Indeed – hence the speech marks. Many people treat it as a challenge – either to beat others or beat themselves – just want credit where it's due.

Spot on course, well signed and as usual, the cake was excellent (note to organisers – can I put a special order in for next year for carrot cake?). Thought my full suss was made for the rutted fields, and can't quite get the fully rigid/crosser/singlespeed thing (maybe I'm too old and need some comfort). Got round the 100k in 4.24, and finished really strongly, which I was really happy with, and only pushed on one climb (and for those who did the 100k, I reckon everyone will have pushed on that one). Thanks to the 2 blokes who kept sharing the work, for about 60 of the 100k.

The Briggs and Stratton in my Hayter didn't last long (without any oil in it). But I can recommend Hayter petrol mowers (on my 2nd now)

Houns, sounds like you might suffer from poor balance. Do you stand up and let the bike move around under you for the techy bits (or when in ruts etc)? Try it – I used to be one of those riders who crashed through everything, as I always tried to move with the bike (staying seated through corners etc). Now I try to move the bike and let me stay stable, and it does work.

Had a good crash today at Llandegla though by not listening to my own coaching…..

My T5 is registered as a MotorHome (having seats in the back and a bed/cooker etc). Thus it gets the "car" speed limits. You could do this, but not retrospectively. Now that many speed cameras are linked to the DVLA databases, they can dial up and see what your van is classed as when they take your photo. So, van drivers can be a bit screwed, especially as many do not know that there are different limits

It's not the moisture that is doing the damage, it is grit etc. A good rinse out and clean should (if the ceramic balls and race are undamaged) revive them somewhat. I am not sure if you oil ceramic bearings (I guess google to find out – there are all sorts of bearing data sheets out there)

They charge what people are prepared to pay. The average fork (Fox/Rockshox etc) will cost about £60 to make. The "fine tolerances" only apply to a few small parts – most of the parts in a fork will be standard manufacturing tolerance. However, then you have the manufacturer profit margin, shipping, import duty, plus then the importers profit margin, overheads, exchange rates, distribution costs, and then the retailers profit margin, overheads, and all of a sudden a part that costs £60 to make could cost £300 to get to the retailer.

Also, bear in mind that, at the following model year, no one sells the part at a loss, but they will all take a reduction in profit so that the shelves are cleared for the new model to sell (at a premium).

Most parts of a fork will not change substantially from year to year – just valving or paint finish or whatever to give it a refresh, and then every 3 years or so a major refresh or new fork. So, across the world, the average Fox fork probably sells 300,000 units over 3 years, so there is substantial revenue from them. The more high end forks (does the rebound damping bit really cost another £100?) they sell, the greater the profit.

Specialised probably went their own way to cut the cost of buying from Fox, as they could make the part for £60, but it might cost £100 to buy from Fox, and they can get custom parts made to their spec. Trouble is the quality issues can wipe out any cost save, and it doesn't seem to take much to make a fork not last long. When they get it right though, it could be a good business model.

But new forks are blimmin expensive though. I only buy 2nd hand now!

I use a toothbrush and hose on low pressure. Sometimes she does complain about funny tasting toothpaste, but so far I have not been caught out. I do have to be careful that the toothbrush is back in the bathroom before the SO goes to do her stuff.

Of course the above post about rolling resistance increase of tyres when cold is almost certainly bo!!0xxs, but it will probably get the pedants going

I read somewhere that the optimum ambient temperature for peak performance is 17degC, as that is when your muscles are all warm enough to function. I guess that means that the colder it gets, the harder it is to maintain performance. Plus with extra layers it is harder to move (running in leggigs is definitely slower than running in shorts (for me anyway).

I am surprised no one has mentioned the rolling resistance increase from the cold air in your tyres. Everyone knows that cold tyres roll slower than warm ones (think squash ball – it only works when it's warm – up to that point it is much slower).

Ours are 2 years apart (2 of them to the day). Eldest is now 20, middle 18, and youngest just 17 (eldest and middle both born on April 1st!!). Wouldn't have it any other way – they all get on with each other, and they go to gigs etc together, and get on with each others mates. Any further apart and they would be strangers to each other.

As for the younger years bit, it can be hard but it's worth it – my youngest didn't stop sleeping in our bed until he was 6, and he always slept with his feet near my head – a bit too near most of the time.

Mind you, a girl at school was in the same class as her sister – 11.5 months apart. With a parents head on, that feels a little close for comfort.

I am always confused by these threads. I just want to use t'internet. I know nothing about software applications. I have IE as installed on my PC – do I need to change something or is what I have perfectly adequate?

It says Welsh Borders – probably Kington / Knighton area (but I don't know that – I only think it). I fully intend to enter given the fitness and the agreement from the better half, but as normal, I'll wait until a week or two before to enter.

