new new one. No idea when either!

+1

Wattbike if work is paying.

I’ve also got Tech 3 E4s on my FS nd X2s on my HT with both being very good. I do get a bit of squealing in the wet but usually onlyf or the first 3 or 4 pulls on the brakes. I don’t sue the adjustment much but as I’m not racing the extra weight doesn’t worry me.

Overall excellent brakes, more modulation that Shimano – maybe less powerful like for like but most importantly for me they are very consistent even after 1 or 2 years hard use.

I’ve got a 32T oval on my FS and a 32T round on my HT and there’s a small but noticeable difference with the round being slightly ‘choppy’ when climbing although I notice it more on road on steep climbs than off road possibly due to the amount of mud around currently :-)

I’m planning on swapping the round to an oval on my HT so will be able to confirm my ‘findings’ once I’ve done the swap.

Running a mud hugger on my Pikes and mostly OK with DHF 2.3 but wasn’t great with a Shorty. I’d like to add one to my HT, Revelations with a DHF 2.3 so would like to know what works/recommendations for this combo?

Any idea of budget?

+1 Topeak although I don’t assume it’s 100% accurate. I set the pressure and if it feels OK, in my case I run 32 psi with a tubeless setup more for puncture relief than traction, then I at least know it’s consistent ride to ride or when I swap tyres.

When we did a day at BPW in Jan I ran my normal pressures for one run and then dropped to 28 psi. I was surprised that it felt different, subjectively it improved grip a little. If I’d relied on my normal does it feel right I would have added air! My setup isn’t that specialist just HRII and DHF so typical trail bike stuff.