I hope they don't cancel, as I now have all the kit and need somewhere to use it.

I wish they would sort the website (and the forum). I hope the lack of maintenance on that is not reflective of the event……

On mine I had to take the circlip out of the bottom of the stanchion, then unscrew the blue rebound adjuster for about 5 minutes until it is fully disengaged. Then pull the damping rod and it all came apart. Assembly is a reversal.

Wouldn't have thought so, not unless the oil is below -20degC or so. More likely to be blocked jets or something. Do you have an old nozzle you can fit to try?

Thanks, I couldn't find it on the Pace website anywhere.

I have found 5cc in the top of the air chamber also helps to keep the forks smooth

No problems with rats, or other issues with a water source close to the house. Our well is in clay and about 12 feet from the back door – it gives us no grief whatsoever – why should it? Tend to find the people who put them there knew what they were doing.

I have long admired the Ultima, it is a classic in its own right, I built a Marlin Berlinetta between 1989 and 1993, and it cost about £10,000, and that was well finished, but still Cortina based with a cheap engine and running gear. It's still going though (with another owner). For an Ultima, you can't get away with a cheap job – you are talking £15k for the kit, and another £15k for the finishing, but at least you don't need to paint it as it is gel coloured in your choice. If you think you can finish it for less than £25-35k, talk to some existing owners – you may have to change your mind. Good luck with it if you do build one, but you are aware that you can't get a bike rack for it!

My Father in Law uses a holly bush tied to a piece of rope. He drops the rope down the chimney and them pulls the bush down. Then pulls it back up again, Costs him nothing.

I got a bloke in and it was £25 without the hassle of cleaning up afterwards.

American Pie – what a load of shi-ite
Queen – generally everything
Meatloaf – absolutely everything
Lady in Red – what a load of sickening durge
The theme from Titanic – makes me want to smash the radio and ru amoc with a large gun (if I had a large gun)

I think you'll find square taper BBs never wear out. It's only external BBs that do that. You have probably worn the rest of the bike out, but not the BB.

Used to work with an American called Dick Sander. Always bought a tear to my eye that one.
One of our suppliers has a Mike Hunt (and he likes to be called Mike). And they have a Japanese female employee caled Fukuoka.

And our email system at work uses first initial then surname. Brian Adcock was never funnier.

Mikertroid,
have a look at the Jaguar share price when they were a standalone company (1986 to 1992 or so). There was a significant increase in share price while the company was on the stock market. That doesn't usually happen with loss making companies. From your posts so far, there seems to be little substance other than "I have a reliable source who told me". I also have a reliable source who told me, the only question is whether my source is more reliable than yours. Come back with some facts.

Amyway, I can't see why you are getting hung up on whether Jaguar made a profit. It's the future that counts, not the past.

Tata did not have to buy Jaguar or Land Rover. They were free to walk away at any time if they did not like the deal. They did, however, recognise that the Product Development side of Jaguar and Land Rover was so intertwined that it would be difficult to split. Thay also recognised that both brands had fantastic products and a real future. We could do with far sighted companies like that in the UK.

Why is previous profitability relevant? Yes, Jaguar has made big losses in the past, and has also made profits (not for many years I admit, but it has made profits). Even under Ford there were good years. Land Rover is an iconic brand, and has traded (and profited) on this for many years. Even Land Rover has made losses in the past.
Neither company would have been bought by Ford or Tata if they did not have a future. Both Ford and Tata have looked at the projected performance of the companies they have bought before they part with any cash, and who wouldn't? Past performance is not always a good indicator of the future (just looks at some of the banks).
The fact is that both Jaguar and Land Rover are now producing cars that are better quality, more fuel efficient, more desirable, cleaner emitting than ever before, and this is what Tata are looking at. Remember that Tata have a long term vision (20 years).
Plus there are other benefits to Tata of having a fantastic research centre producing technology far beyond what they are capable of – this could be part of their long term vision (but who knows?).
This isn't blind optimism. You only have to look at what is being done within JLR to see that there is a future. Shutting plants is one way of guaranteeing that (after all, no other car manfacturer would even dream of having 3 manufactuing sites and 2 engineering sites for a total volume of 250,000 vehicles – it cannot be sustained.)

What Tata have really done is to force JLR to face up to the seriousness of their past mistakes (and previous owners mistakes). And they have made, and continue to make sure that the company honours its commitments (meeting budgets, sales targets, etc). Unfortunately when sales decline, budgets are reduced, and to protect the long term future, jobs are cut. So, for the 85% of people who remain at JLR, the future is more secure. I would rather 15% of people lose their jobs now, than 100% in a year or two. The unions have worked well with the company's management over the past year or so to make necessary cuts. I am firmly of the opinion that an engineering company has to be very efficient in the modern world in order to be able to withstand all the forces from round the world. There will always be cheaper labour than in the UK, there will always be cheaper land, cheaper materials, etc etc. We have to be streamlined. efficient etc etc to be able to withstand these forces. If a company does not have the income to fund their plants/employees/assets/whatevers, guess what. So, either increase income (difficult) or reduce costs. Unfortunately, people are an easy way of cutting costs (but in the good times, they are an easy way of increasing output/profits as well). Some of the Unions postulating upsets me, but I understand their motivations, although I do believe that there are times when Union actions are for short term gain at the expense of long term survival. I guess we'll see when discussions are over where peoples interests really lie.

Send them an invoice for £150 for "services rendered", ie. Waitress service and tea/coffee, plus the resultant washing up. Plus the door had to be opened and closed after the guy. Sounds fair to me. Didn't you tell them you were going to charge for this? Well **ck me, they didn't tell you either. And you might have to charge them to counter the stress of being told your fully functional boiler is now not working.

I think it is good news that the people who run the company have got the balls to take some serious measures to make the company profitable in the future. JLR make some fantastic products, both in production and in the pipeline, and it truly deserves to be successful (after many years of mismanagement by previous owners). The media will always try to make a sensational headline out of not much news – the closure of a plant is to take place over the next 10 years, so it is not as though there will be a flood of people losing their jobs. Their jobs will either be transferred to where production moves (which could only be 10 miles away), or be lost as people leave/retire etc. I am particularly passionate about the place, having worked their for 26 years. Do I think the company will survive? Yes, I will stake my pension on it!!

You could use polystyrene sheets, as used under concrete slabs in flooring. Not sure if they present a risk during fires though (fumes etc). They're cheap for 8×4 sheets

I have an old dynamo from the mid-late 70's and a rear light to match. It's 6V (or more if you go really fast). I found it the other week in a clearout and thought it too good to chuck. No front light though.

Or try retrobike.com

Going somewhere nice? Or is that the weeks shopping?

Tibia and Fibula 10 weeks ago at the MM – am back on the bike now for gentle pootles. Stupid putting foot down type accident. Still, bought a new bike whilst scouring ebay during my 9 weeks off work

Oh yes, I'd look good in a girdle me!! Proper sexy and everything.

I'm going the DIY surgery route. I reckon if I get really numbed to pain (ie. drunk), then can attach a vacuum cleaner to a straw that I insert through a hole in my tummy, then it will suck the fatty bits out. Beats doing months of crunches and rowing, although I might have to spend a short while in hospital getting it decontaminated and sewn back up. (Note to self – must make sure the vacuum is set to suck, not blow!)

Thanks all for the tips. I guess it will really be down to hard work.

Thanks Simon – will a hoover work?

Sounds like muscle toning is the way forward. May even turn my party seven into a 4 pack

Vote for Galaxy's here. Had about 6 of the older type (all diesel) (I get a new car every 6-9 months on my car scheme – which is great). All very reliable (absolutely no issues on any of them) and I guess their value is now dropping to what you have to spend. Get a diesel though as the petrols only do 20-30mpg. Diesels do 40ish. The new Galaxy is a much nicer car, drives like a car, a fits 5 bikes and adults fairly easily. More economical and faster than the old Galaxy. Never had another MPV though so can't compare to others.

Fantastic – wonder what it's like off road?

My 02 Stumpy FSR is still going strong – I race and do loads of Trailquests on it – it's my main bike. Not much of the original left (it's on its 3rd set of forks as they wear out). To be honest, it fits me great, is fast, light, and does everything I want it to – I have only ever felt like it was the wrong bike at places like CyB where it feels like I am too far over the bars for steep descents, but for 95% of the riding I do I am the limiting factor.
Just bought a 02 Stumpy Hardtail on ebay – absolutely mint and original!

Just so you know… he has a blackbelt in judo

Is that why he's wrapping parcels? Good paper folding skills?

You should ply line it, but between body and ply put as much sound insulation as you can. Use bitumen type sticky stuff to deaden each panel, then space blanket type insulation as cost effective insulation. Pay lots of attention to wheelarches etc and you'll notice a huge difference.

The Brickyard forum gives you all the T4 Forum does but without the £10 membership fee.

I am in a similar boat, with a plate in the ankle end of my tibia. A friend at work who has had multiple breaks (tibia, fibula, femur, arms, ribs etc etc) recommends getting the plate or some screws removed, as he has experience where the plated part of the bone is rigid, but the rest of the bone gives to absorb shock loads. So, when the bone with the plate/screw is shock loaded all the load is transmitted to the unbolted/unscrewed part, which he says can make it quite sore for some days afterwards.
I have heard of screws undoing themselves as well, I guess surgeons don't use loctite.

Some screw removal can be done in day surgery, so recovery may not be as lengthy as you suggest – I guess it depends where the screw is.

Good luck with it – let us know what you decide